How to Grow Broccoli: Planting, Growing & Harvesting Tips

The bunnies are tough characters, for sure. Here are our best ideas https://www.almanac.com/pest/rabbits

Note the fencing ideas in particular.

We hope this helps!

Most broccoli plants produce heads in cool weather; only a few produce in temps over 85F. Additionally, the folks at the Missouri Cooperative Extension Service suggest that broccoli that is planted too late in the spring will experience heat stress and flower early. Transplanting an oversized transplant will often result in premature flowering. Other causes of early flowering include nitrogen stress (too little) or overhardening.

Side shoots should begin to form right away, so if the plant looks healthy otherwise, it's likely that the heat has stymied their formation. Broccoli is a cool-season crop, after all. Once temps cool off, it's possible that the plants will kick back into gear and begin to form side shoots, but it might also be the case that they're done for the season.

I live in Ontario Canada and have the same problem . Leaves only after 8 weeks and taller than tomato plants . I had to pull them out so tomatoes get their share of the sun . First time trying to grow Broccoli . I also planted from seed .

Not all plants, even those in the same family, grow at the same pace. What's more, cauliflower has special needs. See here for more information: https://www.almanac.com/plant/cauliflower

If your broccoli doesn't have any main "head," there are a few possibilities. Often, it's related to timing and temperature. Broccoli likes to be kept cool. It's started in the spring and will bolt and flower in extreme heat. Or, is it too cold? If broccoli has days near freezing temperatures for several days or a cold snap, this is an issue and causes "buttoning" (tiny, immature heads).

Another reason for lack of heading is a lack of nutrients or water. Is your soil nutrient-rich? Spread some some nitrogen such as fish emulsion. Another issue can be watering. Water the broccoli plants deeply and infrequently, about 1 to 2 inches of water per week.

Read the information above, Franciele. Broccoli likes cool weather. Check your frost date here http://www.almanac.com/tool/frost-dates-calculator, and consider that the date is an average, not an absolute. Conditions in different parts of Massachusetts (as anywhere) can vary widely. As for starting 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost, that's the idea, but it offers flexibility (two weeks' worth or so). While we do not write seed packet directions, that time range is suggested to give the grower a wide window of opportunity to get seed started. Ideally, you should have started the seeds six to eight weeks before the first week of May. Watch your plants' progress; it may be that they will be ready to transplant before June. If this doesn't work out to your satisfaction, buy some seedlings and plan differently next year—or try to get a fall broccoli crop.

Yes, cut it off and throw it in the compost heap. It sounds past its prime and on its way to making seed.

No, leaf removal does not help growth In fact, it's quite the opposite. Until the broccoli head is harvested, do not remove the leaves because this is the way the broccoli feeds itself and grows.  If you like eating the leaves (which are fully edible), harvest once the main head is gone. This may affect growth of side sprouts, but it's generally fine.

If your main head shows signs of beginning to flower, harvest it immediately, taking at least 6 inches from the stem; cut at a slant. Ideally, you should harvest the head before those buds open, because it will be a little tougher and may not be as tasty, but they are still edible, especially if just a few of the flower buds have started to open.

The plant may also, as you have found, produce side shoots that will continue to develop after the main head is harvested. These will not develop into large heads, but are useful to harvest as florets. When they are of a decent size, harvest them to encourage more to develop. Eventually, after several weeks, the plant will stop producing. For more tips on harvesting, check the "Harvest/Storage" section in the above article. Hope this helps!

Hi Floyd, it is best to harvest broccoli when  the buds of the head are firm and tight before the heads flower. 

If the pant is no longer producing, there is no reason to leave it in the ground. Depending on where you are (and so how much more growing season you might have), you might be able to get a lettuce/greens crop in its place before frost hits.

Sue, the best organic way that we know of to get rid of these pests is to pick them off by hand. Look all over the leaves; pick of the loopers and brush off any eggs. Drown the larvae in soapy water.

Not the most fun project but get out there and show them who's boss! Good luck!

