Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Bell Peppers (Sweet Peppers)
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Planting
Grow peppers in a space with full sun and well-draining, moist (but not wet) soil. Plant peppers in a spot where they will get at least 6 hours of direct sunshine every day. A balance between sandy and loamy soil will ensure the soil drains well and warms quickly. Mix large amounts of organic matter (such as compost) into the soil, especially when working with heavy clay.
Avoid planting peppers in places where you’ve recently grown other nightshade family members—such as tomatoes, potatoes, or eggplants—as this can expose peppers to disease.
When to Plant Peppers
- To start peppers indoors in pots, sow seeds 8 to 10 weeks before your last spring frost date.
- Plant pepper starts or transplants outdoors about 2 to 3 weeks after the threat of frost has passed and the soil has reached 65°F (18°C).
How to Start Peppers Indoors
- To start indoors: Start pepper seeds 1/4-inch deep, three to a pot filled with potting mix. For faster germination, maintain soil at 70°F (21°C) or above. To achieve these sorts of temperatures, you’ll probably need a heated propagator or heat mat and some grow lights.
- Ideal conditions should see seedlings appear within about 2 weeks, but some varieties take as long as 5 weeks, so don’t give up on them too soon! Thin out the weakest seedling; let the remaining two pepper plants in each pot grow as one. The leaves of two plants help to protect the peppers.
- If seedlings become leggy or too tall before it’s time to plant outside, replant them in a bigger pot up to their lowest leaves, just like tomatoes, to help support them. Keep seedlings warm with plenty of light until you’re ready to plant. If the plants have around five to eight leaves and you can see roots at the drainage holes, it’s time to move them up a pot size.
- Be sure to harden off the seedlings about 10 days before transplanting outdoors, as peppers are very sensitive to cool temperatures. Before planting peppers outdoors, acclimatize plants to outdoor conditions by placing them in a sheltered spot outside for gradually increasing periods over 2 weeks. Take care to avoid frosts. Plant out only after your last expected frost date has passed.
How to Plant Peppers Outdoors
- If you’re buying pepper starts, choose ones with straight, sturdy stems, 4 to 6 leaves, and no blooms or fruit. To harden off pepper plants, set plants outdoors a week or more after the frost-free date or when the average daily temperature reaches 65°F (18°C).
- Before transplanting in the garden, mix aged manure and/or compost into the soil about 8 to 10 inches deep and rake it several times to break up the large clods.
- Put transplants into the ground once the soil temperature has reached 65°F (18°C). Speed up the warming of the soil by covering it with black plastic or a dark mulch about a week before you intend to plant.
- It is best to transplant peppers in the evening or on a cloudy day. This will keep the plants from drying too much and wilting.
- Make the transplant holes 3 to 4 inches deep and 12 to 18 inches apart in the row. Space the rows 2 to 3 feet apart. Before planting, fill the holes with water and let it soak in. Into each planting hole, put two or three wooden matchsticks (for sulfur) and 1 teaspoon of low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus fertilizer (too much nitrogen will reduce the fruit set).
- When pulling the transplant out of its tray or pot, be gentle and leave as much soil as possible around the roots. Set the transplants about 1 inch deeper than they were in their original container. Fill the hole with soil and pack it loosely around the plant. Leave a slightly sunken area around each plant to hold water.
- Water the plants after planting.
- Using liquid fertilizer material (manure tea, compost tea, or starter fertilizer) is usually beneficial at this time.
- Stake now to avoid disturbing the roots later. If necessary, support plants with cages or stakes to prevent bending. Try commercially available cone-shaped wire tomato cages. They may not be ideal for tomatoes, but they are just the thing for peppers. Or, build your own garden supports.
Check out this video to learn how to plant bell peppers:
Types
Look for varieties that ripen to their full color quickly; fully mature peppers are the most nutritious—and tastier, too!
- Green peppers that turn Red: ‘Lady Bell’, ‘Gypsy’, ‘Bell Boy’, ‘Lipstick’
- Orange: ‘Milena’, ‘Orange Sun’
- Yellow: ‘Golden California Wonder’
Harvesting
- Once the plants begin producing fruit, pick them promptly: the moment they have reached their full size and color. Regular picking encourages plants to produce more flowers and, of course, more fruit.
- That said, the longer bell peppers stay on the plant, the sweeter they become and the greater their vitamin C content.
