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Planting and Growing Garlic

clean garlic heads after being harvested from the garden
Botanical Name
Allium sativum
Plant Type
Sun Exposure
Soil pH
USDA Zones
Subhead

Easy garlic growing tips—from choosing varieties to planting cloves and harvesting tasty bulbs

Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener
Almanac Guide to Herbs

Plant your own garlic cloves in fall, and by summer, you’ll be harvesting your own fresh “stinking rose” to spice up any dish with homegrown garlic flavor. In this guide, you’ll learn all about planting, growing, and harvesting garlic and garlic scapes, and find out what type of garlic is best for your garden!

Planting

When to Plant Garlic 

Although garlic can be planted in early spring, it’s much more common to plant it in late fall — about 1 to 2 weeks after the first killing frost. This gives plants more time to grow and develop sturdy roots and prompts better clove formation. Unlike many veggies, garlic requires a period of cold dormancy to flourish, which you can accomplish by planting it outside in fall in locations where winter temperatures stay under 40°F (or 8°C) or by placing garlic in a paper bag in the back of the fridge for 10 weeks prior to planting to mimic these natuarally chilly conditions.

In most areas, growers will start planting garlic outside at the same time they plant spring flowering bulbs - some time between October and November. However, in mild climates you may be able to plant garlic as late as February or March although the resulting bulbs won’t be as large.

Hardiness ZoneWhen to Plant Garlic
Zones 1 to 6Early October
Zones 7 and 8Late October to November
Zones 9 and 10November to Early December
Zones 10+Put Cloves in Fridge for
10 Weeks Before Planting

Where to Plant Garlic

Garlic thrives in full sun and should be planted in a well-draining location that receives 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day and has nutrient-rich soil. For bigger bulbs, feed the soil with compost or aged manure before planting, and consider adding an organic amendment like bonemeal or a potassium-rich fertilizer too.

It’s very important to note that garlic struggles in wet soil that’s heavy with clay and drains poorly. In these locations, it’s usually best to keep garlic in raised beds or in pots that are at least 8 to 10-inches deep.

Spacing for Garlic

How to Plant Garlic

While it can be tempting to grow garlic from grocery store bulbs, this isn’t recommnded. Not only are these bulbs often treated with compounds that prevent sprouting, but they may also harbor pests and diseases that can be transferred to your garden. Instead, it’s always best to purchase “seed” garlic from reliable suppliers, or to save cloves leftover from the biggest garlic bulbs you grew last season for starting new plants!

  • Before planting garlic, prep the soil by removing weeds and adding in compost, then work a couple of tablespoons of 5-10-10 complete fertilizer, bonemeal, or fish meal into the top few inches of soil in the spot where you intend to plant.
  • Next, select large, healthy cloves that are free of disease. The larger the cloves, the bigger and healthier the bulbs will be!
  • Just before planting, crack the seed garlic bulbs apart into individual cloves and leave the papery skins on. Then, plant the cloves 4 to 8-inches apart and 2-inches deep with the pointy ends of the bulbs facing up. If you’re growing multiple rows of garlic, space the rows 6 to 12-inches apart.
Planting garlic cloves in dirt with rubber gloved hands. Photo by Yuriy S / Getty Images
Planting garlic clove by clove. Credit: YuriyS/Getty Images

Growing

Watering 

Garlic cloves should be watered once immediately after planting. Then, you shouldn’t need to water again until the cloves sprout in spring. 

During the active growing season, water garlic deeply every 3 to 5 days when the bulbs are forming from mid-May through June. Then, as mid-June approaches, taper off watering to help the bulbs mature and make harvesting easier.

Fertilizing

Garlic is a heavy feeder that grows best in soil that’s been enriched with plenty of organic matter. In early spring, side-dress or broadcast garlic with a high nitrogen organic fertilizer and then fertilize your plants again when the days begin to lengthen in early May and the bulbs begin to swell.

Pruning or Maintenance

Make sure to weed garlic beds regularly as garlic doesn’t grow well with competition. These plants generally don’t need pruing, but it’s a good idea to snip off any flower shoots that emerge in spring as they can impair bulb development.

Seasonal Care

In areas where the ground freezes, garlic plantings should be mulched deeply with straw or chopped autumn leaves to ensure proper overwintering. Once the risk of frost has passed in spring, remove all but a light layer of mulch to your compost pile so the garlic shoots can grow.