If you did not pull out your plants in the fall, the snow that fell this winter likely acted as insulation for your broccoli plants. Many crops can survive under snow such as brussels sprouts, carrots, turnips, and cauliflower to name a few.

For Alabama, looks like one would plant broccoli in February/March for an early summer crop, or July/August for a late fall crop -- fall planting seems to be preferred. For best times, contact your county's Cooperative Extension (see http://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-serv... ). If the plants are maturing in warm weather, you might provide shade cloth during part of the day, and keep the soil moist (but not soggy). For clay soils, test the soil pH and adjust as necessary so that it is between 6.0 and 7.0; a few weeks to months before planting (for example, as soon as soil can be worked in spring without compacting it, or in fall before spring planting), build the soil structure by adding organic matter, such as composted manure; use organic mulch to keep the soil from compacting and to keep it cool.

Broccoli leaves can be eaten and prepared in the same way as kale, spinach, or other greens. Eat them raw, saute, or even blend them into a smoothie. Enjoy!

It all depends on the variety and growing conditions. An average plant can get 2 to 3 feet tall and about  8 to 12 inches wide at the crown.

Hi Sarah,

Most varieties have side-shoots that will continue to develop after the main head is harvested. You can harvest from one plant for many weeks if the weather doesn't turn too cold for the plant to grow. After a killing frost you can pull the stalks. And yes, you can eat the leaves.

Be sure that your broccoli is in full sunlight. Also, broccoli does best between temperatures of about 40 and 70 degrees F. Warmer temperatures may deter head formation; it might possibly pick up when the weather cools (although broccoli doesn't survive much below 25F). Otherwise, it could be that they got too much nitrogen, which deters flowering and head formation, but encourages leaf growth. As you wait to see if your broccoli perks up in cooler weather, you might also try a fall planting of broccoli. Some varieties that work nicely in Texas are 'Green Comet' and 'Bonanza.' Around Austin, it looks like for a spring planting, it might be best to plant transplants out in the garden in mid-February through early March, so that the plants don't mature during the heat of summer (which can make it bolt or have other troubles).

There is also a phenomenon called "blindness" which can occur with broccoli, in that it does not develop a terminal bud--there is just a nub in the center; this means that the plant will not form a head, just lots of leaves. It is thought that blindness may occur if the plant was exposed to cold temperatures when young (especially during shorter daylengths), the central bud was damaged by insects etc., or possibly the young plants experienced a drought.

Do you mean Broccolini, aka baby broccoli? If so, this might help:

http://agsyst.wsu.edu/Broccolini.html

Harvest when buds have matured but have not yet opened or developed color. Harvest the main head early to encourage side shoots. Keep a close eye on the buds, as the plant can bolt quickly.

Is this a heading broccoli, broccoli raab, sprouting broccoli, or Chinese broccoli? What country/location are you in?

Sometimes too much nitrogen will promote leave growth at the expense of flowering/floret formation. Broccoli, a cool-season crop, also usually requires a period of cold to encourage bud formation; some cultivars are more heat tolerant.

On average, broccoli will mature between 60 and 120 days, depending on cultivar and conditions. It sounds like yours has gone beyond that point. However, if you are growing sprouting broccoli, some of those varieties may take as much as 220 days to mature. In this case, wait a little longer.

If you are growing regular heading broccoli, you might harvest the tender leaves and start over again, but first, just to be sure, you might ask someone from a local nursery what is normal for your area. If you live in the United States, you can also check your county's Cooperative Extension service:

http://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-serv...

Planted broccoli and collard greens next to each other which is which? One is darker but definitely able to cook collards if lighter one is collards?

Hi, Sweet: If your broccoli has not produced anything in 6 months, it is likely not going to, so you should harvest the leaves and get on with something else. Do a soil test to make sure that everything is in balance and that there is not an overabundance of nitrogen. Your fail could also have come from overheating. Good luck!

