Planting and Growing Rhubarb

Botanical Name
Rheum rhabarbarum
Plant Type
Vegetables
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Partial Sun
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener
Almanac Guide to Herbs

What grows for 10 years or more, suffers from almost no pests, and is refreshingly easy to care for? It’s rhubarb! This perennial vegetable has tart-flavored ruby or green stems used to make pies, crumbles, cakes, jams, and sauces. Learn how to plant, grow, and pick rhubarb correctly.

Rhubarb is easy to grow but needs a dormancy period to thrive and produce an abundance of huge stalks. Rhubarb does best where the average temperature falls below 40ºF (4°C) in the winter and below 75ºF (24°C) in the summer.

What’s lovely about rhubarb is that it’s a perennial: A healthy plant will remain productive for 10 years or more. For that reason, rhubarb should be planted in its own space in any corner of the garden where it can grow undisturbed. Rhubarb grows well in soil amended with plenty of well-rotted manure or compost; this has inspired some gardeners to plant it near their compost piles!

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Planting

When to Plant Rhubarb

  • Rhubarb can be planted in late fall or early spring.
    • Plant rhubarb crowns after dormancy has set in in the fall, and you’ll have rhubarb cropping in the spring!
    • In spring, plant crowns when the soil is workable, when the roots are still dormant, and before growth begins (or as plants are just beginning to leaf out). If you have a temperature gauge, soil temperature should be 50°F minimum.

Spacing for Rhubarb

Where to Plant Rhubarb

Rhubarb grows best in full sun but will tolerate partial shade.

Choose a site with soil that is well-draining and fertile. Good drainage is essential, as rhubarb will rot if kept too wet. Mix compost, rotted manure, or anything high in organic matter into the soil. Rhubarb plants are heavy feeders and need this organic matter. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.

Rhubarb gets big! It can grow to 2 to 3 feet tall and wide. Make sure you choose a site where it won’t be crowded. 

How to Plant Rhubarb

  • Plant 1-year-old rhubarb crowns, which you can find at a garden center or nursery, or order online. Plants will be sold as bare-rooted specimens or young plants already growing in pots, ready for transplanting. (Rhubarb can be grown from seed, but this is not recommended.)
  • Before planting, eliminate all perennial weeds in the planting site.
  • Dig large, bushel-basket-size holes.
  • Space rhubarb plants about 2 to 4 feet apart and 3 to 4 feet between rows.
  • Plant crowns so the eyes are about 2 inches below the soil surface with buds facing up.
  • Water well at the time of planting.

Check out this video to learn more about how to plant rhubarb:

Growing

Overcrowding is a common problem with rhubarb and can lead to subpar growth. Dig and split rhubarb roots every 3 to 4 years. Divide when plants are dormant in early spring (or late fall). Divisions should have at least one large bud on them. 

  • Mulch generously with a heavy layer of straw to retain moisture and discourage weeds.
  • Water your plant well and consistently. Rhubarb needs sufficient moisture, especially during the hot, dry summer days.
  • Remove seed stalks as soon as they appear, as they will only drain energy from the plant that could be used to produce stalks or roots.
  • Each spring, apply a light sprinkling of fertilizer (10-10-10) when the ground is thawing or has just thawed. See your local frost dates.
  • In the fall, remove all plant debris. Once your ground freezes, it’s best to cover rhubarb with 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch, preferably well-rotted compost. By adding nitrogen to the soil, you’re preparing the rhubarb plants for a good spring season.

Rhubarb leaf

Harvesting

Do NOT harvest any stalks during the first growing season. Harvest sparingly in the second year. This allows your plants to become properly established.

  • After a plant’s third year, the harvest period (rhubarb season!) runs 8 to 10 weeks long, lasting through mid-summer.
  • Harvest stalks when they are 12 to 18 inches long and at least 3/4-inch in diameter. If the stalks become thin, stop harvesting; the plant’s food reserves are low.
  • Grab the base of the stalk and pull it away from the plant with a gentle twist. If this doesn’t work, you can cut the stalk at the base with a sharp knife. To prevent the spread of disease, be sure to sanitize the knife before cutting. Discard the leaves.
  • Always leave at least two stalks per plant to ensure continued production. You may have a bountiful harvest for well over 10 years without replacing your rhubarb plants.
  • It was once believed that the entire rhubarb plant became toxic as summer temperatures rose. This isn’t true, although summer-harvested stalks usually have a tougher texture than those picked in the spring. Nevertheless, after midsummer (July), it’s best to leave stalks on the plant to allow them to gather energy for next year’s growth.

How to Store Rhubarb

Cut the rhubarb stalks and refrigerate in a covered container. Or, tightly wrap stalks in plastic or aluminum foil and refrigerate. Rhubarb can be kept fresh in the refrigerator for a couple of weeks.

Cut rhubarb stalks into pieces, place them in a covered container or zip-type plastic bag, and put them in the freezer. Frozen rhubarb will last about a year.

Pests and Problems

Pests and diseases are rarely an issue with rhubarb, but it may be affected by the following problems.

