Nasturtium Flowers: Planting, Growing, and Caring for Nasturtiums

The hardiness zones listed on this page indicate where the plant is capable of surviving winter. Nasturtiums can be grown in zones 2-11, but are typically only hardy in 10 and 11.

The leaves are the way the plant gets its food to grow so don't cut the leaves too early. However, if your nasturtium is getting out of control, then it's best to trim back the tips and undersides of nasturtiums every few days even if it means trimming off flowers that have yet to bloom. This is hard to do but will keep the plant more compact and healthier. If you have too many leaves at expense of blooms, it may be because you are using fertilizer. It’s better to not fertilize them to have plants with good blooms that last longer rather than a crazy, full knockout plant that will only last a few weeks.

It depends upon the type of nasturtiums you are growing. The dwarf varieties grow low to the ground and stay in more of a bunched fashion, growing upwards (Jewel/Alaska varieties) . The trailing type (Tropaeolum majus (Empress/Moonlight/Amazon Jewell varieties)) will either cascade or can be trained to crawl upward onto a fence, border or stand. I hope this helps in some way?

If they've died completely, they can be removed from the bed. As for what caused them to perish, it's hard to say without knowing more... What have the weather conditions been like? Dry? Wet? Are other plants growing well in the same soil?

This is an eco-friendly fertilizer and your plants should benefit from it, if applied as directed on the package.

Sounds like ideal conditions are in your favor!

Shade reduces the number of blossoms and increases leaf size (and reach). It may also be due to too-moist soil.

Nasturtiums are annuals. They will die with the first frost—and not comeback.

Nasturtiums are annuals. They will die with the first frost—and not comeback.

They have a slight peppery taste. I wash and use fresh to add colour and flavour to salads and smoothies. I have also used in stir fries

Take a stick of butter and let it soften to room temperature. Chop orange or red nasturtium flowers into small pieces and mix into the butter. Reform into any shape and refrigerate. The nasturtium butter will have a peppery flavor and will be a colorful addition to the lunch or dinner table. Use on toast or in any dish where pepper would compliment the taste and color would enhance the presentation. Also, simply chop nasturtium leaves and add into any salad. Like the flowers, the leaves add a peppery flavor. Add flowers and/or leaves in meat,vegetable, fruit or cheese dishes where pepper and color would be appreciated. Add just before serving to look brighter and taste fresher.

The peatmoss and perlite soil may be too nutrient rich. These flowers prefer poor soil. The rich potting soils used for hanging plants may not agree with it.

Hi Melodee,

Yes, you can compost nasturtium vines, flowers, and seeds. There is only a small chance that any seeds would spread through the mulch. Nasturtiums don't spread quickly or aggressively. 

Nasturtium do like to have regular waterings; they just don't like to sit in water for extended periods. If you water tham as you water your veggie garden, they should do fine. Plant them far enough away from the veggies so that the two plants won't physically touch when fully grown. Approximately two yards away would be great. The idea is to use the nasturtiums as bait for the bad bugs, so we want to draw them away from the garden and keep them away. 

It may be a bit late in the year for your nasturtium to produce any new flowers unless you are in a rather warm climate, so your best bet would be to harvest whichever seeds you can from the flowers that were produced and save them for spring. In order to make the soil poorer, you will have to dilute the nutrients by mixing small amounts of the soil with other, poorer soil. It would be best to simply use a different bag of soil next year, if possible, and save the good stuff for plants who crave it!

I hope by now that you've had some growth on your plants. If they're only getting 2 hours of sunlight a day, that may be a problem. They require full sunlight to do their best. They're not shade lovers.

Ants on nasturtiums usually mean that there are aphids attacking your plants. The aphids secrete a sugary liquid called honeydew, which the ants love. (Ants actually tend aphids, sort of like livestock.) To control the ants (which will fight off predators of the aphids), control the aphids. Check along the stems and under leaves for these soft-bodied insects, which come in all sorts of colors, depending on species. For control, please see this helpful video:
https://www.almanac.com/video/aphids-pest-control-tips-ho...">https://www.almanac.com/video/aphids-pest-control-tips-ho...

And here is another article on aphids and their control:
https://www.almanac.com/pest/aphids">https://www.almanac.com/pest/aphids

Good luck!