Broccoli plants can take a long time to form florets and they are a cold weather crop. The plants don't like the heat. Most varieties take 60  to 70 days to grow a head and the plants may be as tall as 3 feet. It's better to leave the leaves on the plant and not cut them off. If by a chance you don't get florets on your plant you can eat the broccoli leaves. Try planting broccoli in late summer for a fall harvest.

Correction - it has not yet bolted. The buds are turning yellow, so I guess that means it is about to bolt?

Hi Kaela,

Broccoli is a cool weather crop. You can put transplants out in the garden in late May or early June for a harvest before the weather gets too hot. The seeds should be started indoors about 7 to 8 weeks prior to transplanting outdoors. Seeds can also be planted outdoors about 2 weeks before your last frost date. See our planting by the Moon's phase chart at www.almanac.com/content/planting-moons-phase-region-3.

We are not sure why some of your seedlings didn't grow well. We recommend starting broccoli seeds in a soilless potting mix. At the first sign of growth move the containers into a sunny location. The seedlings need lots of light. They grow best when the temp. is 60 to 65 degrees during the day and about 10 degrees cooler at nigh.

It's a bit tricky to start broccoli from seed. After the seeds germinate, place the containers in a sunny area or under lights in a spot where the temperature is between 60° to 65°F. Keep the soil moist but not wet.

Hi, just wanted to tell you I grow my broccoli in the little jiffy pods green houses, in a big green house. Then repot, still in an open greenhouse. When they get big enough to outgrow the pot I plant in the ground and water every day. Hope this helps. ..happy growing!

Oh, dear.

This could be aphids, or it could be something more serious like sooty mold infection that inhibits photosynthesis (thus, the lime color). Here is more detail: http://cals.arizona.edu/crop/public/docs/Azbroccoli.pdf

You might find some advice here: http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/pests/pdf/hgic2202.pdf

Our advice would be to harvest what might be edible.

And, we would ask, do you rotate your crops? Moving plants around, not growing in the same spot year after year, is one of the easiest/best ways to avoid plant pests and disease.

Best wishes—

Hi, Enlal: There could be any number of reasons. Take a look at the planting and care tips above to see if you did or didn't do something that affected your seeds' success. That's the best way to start. Good luck!

Why don't you just look a question or two down--and there is your answer. Jeez. It's a free page and up to the community to comment. I see a lot of contributions actually. Why don't you make one?

Small broccoli heads are a common problem, we're afraid. 

Broccoli is a cool weather crop. Warm weather makes the plant flower (or bolt). However, you do need 55 to 60 days of cool weather for the plant to mature. Specifically, the temperatures need to be between 65 and 80 degrees—no cooler, no warmer. Yes, broccoli is very very picky with a narrow window for planting! (See our planting chart for dates that fit your area.)

When you plant broccoli, it's great that you added lots of organic matter. We might advise mixing in some fertilizer that's heavier on the nitrogen; this feeds a fast-growing head. It sounds as if you were supplying a constant stream of water for moist soil--also important.

Broccoli in the garden will never match what's in the grocery store, though it tastes much better.

At this point, you can cut the flowers off and the main head and see if your plant will grow some bite-size side heads.

We're impressed by your diligence. Gardening is a never-ending learning curve. If we may, we'd suggest an easier plant next year? See this article:

http://www.almanac.com/vegetable-garden-planning-for-begi...

Hello! I work on a vegetable farm in williamsville il. We have planted and produced broccoli at a huge rate this year. I'm telling you this because we've had success due to a lot of research of different strains. The ph In the soil has to be right. At my farm we use a rich mushroom compost that has been composting for years. And give a lot of space in rows when planted. Certain bugs in the soil could also be a problem. Take notes of the things you notice and research bugs you see. Good luck and if you have any questions feel free to ask

There's no reason you can't use a greenhouse, but keep in mind that broccoli thrives in cool weather.