- Snip the stems of fruits with a sharp pair of clean pruners, scissors, or a sharp knife.
How to Store Peppers
- Peppers can be refrigerated in plastic bags for up to 10 days after harvesting.
- Bell peppers can be frozen for later use. See how to freeze peppers.
- Peppers can also be dried. Preheat oven to 140°F. Wash, core, and seed. Cut into 1/2-inch strips. Steam for about 10 minutes, then spread on a baking sheet. Dry in oven for 4 to 6 hours; turn occasionally and switch tray positions. Cool, then store in bags or containers in a refrigerator.
Cooking Notes
Peppers are excellent with almost anything: sandwiches, scrambled eggs, pizza, salads, and dips.
We also enjoy cooking peppers, whether in a beef stir-fry, as smoky roasted peppers, or in meat- and rice-stuffed peppers.
Plus, peppers can be pickled! See how to make pickled peppers!
Catherine Boeckmann
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last year (about the time the original question was asked) I had a bunch of peppers that I did not want to loose. I dug up the plant, root ball and all, and put them in large nursery pots I had saved. they were in shock about two days because it had been cool, but the fruit all ripened. some of the plants were still (sort of) alive at the end of the winter but did not appear to try regrowing. this year I am going to plant some in pots a little later in the season but keep them in the garden so they can be pollinated before winter- that late in the year the bees and other pollinators are trying to build up their food stores for the winter with whatever is around and will be glad for the food. plus can be brought into a garage or other unheated space overnight if there is a frost coming and put back out the next morning
By the way I also dug up the marigolds and geraniums in the garden because they were still blooming, and put them in clean cat litter boxes, saved aluminum buffet pans (the ones that go over the burner- double up for strength), and saved plastic trays from hamburger. at the holidays I put cloth around them and had nice arrangements on display
Online friends claim both peppers and the individual plants which bore them come in two genders which can be identified by the number of lobes on the peppers and the appearance of the seeds inside them. This seems botanically questionable and not provable except by chromosomal studies. Does anyone know about this for sure?
A hot topic, it appears, on the Web. No. It’s a hoax. Pepper plant flowers contain both mail and female reproductive parts, and so the developing fruit is neither male nor femaile. The number of lobes does not affect flavor. Don’t believe everything you read on the Web…but you can believe this.
I have grown some in pots. Strangely some of the fruit has the colour of the aubergine. Why is this?? Please!!
They may be purple, Ken, because they ARE purple peppers! If you started them from seeds, we can not explain the confusion; the packet should have been marked…or it was and you did not know. If you bought them as seedlings, it’s possible that the plant stick was moved from other peppers inadvertently; it happens occasionally.
They are different from other bells in so far as the contain a pigment called anthocyanin, which give them their inky color. They may be slightly more bitter than red, yellow, or orange bell peppers…or that may be a matter of taste.
Harvest, eat, and enjoy!
Mid October the first part of October we had 2.5 inches of rain. Now mid October I'm picking my peppers they have water in side and they have black spots and areas in side, they are solid are they OK to use?
It sounds likely that they are diseased. In that case, it may be best not to eat them since it is not known what exactly is infecting the fruit. Even if the spotted areas are removed (cut at least 1 inch further out from the affected area), unblemished areas may still harbor fungus, bacteria, or viruses that may cause trouble, depending on the pathogen. Quality will likely not be as good either, perhaps affecting taste etc. Unfortunately, when in doubt, throw it out.
I have 3 plants. Each produced about 6 peppers each. They stopped yielding about 3 weeks ago, but now all 3 have some flowers and more baby peppers. Is it common to get a 2nd harvest?
I too have had a second Harvest from my Bells!
This second Harvest has produced more peppers than the first and seeming bloomed after a long hot drought, so perhaps the more temperate weather has caused a second Harvest?
Had you experienced cool or hot temperatures earlier and now temperatures have moderated? Nighttime temperatures below 60F or above 75F can hamper fruiting. Also, if you had very hot daytime temperatures, such as 90F or above, that can cause blossoms to drop or pollen to become sterile, reducing fruit production until plants recover. Ideal daytime temps are between 70 and 80 (hot peppers can take about 5 degrees higher). Drought or other stress, too much nitrogen, or other factors can also discourage fruiting.