Garlic shoots growing out of soil
Photo by YuriyS/Getty Images

Harvesting

When to Harvest

Fall-planted garlic is typically ready for harvesting the following spring — some time between June and August, depending on how long it takes the specific type of garlic you’re growing to reach full maturity.

You’ll know it’s time to harvest when garlic leaves begin to yellow and fall over, but before the leaves turn completely dry. To ensure bulbs develop properly, dig up a sample bulb before continuing with the harvesting process. When mature, garlic heads should be divided into plump cloves and the skin covering the outside of the bulbs will be thick, dry, and papery.

If you’re growing garlic for scapes, harvest the scapes when they begin to curl.

How to Harvest

To harvest garlic, carefully dig the bulbs up with a gardening fork or shovel and don’t pull or yank the stems by hand. Lift the plants free from the soil and carefully brush off large bits of dirt; however, don’t remove any leaves or roots just yet.

Storage

Garlic bulbs can be used fresh from the garden and scapes are delicious in homemade pesto and stir-fries. However, if you want bulbs to last in storage, you’ll need to cure them first.

To cure garlic, spread the plants in a warm, shady, and dry spot with good air flow for about 2 weeks. You can cure them on screens or racks, or hang them upside down with string in bunches of 4 to 6. After a few weeks, the garlic should be totally dry with papery skins, dry roots, and relatively hard cloves that can be easily cracked apart. When this occurs, you’ll know your garlic is ready for storage.

To store garlic, first brush off any dirt that remains on the bulbs and don’t be tempted to clean the bulbs with water. Remove only the dirtiest of the papery skins and leave the rest of the skins as in tact as possible. Then, trim the garlic roots to ¼ inch and cut the tops to 1 to 2-inches, unless you’re growing softneck garlic and want to create garlic braids.

For proper storage, keep cured bulbs in a cool (55°F / 13°C), dark, and dry place. In these conditions, cured garlic can last for months or even until the next growing season. Humid basements and refrigerators are not ideal for long-term storage as high humidity can lead to early spoilage.

If you plan on planting garlic again next season, be sure to save some of your largest, best-formed bulbs to plant again in fall!

Harvested garlic bulbs.
Photo by Nikolaeva Elena/Getty Images

 

Pests and Problems

Garlic has very few problems with pests in the garden and can actually be used as a pest-deterring companion plant for many other crops. However, it can be plagued by some of the same problems and pests that bother onions.

Common Problems

  • Split bulbs. Garlic bulbs may start to split if they’re watered improperly or left in the ground too long after they mature.
  • Undersized bulbs. Nutrient definicies are the leading cause of undersized garlic bulbs and cloves; however, garlic may also look stunted if the plants are overcrowded or harvested too early.
  • Yellowing leaves. Garlic leaves naturally yellow as the bulbs reach a harvestable stage, but they may yellow prematurely due to watering issues or a lack of fertilizer.

Common Pests

  • Onion maggots can cause limp and yellow leaves and stunted garlic plants due to root damage. The best way to prevent these pests is to harvest on time, stay on top of weeds, do a proper garden cleanup in fall, and employ row covers as needed.
  • Onion thrips often target the lower leaves on garlic plants and can cause silver leaf streaking, distorted bulb growth, and browning leaf tips. Cleaning up plant debris at the end of the growing season, companion planting to naturally control pests, employing row covers, and growing pest-resistant garlic varieties can help to naturally manage these pests.

Plant Diseases

  • White rot is a fungal issue that can cause leaf yellowing and wilting and a cottony growth near the base of garlic plants. Choosing disease-resistant plants, disinfecting tools, cleaning out old plant debris, and rotating crops on a 5-year cycle can ensure you never have deal with this problem!

Wit and Wisdom

  • According to lore, rubbing raw garlic on an insect bite helps to relieve the sting or itch.
  • Old-time gardeners swear that garlic “learns” because it adapts to your growing conditions and improves each year.
  • University of Missouri Extension horticulture specialist David Trinklein explains, “Garlic was given to the original Olympic athletes in ancient Greece to increase strength and stamina. Thus, this culinary staple was perhaps one of the earliest performance-enhancing agents in sports.” Garlic once helped win gold medals!

 

About The Author
Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann is the Executive Digital Editor of Almanac.com, the website companion of The Old Farmer's Almanac. She covers gardening, plants, pest control, soil composition, seasonal and moon c...