To be honest, we've never grown nasturtium indoors. However, it could probably work on a windowsill with a lot of sunlight. This means you'd probably need to grow during the summer months unless you were going to look into grow lights. 

There are several mosaic viruses that can affect nasturtiums. Some are transmitted via sap-sucking insects, such as aphids, and can also be transmitted through non-sterile pruning tools, a touch of the hand, etc. A few are seed-borne. To prevent the spread of viruses, it is best to remove the affected plant; also clean up any debris, weeds, etc. in the area, as some viruses overwinter. Viruses spread throughout the whole plant, so unfortunately removing a section (such as mottled leaves) won't eliminate the virus. Usually, for the home gardener, there is no cure once a plant has a virus; one can only prevent its spread by eliminating the affected plant, and then try to control the vectors (such as insects) that transmit the disease.

If water is flowing out the bottom of the container, that's too much water—at least for nasturtiums. See above; overwatering is ill advised. That may be the cause of the yellow leaves, or it could be a pest bug; nasturtiums are notorious aphid magnets. See above and click through. The "long roots" are harder to explain. Moving on, it is said that nasturtiums do not transplant well, so moving to a larger container may not be successful. If the long-term plan was to transplant them, starting seeds in peat pots is recommended because the entire pot would be planted, leaving the roots undisturbed. Depending on how the plant is doing in the near term, it may be worth your while to start again, if possible—it's still early in the growing season! Read the guidance above and see if you get better results.

Hi Jill. Package directions usually assume two things: 1) Not all seeds will root and take; and 2) You are germinating before planting. If you just want to plant without germinating, then I'd recommend the 12 inches since they can get a bit bushy. However, you may risk some gaps in your garden until they fully develop out. Or you can always just plant more seeds, and try it again, in the areas where the seeds don't end up rooting.

Hi Val Hi from NZ! I have nasturtiums in my garden - it is now May and they are still going strong! They are supposed to die off in the first frost and we have already had that! Having said that the season has been so weird this year and some of my nasturtium seeds that fell on the ground earlier in the season have germinated where they fell and I have more wee plants popping through. I am sure they will die off over winter though, but have hope that all the seeds that fell will do the trick again in spring.

Hi Anna, It should take 7 to 10 days for nasturtium to emerge. Note: Seeds are best planted outdoors after frost danger has passed. Indoor sowing is not recommended, as Nasturtiums do not transplant well. The seeds need darkness to germinate and a temperature of 55 F to 65 F.

Hi, Nicole, Nasturtiums like heat—heat from the summer sun, which also means a lot of it (long days' worth) and a high degree of warmth. Plus, nasturtiums do not like having their roots disturbed. So if you moved the plant into a new container, you jolted it (so to speak). It's hard to know if it will recover.

For the record, if you planted them in advance of the coming outdoor season, you might be a little ahead of schedule. Have you got seeds you can start again? it's best to start them a couple or a few weeks before moving them outdoors. If you plan to transplant them, start them in a peat pot so you can simply plant the entire thing, without disturbing the roots (again). Even if you want this as a potted plant, it might be best to try again later in season.

We hope this helps!

Katie, note above that nasturtiums are not particular or finicky about soil. They thrive in poor soil; if it's too rich (composted, fertilized, etc.) . As noted above, fertile soil will produce fewer blooms. If you add nitrogen, you will get lots of leaves and few flowers.

Hi Jane,

Any cultivar will work to repel whiteflies, squash bugs, aphids, many beetles, and cabbage loopers. They all function the same way by releasing an airborne chemical that is unpleasant to certain insect pests. So simply choose the one you like best.

If you would like them to seed around, leave them be until spring. If not, you can cut them back once they start to peter out and look ratty.

Hi Aurelle,

That black material is likely aphid excrement! Luckily, it is not a fatal situation; with a little soapy warm water and some light rubbing, it washes right off.

Hi Dana,

Actually, nasturtiums are a good companion plant for beans, as they deter bean beetles. So seed viability shouldn't be an issue.

