If you want to see early spring flowers in your garden, pop those bulbs into the ground in fall! What flower bulbs do you plant in autumn? Think daffodils, crocuses, snowdrops, tulips, hyacinths, irises, and alliums. See our zone chart for your location and how to plant fall bulbs for continuous color!
What Are Fall Bulbs?
Fall bulbs don’t flower in the fall. They’re planted in the fall to then bloom gloriously in the springtime! This is in contrast to summer-flowering bulbs (such as dahlias, elephant ears, caladiums, gladiolus, cannas, and tropicals) that are planted in the spring.
Why do we plant spring-flowering bulbs in the fall? These spring beauties are what we call “dormant perennials.” They need the cool, moist autumn soil to awaken them from their dormancy so that they can begin growing roots in preparation for the spring show.
They’re foolproof to plant—and feed early pollinators such as those drowsy queen bumblebees.
Another thing to know about fall bulbs is that they’re not all true “bulbs.” Irises, for example, grow from rhizomes, while crocuses sprout from corms. Daffodils and tulips, on the other hand, are true bulbs. Nevertheless, all of these plants are commonly known as “fall bulbs,” so we refer to them as such in this article!
When to Plant Bulbs in the Fall
The best time to plant fall bulbs is when soils are below 60°F in the late fall or about 6 weeks before a hard frost is expected.Consult our Frost Dates Calculator for typical fall frost dates in your area.
This is usually during September and October in the North. (Halloween is a good deadline to set.) In the South, bulbs are generally planted a little later—in October and November. (Tulips are one exception—you can plant tulips as late as in winter if you can get them into the soil.)
In the warmest parts of the South, you may need to precool some bulbs. Most fall bulbs require a 12- to 16-week cold period, so place them in ventilated packages at the bottom of your refrigerator at 40° to 50°F before planting. Check with your bulb supplier to determine whether the bulbs that you purchased have been precooled, or if you will need to give them a cold treatment.
Also, in warmer climates, note that some bulbs will bloom only once before they’re done. For example, you will have to plant tulip bulbs each year. Still, they are a beautiful sight to behold and well worth the effort! Other fall bulbs, such as daffodils, will act as perennials and come up year after year.
Fall Bulbs to Plant by Zone
See our chart below for a summary of each bulb’s preferences—in terms of hardiness zone, soil type, soil depth and spacing, and other details. Below this chart, we’ll add some additional information to each bulb choice. Find which hardiness zone you live in.
Generally speaking, higher-quality bulbs are bigger (for their type) and will flower more profusely. Second-rate bulbs don’t germinate as often, have smaller blooms, and often don’t return year after year.
Good bulbs should be fresh and firm, not brittle, rotted, or moldy. Also, choose bulbs with intact husks to better fight any disease. When you receive bulbs, plant them immediately or store them in a cool, dark, dry place at around 60° to 65°F. Temperatures above 70°F may damage the flower buds.
Do you have voles, squirrels, or deer? Well, cross the beautiful tulip and delicate crocus off your list. Or, consider planting your bulbs in a “cage” of chicken wire. Also, see our article on rodent-proof bulbs.
Where to Buy Bulbs for Fall Planting
We suggest that you buy bulbs from reputable nurseries or local garden centers rather than a generic big box store. It’s also easy to order online; there are many wonderful high-quality online nurseries, including Dutch suppliers. Another advantage to ordering from a bulb specialist is the ability to pick unusual varieties or colors; there are many more choices.
Don’t forget to plant extra for cutting to bring some of that spring color indoors!
When to Order Bulbs for Fall Planting
Most garden stores start carrying fall bulbs by mid-September. Special bulbs can also be ordered months before planting time from online nurseries; this ensures that you get the varieties you want. The nurseries won’t ship the bulbs to you until the appropriate time for planting in the fall; usually, they take no more than a week or two to ship.
Best Flower Bulbs to Plant in Fall
Below is a list of the most popular and reliable spring-blooming bulbs.
We prefer daffodils over any other bulbs because squirrels, deer, and chipmunks leave them alone! Daffodils come in many colors—not just yellow (pink, orange, white, multicolor)—and their flowers range from trumpets to flat rings to little roselike cups. They grow best in well-draining soil that has been amended with organic matter or compost. They should be planted at least 6 inches deep and 6 inches apart. Daffodils look great in large drifts in ground cover beds, in meadows, and when planted under hostas.
“Jonquil” is the term usually used for a specific type of daffodil known as Narcissus jonquilla. These have tiny blooms and naturalize. They’re one of the first flowers to bloom—and look especially lovely when planted together in a grove or field together.
One of the earliest spring flowers, crocuses are always met with delight when they appear. These low-to-the-ground flowers come in purple, white, yellow, and striped variations, growing about 4 to 6 inches high. Crocuses prefer well-draining soil and will grow in partial shade or full sun. They are perfect for garden borders and even look great when planted in a lawn. They’ll finish their bloom before it’s time to start mowing!