Hi, Todd: You may have a problem or two, but we don't think that impatience is one of them. It's hard to tell what is going on here without knowing where you are, what variety you planted, and so forth, but it's probably time to think about another planting for fall. Your plants may have gotten too hot, but the fact that your first little floret was yellow from the get-go tells us that this may be a nitrogen deficiency and not just that your plant is going to seed. Make sure that your soil is neutral to slightly acidic, with plenty of nitrogen and not too much phosphorus. Use the Frost Dates calculator under Gardening above to get the probable date of your first frost, then count backward 100 days from then to plant. With the right soil, we think you'll do better in the coolness.

Depending on the variety you have, and whether you planted by seeds or transplants, it might just be that they aren't ready to form the heads yet. Some take more than 10 or 12 weeks.

Another possibility is that the plants are getting too much nitrogen, which encourages leaf growth over flowers (the heads). Depending on the formula of Miracle Gro that you are using, it tends to have higher nitrogen than phosphorus or potassium. Broccoli is a heavy feeder, but it's best to use a balanced organic or slow-release fertilizer if you are applying it every few weeks. Otherwise, too much nitrogen may result in hollow stems and may discourage heading. If you choose a fertilizer high in nitrogen, you might try only applying it about 3 or 4 weeks after transplanting, a smaller amount when the heads are just developing, and then after you harvest the main head (to encourage small side shoots to grow, which you can also harvest). (Before planting, the soil should be amended with composted manure or similar to provide rich nutrients.)

Hot temperatures may also prevent heads to develop, or encourage the plant to bolt (form a flower stalk immediately instead of first developing compact heads).

One thing about Broccoli is that the leaves are great to eat as well. So even if you aren't getting heads, don't fret because the leaves are excellent. Look online for lots of ideas on how to prepare. We used them msinly for blended drinks and sautéed/stir fried.

Same happened to us this year we left them and have small crowns started.

It sounds like your broccoli bolted (developed a flower stalk and went to seed). This happens when temperatures are too warm, or temperatures fluctuate from quite cool for a while to warm. Broccoli likes consistently cool weather (about 65 to 75 degrees F ideal), and in many areas is best planted in early spring or late fall. Bolting can also happen if the plant is under stress, such as diseases or insects, or weeds. To help prevent premature bolting, you can select slow-bolting varieties, plant at a good time for your area (if you live in the U.S., see your local Cooperative Extension for best times: http://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-serv..., keep plants watered and stress-free, and keep the soil cool by providing a thick layer of mulch.

We tend to use blood meal (high nitrogen) as a side dressing; blood meal won't substitute good soil that's mixed with lots of organic material. We side dress with one cup for every 10 square feet of growing area. Side dress 4 weeks after transplanting/thinning; Apply another half cup when the broccoli head is the size of a quarter; side dress a third time after the main head is harvested for continued side-shoot development. Place the fertilizer 6 inches to the side of the plant and irrigate it into the soil.

Unlikely I tried in the phillipines and it bolted.

We'll try to help. It's very early spring do we're wondering if you are tranplanting too early but it all depends on where you live. Broccoli is temperature sensitive.  The ideal temperature for broccoli is between 65 and 80 degrees.  If it drops below 40 degrees, you'll have issues. You can check your local planting dates for both starting seeds indoors and setting plants in the ground here:

https://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-calendar

Mildred, Floating row covers are also called "gardening fabric." You can find examples on garden seed sites such as www.Burpee.com and www.gardeners.com.  When you get to their web sites, just type in "floating row covers." Hope this helps.

Hello Mildred, You can go to the web sites suggested and request their catalogs. Hope this helps. Kevin

Bought it at Tractor Supply Company yesterday. Great price. $10 8x20.

Thanks for asking. We've clarified the text on this page. Plant each seed at a depth of 1/2 inch to 1 inch. Within a row, the spacing is 12 to 24 inches apart with 36 inches between each row. If you overseed, you'll just want to thin the seedlings so that they're no closer than 12 inches apart.

The lanky growth on the broccoli is called buttoning the plant was stressed somehow when it was a seedling. In cooler climates it is due to freezing. When I gardened in Florida (coastal zone 10) it was normally caused by dryness or too much heat.