It is normal for nasturtiums to go about a month before the flowers bloom, as well as for the leaves to be large. The flowers should be able to poke their way out from behind the leaves, especially if your plant is getting full sun. Nasturtiums tend to do well without much help, so we would recommend patience. If you want to encourage growth around the buds, you can prune lightly. Remember that nasturtium leaves are edible, so you can add what you take off to a salad! Good luck!

Nasturtiums are said to be less likely to be eaten by snails and slugs in general. However, it appears that the brown garden snail, found in parts of California and a few other states, does attack it.

Seedlings can be planted now. You can train nasturtium to climb up a lattice or have them cascade over a hanging basket. If you wish to create more flowers, pinch the runners from time to time.

Is it in a pot? if so, it may be potbound. Transplant it.

Is it mulched? if so, clear that off and let it breathe.

Is it dry? it may need water; nasturtiums like water—an inch per week.

If the soil is too thick, heavy, or dense, add some soil to thin is.

It may have a bacterial wilt. It could have come from the soil.

They like good soil—soil that vegetables thrive in, as they are companions to vegetables in that they attract beneficial insects.

We hope this helps.

Simply wash the black away with a strong spray from the hose.
When you see evidence of pests, you can also spray an insecticidal soap on the leaves, especially the underside. Spray early in the day so the spray doesn't burn the leaves. See our Aphids link above for more information.

Yes, neem oil is safe and one of the least toxic approaches. Note that some formulas are concentrated and should be diluted with water (2 to 5 tablespoons per gallon of water).

the problem with spraying them is that most sprays are toxic to bees and specially hummingbirds, so just using water repeatedly is best. They like full sun and dry, so if you are humid the bugs seem to come. Please do not spray them

Nasturtiums prefer poor, sandy soil. Overly rich soil deters flowering.

Hi Susan,

Pinch back leggy growth to a healthy set of leaves and dead head (remove) faded flowers (before they set seeds) to prolong blooming. Nasturtiums don't need much water. Only water when the soil is very dry.

No if like mine it will die shortly, I'm not sure why I have a few plants dotted around so I'll be experimenting consciously as to planting out in different soil types possibly next year, however the plants I give aftercare to are fantastic a fellow gardener gave a packet and just beautiful mix of colours and they are now trailing. I want to know though when the growing season comes to an end (climate change poss. and weather wise, maybe frost) as I wish to harvest for my local canteen to enjoy.

Hi, t: This will happen toward the fall, so you can keep clipping for the time being if you wish. Thanks for asking!

Yes, you can collect the seeds, place them on newspaper in a warm place with good air circulation for a few weeks to dry; any greenish seeds will turn brown. Discard any seeds that develop mold.

Hi, Stan: This would seem to be a pest of some sort, even one that eats and leaves. Try spraying very carefully with a very weak solution of dish soap and water, being very careful to cover both sides of all leaves. If this doesn't work, progress to a safe insecticide according to directions. It's not that we don't believe you when you say there's nothing there; it's just that it doesn't take very much to cause a lot of damage and then "disappear." Good luck!

Sounds like all is well!  You can train nasturtium to climb up a lattice or have them cascade over a handing basket. If you wish to create more flowers, pinch the runners from time to time.

You may be getting root rot if it is always raining. You could try starting the seeds inside and once they are stronger little plants then maybe plant them out.

I plant my seeds in the biodegradable planting cups with potting soil.. I slightly rub a nail file on the seed, to help with germination. I leave them in an area with full sun daily. They pop up in 10-20 days, depending on weather. I have about a dozen ready to transplant. They recommend not using an overly fertile soil. I didn't have any issues with regular potting soil. Lots of sun is crucial. Good luck!! I hope that your next go round with them works out!! :)

Hi, have you tried scarifying the seeds. Take off the outer coating of the seed. You can peel this off with out to much problem. If you are having problems soak them in water overnight, this helps soften the coating. You don't need to remove the outer layer, just a portion of it.

It may be bacterial leaf spot disease. Try to improve air circulation and avoid getting water on the leaves. It is a good idea to pick and destroy the infected leaves just like you are doing.

From looking at other posts, decided to go with a mix in my pots. 40% compost, 40% sand, 20% gravel. Hope that suits!

If you're credited this article as a reference, you'll want to add the link to this Web page; the author is The Old Farmer's Almanac. 

