How to Grow Mint: Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Tips

Peppermint and spearmint are the most commonly available, and one source suggests that spearmint is the one most often found in grocery stores. One way to check: peppermint is 40 percent menthol, while spearmint is less than 1 percent menthol. This means that peppermint will have a more intense flavor and possibly an aftertaste, while spearmint will be milder tasting.

If you are growing mint in a container, it will do better outdoors in summer. See above for more specific info.

Sow the seeds just 1/8 inch deep, barely covering with fine soil, and keep moist. Seeds will germinate in 10 to 20 days. Mints are slow to develop during the first year, but be ready to fight them back the second year. If you're worried about their growth, plant in their own bed!

Mint's main feature is its potent smell, which is said to deter common pests such as cabbageworms and cabbage moths, ants, aphids, and flea beetles. Generally, mint can be planted in pots alongside any veggies that are affected by these pests, like peppers, broccoli and cauliflower, and other leafy greens.

For more about companion planting, see our articles on the topic:

• https://www.almanac.com/content/companion-planting-guide">Companion Planting Guide
• https://www.almanac.com/content/companion-planting-chart-...">Companion Planting Chart for Vegetables

Creating a fruit tree guild is a wonderful way to promote biodiversity in a small space and to work permaculture into your garden. Generally, it's recommended to allow nature to take its course and let the perennials die back themselves, as they will eventually break down and feed the surrounding soil. However, if the garden is planted very tightly together, you may want to cut and remove some of the larger perennials as they die back (like yarrow, for example) so that they do not end up suffocating out the others.

You should also keep an eye out for any signs of pests or disease—fungal or bacterial spots, mildew, pests, and so on—and remove infected material from the garden. This helps to prevent it from building up in one location and perpetuating the disease in the following growing season.

stem canker

They both do better outdoors, in the sun. Note that basil is an annual (it lasts for one growing season) and mint is a perennial (it should come back every year, if maintained properly). Everybody starts somewhere. Congratulations on beginning gardening!

To grow mint outdoors in containers, you might want to select a pot that is at least 8 inches wide and 10 to 12 inches deep. A larger width might be good if you'd like to plant a variety of different mints together.

We dug deep for this answer. Here's what we found: https://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:XKK...">OSU Mint Guide

We hope this helps!

To harvest mint, pick leaves just before flowering or cut the stems to keep from flowering. Plants will often grow new branches below the cut.

Mint definitely spreads quickly otherwise. If this is fine with you, let it flower. If you have different mint varieties, however, and you want to keep them true, you need to remove all flowering stems to avoid cross pollination.

You cant grow mint from seeds, you use cuttings. Its a very easy and fast grower, and spreader. plant spring/summer/fall, it will die back every year but the roots live and keep growing each year and it grows back bigger and bigger. Best bet is to buy from a garden center or wallmart or something. Easy to grow.

I have mint inside in Colorado also, I had it above a heat vent and a couple times found the leaves dry and crumbly. I very quickly gave it water and it revived, except the dry, crumbly leaves.

Yes, spearmint is listed in the varieties!

You're right in saying that the biggest challenge is the amount of light. Herbs including mint do best when grown in a very sunny window that receives between  6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight each day (typically a southern or southwestern exposure). When growing herbs under natural light, be certain to rotate the pot every 3 to 4 days to ensure uniform growth of the plant. If your windows do not offer enough sunlight, you can supplement natural lighting with fluorescent light. In general, for every hour of required sunlight, expose the plants to two hours of fluorescent light. Herbs grown entirely under fluorescent lights will require between 14 to 16 hours of artificial lighting. Place herb plants no closer than 5 or 6 inches and no farther than 15 inches from the light source.

Your plant could be infested with spittle bug; it produces milky white substance. It is believed not to harm the plant, but you can eliminate it by hosing/watering it off of the plant (a rain will often be enough).  The bugs hide under the foam, so washing it off will reveal them to predators—ladybugs and lacywings (if there are any) who will have the spittlebugs for lunch.

