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How to Grow Green Beans: The Complete Guide

Photo Credit
Brytta/Getty Images
Botanical Name
Phaseolus vulgaris
Plant Type
Vegetable
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Soil pH
Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Bloom Time
Summer
Flower Color
White
Yellow

Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Green Beans

Catherine Boeckmann
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Growing green beans is so easy that they are often the first vegetable children learn how to grow! All green beans are incredibly productive, even in containers. Here’s how to plant, grow, and harvest green beans, plus the upsides and downsides of bush versus pole varieties.

About Green Beans

All green beans (also called “string beans” or “snap beans”) are tender annuals. Though most green beans are indeed green, they also come in purple, red, yellow, and streaked varieties.

What’s the Difference Between Bush Beans and Pole Beans?

The main difference between the many types of green beans is whether their growing style is classified as “bush” or “pole.”

  • Bush beans grow compactly (reaching about 2 feet tall) and do not require extra support from a structure like a trellis.
  • Pole beans, aka climbing beans, grow as climbing vines that may reach 10 to 15 feet tall and require a trellis or staking. Watch this video to learn how to support beans properly.

There are pros and cons to both types, of course:

  • Bush beans generally require less maintenance due to their size, but pole beans typically yield more beans for longer and are mostly disease-resistant.
  • Bush beans produce in veggies about 50 to 55 days; pole beans will take 55 to 65 days.
  • Bush beans often come in all at once, so stagger your plantings every 2 weeks to get a continuous harvest. Pole beans need their vines to grow and will produce for a month or two if you keep harvesting.

Finally, the Perfect Garden Seeds—From the trusted Old Farmer’s Almanac!

Non-GMO, open-pollinated, high germination, sourced from American farms.

Pepper Seeds
Green Bean Seeds
Carrot Seeds
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Planting

Beans grow best in well-draining soil with normal fertility and an acidic to neutral pH (6.0–7.0). They don’t typically need supplemental fertilizer because they fix their own nitrogen in the soil. However, particularly poor soil should still be amended with aged manure or compost in the fall prior to planting (or about a week before planting in the spring). 

Beans don’t like having their roots disturbed, so set up any supports for pole beans prior to planting. 

When to Plant Beans

  • Beans grow best when direct-seeded outdoors. Sow any time after the last spring frost date, when the soil has warmed to at least 55°F (12°C). Don’t plant too early, as cold, moist soil will delay germination and could cause the seeds to rot.
    • Tip: To get a head start on planting, place black plastic or landscaping fabric over your garden beds to warm the soil prior to sowing seeds.
  • Do not start green bean seeds indoors. Due to their fragile roots, they may not survive transplanting. Plus, they’re such fast growers that there’s no real advantage to starting them early indoors.

Spacing for beans

How to Plant Beans

  • Sow bush beans 1 inch deep and 2 inches apart in rows 18 inches apart.
  • Sow pole beans 1 inch deep, placing them around supports.
    • Tip: Plant pole and bush beans a little deeper in sandy soils, but not too deep. Seedlings cannot push through soil that is too deep, heavy, dense, packed, and/or mulched; they will break their “necks” in trying to emerge.
  • For pole beans, set up trellises, stakes, or other supports prior to planting so that the plants’ fragile roots are not disturbed.
    • One option is to create a teepee: Tie three or four (or more) 7-foot-long bamboo poles or long, straight branches together at the top and splay the legs in a circle. Then, plant three or four seeds around each pole. As vines appear, train them to wind up the poles. For more stability, wrap string/wire around the poles about halfway up, encircling the tepee; this gives the vines something to grab.
    • Another easy support for them is a “cattle panel”—a portable section of wire fence—16 feet long and 5 feet tall. The beans will climb with ease, and you won’t have to get into contorted positions to pick them.
  • For a continued harvest that lasts all summer, sow seeds every 2 weeks. If you’re going to be away and unable to harvest, skip a planting. Beans do not wait for anyone!
  • Practice crop rotation (planting crops in different areas each year) to avoid the buildup of pests and diseases in one spot.