Hi, Kevin, Hold off on the fertilizer. Nasturiums really don't want much attention. They prefer a light, sandy soil—"poor" soil by some estimates. If you give them rich, fertile soil and fertilizers, you'll get lush leaves at the expense of blooms. Use "good" soil for something that will appreciate it.

Are you watering correctly? Water them deeply until overflowering and then let them get bone dry, and then water deeply again. Usually, watering is once a week.

One of these days (it's still early season in most places), the plants will surprise you with flowers.

I am having the same problem, all that has happened is that they grown leaves. No blooms and I have 5 days to see a few so I hope this information is valid.

1. Certainly, you can plant nasturtiums in your raised bed. You might try the dwarf or the 2- to 3-feet-long semi-trailing types rather than the full climbing types that can grow up to 10 feet long. Nasturtiums help to repel aphids and other pests.

2. Organic compost and garden soil may encourage more, and larger, leaves, perhaps at the expense of some blooms, but the plants should still do fine. (And the leaves, as well as the flowers, are edible.) Nasturtiums can tolerate several types of well-draining soil, but prefer poorer, sandy types--as long as it is not very poor, in which case they suffer.

It takes about 10 to 12 days for nasturtium seeds to germinate.

Place cuttings in moist medium such as perlite or clean sand. Keep it moist. Roots should form in about two to three weeks. Then put your rooted cutting right into the garden and keep it moist or put it in a pot and use standard potting mix.

Bill in Australia, what you're describing sounds like leaf miners. You can easily get rid of them by applying a systemic pesticide, such as Bayer Advanced Rose and Flower care(or any other that works through the roots), but be warned --the plants will no longer be safe to eat.

I have found if you use,some powdered garlic from the herb section in your supermarket and mix two tsp in a,spray bottle of water and spray the plant it deters most bugs and mites. Certainly works on.tomato plants and it is safe. Give it a try.

Don't trim too many leaves off the plant. The flowers will eventually grow bigger and extend beyond the leaves. All parts of the plant are edible. You can put the nasturtium leaves in a green salad.

Hi, Keaton, This plant's natural growth pattern is to be as much as a foot wide and a foot tall. Its natural shape is a mound or clump. It may also climb a bit. Trimming this plant back is likely to stunt its growth and is not recommended. Any stringiness or legginess in your plant may be an indication of insufficient sunlight, too much water, both, or too rich soil. If possible (if the plant is in a container), move the plant into sunlight. If it is wet, let it dry out. We hope this helps!

Try a different variety if you want a shorter plant there are many crawling creeping varieties of nasturtiums.!

Hi, Keaton: This depends on where you are, especially since nasturtiums are generally a spring flower. See above under "Planting" and also use the tools in the red bar above under "Gardening." Good luck!

For places in and around Delhi, the second fortnight of September is a good time to sow seeds for annual flowers.

Mary, I tried growing my rooted autumn cuttings in quality potting soil in a southern window receiving sun all day. They didn't flourish - just barely survived. I'm assuming it wasn't enough light in winter for them to prosper. Very disappointing, as I LOVE nasturtiums.

Hi Folks, I have a lot of experience gardening, the nasturtiums need inbetween soil and some plants need fertile soil so what I usually do for all plants is mix 1/2 best fertile potting soil and 1/2 gravel (sand), then the plant has fertilizer plus good drainage and always put a hole in the bottom of the pot, also research "Plantain Major" the #1 medicinal herb in the world - it is probably growing by your house, I ate 8 leaves a day for 1 week and I feel great, thanks Robert

Hi, Mathu: Go for it now. Care for them well, and you can expect fall or even early winter blooms, up until a frost.

Hi Morgan, We appreciate your kind words.  There are deep red nasturtiums that you can buy as seed and grow easily with neglect--no fertilizer! "Empress of India" is a deep velvety crimson flower and "Mahogney Jewel" is also a deep red. Both do well as ground cover which is why they are scattered as seed along highways. 

