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Craving color after a long, gray winter? Plant your bulbs this fall and let spring surprise you! From cheerful daffodils and crocuses to showy tulips, fragrant hyacinths, and striking alliums, fall-planted bulbs sleep through the cold and wake up just in time to dazzle. We’ll walk you through when and how to plant flower bulbs in fall, which ones grow best in your region, and how to keep the blooms coming all spring long.
Best Time to Plant Bulbs in Fall
Fall-planted bulbs need time to grow roots before the ground freezes. The best time to plant bulbs is when soil temperatures drop below 60°F (typically about 6 weeks before your first hard frost). This usually means:
Northern regions: Plant bulbs in September or October
When in doubt, aim to get your bulbs in the ground before Halloween!
Tulip tip: You can plant tulips later than most fall bulbs—sometimes even into winter—if you can still dig into the soil.
Special Notes for Southern Gardeners In the warmest parts of the South, spring-flowering bulbs may need a little extra prep. Most fall bulbs require a 12- to 16-week cold period, so you’ll need to pre-chill them before planting. Simply store bulbs in ventilated bags at the bottom of your refrigerator (40° to 50°F) for several weeks. Check with your supplier—some bulbs arrive pre-chilled, ready to plant.
Also note: Some bulbs, like tulips, may bloom only once in warm climates and need to be replanted each year. Still, they’re a beautiful sight worth the effort! Others—like daffodils—can perennialize even in the South and return year after year.
Best Fall Bulbs to Plant by Zone
Fall bulbs aren’t one-size-fits-all—different varieties flourish in different hardiness zones. To help you choose the perfect blooms for your spring garden, here’s a handy guide to some of the most popular and reliable spring-flowering bulbs, complete with their ideal growing conditions. Mix early, mid, and late-blooming bulbs to extend your spring flower show!
Below are some of the most popular and reliable spring-blooming bulbs.
1. Alliums (Ornamental Onions)
Deer-resistant bulbs with dramatic spherical flowers in late spring. Prefer loose, sandy soil and full sun. Great for cutting gardens and pollinators. [Allium guide →]
2. Crocuses
One of the earliest spring bloomers, crocuses grow 4–6 inches tall and prefer full sun or partial shade. Not recommended if deer are a problem. Plant 3 inches deep. [Crocus growing tips →]
3. Daffodils
Deer-resistant and easy to grow, daffodils come in many colors and thrive in well-drained, amended soil. Plant 6 inches deep and 6 inches apart. [Learn more about daffodils→]
4. Hyacinths
Fragrant clusters that bloom alongside daffodils and tulips. Best grown as annuals for consistent blooms. Plant in well-drained soil. [Hyacinth care →]
5. Irises
Though technically rhizomes, fall is the best time to plant irises. They need excellent drainage and sun to attract pollinators. Plant early in the fall for strong root establishment. [Iris planting tips →]
6. Snowdrops
Deer- and vole-resistant, snowdrops bloom late winter to early spring and prefer moist soil and partial shade. Plant 3 inches deep and spaced 3 inches apart.
7. Tulips
Known for vibrant colors, tulips need well-drained, fertile soil and often act as annuals in many areas due to critter damage. Plant 4–6 inches deep. [More on tulips →]
Now that you know which bulbs grow best in your region, the next step is choosing healthy, high-quality bulbs that will thrive and bloom year after year. Picking the right bulbs can make all the difference in your spring display.
Choosing Bulbs: What to Look For
Generally, larger bulbs tend to produce stronger plants and more abundant blooms. When selecting bulbs, look for ones that are fresh and firm, not brittle, rotted, or moldy Avoid bulbs that feel soft or shriveled. Bulbs with intact outer skins, called “tunics,” are better protected against pests and disease.
Once you receive your bulbs, plant them promptly or store them in a cool, dry place around 60° to 65°F. Avoid exposing bulbs to temperatures above 70°F, which can harm the flower buds inside.
If you have wildlife like squirrels, deer, or voles in your area, be aware that some bulbs—such as tulips and crocuses—are more susceptible to being eaten. Planting bulbs in wire cages or choosing pest-resistant varieties like daffodils can help protect your investment. See our article on rodent-proof bulbs.
For the best selection and quality, buy bulbs from trusted nurseries or local garden centers rather than big-box stores. Specialty online suppliers often offer a wider variety and expert guidance, especially if you want unusual colors or types.
It’s a good idea to order early—most nurseries begin shipping bulbs at the proper planting time, usually September through October. Early ordering helps ensure you get the varieties you want before they sell out.
Don’t forget to plant extra for cutting to bring some of that spring color indoors!
