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How to Grow Rhubarb: Plant, Care, & Harvest Tips for a Perennial Garden

Botanical Name
Rheum rhabarbarum
Plant Type
Vegetables
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Part Sun
Soil pH
Neutral to Slightly Alkaline
Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Hardiness Zone
3
4
5
6
7
8

Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Rhubarb

Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

What grows for 10 years or more, suffers from almost no pests, and is refreshingly easy to care for? It’s rhubarb! This perennial vegetable has tart-flavored ruby or green stems used to make pies, crumbles, cakes, jams, and sauces. Learn how to plant, grow, and pick rhubarb correctly.

About Rhubarb

Rhubarb originally came from Asia. It was brought to Europe in the 1600s and to America shortly thereafter. It thrives in areas with a cooler climate, making it popular in northern gardens. Rhubarb is easy to grow but needs a dormancy period to thrive and produce an abundance of huge stalks. Rhubarb does best where the average temperature falls below 40ºF (4°C) in the winter and below 75ºF (24°C) in the summer.

The stalks are the only edible part of the rhubarb plant. These have a rich, tart flavor when cooked. The leaves of the rhubarb plant are toxic. They contain an irritant called oxalic acid, so be sure that they are not ingested.

What’s lovely about rhubarb is that it’s a perennial: A healthy plant will remain productive for 10 years or more. For that reason, rhubarb should be planted in its own space in any corner of the garden where it can grow undisturbed. Rhubarb grows well in soil amended with plenty of well-rotted manure or compost; this has inspired some gardeners to plant it near their compost piles!

With its ruby or green stems and umbrella-like leaves, rhubarb also adds height and structure to your garden, along with a splash of gorgeous color that will return year in and year out. 

Read Next

Planting

Rhubarb grows best in full sun but will tolerate partial shade.

Choose a site with soil that is well-draining and fertile. Good drainage is essential, as rhubarb will rot if kept too wet. Mix compost, rotted manure, or anything high in organic matter into the soil. Rhubarb plants are heavy feeders and need this organic matter. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.

Rhubarb gets big! It can grow to 2 to 3 feet tall and wide. Make sure you choose a site where it won’t be crowded. 

When to Plant Rhubarb

  • Rhubarb can be planted in late fall or early spring.
    • Plant rhubarb crowns after dormancy have set in in the fall, and you’ll have rhubarb cropping in the spring!
    • In spring, plant crowns when the soil is workable, when the roots are still dormant, and before growth begins (or as plants are just beginning to leaf out). If you have a temperature gauge, soil temperature should be 50°F minimum.

Spacing for Rhubarb

How to Plant Rhubarb

  • Plant 1-year-old rhubarb crowns, which you can find at a garden center, or nursery, or order online. Plants will be sold as bare-rooted specimens or young plants already growing in pots, ready for transplanting. (Rhubarb can be grown from seed, but this is not recommended.)
  • Before planting, eliminate all perennial weeds in the planting site.
  • Dig large, bushel-basket-size holes.
  • Space rhubarb plants about 2 to 4 feet apart and 3 to 4 feet between rows.
  • Plant crowns so the eyes are about 2 inches below the soil surface with buds facing up.
  • Water well at the time of planting.

Check out this video to learn more about how to plant rhubarb:

Growing

Overcrowding is a common problem with rhubarb and can lead to subpar growth. Dig and split rhubarb roots every 3 to 4 years. Divide when plants are dormant in early spring (or late fall). Divisions should have at least one large bud on them. 

  • Mulch generously with a heavy layer of straw to retain moisture and discourage weeds.
  • Water your plant well and consistently. Rhubarb needs sufficient moisture, especially during the hot, dry summer days.
  • Remove seed stalks as soon as they appear, as they will only drain energy from the plant that could be used to produce stalks or roots.
  • Each spring, apply a light sprinkling of a fertilizer (10-10-10) when the ground is thawing or has just thawed. See your local frost dates.
  • In the fall, remove all plant debris. Once your ground freezes, it’s best to cover rhubarb with 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch, preferably well-rotted compost. By adding nitrogen to the soil, you’re preparing the rhubarb plants for a good spring season.

Rhubarb leaf

Types

These common varieties have attractive red stalks and excellent growers: 

  • ‘Canada Red’
  • ‘Crimson Red’
  • ‘MacDonald’
  • ‘Valentine’

In addition to the previous four, there is a reliable, green-stalked cultivar named:

  • ‘Victoria’

Harvesting

Do NOT harvest any stalks during the first growing season. Harvest sparingly in the second year. This allows your plants to become properly established.

  • After a plant’s third year, the harvest period (rhubarb season!) runs 8 to 10 weeks long, lasting through mid-summer.
  • Harvest stalks when they are 12 to 18 inches long and at least 3/4-inch in diameter. If the stalks become thin, stop harvesting; the plant’s food reserves are low.
  • Grab the base of the stalk and pull it away from the plant with a gentle twist. If this doesn’t work, you can cut the stalk at the base with a sharp knife. To prevent the spread of disease, be sure to sanitize the knife before cutting. Discard the leaves.
  • Always leave at least two stalks per plant to ensure continued production. You may have a bountiful harvest for well over 10 years without replacing your rhubarb plants.
  • It was once believed that the entire rhubarb plant became toxic as summer temperatures rose. This isn’t true, although summer-harvested stalks usually have a tougher texture than those picked in the spring. Nevertheless, after midsummer (July), it’s best to leave stalks on the plant to allow them to gather energy for next year’s growth.