Hi, Hartmut: Well, it figures that somebody with Hart would overpamper their nasturtiums, aka nasties. The old saying that you can be "nasty to nasturtiums" is not totally true, but they can stand up to a lot of overnutritious, overwatered, and undersunned abuse -- sometimes. They like consistent sun, so maybe this windowbox setting is doomed anyway, but try gently lifting them and getting rid of your present soil. This process may shock them, but you've got nothing to lose. Replace it with regular topsoil, maybe even with a little sand mixed in (like 10:1). Water twice or once a week. Move the window box if you can or else plant in another -- sunny -- place. You can do it!

To keep weeds down try planting squash - the big leaves will shade weeds so they do not grow - you can eat zuccini blossoms and also the squash, the male flowers will not produce a squash so use those in your cooking, the male flowers are for pollinating the female flowers so you can pick the, the male flowers have a slender base, the female flowers have a thick base

Try mixing different plants together to control weeds and bugs and also produce vegetables to eat - squash to control weeds (Indians grew the three sisters, 8 corn plants in the center that grow tall - 12 pole beans to climb the corn - then 4 squash around the outside to control weeds

I plant marigolds and mint and chives and onions and garlec inbetween all of my vegetables and I have no bugs and they keep mosquitos away, mint will spread so find a corner in the yard where it can be by itself, I use the marigolds in my cooking (marigolds are the poor mans Saffron - one of the most expensive spices) (Saffron comes from the center of the crocus flower)

You can plant the nasturtiums mixed with other flowers / vegetables and the nasturtiums will climb above, I made a hedge with willow cutting (I trim to 10 feet) and planted morning glories and holyhocks next to it - the morning glories climbed them and then planted marigolds at the base, it is good gardening to mix flowers and vegetables

Hmm. Nasturtiums usually don't like their roots disturbed; perhaps it is stressed from its move (sometimes a plant produces flowers when stressed). Although it makes sense to remove flowers of an established plant to help it to focus on growing leaves, perhaps you might try leaving it alone so that it can recover from its relocation. Also, it could be just that the annual plant is winding down, as nasturtiums prefer the cooler weather of spring and fall. Shading from the heat of the day will certainly help, as well as keeping up with watering. You might try adding some fertilizer high in nitrogen (be sure to get one that will not burn the plant--ask your local nursery for options). Even though nasturtiums prefer poorer soils, and therefore fertilizer is usually not recommended, a richer soil will encourage leaves more than flowering.

Nasturtium seeds are usually planted about 1/2 to 1 inch deep. If you planted them deeper, it will depend on how deep as to whether they'd have enough energy to grow to reach the surface. If you recently planted and you think that they might be too deep, try gently uncovering the seeds and replanting them to a shallower depth. Or, remove a layer of soil on top. Be very careful, in case any seeds have sprouted.

In mild climates, such as Zone 8b where you are, nasturtiums can be planted in late summer/early fall for fall/winter bloom. They can also be planted in spring. Nasturtiums like the cool (not cold) season, but some survive during the heat of summer if properly cared for. In some mild climates, they may even act as perennials.

Hi, Lantanya: We like to think of nasturtium as a mellow, Goldilocks type of plant -- it needs not too much water, not too little, but ju-u-u-u-st the right amount. Same thing for sun. Nasturtium is pretty durable and flexible but you do need to back off on the water and sun, wethinks. Water heavily, then wait until dry -- usually a week -- then repeat. But you can tell if your plants need it a little sooner just by the fact that their leaves look wilt-y. Give them a little shade if you can, too. Just sounds like maybe they are getting extremified on a couple of fronts somewhat and need to have their care sort of mellowed out a little. Blooms take at least a month on a healthy plant, so once yours gets rejuvenated, it's anybody's guess -- and unfortunately we're not anybody. Good luck, have fun, and thanks for writing!

Nasturtiums do their best flowering in full sun, but they will tolerate partial shade. They prefer a light, sandy soil. If you give them rich, fertile soil and fertilizers, you'll get lush leaves at the expense of blooms. Are you watering correctly? Water them deeply until overflowering and then let them get bone dry, and then water deeply again. Usually, watering is once a week.

Are you watering correctly? Water them deeply until overflowering and then let them get bone dry, and then water deeply again. Usually, watering is once a week.

Hi, itzu: You don't need to clip a little to promote blooms, but you might want to lightly prune the plants regularly to prevent overspreading and to focus growth where you want it and closer to the roots. We're partial to a little nip now and then ourselves, if you know what we mean.