3. Snowdrops
*Deer-resistant!
Snowdrops (Galanthus) are dainty white bells that are just delightful in the late winter and early spring. Deer, voles, and critters avoid these early blooms, so choose snowdrops instead of crocuses if you have critter problems. They are one of our favorite white flowers!
When snowdrops are blooming en masse, you’ll feel as if you’ve stepped into a fairy tale. We love them when planted in drifts in ground cover beds.
Snowdrops are adaptable, growing well in full or partial shade. They do prefer moist soil, unlike many bulbs, so add leaf mold or compost at planting for plentiful blooms. Plant 3 inches deep and 3 inches apart.
One of the best-known spring bulbs, tulips come in a rainbow of colors and variations. They prefer well-draining or sandy soil that is rich in fertilizer. Tulips look beautiful when planted en masse and bloom after daffodils. They look great paired with grape hyacinth.
A word of caution: Today, tulips are often one-season wonders. Due to hybridization and the fact that squirrels love these bulbs, we tend to treat them as annuals. Expect no more than three-quarters of the bulbs to return in their second year and even fewer in their third. You’ll just need to plant more tulip bulbs every year (it’s not hard) or protect the bulbs with a nylon mesh.
Some readers claim that planting tulips with daffodil bulbs helps, since critters find daffodil bulbs “stinky.” Let us know if this works for you.
These spring beauties bloom at around the same time as daffodils and tulips and have a wonderful fragrance! With small blue clusters of tiny, bell-shaped blooms, hyacinths also come in pale pinks, baby blues, yellows, and white. An annual application of compost should provide adequate nutrients. Flower size may decline in subsequent years, so some gardeners treat hyacinths as annuals and plant fresh bulbs each fall.
Although not technically bulbs (irises grow from underground structures called rhizomes), irises do best when planted in the fall. These tall beauties are hardy and reliable, attract butterflies and hummingbirds, and make lovely cut flowers.
Irises need at least half a day of sun and excellent drainage. Planting on a slope or in raised beds helps to ensure good drainage. If your soil is heavy, coarse sand or humus may be added to improve drainage.
It’s imperative that the roots of newly planted irises be well established before the growing season ends, so we would plant irises at the earlier end of the suggested window (September in the North and October in the South).
Looking for deer- and rodent-resistant bulbs? Try growing alliums—yes, members of the onion family!
These purple pom-pom flowers make a dramatic statement in late spring and early summer, especially when planted en masse. They’re generally a few feet tall and topped with large, orb-shaped flowers, but there are smaller varieties of alliums, too. The large bulbs do best in loose soil on the sandy side.
Ornamental alliums are great for cutting, and bees adore them, too!
How to Plant Bulbs in the Fall
Planting bulbs is generally an easy task (unless you’ve ordered hundreds!), but there are some things that you want to get right. Here are tips to keep in mind:
Bulbs need at least partial sun throughout the spring. They look beautiful growing beneath trees (before the trees leaf out), when planted en masse or in drifts, amidst wildflowers, and mixed with spring annuals in containers.
Bulbs need a spot with good drainage, or they may rot. Before planting, work a few inches of compost or organic matter into the soil for nutrients and drainage, especially if you have heavy clay soils. If your soil is sandy, plant bulbs slightly deeper; in clay soils, slightly shallower.
Of course, the first tip to remember is to plant bulbs with the point facing up! Examine bulbs carefully before placing them in the planting hole, being sure to set them with the roots facing down.
The general rule is to plant bulbs at a depth of three times the width of the bulb, but refer to our chart above for specific planting depths.
Consider the bloom time for each bulb (early spring, mid-spring, late spring) and plant bulbs with different bloom times so that you have flowers throughout spring!
Place shorter bulbs in the front of beds and borders.
Plant bulbs generously in case some do not sprout (or are devoured by hungry squirrels). Plant them in random order and with varied spacing for a more natural appearance. Or, if you love groves of daffodils and blanketed landscapes of tulips, be prepared to buy and plant a large quantity of bulbs together!
You can use a special bulb-planting hand tool to assist you, although it’s actually fairly simple to plant a bulb without one. If you are planting en masse by the dozens, use a shovel and make a wide hole for planting many bulbs at once.
Bulbs look great when planted en masse—in a grove, near the mailbox, as swaths of colors in garden beds, and as colorful borders.
Caring for Bulbs
If you have poor soil, sprinkle in a granular fertilizer after planting. It should be fairly low in nitrogen, such as a 9-6-6 formulation. Top-dress around the bulbs; do not add to the planting hole, which can burn the bulb.
Water bulbs deeply after planting—and remember, if your bulb was planted 6 inches deep in the soil, that water needs to soak into a 6-inch depth to benefit the bulb. This will help to settle the soil in the planting bed plus provide needed moisture for the bulb to start rooting.