How to Store Rhubarb

Cut the rhubarb stalks and refrigerate in a covered container. Or, tightly wrap stalks in plastic or aluminum foil and refrigerate. Rhubarb can be kept fresh in the refrigerator for a couple of weeks.

Cut rhubarb stalks into pieces, place them in a covered container or zip-type plastic bag, and put them in the freezer. Frozen rhubarb will last about a year.

Gardening Products

Pests/Diseases

Pests and diseases are rarely an issue with rhubarb, but they may be affected by the following problems.

Rhubarb Pests and Diseases
Pest/DiseaseTypeSymptomsControl/Prevention
Botrytis (gray mold)FungusVaries; yellow/ brown/gray spots with water-soaked margins on leaves/flowers; gray mold; buds remain closed; stem lesions; wilt/rot; scorched appearance (“fire”) in some plantsDestroy infected parts/severely infected plants (do not compost); remove plant debris regularly; disinfect tools; good air circulation/sunlight; avoid overhead watering; prevent plant stress/injury; weed; rotation
Fungal leaf spotFungusVaries; leaf spots on lower leaves enlarge and turn brown/black; fuzzy growth or pustules in lesions; disease progresses upward; leaves dieDestroy infected leaves/ severely infected plants (do not compost); remove plant debris regularly; disinfect tools; resistant varieties; good air circulation; avoid overhead watering
Phytophthora crown and root rotOomyceteLeaves discolor/ wilt; dieback; oozing cankers near base; reddish brown discoloration of inner bark/wood; roots rot; plants slow-growing/stunted/dieDestroy infected plants and surrounding soil (do
not compost); prune out branch cankers; remove plant debris regularly; plant resistant varieties; prevent plant stress/injury; provide good drainage/do not overwater
Rhubarb curculioInsectWeevil-like beetle that bores into stalks/crowns; notches on stalks/leaves; holes in stalks leak sap; plants wilt/decayHandpick adults (appear in mid-May); destroy nearby host plants (sunflowers, thistle, dock) in mid-summer (July)
Slugs/snailsMolluskIrregular holes in leaves; slimy secretion on plants/soil; young stems “disappear”Handpick; avoid thick bark mulch; use copper plant collars; avoid overhead watering; lay boards on soil in evening, in morning lift and dispose of pests in hot, soapy water; drown in deep container of 1/2 inch of beer or of sugar water and yeast sunk to ground level; apply 1-inch-wide strip of diatomaceous earth

Wit and Wisdom

Rhubarb has many other uses, from medicinal to cosmetic. See how to naturally lighten your hair with rhubarb. 

Recipes
Apple-Rhubarb Crunch
Rhubarb Chutney Recipe
Rhubarb Nut Bread
Strawberry-Rhubarb Pie
Blueberry-Rhubarb Jam
Rhubarb Upside-Down Cake

Cooking Notes

Check out our list of best rhubarb recipes to put your fresh rhubarb to good use! Plus, learn how to make a rhubarb tonic.

Vegetables
About The Author
Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann is the Executive Digital Editor of Almanac.com, the website companion of The Old Farmer's Almanac. She covers gardening, plants, pest control, soil composition, seasonal and moon c...
Read More from Catherine Boeckmann

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Comments

<span>Bjb</span> Wed, 05/14/2014 - 06:40
When you said not to use the rhubarb the first year, does that also apply to rhubarb that I split and transplanted last fall?
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Thu, 05/15/2014 - 09:32

Right: Wait one or two growing seasons before harvesting. This allows the plant to establish itself in its new spot so that its roots can develop enough to support the plant's needs. After a year or so, the plant will start to grow more vigorously, and it will be able to handle the harvest of some of its stalks more easily.

 <span>Mel Wiseman</span> Thu, 05/01/2014 - 13:46
This is the second year for my plants and they have a lot of seed like on top. Do I leave them on or take them off?
<span>Christa</span> Fri, 05/23/2014 - 21:02
My plant is two years old, has 5 stalks and a lot of seeds. What do I need to do with the seeds? Thank you for your help Christa
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Thu, 05/01/2014 - 16:23
The seed stalks and flowers should be cut out as soon as they start forming. They will take energy from the plant and you will get less rhubarb to harvest.
<span>Mel Wiseman</span> Wed, 05/07/2014 - 16:56
Thank you very much
<span>Plantlover69</span> Wed, 04/23/2014 - 15:36
I recently planted some rhubarb in my Green House and now I find myself a month later with no evidence of plant life. At this point I am very uneasy about whether or not my rhubarb is alive. It is 69 degrees(I know don't laugh) and I was wondering if this was ideal whether for rhubarb plants to be able to prosper.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Tue, 04/29/2014 - 08:28

I think you mentioned the answer! Rhubarb is a cool-season crop. It requires temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit to break dormancy and to stimulate growth. Rhubarb grows best in temperatures between 50 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

We normally advise growing rhubarb from one-year "crowns" in the ground as described above.

We're not clear how you are using a greenhouse. The only way we could seeing using a greenhouse is if you were forcing the rhubarb crowns to ripen quickly. In that case, you would still need to chill them to force dormancy.

 <span>Plantlover69</span> Fri, 05/02/2014 - 15:51
How should I go about chilling the rhubabr to force dormancy?
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Fri, 05/02/2014 - 16:50

Here is a great page on forcing rhubarb: http://www.rhubarbinfo.com/forcing