Nasturtiums love cooler weather. They grow like crazy in the summer in Fairbanks, Alaska (Zone 1b/2a), and they're common throughout much of Canada and the northern areas of the United States. I see no reason why you couldn't grow them anywhere in Michigan.

Nasturtium is a great ground cover, however, it's one to pick for a location that gets full sun. As a reference point, you might this list of ground covers for sun versus shade useful: http://www.thompson-morgan.com/plants-for-groundcover

If the plants are spindly, it's often because there has been insufficient light or crowding. This sometimes happens when seeds are planted to early. You could try to add more soil to shore up the seedlings. Otherwise, you might want to seed some more--and experiment.

Definitely transplant them. I would use a planter or pot that is at least 6-8 inches deep to give the roots plenty of room. Did your plants start from one seed or more than one? If more than one seed, each plant should be spaced about 8 inches apart in moderately sandy soil--like 30% sand, 60% dirt or topsoil (FYI: they flower better in somewhat poor soil--the nice, rich, dark soil just gives you lots of leaves). It sounds like you have the "viney" type instead of the "bushy" type-it does not need to climb; just let the vines drape/flow downward over the pot/planter. Soil should be moist when you first transplant but then let it get a little dry before other waterings. They tend to do a little better in cooler climates but they will grow almost anywhere. They do like full sun-it's about the only thing you really have to make sure they get to thrive; otherwise they pretty much take care of themselves. Good luck; these are fun flowers to grow.

I don't know if nasturtiums will grow hydroponically. However, I am commencing an experiment to grow them in hydroculture. I grow my potplants in clay pebbles and water, instead of soil. The clay pebbles are inert, so I feed the plants with liquid nutrient. So far i am successfully growing Hoya, Syngonium, Mint, Ribbon Plant. I am also experimenting with parsley. I live in a sub-tropical coastal location in Queensland, Australia. Nasturtiums grow well in gardens around here, and self-seed easily.

I am successfully growing Nasturtiums in baskets in Trinidad. They trail downwards and have the most beautifully scented flowers. I live in a rain forest area so it is pretty hot. I am going to try growing them as ground cover next.

If the nasturtium seed is "pure" and not a hybrid seed, then you should be able to save the seeds by color. If you save the seed of the red one, the "child" should come out the same color as the parent. Good luck!

you wont be able to see the color until it blooms

Dear Chuckloves, Where is this nasturtiam field? I live in LA and would love, love, love to see it!

No worries. According to the ASPCA, nasturtium is non-toxic to dogs and cats. 

It's true that nasturtiums don't need a lot of fertility, but we've planted them among our vegetables and they are easy growers so I wouldn't worry much about them! Nasturtiums are great companion plants that can be seeded between cabbages, radishes, tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, and beans to deter aphids. Try to find the variety with yellow flowers. Plant after all danger of frost has passed.

Nasturtiums are indeed colorful; they are usually orange, yellow, or red. Their flowers bloom all summer. Both the leaves and the flowers are edible and taste like a mild radish.

Nasturtium has medicinal qualities and known to help fight bacterial infections and certain viruses. However, eating nasturtiums can also have negative side effects. We are not health professionals so you'll want to consult with your health care provider first.  Google "eating nasturtiums health" and you'll see there's a lot of information about this topic.

When you plant nasturtium near the coop area the chickens will eat the leaves and flowers, which helps rid them of any internal parasites.

Nasturiums need direct sun to thrive so they are really meant to be an outdoor plant.

You can certainly try saving them. Sometimes, nasturtium seeds that have fallen from a plant will make it through the winter to sprout in spring, with no human intervention, so if yours have experienced just a few frosts, and the seed coat is intact, they may indeed be OK. There are no guarantees, of course. (Note that if the original nasturtiums were hybrids, then the offspring may not be like the parent plants.)