How to Grow Beans From Planting to Harvest

Growing

  • Mulch soil around bean plants to retain moisture; make sure that it is well-draining. Beans have shallow roots, so mulch keeps them cool.
  • Water regularly, about 2 inches per square foot per week. If you do not keep beans well watered, they will stop flowering. Water on sunny days so that foliage will not remain soaked, which could encourage disease.
  • If necessary, begin fertilizing after heavy bloom and the set of pods. Avoid using high-nitrogen fertilizer, or you will get lush foliage and few beans. A side dressing of compost or aged manure halfway through the growing season is a good alternative to liquid fertilizer.
  • Weed diligently but carefully to avoid disturbing the beans’ roots.
  • Pinch off the tops of pole bean vines when they reach the top of the support. This will force them to put energy into producing more pods instead.
  • In high heat, use row covers over young plants; hot weather can cause blossoms to drop from plants, reducing the harvest.
Green bean plants trained up stakes
Green bean plants trained up stakes. Photo by fotolinchen/Getty Images.

 

Growing Green Beans in Containers

You can also grow green beans in containers! An 8-inch-deep, 8-inch-wide container will hold one bush plant, while a 5-gallon pot will hold up to three bush or pole plants. For pole beans, plan to provide support in or immediately outside of the container. Fill the container with potting mix and rich compost. 

Beans grow best when direct-seeded (not transplanted) into the soil, whether it’s in a container or the ground. After all danger of frost has passed, sow into warm (55°F or higher), moist soil. Put two beans into each hole between 1 and 1-1/2 inches deep. Eliminate the weaker one after germination by cutting the stem. (Do not allow two plants to coexist in one hole; neither will thrive.)

To care for your container of green beans, provide 6 to 8 hours of sun per day. Whenever the soil is dry, water to a depth of 1 to 2 inches. Fertilize with a low-nitrogen formula (5-10-10) diluted to half-strength to avoid excess foliage growth. Apply at planting time and when plants begin to flower.

Types

When it comes to green beans, the options are endless. Here are several types and varieties to consider:

  • Chinese (aka Asian) long beans (aka yardlong or asparagus beans): slender, 1- to 2-foot pods. Try ‘Orient Wonder’, ‘Red Noodle’, or ‘Yardlong’. All pole.
  • French green beans (aka filet or haricots verts): thin, tender, 3- to 5-inch pods. Try ‘Calima’, ‘Masai’, or ‘Maxibel’; in a container, plant ‘Mascotte’. All bush.
  • Italian/Romano: wide, flat 6- to 8-inch pods even in the hottest summers. Try ‘Early Bush Italian’, extra-large-pod ‘Jumbo’, or ‘Roma II’. All bush.
  • Purple beans: 5- to 6-inch pods are deep purple when raw and turn green when cooked. Try ‘Amethyst’, ‘Royal Burgundy’, or ‘Velour’. All bush.
  • Snap beans (aka string or stringless): slender, 5- to 7-inch pods. Try ‘Blue Lake 274’ (bush), heirloom ‘Kentucky Wonder’ (bush or pole), or ‘Provider’ (bush).
  • Yellow wax beans: 5- to 7-inch pods have a milder flavor than green varieties. Try stringless ‘Cherokee’ (bush), classic ‘Golden Wax’ (bush), or ‘Monte Gusto’ (pole).

If you are planting your green beans in containers, we suggest bush or pole beans. Many compact varieties are available, and many standard beans can be grown in containers as well. Here are some of our favorite bean varieties for containers.

  • Phaseolus lunatus ‘White Dixie Butterpea’: 16 to 24 inches tall; three to four small lima beans per pod; excellent for hot weather climates.
  • P. vulgaris ‘Derby’: tender, round, 7-inch-long pods form on 18-inch plants; resistant to bean common mosaic virus.
  • P. vulgaris ‘Mascotte’: prolific producer; 5- to 6-inch fruit on 16- to 18-inch-tall plants; resistant to anthracnose, bean common mosaic virus, and halo blight; variety name is French for “mascot” and symbolizes good luck.
  • P. vulgaris ‘Topcrop’: vigorous heirloom that sets heavy crop of pods 6 to 7 inches long on 15- to 18-inch-tall bushes; resistant to bean common mosaic virus.
  • P. coccineus ‘Hestia’: dwarf runner bean; 12- to 14-inch-tall plants produce 8-inch-long pods; if desired, leave beans to dry on plant and harvest as dried beans for chili, soups, and stews
  • P. vulgaris ‘Rattlesnake’: heirloom; vines up to 10 feet long produce 8- to 10-inch-long green pods with purple speckles; drought-resistant; heat-tolerant

Read more about some of our favorite varieties of green beans.