Broccoli is one of those plants that can tolerate a light freeze if it's a short duration. If the dark green turns to black, than they have been killed, but if not, they are fine to eat. Though you can't always predict the weather, cover your plants if a frost or freeze is expected so that you can protect them.

Cole crops such as broccoli, especially plants that are not disease resistant, are commonly affected by several problems. It’s not possible to know exactly what has afflicted your plants but here is some information.

• Seeds and young transplants can be affected by the soil-borne fungus Pythium. Control recommendations include planting in raised beds, ensuring good drainage, and planting in commercial potting soil, not “earth," which is to say garden soil.

• Fusarium yellow, which has a yellow-greenish tint, can live in the soil for years without a host plant. When the opportunity presents itself, the disease enters through the plants' roots as well as any injuries caused by insects or transplanting.

By planting disease-resistant varieties and rotating your crops, you can help your plants to avoid these and other diseases and so improve your harvest.

We hope this helps!

This is very normal--and a good sign. Fresh-looking broccoli heads should be compact and dark green with some purple tinge. Obviously, it depends on the variety, but there is nothing wrong with this.

Floating rows are simply lightweight fabric covers that you drape over your plants. Here is a good article with pictures on the Burpee seed site: http://www.burpee.com/gardening-supplies/frost-protection...

Broccoli isn't the best veggie for seed-saving but you can do it. First, note that you can't have any other crops from the Brassica oleracea family within a mile or they'll cross-pollinate and it won't be pure broccoli. Also, you want to seed save from heirloom veggies versus hybrids. Do not harvest heads on broccoli plants that you wish to save for seed. Carefully dig the plants and pot them in sand. Store plants between 32-40° F. Plant back out in early spring and allow to bolt. Harvest seed pods when dry and clean by hand. See more on Seed Saving: http://www.almanac.com/content/quick-seed-saving-guide-be...

Broccoli prefers cool temperatures and an even supply of water to produce heads.Hot temperatures and/or drought can cause broccoli to stop producing heads. Overcrowding and poor soil can also cause problems. Leave the plants in the soil and see if the cooler weather will help the broccoli to set heads.

If you have slugs you can try spreading crushed egg shells around your plants. Go to almanac.com/content/slugs to see more tips about getting rid of slugs.

Slug them back with beer!! If you put beer in a shallow dish or lid and place it around your garden the slugs will go for it rather than your plants..I used this trick to keep them off my Tomatoes that I grew on my deck in straw bales!

Start the seedlings indoors in October and plant outside in November. Broccoli likes cool weather. You'll be able to harvest until it gets hot and the broccoli goes to seed.

Broccoli is usually grown as an annual and started new each spring. You can leave your plants in the ground after you pick the main crown and harvest small shoots that grow from the sides of the stems. In late fall remove the plants.

Yes, you need to pull the plants. Brocolli, a cool-weather plant, is a popular fall crop in most regions if you wish to try again!

Here is a good reference page on food safety: http://www.foodsafety.gov/blog/farmers_market.html

Hi, Pam, Here are tips on how to cut broccoli from our organic gardening blogger, Celeste: http://www.almanac.com/blog/celestes-garden/broccoli

I got three heads off of two plants this year and two heads off of the other three. Was a great year here in Washington State for Broccoli.

If the temperature is too warm, the broccoli will not produce heads. Broccoli is a cool-weather crop grown in spring and fall.

Broccoli is a cool season plant. Local (to you!) sources suggest that the best growing time in your area is fall, but some of the sources seem to have conflicting information. Some say start in winter for spring planting. Just as important, though, is the soil. Cole crops like a pH betw 6 .0 and 7.0 (even 7.5); rich, organic compost; plentiful, consistent moisture; and some say a shot of nitrogen at planting (but not too much; that could cause hollow stems). Finally, consider where it is planted in terms of crop rotation: Broccoli and other cole crops should not be planted in the same location more than once every three or four years. Hope this helps—

A layer of 2 to 4 inches of mulch will help cool the soil (about 4 to 6 degrees cooler). However, you need to harvest broccoli before the flowers open or show yellow. The mulch will help slow down the heat but the broccoli will keep maturing!

