How to Grow Zinnias: Bold Blooms All Season

Hi, Kathy. For bushier zinnias, you need to cut back stems while the plant is young. If your zinnias get too tall, you can do a hard pruning by cutting back the plant by about two-thirds.

Absolutely—their ability to tolerate drought makes them excellent container flowers.

Zinnias may receive themselves in a single growing season. I have them sprouting in my fall garden from seeds that bloomed earlier in the summer. They do not require stratification evidently. Zinnias are my favorite garden flower: reliable, tall, multiple colors, very hardy. .

Interesting. When flowers change color, it's usually because it's a hybrid which is reverting back to its parent. This does not happen with heirloom/native plants.

Do you mean the side shoots that develop at the leaf axis? They will grow and produce more flowers, so leave them be!

Hi Andrea, Thanks for your question. Zinnias are quite easy to grow from seed and can provide beautiful color throughout the growing season. Zinnias love full sun and well-draining soil, rich with organic matter, so make sure the location you have selected will provide what the flowers will need. Make sure you plant your seeds when there is no more threat of frost and ensure you provide enough space between plantings to promote proper growth. (Check your seed packet information to determine what is needed for your variety.)

Zinnias only need to go about 1/4 inch into the soil, so just move the thin layer of mulch away from the planting rows in order to get the necessary depth.

To get blooms throughout the year, there are two things you can do: deadhead spent blooms to promote new flower growth, and plant seeds every week or two to spread out the blooms that will last right up until the first frost in the fall.

Hi, Andrea, We are not familiar with the brand or type of zinnias that you identified here but assuming that they are "common" zinnias, planting is easy: After all risk of frost has passed, cover seeds with 1/4-inch of soil (not mulch; it's too heavy) and water. Maintain dampness. Seedlings should appear in a week to ten days.  Here is a lot more information about these lovely flowering plants: https://www.almanac.com/plant/zinnias 

I have never heard of doing this with zinnias. You are describing what to do with dahlias in colder northern climates. You can save the zinnia seeds to plant next year. Just leave the last few flower heads on the plant at the end of the season. They will mature and you can harvest the seeds. Hope that helps!

Hi, Karen, Zinnias do not typically branch out; they produce one stem with flowers at the top. (See the picture at the top of the page.) Most people have success starting from seed in ground; transplanting is not usually recommended. Before you transplant yours, harden them off with some exposure to the outdoors in advance. Then when you plant them, try not to disturb the roots; take as much of the starter soil as possible and you might fool the plants into thinking that little has changed. While it's early in season you might also invest in more seeds and try direct sowing a few when it's warm out (see above). We hope this helps!

Hi Peter,
Since zinnias are annuals and require reseeding each year, there's a chance they maybe have been cross-pollinated with a purple zinnia from someone else's garden. That could give the partial purple effect you're describing. We hope this helps!

Possibly old seed, or the soil in the box may have dried out as the seed was starting to sprout.

You can certainly try it but bear in mind that (as noted above) these plants are not always happy to be transplanted. There's an easy solution, of course: buy enough seeds to start both indoors and out.

Also keep in mind that nurseries produce seedlings under highly controlled conditions/environments; it's not easy to get the same effects or outcome at home. But try it!

We can not find much about eating the entire (above ground) plant. We see comments suggesting that zinnias are "somewhat bitter" but it is not clear if that means the plant or the petals, because the petals are all that is recommended. FWIW, this is a pretty comprehensive "edibles" list and zinnia is recommended for replacement by another edible, not harvested itself : https://www.extension.uidaho.edu/publishing/pdf/BUL/BUL92... That's all we have on this idea.

Follow the guidance on your packet for spacing seeds and/or remove crowded seedlngs later. Zinnias do not form significantly large root "balls," but each plant does need a bit of space.

In theory, you could grow zinnias indoors, but they will need to be in a spot that gets full sun all day. Otherwise, they will likely become spindly and not bloom well. They would do better in a container on a porch or balcony. 

Hi Joanne,
Once the Zinnia seedlings are about 3 inches tall, it would help their growth to thin them to 6 inches apart. You could also try to transplant some that you are thinning out. To save the seeds at the end of the season, wait until the flowers finish blooming and then leave them there for the seed pods to develop. Let the seed pods dry until they are brown and crunchy. Cut the pods from the flower stalk and break open the pods to harvest the seeds. Save the seeds in a sealed bag or container and place in a dry, cool place until the following year.