Often, mature seeds are found on the ground, after they've fallen off the plant. Green or brown, they may still be viable; in general, the bigger the nasturtium seed, the better chance it will sprout. Collect the seeds, place them on newspaper in a warm place with good air circulation for a few weeks to dry; any greenish seeds will turn brown. Discard any seeds that develop mold. Then, place the dried seeds in an airtight jar, label and seal, and store in a dark, cool place until spring, when you can plant them after frost and see if they come up. (Just before planting, you might want to soak the seeds in water overnight to encourage germination. This softens the hard seed coat.)

Good luck!

Yes, you can pick the green seeds. Pick the largest seeds for better germination in the spring. Put the seeds on a paper towel to dry. As the seeds dry they turn tan or brown. When dry put them in an airtight container or paper envelope and store in a cool dark place.

No, in zones with freezing temperatures such as MA, wait until after the frost; in the mild southern climates, they can be planted in the fall for “winter” blooming.

Use the spacing suggested above--or on your seed packet to determine the size you want. Just make sure the container has drainage holes and use a soilless media for container growing. We like 50% peat and 50% perlite.

In mild climates, such as Zone 10 where you are, nasturtiums can be planted in late summer/early fall for fall/winter bloom. They can also be planted in spring. Nasturtiums like the cool (not cold) season, but some survive during the heat of summer if properly cared for. In some mild climates, they may even act as perennials.

When collecting seed, keep in mind that if the seeds are from hybrid varieties, the seeds themselves may not produce plants that have the same features as the parents. If you'd like the same results each year, select an heirloom or non-hybrid variety.

Hi, Robert, Yes, save the nasturtium chick-pea-size seeds and replant in the spring! Let them dry out on the vine; they'll fall off. Collect them, brush off the soil, dry them, and store them in a paper envelope in a cool and dark place.

You can plant nasturtium seeds from spring through fall throughout Florida--and year-round in South Florida.

Yes, the entire plant is edible…leaves, flowers, stems, seeds, and all.

Yes, you can save the nasturtium chick-pea-size seeds. Let them dry out on the vine; they'll fall off. Collect them, brush off the soil, dry them, and store them in a paper envelope in a cool and dark place.
You can grow them indoors, I suppose, but they need a LOT of direct sun or grow lights. You will probably get leaves but the light is needed for blooms. Try it out and see how it goes!

Yes, you are watering too much.  They like it dry.  Wait until the top few inches of soil are dry by inserting your finger into the soil, and then water. Repeat!

Hmm.  Make sure they get plenty of air circulation and aren't being covered in mulch.  They love the sun, though not extreme heat. Are you watering correctly? Water them deeply until it's overflowering and then let them get bone dry, and then water deeply again. Usually, watering is once a week.

Generally, nasturtiums do their best flowering in full sun, but they will tolerate partial shade. They prefer a light, sandy soil. If you give them rich, fertile soil and fertilizers, you'll get lush leaves at the expense of blooms. It's better to ignore nasturiums; they hate TLC!

Nasturtiums do prefer poor, sandy soil. Overly rich soil deters flowering. Also, make sure you didn't purchase a dwarf variety if you want bigger blooms.

Some people eat the pods (though not many). if you wish to harvest the seeds, prune the immature green seed pods from the plant. Nasturtium seed develop roughly four months after the plant germinates. 

Hi, the problem is that you put them in potting soil. The less nutrients available, the more flowers nasturtiums will produce. Seems counterintuitive, but it works! The leaves are great in salads. Good luck. I'm off to find some gravelly dirt to pot my own in now.

I planted the Alaska Mix. I also used Miracle Grow potting soil, it took some time for me to get flowers, now I have tons! Lots & lots of water, I have 2 2' long planters & they take approximately 1.5 gallons of water each 2x a day if its hot

Nasturtium thrive with neglect so you might be surprised how well it does. As you mentioned, we direct seed nasturtium as they grow quickly and do not like to be transplanted. If you do chose to transplant, just take care that you do not disturb the root system in the transplant process. Do this on a cloudy day and explose the roots as little as possible. If you have a large variety, they enjoy a stake or trellis to climb; smaller varieties do not need it.

You could be right. Keep nasturtium soil relatively dry. Make sure you have well-drained soil. Check under the leaves to see if there are insects. If so, spray insecticidal soap to the underside.

It's not too late to plant seeds. It takes about 10 days for the seeds to germinate. Dwarf cultivars that grow bushy plants include 'Strawberries and Cream' (pale yellow flowers), 'Peach Melba' (creamy flowers), and 'Whirlybird' mix (variety of colors).