It sounds like they "bolted". The broccoli heads/florets you eat are the compacted flower buds. Usually you can get the head to form and have time to harvest the main head before they open up (not as tightly clumped) then shoot up and open yellow flowers. But, sometimes if the plant is stressed due to high temp or low water they "bolt" right up to flower. You can cut this portion off (same as harvesting main head) and the plant should begin to form side shoot heads that will be smaller but edible nontheless.

My broccoli can get quite tall before the head starts to form. Even knee-high. It can take 60 to 70 days for some varieties. If you gently push the little leaves away in the centre, can you see florets forming? It may just take some time. If the heads do not form, it's usually due to extreme temperature--usually because it's too hot. This cool-weather veggies does not like heat. Cold shock at seeding can happen, too.

After you get the true leaves (within a week or so), the cotyledons will start to yellow. When they start to yellow, begin fertilizing seedlings by applying a WEAK fertilizer solution each time you water. (Be careful not to "burn" with too much fertilizer.)

Reasons for long stems: temps too warm (broccoli likes it 10 degrees cooler than most seedlings), not enough direct sunlight, too much nitrogen in soil. Yes, when you plant, cover the roots and stem with supplemental top soil; dissipate the nitrogen (use fertilizer high in phosphorous and low in nitrogen). Stake the long stem if needed.

Planting zone definitions are guides--good ones, but they are not infallible. Any given spot could be a micro-climate that varies from typical zonal characteristics and expectations. Broccoli is pretty hardy but, yes, it is finicky. Cold tolerance depends on conditioning. If your plants had been in warmer conditions before transplanting and the temp drops well below freezing, it is very likely you would lose them. If you broccoli plants had experienced relatively cold weather, it is likely that they would survive. Sometimes it is wise to err on the side of caution. You might do well to bring the containers inside, but into a space/area that mimics recent temp and light conditions. That is, don't bring them into the high heat and lamp light of the house. Perhaps a porch?? Or you could cover the plants. Either way, return them outside or uncover them during the day. We hope this helps.

It's not just about the weather. Broccoli needs soil with a pH range of 6–7. It is a heavy feeder, so thrives where the soil is rich in aged manure or rich compost—or both. When planted and while growing it can benefit from a general garden fertilizer, such as 10-30-10, with more nitrogen after harvesting. And, if you are not practicing appropriate crop rotation, it may fail to thrive because of whatever grew in the spot before. For specific assistance, contact your local extension service. We hope this helps.

It's hard to know exactly what went wrong with your broccoli crop, but consider this: • Did you amend the soil to the appropriate pH: 6.0-6.5? • Did you apply potassium and nitrogen before planting and then again to seven weeks after the transplants (or seedings) got established? • Did you keep the plants well watered and free from stress—such as diseases, weeds, and insects? • Did you plant too early in spring? The larger that plants are when exposed to a late-season cold period, the higher is the likelihood that they will bolt. • Did the plants experience a prolonged cold spell, followed by a favorable temps, then high temps? This sounds normal, but the variability may be the cause of bolting. There is no easy answer. Consider these risks and try again this year. OH, then there's this—if you see broccoli thriving in a garden in your area, tell your tale and ask the gardener what his/her secret is. The best advice is sometimes right next door. Good luck! Let us know how it goes.

Broccoli can be grown in areas with mild winters, not severe winters. This fits central Arkansas-- zone 7b. The timing depends on the variety of broccoli. For a standard type of broccoli, you would normally start harvesting around October but may be able to stretch to January. For the Northern European varieties of broccoli, you can overwinter. Normally, you'd start seeds early summer and transplants by later summer so the broccoli has time to grow large enough to grow by January and survive low temps. The plants will thrive down to 25 degrees F without covering. Some readers say that their broccoli did well down to 10 degrees. Single digits would kill.

You can leave your plants in the ground and keep harvesting the side shoots in the winter months. In the spring you need to plant new broccoli plants to get new buds and florets.