To save zinnia seeds, wait until the flower is completely shriveled and dry. The seed of these plants will be attached to the shriveled petals.

It's very important to store correctly: Put the seeds in a small paper envelope or wrap in paper. Place the envelopes in a glass jar or air tight plastic container. Seal the container and store it in the back of your refrigerator.

Tip: To keep the seed dry, you could add one of those little packets of Silica Gel Desiccants which absorb moisture. Or, a tablespoon or two of powdered milk wrapped in a facial tissue and placed in the seed storage container will also work to absorb excess moisture from the air.

It's impossible to know for certain (from here) what critter is zapping your zinnias, but the U of Minn coop extension has identified these critters (click to see the list, with pics of plant damage): https://apps.extension.umn.edu/garden/diagnose/plant/annu...

Other sources recommend rotating these plantings, too, for best results (yes, rotating flowers, not just veggies).

Where do you store plant in winter? And do you wafter? When do you return outside?

I live in Arizona. This last year is my first amazing year discovering these flowers. They survived the winter and have new leaves at the bases, should I cut them back like roses? How do you prune zinnias?if I hard prune them how much stalk should I leave? And what time of year? We are getting 70-80* days, but still a little chilly at night! Thank you! I order some amazing new varieties90$ worth of seeds! They are special ones, gonna share with my daughter!i am really looking forward to these!!going zinnia crazy!

Sure, try it. Grow them in semi-shade, perhaps, if possible, shade during the hottest part of the day. They do need and like sunshine!

I live in Arizona where those temperatures in summer are very hot. I planted a bed of zinnias in my front yard, mixing my desert soil with prepackaged mulch. In between each planting, I stuck plastic forks into the ground--tine sides up--to discourage rabbits, birds, and gophers. I kept the bed moist and soon the zinnias started coming up. I try to water them in the cool of the day--usually at night--with a soft spray of water, but sometimes I water them at ground level because they don't like to get their leaves wet. I will continue to sow seeds throughout the summer to fill in areas that have stopped producing. In the Phoenix area, zinnias will bloom all the way through October.

Thinning simply means to remove some of the plants so that the ones you leave behind will grow bigger and better as they have more room to grow, and can get more nutrients from the soil as there are fewer flowers to compete with.

have you tried to make it dwarf and looks like a short bushes? that would be more beautiful

Zinnias can be grown anywhere from Zone 3 to Zone 10. 

Sounds lovely! Zinnias are annuals so enjoy them while they last. They like/prefer the full sun of the outdoors, so bringing them indoors may hasten their demise. Put them where you can see them and savor them.

Yes, just make sure that the pots are not sitting in water. If it's been raining a lot, you shouldn't have to do any extra watering. Lastly, hope for some more sun!

Zinnias are so easy to grow but are annuals. Before frost, I always cut off the flower heads and let them dry out and place them in a brown paper bag and break them up gently and plant the next year, as these are new seeds. Not only butterflies love them, but so do hummingbirds and Great American Goldfinch.

You have a green thumb, Steve! We love zinns, too! So cheerful and bright! Thanks for sharing your experience.

If you are cutting zinnias for an arrangement, cut stems to desired size making sure to cut just above a leaf node or bud to encourage new blooms on the remaining stem.

Make sure to snip off (deadhead) the old flowers—this encourages the plant to produce more. Additionally, feed the plant with a liquid fertilizer formulated for producing blooms. This fertilizer should have more phosphorous (P) and potassium (K) than nitrogen (N). The Epsom salt alone isn't enough, and isn't really used to encourage blooming. 

Humans are not the only beings attracted to these plants. Rabbits, deer, slugs, Japanese beetles, and European earwigs like them enough to eat all or part of them—especially in the night time. Try to block access to large critters and possibly the beetles, at least until the plants can achieve some size, with row cover secured at ground level. You might inhibit slugs with something "rough" they'd have to crawl over to get to the plants, like crushed egg shells or diatomaceous earth or other thick sand or gravel.

I live in a condo so do not have garden space. I planted zinias in plant boxes (plants are bunched together) They grew nice and tall but have not blossomed. What could be the reason?