We hope this helps.

Certainly! You can use dried mint in your own blend of teas (both iced and hot), or add it to sauces, soups, veggies, casseroles, salad dressings, spice rubs on meat, baked goods--all sorts of options for foods. For health, some people like to place dried mint (sometimes mixed with other dried herbs) in cheesecloth or muslin bags and then let it soak in their bath water, to add soothing fragrance. Tinctures to relieve digestive troubles can also be made with dried mint. Dried mint is also used in potpourris, sachets, soaps, etc. Hope this helps!

It's hard to know, but it could be the excessive heat. They prefer temperatures around 60 to 80F. When such days occur, it might help to provide a little shade. Mints do like moist soil, but not overly so. During hot days, it may appreciate watering twice a day, but check the soil first to make sure that it isn't soggy. Overwatering often appears on the plant as yellowing wilting leaves that feel soft, and also soggy soil. Underwatering, the leaves are crisp and brown, with dry soil. If the plants are very crowded, your mint might also be under stress, as the roots like to spread. Also make sure they haven't been overfertilized, which sometimes turns leaves brown.
You can trim off just the browning leaves.

I'm planning to plant then next year. Now they are in container and planning to take them indoor around Oct.. I live near Great Lakes, near Wisconsin & Illinois border. It gets chilly during winter. Are you from that cold part?

Sadly, powdery mildew is difficult to control, not least because, apparently there are several types (species) of it. It may have developed at the source—the (likely) greenhouse in which it was grown (forced, possibly) and prepped for sale. One source suggests that while in a greenhouse, mint plants are constantly "washed" with overhead irrigation. Once that ceases for more than a few days, the humidity of that environment opens the risk of mildew. (It can not germinate when plants are wet.) Why are you only seeing it now, you might wonder? Well, it can take up to a week for it to develop into a visible colony. You can try removing the infected plant parts. Increase air circ around the plant. However, we must advise that survival rate is low, success with mint indoors will be a challenge. Your best bet is to grow it outdoors in the ground or in a pot, in season. It is a perennial, but like most perennials, it goes dormant—and it will go dormant; you can not fool Mother Nature. We wish we had better news...

The author is "The Old Farmer's Almanac" and reference the page URL.

chocolate mint might not have a strong enough odor, try spearmint or peppermint, they're more "smelly" ;)

Cruciferae unfortunately are very susceptible to aphids, whiteflies, and lots of caterpillars. they aren't even worth planting in my area; you won't get to harvest much of anything. is it possible you area is also such a place?

Mints are perennials. While they might survive the winter in your greenhouse, it is also possible that they will be "cooked" (die)—assuming like most glass structures your greenhouse heats up in the sunlight. You would be better off putting the plants, pots and all, into holes in the ground, surrounded by soil. (If the plants are pot bound now, consider transferring them into larger pots them before setting them into the ground. That way, if they do set roots, they will do it within the pot first.) That way, they will experience a "natural" winter: rain, snow, snow melt, etc. If you lift the pots in late winter/early spring before roots start spreading out, you should be able to avoid introducing the plant into the yard or garden. Then continue to care for them as potted plants, including putting them back into the smaller pots if you like (clip the roots, if nec to get the plants to fit).

That sounds like the work of a leafminer. Barriers and repellents, beneficial insects, biological pesticides, and soaps and oils are recommended. It is not a pest that will necessarily compromise the plant's health; it is more of an aesthetic nuisance.

If you want to continue harvesting mint, you need to cut off the flowers. If you want the seed, you can keep the flowers. Bees will also enjoy the flowers if you'd like to keep them.