When to Order Bulbs for Fall Planting
Most garden stores start carrying fall bulbs by mid-September. You can also order special bulbs months in advance from online nurseries to ensure you get your preferred varieties. These nurseries typically hold shipments until the proper planting time in fall, and delivery usually takes no more than one to two weeks.
How to Plant Fall Bulbs
Planting bulbs is generally an easy task—unless you’ve ordered hundreds! Still, a few key tips will help you get it right:
Choose a sunny spot: Bulbs need at least partial sun in spring to bloom their best. They look especially charming beneath trees before the leaves come out, in drifts or large groupings, mixed with wildflowers, or in containers alongside spring annuals.
Ensure good drainage: Bulbs can rot in soggy soil. Before planting, work a few inches of compost or organic matter into the soil to improve nutrients and drainage—especially if you have heavy clay soil. In sandy soils, plant bulbs a little deeper; in clay soils, a bit shallower.
Plant bulbs point-side up: Always check your bulbs before planting and set them with the point facing upward and roots down.
Plant at the right depth: As a general rule, plant bulbs about three times as deep as their width. For exact depths, refer to the planting chart above.
Stagger bloom times: Consider each bulb’s bloom season—early, mid, or late spring—and plant a mix to enjoy continuous color throughout the spring months.
Positioning in beds: Place shorter bulbs toward the front of garden beds and borders for best visibility.
Plant generously: Expect some bulbs may not sprout or might be munched by critters. Plant bulbs in random patterns with varied spacing for a natural look. If you love dramatic displays like groves of daffodils or swaths of tulips, be prepared to plant large quantities.
Tools: While a special bulb-planting tool can help, planting bulbs by hand is simple. For large plantings, use a shovel to create wide holes for multiple bulbs at once.
Visual impact: Bulbs look stunning when planted en masse—in groves, near mailboxes, as colorful borders, or sweeping patches in garden beds.
Planting Depth vs. Flower Height
As a rule of thumb, plant bulbs about three times as deep as the bulb is tall. The deeper the bulb, the taller the flower tends to be—but always refer to specific guidelines for each type. Taller flowers like daffodils and tulips go deeper, while smaller bulbs like crocuses and snowdrops sit closer to the surface.
A quick guide to how deep to plant your fall bulbs—and how tall they’ll grow!
Caring for Bulbs After Planting
After planting your bulbs, give them the best chance to thrive with a few simple steps:
Fertilize, if needed: If your soil is poor, apply a granular fertilizer after planting. Choose a formula that’s low in nitrogen—something like a 9-6-6 mix is ideal. Top-dress the soil around the bulbs; never add fertilizer directly to the planting hole, as it may burn the bulbs.
Water deeply: Give your bulbs a thorough soak after planting. Water must reach the full planting depth to be effective—if you planted 6 inches deep, aim for water to penetrate that far. This settles the soil and encourages root growth.
Water again before the ground freezes: Bulbs begin forming roots in late fall and early winter. In northern areas, one more deep watering before freeze-up helps. In warmer climates, consider watering again in late December or early January if conditions are dry.
Mulch matters: Apply mulch after planting to help retain moisture, suppress weeds, and prevent bulbs from being heaved out of the ground by freeze-thaw cycles.
Spring watering: Once bulbs start growing in spring, water them once a week if there’s no measurable rain—especially while they’re flowering. Use a soaker hose to keep water off the blooms and reduce disease risk.
Fertilize rebloomers: For bulbs you hope will return next year, top-dress again with granular fertilizer when the shoots first appear. If you’re treating bulbs like tulips as annuals, skip this step.
Troubleshooting Common Bulb Problems
Even the most foolproof bulbs can run into a little trouble. Here’s how to head off the usual suspects before they ruin your spring show.
Bulbs Didn’t Bloom
If your bulbs put up leaves but no flowers, they may have been planted too shallowly, crowded, or in too much shade. Another culprit? Cutting the foliage too early the previous year. Let those leaves die back naturally—they’re feeding next year’s bloom!
Bulbs Gone MIA
Squirrels, voles, and chipmunks sometimes treat your bulb bed like a snack bar. If tulips and crocuses keep disappearing, switch to critter-resistant options like daffodils, alliums, or snowdrops. Or plant in a cage of chicken wire to keep hungry paws out.
Rot Happens
Bulbs hate soggy soil. If your bulbs turned to mush, odds are the soil didn’t drain well. Add compost, mound your beds, or plant on a slope to improve drainage. In clay-heavy areas, aim for slightly shallower planting than the chart suggests.
Frost Heave
Freeze-thaw cycles can push bulbs right out of the ground like toast from a toaster. Mulch to the rescue! A 2- to 3-inch layer helps regulate soil temps and keeps those bulbs cozy and in place.