Your timing should be fine but read the "Planting" advice above to be sure that everything else is fine, too. ;-)

OVER 6 FEET! Wow! Must be something in the water... This is great advice and you make it sound easy. Thanks for sharing!

Zinnias don't need a lot of care. When they're seedlings (about 4 inches tall), you could apply 5-10-5 liquid fertilizer. And perhaps apply again mid season.  However, many folks don't use fertilizer at all.
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They actually need light to germinate. What I do is; take a paper towel, sprinkle my seeds onto it, moisten the paper tower and wring it out, place in a zip-loc bag, leave a tiny air opening in seal and I usually have my seeds germinated by morning. It's wonderful and so fast. I then take the sprouted seeds and place them in soil and they perk up the next day. This is the fastest way to germinate them in my experience. Just make sure they get a little light for germination. Good luck!

Hi Ria,

Generally, 1 or 2 seeds are placed in each hole, between 4 and 24 inches apart, depending on the variety. The back of the seed package can explain more specifics for your variety. However, zinnias take about two months to grow from seed to flower, so depending on where you live there may be a frost before your plants can fully bloom. If your region experiences a cold winter, you can plant your zinnias in pots for indoor growing. We hope this helps!

Deadheading is cutting off the flowers that are past their best looks wise . Ie they are dead. So dead heading means removing them to encourage more flowers to grow.

Are you sure you're harvesting the zinnia seeds and not those of the weed?? (Just kidding)

Make sure that you're sowing the zinnia seeds after your last spring frost has passed, and that you're not sowing the seeds too deep (no more than 1/4 inch). It sounds like they may simply be getting choked out by this mystery weed. If you could describe it in a bit more detail, we might be able to help identify it for you. You may also wish to try sending a picture to your local https://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-ser...">Cooperative Extension service, who will be more familiar with plants in your area. In the meantime, see our https://www.almanac.com/content/common-garden-weeds">Common Weeds and https://www.almanac.com/content/weed-control-techniques">Weed Control Techniques pages for more info. Clearing out as much of the weed as you can prior to sowing, tilling the soil, and mixing in new soil may help your zinnias grow.

I have the exact same problem that you described. Thick weeds with hardly any sprouting flowers. A knowledgeable friend identified the weed as Wandering Jew. Have not confirmed that. Plan to use a good dose of weed killer as soon as the few plants left are through blooming.

Hi Kimberli,

Staking is the simplest option, but you could also try a basic trellis, like those used for peas or beans. Tie loose-fitting loops of string underneath the "armpits" of two leaf joints to hold the zinnia stalks up.

Insecticides could be a factor, though most insecticides work by killing insects upon contact or ingestion, rather than by repelling them outright. It could be the case that the coneflowers are simply more attractive to the pollinators right now!

I've used pesticides before and realized the bad bugs and along with the "good bugs" like bees, lady bugs and etc were not returning to my flowers. The pesticides deter all bugs, the good and the bad.

Just a few thoughts:  Do the zinnia have enough warmth and light indoors?  Check their potting mix. Is it too acidic for them? (You'd need a pH meter.) Perhaps use an aged compost. Also, are the seedlings' roots too wet so the roots are oxygen starved? Add perlite to your mix for better drainage.

I had this same problem before. I used potting soil after germinated and they would die back after being sprouted. I found out what the problem was, my soil! I just bought seed starting mix soil and they grew like crazy. Maybe that's your problem, because that's exactly what happened to me once. Try your soil. Just buy a cheap seed starting mix, nothing fancy.

Welcome to the club, Tim. One of our editors tried staking single plants a year ago because they appeared to be weak. They stood up, more or less, and bloomed, but it would have been a better idea to improve the soil earlier in season instead. It's a little late for that now for you—but not impossible. You could "sprinkle" compost around the plants to help them (don't scrape/cultivate it in because you could harm the flowers' roots). She tried that, too. Another alternative: could you protect the plants from the rain easily—say, with a "sandwich board" type of cover?? Generally speaking if the plants are healthy and their sun and soil conditions are favorable, they will spring back after rain.

We hope this helps!

It's better to sow zinnia into the ground once it's consistently warm. That said, people do transplant successfully, especially if you're translating from a good-size pot so they are not root-bound. Some varieties are easy and some are more temperamental. It's better to transplant before they bloom. If you're worried, perhaps you keep some in pots and sow more in the ground. They take off so quickly--which is the other reason people don't usually bother with transplanting risk.