There seem to be several claims. Mentha x piperita (peppermint), M. spicata (spearmint) , M. suaveolens (apple or woolly mint), and M. arvensis (wild or field mint), have all been called sweet mint. Best guess, the name commercially might usually refer to some form of spearmint. M. arvensis grows in the wild, but not as common to find commercially. One vendor sells sweet mint but separates it from basic peppermint and spearmint - unfortunately, no botanical name listed.

Michigan is in Zones 4 to 6. Depending on where you are, emergence time will vary. It will also depend on local conditions and plant health. Best guess would be that you should see signs within the next 3 weeks. If nothing shows, it might be that the plants suffered from disease or pests, or water/freezing issues. Although most varieties of mint are quite hardy, some are more delicate and might struggle overwintering, depending on conditions. If you hadn't already, in future you might provide winter protection, such as moving the planter to an unheated garage, or covering the soil with a thick layer of mulch, or placing the entire container in a leaf bag and covering with leaves along the sides and top, so that any strong cold snaps would have less of a chance of hurting the dormant plant.

Yes, you can grow mint in the desert southwest. Although mint prefers it cool and moist, it tolerates a wide range of conditions. The key is to keep the soil moist and to provide shade during hot afternoons, such as by using a shade cloth. You can also plant in part shade.

We do not sell plants, but you might check local garden centers or online for mailorder nurseries that sell to your area.

Brown leaves could mean several things. Best guess is that it is getting too much water. Even though it likes moist soil, make sure that the soil is not waterlogged. Test the soil: if it feels dry, or almost dry, then water. If it is moist or soggy, do not water; cut back on the watering schedule a bit and remove the brown leaves. Make sure there is a drainage hole in the bottom of the pot. Other causes could be viruses or fungal diseases, or pests, overcrowded roots, etc.

Mint can be grown in Zones 8 and 9, but in hot summers, you'll need to have it in partial shade and be sure that it is kept moist (but not waterlogged). Morning sun and afternoon partial shade is good.

Mint can be grown in pots indoors, but will need adequate light. Try a sunny window, and turn the plant every few days; if your plant is not happy, then you might try adding some artificial grow lights, found at garden centers, to supplement. Keep the plant moist, but not waterlogged, and you might mist it every so often.

Mint is known to deter white cabbage moths, ants, rodents, flea beetles, and aphids.

Seedlings need lots of light (14 to 16 hours is ideal). Use tepid water to keep the soil moist (and do not overwater). Ventilation and air circulation is very important. Moving air helps strengthen the stems.

Seedlings need lots of light (14 to 16 hours is ideal). If you don't have enough natural light fluorescent shop lights work well. Use tepid water to keep the soil moist (do not overwater). Ventilation and air circulation is important. Moving air helps strengthen the stems. You can use a small fan. If using plastic to start the seeds remove as soon as seeds germinate.

Even if your mint is growing in a raised bed, such as a tire, if there is no barrier at the bottom, the roots (runners) will find their way underground and spread, working their way under the tire to the rest of the lawn. In many cases, mints spread aggressively. It's best to plant them in a pot (you could even place the pot in the center of the tire); you could also sink the pot down so that the rim is just above the soil.

I have a funny story. I planted mint in a pot and kind of buried the pot for insulation. My friend pulled the pot up and I heard this terrible ripping sound. My roots had gone under the pot into that ground. That year my pot did nothing and I thought my mint was dead. Nop, it had moved down into the ground under the pot and now I have a yard full of wonderful smelling mint. And very few bugs.

Spearmint and peppermint are winter hardy and will most likely survive outside on the balcony with some protection. The chocolate mint is more tender and may not make it. Put the pots close together in a cardboard box or some other bigger container. Add straw under and around the pots and cover the pots with straw. You can also add a blanket over the top of the box.

It could be a type of catmint (Nepeta). There are hundreds of kinds.  Some, like catnip, attract cats and others, like your stinky one, repel cats and even insects such as mosquitoes.