Harvesting

  • Harvest beans in the morning when their sugar level is highest.
  • Pick green beans every day; the more you pick, the more beans grow.
  • Green beans are picked young and tender before the seeds inside have fully developed.
  • Look for firm, sizable pods that are firm and can be snapped—generally as thick as a pencil.
  • Snap or cut the beans off the plant, being careful not to tear the plant. Fresh beans should snap easily when broken.
  • Once you see the seeds inside bulging, green beans are past their peak and will have a tough texture.

How to Store Green Beans

Wit and Wisdom

  • Beans are commonly used in everyday expressions to indicate something of little value. Something that “isn’t worth a hill of beans” is not worth much. Meanwhile, a “bean counter” is a person involved in corporate or government financial decisions and especially one reluctant to spend money.
  • According to folklore, in order to get rid of a wart, rub it with a bean and cast the bean over your shoulder without looking back.
  • “String” beans have a fibrous, sometimes tough, thread running the length of their pod that for centuries had to be removed by hand. In the late 1800s, breeders became successful in eliminating the string in most varieties; today, only heirloom beans still have a string.
  • “Green” beans, “snap” beans, and “string” beans are all the same.
  • Not all green beans are, in fact, green. Their colors can range from purple to red to yellow to streaked variations thereof.

Pests/Diseases

Green Bean Pests and Diseases
Pest/DiseaseTypeSymptomsControl/Prevention
AnthracnoseFungusYellow/brown/purple/black spots on leaves; sunken, dark spots on stems and pods; spots may develop a salmon-pink, gelatinous mass; eventually, rotDestroy infected plants; choose resistant varieties; provide good drainage; avoid overhead watering; apply compost; use mulch; rotate crops
AphidsInsectMisshapen/yellow leaves; distorted flowers/pods; sticky “honeydew” (excrement); sooty, black moldGrow companion plants; knock off with water spray; apply insecticidal soap; put banana or orange peels around plants; wipe leaves with a 1 to 2 percent solution of dish soap (no additives) and water every 2 to 3 days for 2 weeks; add native plants to invite beneficial insects
Cucumber beetlesInsectHoles in leaves/flowers; rasped pods; plants stunted/die; may transmit bacterial wiltHandpick; mulch heavily; use row covers; destroy plants infected with bacterial wilt
CutwormsInsectWilting; severed stems of seedlings and transplants just above or below soil line; whole seedlings disappearHandpick; in spring before planting, cultivate soil to reduce larvae; wrap a 4-inch-wide collar made from cardboard or newspaper around each stem, sinking 2 inches into soil; weed; use row covers; destroy crop residue
Japanese beetlesInsectLeaves skeletonized (only veins remain); stems/flowers/pods chewed; grubs feed on rootsHandpick; use row covers
LeafhoppersInsectWhite shed skins on leaf undersides (from nymph molting); stippling (many tiny spots) on leaves; “hopperburn” (leaves yellow/brown, curled, or stunted); reduced yieldKnock nymphs off leaf undersides with strong spray of water; use row covers; monitor adults with yellow sticky traps; weed; destroy crop residue
Mexican bean beetlesInsectLacey, skeletonized foliage; dark holes on podsHandpick; purchase and release beneficial wasp Pediobius foveolatus when larvae observed; destroy severely infested plants; use row covers
Mosaic virus (bean)VirusLeaves show green mottling (mosaic pattern) and may be distorted, blistered, curled downward; plants stuntedDestroy infected plants; choose resistant varieties and certified virus-free seed; use row covers; disinfect tools; weed; control aphids
Powdery mildewFungusWhite spots on upper leaf surfaces expand to flour-like coating over entire leaves; foliage may yellow/die; distortion/stunting of leaves/flowersDestroy infected leaves or plants; choose resistant varieties; plant in full sun, if possible; ensure good air circulation; spray plants with 1 teaspoon baking soda dissolved in 1 quart water; destroy crop residue
Root-knot nematodesNematodeTypically, roots “knotty” or galled; plants stunted/yellow/wiltedDestroy crop residue, including roots; choose resistant varieties; solarize soil; add aged manure/compost; disinfect tools; till in autumn; rotate crops
Slugs/snailsMolluskIrregular holes in leaves/flowers; gouged pods; slimy secretion on plants/soil; seedlings “disappear”Handpick; avoid thick bark mulch; use copper plant collars; avoid overhead watering; lay boards on soil in evening, and in morning dispose of “hiding” pests in hot, soapy water; drown in deep container filled with 1/2 inch of beer, or sugar water and yeast, and sunk so that top edge is slightly above ground; apply 1-inch-wide strip of food-grade diatomaceous earth as barrier
StinkbugsInsectYellow/white blotches on leaves; scarred, dimpled, or distorted pods; shriveled seeds; eggs, often keg-shape, in clusters on leaf undersidesDestroy crop residue; handpick (bugs emit odor, wear gloves); destroy eggs; spray nymphs with insecticidal soap; use row covers; weed; till soil in fall
White moldFungusPale gray, “water-soaked” areas on stems, leaves, and other plant parts that enlarge and develop white, cottony growth, later with black particles; bleached areas; crowns/pods rot; plants wilt/collapseDestroy infected plants; ensure good air circulation; water in morning; weed; destroy crop residue; rotating crops on 5-year or longer cycle may help
WhitefliesInsectSticky “honeydew” (excrement); sooty, black mold; yellow/silver areas on leaves; wilted/stunted plants; distortion; adults fly if disturbed; some species transmit virusesRemove infested leaves/plants; use handheld vacuum to remove pests; spray water on leaf undersides in morning/evening to knock off pests; monitor adults with yellow sticky traps; spray with insecticidal soap; invite beneficial insects and hummingbirds with native plants; weed; use reflective mulch
WirewormsInsectSeeds hollowed; seedlings severed; stunting/wilting; roots eatenTrap by digging 2- to 4-inch-deep holes every 3 to 10 feet, fill with mix of germinating beans/corn/peas or potato sections as bait, cover with soil or a board, in 1 week uncover and kill collected wireworms; sow seeds in warm soil for quick germination; provide good drainage; remove plant debris; rotate crops