Nothing Came Up
Sometimes bulbs are just duds—especially bargain-bin ones. Stick with fresh, firm bulbs from reputable sources, and don’t forget to check expiration dates if you’re pulling them out of storage.
Happy Bulb Planting!
Whether you’re tucking daffodils under the dogwood or dreaming of tulips by the mailbox, planting bulbs in fall is a little act of faith—and a big reward come spring. Give them good soil, a cozy bed, and a bit of patience, and they’ll surprise you when you need it most: just as winter fades.
Got a favorite bulb or a squirrel survival story? We’d love to hear it. Share your triumphs (and trials) in the comments below. Until then, may your bulbs sleep well and wake up blooming.
Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana. Read More from Catherine Boeckmann
Please remove Star of Bethlehem from your list of Fall Bulb Planting Chart. This plant is now considered an invasive weed. Once it gets into your lawn, it is virtually impossible to get rid of.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/bulbs/star-of-bethlehem/manage-star-of-bethlehem-weeds.htm
Hello . I received several Amaryllis from a friend that lives in Florida and I planted them in various areas in my gardens. I just keep them well covered in the cold months in Virginia. I have successfully planted my Christmas Amaryllises and they are now growing and blooming in the Spring along with the ones I was gifted with many years ago. So it is possible to grow in the ground. They have also multiple beautifully. I wish I was able to share pictures.
Hello!! Love Farmer's Almanac and since I was born in Peterborough, NH and was married in the white church in Dublin, NH... It has extra special meaning to me!! I am now living Brookshire, TX outside of Houston... Zone 9b. Yes, I bought some bulbs at the box store... Will do differently next year but since I have them is it okay to plan them now or should I put them in the fridge before planting? We are just starting to get some cooler weather but it is still very warm.
Wow, great to hear from you. The Old Farmer’s Almanac is located right next door to the Dublin church, as you probably know! The answer depends on the bulb. Daffodils do not have to be refrigerated. Bulbs should be planted at a depth twice the diameter of the bulb itself.
Plant crocus bulbs in November, 3 inches deep and 3 to 6 inches apart.
Tulips in your area should be chilled 8 to 10 week—a minimum of eight weeks chilling. This must be done before planting. You can wait to plant bulbs until mid- to late December. Bulbs should be planted six inches deep. They’ll bloom in latter part of March to the first part of April, depending on weather conditions. They must be dug each year and prepared for fall planting which includes a refrigeration period. We do not recommend carrying over tulips; best to start with new bulbs each year.
Hyancinth bulbs need 6 to 8 weeks of refrigeration. Plant in late Dec or early January, and plant the bulbs 4 to 6 inches deep.
I noticed someone asked about amarylis bulbs being planted in the garden. I had spent 11 years in Central Florida and had planted multiple amarylis bulbs throughout my gardens. Every year I had the most stunningly beautiful display!! I would also dig up a few bulbs and gift them at Christmas time to co-workers and friends. Many of the bulbs, which I'm convinced were hybrids gifted to me, reverted back to the red/orange with yellow interior stripe over time. Some did stay true to their initial color of deep red, white and pink but over time I did notice many had indeed reverted back. When I moved back to Michigan, I dug up several bulbs to bring with me. They are now in various stages of growth and I am looking forward to seeing how they flower this year.
We lived in Louisiana and my mom would dig up tulip bulbs each year, dry them and store them in the fridge until next planting time, and they would bloom nicely the next year. I now live in Mississippi and have ordered tulip bulbs to plant in November for my zone (8), but we have deer and squirrels. What is the process for wrapping in nylon netting? I haven't heard of that before. Thanks for any info.
Hi, Judy, Please understand that no attempt to fool or deter squirrels is fail safe. There are a couple of ways to work the nylon mesh. One is to lay it on top of the ground into which you have just planted your bulbs. Secure the mesh so it doesn’t blow away or can not be pushed off by critters. Another way is to wrap the bulb in the mesh when you plant it. Some suggest using lawn staples to hold it in place, but you also have to allow for the bulb’s stem (for lack of a better word) to penetrate the mesh. Keep in mind that squirrels are drawn to the freshly dug soil. They don’t know what’s been buried; they are merely curious. So if you find a nibble bulb on your property, it means that the squirrel ultimately was not interested in it. Ideally you want to bury the bulbs at the proper depth, and then cover the evidence. For that you can also heap on mulch. The depth of the bulb — say, at least 5 inches — plus say 2 to 3 inches of mulch may be deeper than the squirrel wants to bother with. Another idea: Bury the bulb, add a few inches of soil, then bury a decoy surprise: say, a few acorns relatively close to the soil surface. Good luck, and if any of these work really well for you, let us know—please!