Please see our fall planting chart here and look for your frost dates. It lists broccoli and more! http://www.almanac.com/content/succession-gardening-plant...

I would add 3 to 5 inches of strait compost u can buy it by the cubic yard from any nursery or the city dump(its cheaper)till it in before spring planting do this every year until the soil will stay loos in summer

For southern Louisiana, August is a good time to seed broccoli in the ground. It's probably fine in September, too. Here's a good guide from LSU: http://www.lsuagcenter.com/NR/rdonlyres/46F14CF6-CA36-44E...

It may have been too hot for your broccoli. Or you may have added too much nitrogen to the soil which encourages leaf growth. Next time try a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer for better bloom growth.If you have room in your garden leave the plants and you may get some florets with cooler temps.

Click on the yellow "Gardening" tab to the left and you'll see planting links.

Broccoli isn't the best veggie for seed-saving but you can do it. First, note that you can't have any other crops from the Brassica oleracea family within a mile or they'll cross-pollinate and it won't be pure broccoli. Also, you want to seed save from heirloom veggies versus hybrids. Do not harvest heads on broccoli plants that you wish to save for seed. Carefully dig the plants and pot them in sand. Store plants between 32-40° F. Plant back out in early spring and allow to bolt. Harvest seed pods when dry and clean by hand. See more on Seed Saving: http://www.almanac.com/content/quick-seed-saving-guide-be...

Yep, it's done. Pull out the broccoli plant. It's gone to seed and will only start to taste bitter. Now you can sow a plant that fits the middle of summer in your area!

Yes. Floating row covers is an excellent way to prevent pests. Apply just after planting. You can keep over broccoli for the life of the plant since they do not require insects to pollinate them. However, it is important to secure the edges of the cover tightly (with landscaping pins).

Keep on watering and your broccoli should soon sprout! Thank you for your interest in the Old Farmer's Almanac and our Web site.

It seems as though your plant has gone to seed! Pick them off and hopefully smaller florets will grow in their place. Thank you for your interest in the Old Farmer's Almanac and our Web site.

Harvest while buds are starting to swell (match-like size) or if it begins to loosen from the plant itself. If you wait to long, they'll flower. Thank you for your interest in the Old Farmer's Almanac and our Web site.

It won't grow the same central head, but it will grow more, smaller heads to enjoy.

It's hard to say without a photo link, but does the broccoli head look like a small "button"? There are several possibilities for this: 1) Plants that remain too long in seed flats or have outgrown their container may produce "button" heads soon after planting. 2) Plants that have experienced a rapid change in temperature such as warm to cold nights without any "hardening off" and transition may button. 2) Dry spells, cold nights, or really erratic weather can affect the early broccoli growth. If you have this issue with the main head, your broccoli can still produce great side shoots after the main head is cut.

Your plant has gone to seed, however, you can cut off the head and let the plant develop new baby/side heads for eating!

It might be nitrogen deficiency--one of the more common problems as broccoli is a heavy nitrogen feeder. Add blood meal or a high nitrogen (but low phosphorus) fertilizer.

If you have premature flowering, this is usually due to very warm temperatures at heading time. Broccoli is a cool-weather plant.

Harvest the central head when the individual florets begin to enlarge and develop and before flowering begins. It depends on the variety, but central heads should grow to be at least 4 to 6 inches in diameter. Late side shoots may reach only 1 to 2 inches in diameter.

Broccoli seedlings will take 8 to 12 weeks from transplant until harvest time, depending on the variety. But look for the cues mentioned above! You really only have 1 week or so to do the first harvest. If you leave it too late, yellow flowers will form.

It depends on the variety, season, and fertilization but usually the head is as large as it's going to get when the individual buds of the broccoli are match-head size.

Keep planting! You can still put in broccoli, cauliflower, brussels sprouts and cucumber, all by seed. Consult your local nursery for more information about good crops for your specific area. Remember, you have miles to go before your first fall frost! Make sure you water adequately for the hot days. You can also start some winter crops in early August too, such as winter squash and pumpkins. Good luck!