Many flowering plants will start producing a lot of flowers if they aren't getting enough sun. You probably need to move it back to a sunnier spot.

yes you can. they do not have a strong and evasive root system. however in order to get good tomatoes the soil must be well fertilize and full of vitamins. this may conflict with the nasturtium since it relies on poor soil conditions. if your growing tomatoes for ornamental reasons.... then its a good idea. but don't take my word for it. test it out. not all facts are 100% true 100% of the time.

I always just picked the seeds up from the ground in the fall. After the frost hits, pull out the plant and you will see seeds that look like chick peas. Collect them, leaving them to dry in an open container over the winter. I always kept them inside the house. In the spring, plant them and enjoy the blooms again.

Thanks for sharing! Yes, nasturtiums are edible flowers! The flowers and leaves are peppery flavored like watercress and are used in salads and as a garnish.

Please share how much of each ingredient you use! Want to try! Thanks

You can plant the seeds from spring through fall throughout Florida, year-round in South Florida. Nasturtiums are easy to grow where you live!

When plants of the tall type are about 7 inches tall, place a stake or trellis near them for support. It is not necessary to stake or trellis the dwarf type.

In your area, nasturtiums do best blooming in spring/early summer. Sow mid-March or earlier in pots. Or, you could also sow in late summer for fall bloom.

You want to grab those seeds when they are still green and let them dry on a baking sheet in a cool dark place for a week. Once they are hard, you can store them for next year.

In Houston, nasturtiums do best in the cooler months. You can plant them in the early fall, in which case they might bloom later in the fall before a frost stops them; the plants may even survive through the winter if it is an especially mild one. You can also plant in early spring after the last expected spring frost date. They will bloom until the hot weather starts; peak bloom is usually about May into June. They do not like high heat. When summer hits, move the containers to deep shade, and keep up with the watering. The plants may perk up again in fall to give you another floral display. (Please note: We'd recommend sowing nasturtium seeds about 1/2 inch deep.) Hope this helps!

Some thoughts: They grow in shade but not quite as well as full sun; too much shade limits their blossoms. Also, make sure you are not using any fertilizer. They thrive on neglect--poor, lean soil and spare watering.

The Empress of India is a non-trailing annual and quite compact (only 1 foot high).

You'll have to check with your local garden center, but nasturtiums do not fare well when transplanted; use peat pots and plant these directly in the soil. Nasturtiums are one of the easiest flowers to grow from seed. They prefer full sun. They are not choosy about their soil, though they prefer a light, sandy soil. Don't spoil them with rich, fertile soil and fertilizers as this will only result in lush foliage and few blooms.

The bumps could be insect damage. Spray with a horticultural oil or insecticidal soap spray.

Following spacing on packet. As the seedlings grow: If the plants are crowded then thin them out to about 12 inches apart.

Nasturiums are an annual so they need to be seeded each spring. However, if you let them go to seed, they may self-seed in the fall and come up the following year on their own.

If it's not meant to be a pale yellow variety, then it may be the weather. This flower enjoys cool soil. If the ground is too hot, forget it. Plant in a shady spot that gets some morning sun and water consistently.

Yellow leaves are a sign of over watering. Nasturtiums prefer really dry soil, even in the summer months! Make sure that the soil is well-drained. Thank you for your interest in the Old Farmer's Almanac and our Web site.

If nasturtiums are showing signs of stress, such as wilted leaves, then it may be a simple fix of giving them more water. Nasturtiums love their water. Thank you for your interest in the Old Farmer's Almanac and our Web site.

Nasturtiums should grow on their own. If you feel they need help, using small stick to "direct" them is OK. Thank you for your interest in the Old Farmer's Almanac and our Web site.

For bushy, you'd want a dwarf variety. If you have the climbing variety, they're going to spread. Just trim with scissors or clippers. You do not need to trim at a node or any special place. They are big growers. Did you know: They are edible flowers! If you didn't use chemicals, add to salads!

hi, you can get many nasturtium seeds via ebay seller around the world and they are cheap. means you must have an ebay account. otherwise search from google.