Zinnias do not tend to transplant well. Gardeners have done it successfully but many more have found that the zinnias cease growing. At this stage, we might suggest keeping them in pots. They do seed very quickly if you want to plant some more outside! You'll see seedlings in a few days!

You probably know by now that if your "house zinnias" were raised without any sunlight the sun killed them when you set them out.

Our guess would be that the zinnias have used up most of the soil's nutrients in that spot. Before you seed next year, mix one or two inches of compost into the soil to add nutrients and loosen the soil a bit, which the zinnias should also appreciate. For this season, try adding some balanced fertilizer and see if that improves blooms.

Most zinnias respond very well to the removal of old flower buds (deadheading), which can encourage them to bloom again. Now, in your case, the deadheading was a bit premature, but it will probably have the same effect. All you can really do is wait and see!

Yes it can our temperature is about 90 to 125 Fahrenheit it's blooming flowers all day water it twice or thrice a week

We agree. There is no such thing as deer-proof.  That said, some plants are deer candy and preferred by deer to other plants. Zinnia are considered deer-resistant.  Of course, in bad weather, deer will eat anything, including holly!

The best idea might be to start seeds indoors to get a jump on bloom time. But since zinnias don't like being transplanted, sow them in peat pots that can be directly transplanted into the garden. Zinnias generally take 60 to 70 days from seed to flower so sow accordingly.  

As long as you keep them well watered and the heat wave doesn't persist for too long, they should be okay.

Ah, ...it's November 22. A month from the shortest day of the year and the beginning of winter, wherever you are north of the equator. Two months into fall. Your plants—zinnias and others—are trying to tell you that the season is over. What's more because they are zinnias they are never coming back; they are annuals (they grow for one year/season). Next year you need to plant more/again. You should thank these plants for whatever small pleasure/s they brought you (even the anticipation should be appreciated), promise you will aim to do better next year, and pull them from the soil so the soil can rest.

As for why they failed to thrive...a few thoughts. See above: Zinnias want full, all-day sunlight. Not part sunlight or morning sun or late afternoon sun or under the tree sun. Full in their face sun. They like soil with a pH or 5.5 to 7.5. In the spring, do a soil test (go to a garden supply store; it costs only a couple dollars) and amend accordingly. See here about that: http://www.almanac.com/search/site/pH

Make sure you have rich, composted soil (just adding fertilized soil is not enough). Set the seeds in warm weather (see above); they will not germinate in cold/cool soil or temps. And see above again for other details.

Let us know how it goes next season! Happy holidays!

Lucky you! Most plants have been bitten by the hard frost. You could put them in water to see if they bloom. We can't promise you a rose garden effect but it's worth a try. Good luck, Anne!

Yes, zinnias are known to develop interesting variations when left to reseed. You are right—they can be a real joy!

Wait for the flower head to dry and for the petals to drop off. There will be a central seed head. When it is completely dry, break it apart and separate the seeds from the chaff (the seeds are dark and pointy like small arrowheads). Dry them some more by laying them out on a screen, then store them in a cool, dry place until spring.

That is probably powdery mildew. One fairly effective treatment is to apply a baking soda spray: In a gallon of water, mix 1 heaping tablespoon baking soda, 1 tablespoon horticultural or vegetable oil, and 1/2 teaspoon plain liquid soap. Mix well and transfer into a spray bottle. Late in the day (so the plant has all night to soak up the mixture) spray both the tops and undersides of the leaves as well as the stems. Apply two to three times a week as symptoms persist. Powdery mildew is not easy to control; luckily it is not fatal. The best method is prevention, which means removing diseased plants, replacing them with healthy new plants, allowing a lot of air circulation, and making sure the plants receive as much sunlight as possible.

Zinnias are prone to powdery mildew, which is most likely what yours have. There is no sure cure but try spraying plants once a week with a solution of 1.5 tablespoons baking soda, 3 tablespoons horticultural oil, dissolved in 1 gallon of water. 