My daughter planted a chocolate mint outside and we got it from a nursery so I know that's what it is. The pictures are the same, it's obvious. To me, it smells sort of skunky when people brush against it, not chocolaty, sweet, or minty at all. No one else in the family notices it, just me. And it's not as strong as a real skunk or as lasting (thankfully!) but it could be the chocolate mint. I also have bee balm, spearmint, peppermint, orange mint, and catnip planted and none of those smell skunky to me, but the chocolate does every time.

Peppermint is hardy to Zone 3, but invasive. In Minnesota, you can plant peppermint in a weather-resistant container and sink it into the garden to its rim. Leave this over winter. You can harvest leaves throughout the growing season, or cut the plant back to just above one or two sets of leaves, just before the plant flowers (flavor is best then). Do this up to three times per growing season; it will grow back. You can dry or freeze the leaves, as well.

Many folks find that peppermint oil will deter a mouse because of its strong aroma.  

In gardens, plant herbs such as lavender around borders to keep pests out. This is a form of "companion planting."

You can try to make an herbal spray treatment to spray around plants or around your kitchen. Just add herbs to a jar of water and let it sit in the sun for a few days. Pour into a spray bottle and spray daily. 

However, the mice are not likely to actually leave real shelter if they have nowhere to go. You also need to make sure all cracks in the house are sealed, especially rooms where food is kept. All food should be off the floor and keep a clean cleaning around the house including weeds or woodpiles. If you happen to live in a country area, the goal is just to make the mice manageable because they can fit under any crack less than 1/4-inch thick.

For the mice inside the house, you may need to resort to trapping if you feel strongly about living together; otherwise, they will die inside the house.

Find all the holes and openings in your house and stuff them with steel wool. Mice hate this and will not attempt to get through. Look under your stove, air condition vents, dishwasher connections etc! The extra addition of the mint around the perimeters will work great. You should be in great shape as long as you find and stuff all openings!

Mint is perennial, so it should come back next season. If it is in a pot, you could put it into a garage or basement for the coldest days in winter. If in ground, it will be fine.

Mint plants bought from nursery could be old plants, hence the entire pot is just roots and some stems and leaves. 1) cut the stem and put the cuttings in the original pot with soil gravel but ensure water drainage and airation 2) make mint root mulch for the mint cutting growth 3) observe further and adjust to the new situation 4) buy a new pot and try again

It could possibly be a sport, which is a genetic mutation (which plant breeders sometimes use to create new cultivars). Or, it could be a reversion--when a stem produces characteristics of the parent plant instead; some mutations (such as variegation in certain cases) are not stable, and will sometimes revert back to a parent characteristic. Another possibiity is that the change was caused by a virus or environmental condition. Unless you are a knowledgeable plant breeder and this is a mutation, then it is probably best to prune it out--especially if it is caused by a virus.

It's hard to know what might be going on, but mint is usually quite hardy. A few varieties, such as Corsican mint, are less cold tolerant. Peppermint is one of the hardiest. Was the area covered by mulch or fall leaves? If the soil was bare at any time during a deep freeze, it is possible that the roots have died back, at least somewhat. You might try keeping the area moist (but not waterlogged) and waiting a little longer to see if the plants recover. However, if you want to be sure you have some mint this season, you might add at least one more plant.

It might also be possible that your mint has been attacked by a pest or disease. Mint flea beetle larvae, for example, feed on mint roots (the eggs overwinter and the larvae hatch in spring). Dig up a small area to see if you can spot the roots and check their health. Look for holes in the roots, where a larva might be inside. For more information, see:

http://mint.ippc.orst.edu/mfbmanagement.htm

http://mint.ippc.orst.edu/rootinsects.htm

I have both spearmint and peppermint. I tried both cutting from their mother plant and placed it in a container with water. The spearmint grew roots 2days but the peppermint still haven't 5 days now. I just planted the spearmint that has grown its roots to a soil and container and doing fine.