Water again before the ground freezes—the wintertime is when they are developing roots. Don’t overwater, which can lead to bulb rot. Gardeners in southern locations can water again in late December or early January if it’s been an unusually dry winter.
Apply mulch to the planting area to keep the weeds down, retain moisture, and reduce or eliminate heaving from winter thawing and freezing.
Note: You will not need to start watering again until the flower buds first appear on the plant in the spring. Once bulbs start growing in the spring, water once a week (if you haven’t had any measurable rain)—this is especially important while they’re flowering. Water with a soaker hose to keep water off the blooms.
For bulbs that you want to rebloom the following year, top-dress with some extra granular fertilizer when shoots first start to appear. For bulbs that you’re treating as annuals, fertilizer is unnecessary.
Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana. Read More from Catherine Boeckmann
Please remove Star of Bethlehem from your list of Fall Bulb Planting Chart. This plant is now considered an invasive weed. Once it gets into your lawn, it is virtually impossible to get rid of.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/bulbs/star-of-bethlehem/manage-star-of-bethlehem-weeds.htm
Hello . I received several Amaryllis from a friend that lives in Florida and I planted them in various areas in my gardens. I just keep them well covered in the cold months in Virginia. I have successfully planted my Christmas Amaryllises and they are now growing and blooming in the Spring along with the ones I was gifted with many years ago. So it is possible to grow in the ground. They have also multiple beautifully. I wish I was able to share pictures.
Hello!! Love Farmer's Almanac and since I was born in Peterborough, NH and was married in the white church in Dublin, NH... It has extra special meaning to me!! I am now living Brookshire, TX outside of Houston... Zone 9b. Yes, I bought some bulbs at the box store... Will do differently next year but since I have them is it okay to plan them now or should I put them in the fridge before planting? We are just starting to get some cooler weather but it is still very warm.
Wow, great to hear from you. The Old Farmer’s Almanac is located right next door to the Dublin church, as you probably know! The answer depends on the bulb. Daffodils do not have to be refrigerated. Bulbs should be planted at a depth twice the diameter of the bulb itself.
Plant crocus bulbs in November, 3 inches deep and 3 to 6 inches apart.
Tulips in your area should be chilled 8 to 10 week—a minimum of eight weeks chilling. This must be done before planting. You can wait to plant bulbs until mid- to late December. Bulbs should be planted six inches deep. They’ll bloom in latter part of March to the first part of April, depending on weather conditions. They must be dug each year and prepared for fall planting which includes a refrigeration period. We do not recommend carrying over tulips; best to start with new bulbs each year.
Hyancinth bulbs need 6 to 8 weeks of refrigeration. Plant in late Dec or early January, and plant the bulbs 4 to 6 inches deep.
I noticed someone asked about amarylis bulbs being planted in the garden. I had spent 11 years in Central Florida and had planted multiple amarylis bulbs throughout my gardens. Every year I had the most stunningly beautiful display!! I would also dig up a few bulbs and gift them at Christmas time to co-workers and friends. Many of the bulbs, which I'm convinced were hybrids gifted to me, reverted back to the red/orange with yellow interior stripe over time. Some did stay true to their initial color of deep red, white and pink but over time I did notice many had indeed reverted back. When I moved back to Michigan, I dug up several bulbs to bring with me. They are now in various stages of growth and I am looking forward to seeing how they flower this year.
We lived in Louisiana and my mom would dig up tulip bulbs each year, dry them and store them in the fridge until next planting time, and they would bloom nicely the next year. I now live in Mississippi and have ordered tulip bulbs to plant in November for my zone (8), but we have deer and squirrels. What is the process for wrapping in nylon netting? I haven't heard of that before. Thanks for any info.
Hi, Judy, Please understand that no attempt to fool or deter squirrels is fail safe. There are a couple of ways to work the nylon mesh. One is to lay it on top of the ground into which you have just planted your bulbs. Secure the mesh so it doesn’t blow away or can not be pushed off by critters. Another way is to wrap the bulb in the mesh when you plant it. Some suggest using lawn staples to hold it in place, but you also have to allow for the bulb’s stem (for lack of a better word) to penetrate the mesh. Keep in mind that squirrels are drawn to the freshly dug soil. They don’t know what’s been buried; they are merely curious. So if you find a nibble bulb on your property, it means that the squirrel ultimately was not interested in it. Ideally you want to bury the bulbs at the proper depth, and then cover the evidence. For that you can also heap on mulch. The depth of the bulb — say, at least 5 inches — plus say 2 to 3 inches of mulch may be deeper than the squirrel wants to bother with. Another idea: Bury the bulb, add a few inches of soil, then bury a decoy surprise: say, a few acorns relatively close to the soil surface. Good luck, and if any of these work really well for you, let us know—please!