Hi, Sandra, Zinnias have lots of enemies: aphids, earwigs, leafminers, spider mites, thrips, whiteflies, and a few others. Earwigs, common in summer, are especially harmful to a number of plants, including zinnias. To confirm that it may be them, you need to go out at night and examine the site with a flashlight. It's most likely earwigs. If there is any good news, it's that they are natural enemies of aphids and mites (so you would not have these in the same vicinity as earwigs). Earwigs are attracted to dark, moist places such as under plant pots. If possible in future, put a tray or the like under your plant pot. It might deter the earwigs.

when it's time to "deadhead" each bloom, grasp the center and pull gently away from the wilted petals. Voila! Seeds for next year. Just put them into a small envelope or baggie and store for next year.

Don't worry they will come in bulk and in different varieites,you will enjoy alot when the days got hot.

Hi, Sherry, That's a darn shame! You could, should try to prop them. "Ropes" sounds heavy weight but you know what you're dealing with. We might suggest string...or narrow-diameter bamboo poles or the like, with string, lightly tied to the plant and the pole. If the plants still have roots in the ground, they may very well "come back." If the roots are exposed, toss a bit of soil on them, once the plants are upright. That might help them to get a grip. Here's hoping they rise to the occasion!

It may be that the proper seeds did not get put into the proper seed packet. We asked around and have no other reason, such as soil quality, for example. If you think of it next time you're in a nursery or the like, ask. And if do find out, let us know—

Apparently, Janice, some types may self-sow each year, but not always.

Now been over 3 weeks and there is still no sign of the majority of the zinnia seeds I planted. I have no idea what's going on. Each variety was from a different seed packet, and there were different brands. I have a hard time believing that 4/5 packets were bad seeds! From past experience I know that most would have sprouted by now. And I planted much more than I've ever planted before, so I can't imagine why my luck is SO bad this year! The thumbelinas are thriving in one area, and alyssum and wild flowers are coming up fine. I prepped the whole bed- dug up/loosened soil, put in dried fish emulsion per the instructions (supposed to add with the seed).. What could have happened??

Hi Donna,

You may have disease called Aster yellows. You can read more about it here.

www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-ga...

Or, you may have some other small insects eating the petals. Earwigs can cause damage to blossoms.

I have the same question--how can I make my 30 inch tall zinnas be short spreading plants before they get too tall without loosing their blooms

We've tried peat pellets to start zinnias and they work well, however, you are right in saying that they hate transplanting. You need to either use peat pellets and sow them very close (2 weeks) after germination or direct sow. 

In terms of depth, we have never tried more than the recommended depth. When you sow zinnia seeds, you cover with a fine layer of soil or light mulch such as vermiculite and water very lightly.

Sometimes flowers change color or fade when stressed. This can happen if it has just been transplanted. Give your zinnias some time to adapt to their new home. Also, only water from the bottom. Do not get the petals or foliage wet.

Good plan, Cheri. Seeds per hole...you could do one each and plant them closely and then thin them as they get larger, transplanting the ones you pull up. That would be better then two or more per hole because you would disturb the roots of any/all in the hole if you thin them. Zinnias are such happy flowers, aren't they?! We love them, too.

You are not going to have a lot of luck indoors, even with a grow light. They are bound to be spindly and generally weak specimens. And that's even if you have proper pH and soil, light, heat, etc.

Holy smokes! I'm having the exact same problem and would love some advice.

Your comment that your zinnias are "very tall" may mean that they are reaching for sunlight? competing with nearby plants? And if they are competing, are there too many in a space allowed?

It may also be "dampening off"—too much moisture, too cool temps. The plants collapse, then, sometimes, recover as you have described. This is soil-borne condition caused by—you guessed it—dampness and high temps, in which conditions plants may grow too rapidly at first, collapse, then recover as yours do (not all plants recover from dampening off). Your tools and pots could be infected; wash thoroughly. Only use good potting soil, and do not plant seeds too deeply.

Your seedlings may have succumbed to a fungus called pythium that caused them to keel over after germinating. The condition is called "damping off." The best remedy is to start the seeds in a sterile potting mix.

Hi, Dell: The stronger the plant, the stronger (more viable) the seeds are likely to be. Seeds from a diseased zinnia are not so much likely to transmit/continue disease as they are just to produce weaker plants. So go ahead and save them and see. The greater danger, which many people overlook, comes from disease that remains in the soil and then rejuvenates when replanted upon. So it is important to make sure that you clean the bed first. Thanks for asking!

Zinnias do need to be watered during dry spells. Globe Amaranth is a carefree annual for full sun locations. Cosmos is also very easy to grow in dry conditions and begonias do well with minimum maintenance.