I planted spearmint for the first time and have been pinching off pieces for tea for several weeks. The spearmint is much hardier looking than the mint. I'm going to grow some indoors this winter.

Hi, Crazy: Welcome to the Minter's Remorse Club, although it does sound to us as though you still retain some measure of sanity -- which you will need. A lot depends on how big an area you are talking about. Unfortunately, flower gardens are especially difficult to fumintigate (we just made that word up, so don't go looking for it). Short of just pulling everything up, the way to start is around the edges of your plot, or even around edges of specific mint colonies beyond which you are sure that it has not spread. Start killing all the way around the edge. You can apply boiling water; or a 5:5:2 mixture of vinegar:water:dish soap; or even newspapers or flagstones to block light. Give it a day, then start pulling up, being as careful as possible to get everything. The problem is the rhizomes, which spread laterally and look like white shoelaces or pieces of spaghetti. You need to get every bit. When you start your next session farther inside your perimeter, recheck where you did before, clawing up the soil again to make sure you didn't miss anything. Work your way inward in each area. It's a long, long process, but you certainly get to know your garden well! Good luck!

It's best if the container or does no have drainage holes. If it does have holes cover them up with plastic or duct tape from the inside. Plastic or ceramic pots work well. Fill with dirt and plant the mint. Then bury the container in the garden bed.

Plant the mint in a container that you can move indoors when it gets too hot outside. Mint is perennial and will survive cold winters.

If the pots didn't stay frozen solid for more than a few days, I'm sure they'll be fine. In the future, it is best to plant mint in the ground if you expect a hard freeze or bring the pots inside. You can plant mint in a ceramic pot in the ground to prevent the spread of roots, to make the plant less invasive. Just be sure to check for runners too.

Hi Angelia,

Keep the soil evenly moist (not too wet) and cut off any dead stems and leaves. The plant may grow new stems from the roots.

Hi, Becky, Just as everything has a season, it sounds like that of your mint has passed. When mint begins flower and then go to seed, the leaves—the harvest—begin to become bitter. Mint is a perennial, however, so hope—and this herb—spring eternal.

Hi Judy,

Make sure the pot has drainage holes and water when the soil has just started to dry. Also make sure that you use a well draining potting mix. Move the pot to a spot that is not in direct sunlight.

I grow mine outside for now (will take them indoors as it gets cooler) & they're doing great. I only water them once a week though. Maybe you're watering them too much if the soil is always moist.

You gave it to much sun think about the shady places that later in the day will get sunny.

Hi, Nidhi, Powdery mildew thrives in hot, humid conditions. It's best to avoid watering from top down (including leaves) to reduce humidity. We are not familiar with a vinegar remedy for mildew. We do advise removing infected parts and spraying with a solution of 1 teaspoon baking soda in 1 quart of water. Or use a fungicide. Certainly spreading mildew could be harming your plant. Then again, a month is not a long time to let a plant get established.

Because the vinegar may have permeated the plant and the soil, you might (might) try replanting it. After only a month, it may not yet be "at home" in its pot. This could be risky, but the plant might need a fresh start.

If the plant fails to thrive after a period of time, start again, consider the weather (per above), water only after it dries out from the previous watering, and give the plant time. If at all possible, try a disease-resistant plant.

We hope this helps.

For mildew, may I suggest a mild solution of baking soda with a drop or two of Dawn liquid soap. I have never tried vinegar.

I use vinegar as an herbicide, I would spray vinegar and anymore of your plants.

You can harvest the mint while it is flowering but the taste may not be as rich as before bloom. You can keep the mint in check by pulling up some of the plants. Mint can become very invaisive if not controlled. Also trim off the buds and flowers to keep the plants compact.

Mint generally flowers from the month of June through September. You'll see the buds forming and you'll just want to trim before the buds open. 