Rhubarb Pests and Diseases
Pest/DiseaseTypeSymptomsControl/Prevention
Botrytis (gray mold)FungusVaries; yellow/ brown/gray spots with water-soaked margins on leaves/flowers; gray mold; buds remain closed; stem lesions; wilt/rot; scorched appearance (“fire”) in some plantsDestroy infected parts/severely infected plants (do not compost); remove plant debris regularly; disinfect tools; good air circulation/sunlight; avoid overhead watering; prevent plant stress/injury; weed; rotation
Fungal leaf spotFungusVaries; leaf spots on lower leaves enlarge and turn brown/black; fuzzy growth or pustules in lesions; disease progresses upward; leaves dieDestroy infected leaves/ severely infected plants (do not compost); remove plant debris regularly; disinfect tools; resistant varieties; good air circulation; avoid overhead watering
Phytophthora crown and root rotOomyceteLeaves discolor/ wilt; dieback; oozing cankers near base; reddish brown discoloration of inner bark/wood; roots rot; plants slow-growing/stunted/dieDestroy infected plants and surrounding soil (do
not compost); prune out branch cankers; remove plant debris regularly; plant resistant varieties; prevent plant stress/injury; provide good drainage/do not overwater
Rhubarb curculioInsectWeevil-like beetle that bores into stalks/crowns; notches on stalks/leaves; holes in stalks leak sap; plants wilt/decayHandpick adults (appear in mid-May); destroy nearby host plants (sunflowers, thistle, dock) in mid-summer (July)
Slugs/snailsMolluskIrregular holes in leaves; slimy secretion on plants/soil; young stems “disappear”Handpick; avoid thick bark mulch; use copper plant collars; avoid overhead watering; lay boards on soil in evening, in morning lift and dispose of pests in hot, soapy water; drown in deep container of 1/2 inch of beer or of sugar water and yeast sunk to ground level; apply 1-inch-wide strip of diatomaceous earth

Toxicity
The stalks are the only edible part of the rhubarb plant. These have a rich, tart flavor when cooked. The leaves of the rhubarb plant are toxic. They contain an irritant called oxalic acid, so be sure that they are not ingested.

Types

These common varieties have attractive red stalks and excellent growers: 

  • ‘Canada Red’
  • ‘Crimson Red’
  • ‘MacDonald’
  • ‘Valentine’

In addition to the previous four, there is a reliable, green-stalked cultivar named:

  • ‘Victoria’

Wit and Wisdom

Rhubarb originally came from Asia. It was brought to Europe in the 1600s and to America shortly thereafter. It thrives in areas with a cooler climate, making it popular in northern gardens.

Rhubarb has many other uses, from medicinal to cosmetic. See how to naturally lighten your hair with rhubarb. 

Vegetables
About The Author
Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann is the Executive Digital Editor of Almanac.com, the website companion of The Old Farmer's Almanac. She covers gardening, plants, pest control, soil composition, seasonal and moon c...
Read More from Catherine Boeckmann

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Comments

<span>Sandy</span> Thu, 10/16/2025 - 20:22
I’m 68 and I grew up eating rhubarb out of my parents garden as a kid. Pull it and dip the stalk in a bag of sugar! Sold the family farm, the plants had to be 50 years old. I dug some out and moved them wherever I lived. Those 50 year old plants live on! I’ve moved to Florida. You don’t find it here, because it’s too hot. So I have moved and taken one of the family plants. I’ve potted it. It grew, I put the pot in our refrigerator in the garage to “fake” winter it. So far so good. I hope it works, I can’t live without my rhubarb crisp!
<span>Diane</span> Fri, 07/25/2025 - 10:05
Can you grow rhubarb in a big planter. And would I want to bring it into my garage?
<span>Donald Scheske</span> Fri, 05/30/2025 - 11:00
I have a wonderful stock of rubbarb, with an abundant number of stocks. The problem I am having is that all the stocks are green! The variety is Canada Red. What is lacking in the soil that needs to be supplemented to make the stocks red? Please reply to my email please. Thanks.. I live in zone 7, near Indianaoplis, IN.
<span>Ann M Gahagen</span> Sat, 05/17/2025 - 15:33
I live in zone 9b on the San Francisco peninsula near San Jose. Growing and keeping rhubarb alive during our hot summers has been a challenge. Is there a rhubarb species that grows well in a Mediterranean climate?
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/joe-bills">Joe Bills</a> Fri, 05/23/2025 - 11:31

After some asking around, there seems to be some consensus that KangaRhu, Raspberry Red, Canadian Red, and Victoria might be good varieties to look for. 

Our friends at the Texas extension service offer some advice as well: https://travis-tx.tamu.edu/about-2/horticulture/edible-gardens-for-austin/vegetable-gardening-in-austin/rhubarb-texas-style/

And here's a quick video from a grower who had success growing rhubarb in Spain, in conditions similar to yours: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gazf3Bdlx6k.

Good luck and happy planting!

 

 <span>C. M. Barber</span> Tue, 05/13/2025 - 18:55
I live in Raleigh NC. I did not plant my rhubarb in the garden (due to extreme clay), but instead planted in a giant pot. It did well last year, but I did not harvest due to it being the first year. This year it has only put out 2 stalks so far. There are ants crawling over the plant. Any ideas as to how I can safely deal with the ants? Would they affect the number of stalks produced? Thanks for your reply.
<span>Cheryl Sharpe</span> Mon, 05/12/2025 - 18:08
This is the third year for my rhubarb plant. It looks really healthy but the stalks are very short. What is wrong? Over an inch in diameter but only about six inches long.
<span>No</span> Mon, 05/05/2025 - 10:27
Oxalic acid is not toxic. Spinach has more oxalic acid than rhubarb leaves and I bet you eat that. Parsley also has higher levels. Is it toxic, too? Collards and carrots have just as much oxalic acid as rhubarb leaves. Why do content creators parrot back information they don't verify? Is that really Quality content?
<span>Teri Minninger</span> Sat, 04/26/2025 - 15:05
Question about the big flower presenting itself in the middle of the rhubarb plant. What does this mean? Thank you
<span>Shirley</span> Sat, 06/14/2025 - 15:58
What should I do with the large white flower in the middle of the plant, can the rhubarb still be eaten?