Recipes

Homemade Green Bean Casserole
Green Bean Salad
Dilled Green Beans
Green Bean and Basil Soup
Asian-Style Green Beans
Vegetables
About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana. Read More from Catherine Boeckmann

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Comments

Holly (not verified)

7 years 10 months ago

I harvested all the greens on my plants. Should I tear the plants up or will they produce more?

Thanks

Dan (not verified)

7 years 10 months ago

I am planting Blue Lake green beans and was wondering if I could put a a row of yellow wax beans on the end or will I end up with blue beans?

Lisa (not verified)

7 years 11 months ago

I live north of Atlanta in an apartment with a very sunny room in which I am making my first attempt to grow beans, peas and zucchini.
I closed the air vent in that room.
I must have over watered and these little bugs started flying and round the soil and round plants.
Possibly fungus gnats?
I stopped watering but they did some damage.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for your thoughts.

If you believe that the flies are fungus gnats, that indicates moisture. Sometimes they pop up after overwatering and/or poor drainage. To control, let the soil dry out down to 1 or 2 inches, and if your plants can stand it, do that between each watering. Yellow sticky traps will lure the adults, helping to prevent the females from laying more eggs. The adults do not damage the plants, but the larvae can. If your room is humid with no ventilation, then you might want to open the vent to allow some air circulation (which helps to prevent diseases, too), as long as the vent is not allowing very cold or hot air to come in. Hope this helps!

diana hamid (not verified)

7 years 11 months ago

very educational very nice easy to follow loved it. I needed to learn how to build it better than I did last yeah.
thank you

barb (not verified)

8 years ago

Hi! How many beans per plant do you suppose I might average for pole beans (a mix of purple, yellow, and roma II)? Trying to figure out how many to plant for 5 finicky little kids! :)

The yield for pole beans will vary depending on several factors, including variety and growing conditions. Pole beans yield more than bush beans over the long term. In general, a rule of thumb is to plant 10 to 20 plants per person. However, if you think that your kids will get bored with beans, you can lessen that amount. Some gardeners plant about 3 to 5 plants per person. Keeping up with picking mature pods will lengthen harvest time.

Steve Atwood (not verified)

8 years 4 months ago

Last season I had wonderful plants, but very few beans until later in the season. We are in the high desert, with temperatures reaching 115 degrees. Are beans like tomatoes in that they will not bear fruit in higher temperatures??

Hi, Steve, you’ve got it exactly right. If it gets too hot, plants can not/do not produce. Maybe you can start your plants sooner (or later?) so that they peak before the temps do…? Experiment a bit. Home growing is not an exact science anyway.

All the best