Several folks say that mint can be grown indoors; bear in mind that it needs certain conditions in which to thrive: full to partial sunlight, temps from 55°F (night) to 70°F (day), air circulation, and humid—not dry—air. Putting a put in pan of shallow water or misting will help the humidity. Air circ is helped by keeping some space between the mint and other plants (ironically, grouping containers aids in increasing humidity; you need to find a happy medium). A fan also helps to circulate air. Temps are in your control.

If you prefer to plant it, it should come back in the spring. Mint is a perennial. Be aware that it spreads on runners (some people consider it to be invasive). For that reason, many people plant it in a pot that will contain it. Remember the old adage about spreaders: Year 1 it sleeps; year 2 it creeps; year 3 it leaps. Don't be fooled if it doesn't spread immediately; it will.

If planted outside, don't prune (cut down) your mint within six weeks of your first frost; the cuts would not have time to heal. Six weeks after would be fine.

I've used stems and leaves for brewing tea. The stem doesn't adversely affect the flavor, but it doesn't add anything either. If you're grinding up the mint like in the mint cookie recipe listed in the article or steeping it, leaving it on just makes it easier to keep all the leaves together.

It's got offshoots,, is trying to expand. I

You have two different kinds of mint. One sounds like spearmint or peppermint, the dark one is chocolate mint. At least, that's what it sounds like. Smell them, if they're different, they'll smell exactly like the gum, candy, or cookie they're used for. (And, of course, if they smell different, they're not the same kind.)

Mint seedlings can be planted any time during the growing season, but it is best to do so in spring to help the plants to establish themselves before winter; in frost-free climates, you can plant in early fall.

As soon as the plants develop several large leaves, you can harvest lightly, taking a few leaves each time (but don't strip the plant of leaves, leave plenty behind), all the growing season. Best time to harvest for flavor is in the morning. The flavor changes when the plants flower, so keep pinching off any flower buds (unless you are planning a large harvest, in which case, see below). Also pinch the growing tips periodically to deter flowering and promote bushy growth.

As an alternative, you can do one or more larger harvests. In this case, wait a year or two for a newly planted plant to establish. Then just before the plant flowers (which is when the flavor is more intense), cut the plant about 6 inches from the base, leaving several leaves. The plant may grow back one or two times during the season for more harvesting.

We tend to plant mint in its own bed or container. In a bed, a good tip is to submerge a pot in the ground.
Herbs such as oregano and prostrate rosemary may be able to hold their own. Let us know what you discover!

I would recommend Bowles Mint. It is very aggressive and easily chokes out other plants. Bugs also dislike the smell and will keep away from Bowles Mint, most of the time.

Dear melissa have u tired triming your mint at least once a week? u can take the stems u cut and save them in a vase inside for winter.

Make sure the soil is moist and doesn't dry out. Put the container where it will receive good morning light and make sure that it's not close to heating vents that will dry the soil. No need for fertilizer right now.

I have propagated lots of mint plants, need a humidity dome, or use a bottle cut bottom of place in pot in need light but not direct light after a few weeks roots will grow them remove bottle allow it to adjust to cool weather don't put in direct sunlight into roots grow stronger after a week are 2 place in sunlight after a while process become second nature ... Message for more info I have had success with growing these

Dear Jessica Walter nothing is wrong with your plant it is just growing i have had my mint for only to months and it is doing like what u have described. nothing is wrong its just growing bigger but ever now and then if the branches r long enough u may have to trim them.

In cold regions mint dies back in the winter and usually grows back in the spring. Wait and see before you get new plants.

Loamy soil just means nice balanced soil. Usually loamy soil is loose, not too compacted nor too sandy. When growing mint in containers, use any quality potting soil. Ask your garden center. When planted in the ground, mints prefer healthy organic soil without too many fertilizers. This can
be accomplished by tilling in a generous amount of
organic matter to the area to be planted. Home
or commercial bagged compost is the most readily
available form of organic amendment available.

I'm having the same ant issue with my mint, growing in a pot outside on my deck in northeast florida. Did you figure out what's up with that?

Before winter, cut each plant back to the ground to
discourage pests and diseases.  During the growing season, cut mint back about 3 times within 1 inch of the soil, just before the plant blooms. It's hard to over-prune mint once established.

Mint is indeed great for a horse's digestive track. For horses, we would dry the mint and then mix into feed.  For you, a mint tea might be just the thing! It's easy to make mint tea. Boil water, remove from heat, add mint leaves (15 leaves per two cups water), and steep for a few minutes. Add sweetener if desired.

Mint isn't a huge attractor bees but it does flower and the blossoms will attract the bees. I will add -- have you ever observed bees when they are collecting pollen? They are completely unconcerned about people. This type of bee--which is busy collecting pollen--is not aggressive towards humans (unlike some stinging insects). However, the more mint you plant, the more bees you'll get. So keep this is mind.

You should trim the mint flowers before the buds open to keep the plant compact. Trim them off now and keep trimming to help keep the plant compact. Harvest the tips regularly, too.
If you are getting leggy plants, this suggests that they aren't getting enough sunshine.

The pot may be too small for the plant. Mint roots need lots of room. If you remove the plant from the pot you'll see a tangle of roots. Get a pot twice the size of the one it's in now. If your plant has flowers pinch them off so that the energy will go into growing new leaves.

Unfortunately, there are a variety of pests that enjoy eating mint. Neem oil is a great insecticide that is safe to use on any plant of any kind. It helps reduce disease issues, too. For more information, here is a helpful herb guide:
http://www.hort.uconn.edu/ipm/greenhs/htms/herbmanl.pdf

For ants try a mixture of cinnamon and cayenne, you can just sprinkle it on, or make a solution and spray it around the area they like to visit.

For spider mites: The trick is to catch the mites very early. Douse the plant in water daily. If you see the mites, spray with insecticidal soap as directed. If the mites are too prolific, there's not a lot you can do. Trim down the central stem to encourage bushy growth. You want the mint to say compact and fill the pot. Pinch off bad leaves. You can truly harvest the mint any time; it grows so aggressively that you won't slow it down. Pick leaves from the top to encourage bushiness. Do not pick more than a third of the plant at a time.

The short answer is carefully. In spring, start by uprooting the mint plants, while causing minimal disturbance to their neighbors. Do this as soon as you see the mint emerging, certainly before the mints produce flowers. Continue uprooting mint every time you see it. (If the plant's root can not produce leaves, it can not grow.) This might take a season or two, but eventually it should cease to appear. If you want to keep a plant or two, contain the plant above ground or in a container below ground. It's worth having some around; it is a good ingredient in salads and other dishes. We hope this helps!

Mint is known to prevent ants from entering your home if planted around the foundation. If you plant mint in your garden sink containers into the ground as mint is very invasive.

I use alum (Pickering spice) just sprinkle around the house where you see or suspect them to be, thay take it back to the nest and it dehydrates them It works well Sandra

Boric acid mixed with peanut butter or concentrated milk (the sugery kind) put a few blobs along the paths that they make, they'll find it and because they take it back to the nest without eating it, it will then be mixed with the rest of the food in the nest and handed out in the evening's 'rations' killing the nest from the inside out seeing as the queen is spoon fed, may be a chemical solution and not to your tastes, but takes very little and is available from the chemist.

I just found out an even more natural way to kill ants, though be careful around plants. Boil water and pour it on the ant hill soon it will be the ant apocalypse. Found it on youtube .

I've had chocolate mint yum : )

i remember reading years ago people putting chewing gum in the hole for moles ..maybe it was mint gum.. worth a try

Here are our best suggestions on how to control Groundhogs (Woodchucks): http://www.almanac.com/content/woodchucks

No. They love mint, and have burrowed under my mint, and come out of the hole and stand on 2 legs to eat the tops off

Really? I read online mint oils are a natural roach repellent.