You remove the flower when it fades (turns brown). If you leave the faded flowers on the plant they will develope seeds that you then can collect and save for next year.

It sounds as if you have a fungal leaf spot. You should be able to control this by spraying them every 7 to 14 days with a fungicide which you can get from your local garden store. When you see this fungus, cut off the affected parts of the plant and throw in the trash. Keep the garden bed free of weeds and dead plant debris.

Sure, you can still plant them. We'd suggest getting the seeds in before July though.

It will be hard to tell what type of Zinnia seeds you have. If the heads are fairly big you know that the Zinnias will grow big. Find the seeds in the head and plant as soon as you can. They should germinate soon and you will have some flowers later this summer.

Hi, Toggs: Zinnias quite often will self-seed and come back. Lucky you!

Usually, leggy zinnias mean that they haven't had enough direct light as they were starting out.  Grow lights need to be very close (two inches) from the seedlings. 

I've had the same issues with slugs. Not sure if you mulch your gardens or not, but removing the mulch cuts down on the slugs. I also found a product called "sluggo" that is a life saver. You put it around the base of your plants then sprinkle around the rest of the garden and the slugs will eat it and die.

Hi my zinnia was wilted this am I watered it an it basically looked dead this am but with in a few hours u couldn't even tell .

I have problems with slugs as well this probably sounds crazy but if you put a small dish of beer in your garden the slugs will be attracted to it. It must be deep enough for them to fall in and drown.You will either wake up the next morning with a dish full of dead slugs or a drunk racoon lol

There are many varieties of medium-size zinnias that are still tall enough for cutting flowers. "Cut and Come Again" is a popular variety. "Jazzy Mix" is pretty. "Candy Cane Mix" is something different. To have bushier-shaped zinnia plants, you need to pinch off an inch or so from the tips of the main stems while the plant is still young.

I grow zinnias every year. Liliput varieties will stay below 2 ft tall, so I definitely recommend Lilliputs. Thumbelina varieties grow to 6-8 inches. I have had success planting several "cut and come again" variety plants per pot - keeping roughly 2 inches between each plant. As the zinnias grow, they support each other. I like to keep about a 3-4 inch lip from the top of the pot to also help with support. For the shorter varieties, I use smaller pots and stick to 2-4 plants per pot. Each plant will produce several flowers as the summer goes on. Best of luck!

Zinnias generally do not need staking. It sounds like you are planting the seeds too close together. They shade each other so they are growing too tall and weak trying to get to the light. Read the spacing information on the seed pkt carefully and conform. Unlike Marigolds which you can just sprinkle and rake lightly, zinnias must be carefully spaced.

Another reader, below, was attempting to grow zinnias in winter, too. As George responds there, you're not going to have a whole lot of luck indoors, even with a grow light. They are bound to be spindly and generally weak specimens. And that's even if you have proper pH and soil, light, heat, etc. (see above; do you have all the recommended basic growing conditions?).

Zinnias are a sun-loving summer annual. If you are starting them for summer planting, you may be just a little early (you do not say where you are). If you can keep them going until your area is consistently warm, you might be able to transplant them; if you do, make sure you minimize the disturbance to the roots. Zinnias generally prefer to be sown: grown from seed in soil in the ground or in pot.

Are you certain you planted zinnia seeds? I'm asking because zinnias are native to Mexico, so hot and sunny weather shouldn't be an issue. Also, zinnias take about 60-70 days to bloom, so your plants seem to be flowering early. I have never seen zinnia flowers open and close, so I'm wondering if you have actual zinnia seeds. Hope this helps your question!

I have a question. I'm new to gardening and had a great summer with success and beauty. I just received zinnia seeds. I plan to get started next spring. Can one grow these indoors in pots in winter months?

If zinnias suffer, it is usually lack of full sun or nutrient deficiency. Zinnias are heavy feeders and need lots of potassium. We can only guess they needed to be fed more? 

I grow the Benary Giant Zinnias for sale to florists, and I, too, had the same problem with the Green Envy Zinnia, altho' never with any other Zinnia. It is not a nutrition problem but some sort of pest that burrows into the swelling of the stem just below the bud. Sometimes the blossom will open only on one side and be disfigured, sometimes it withers and dies completely.

Try combining 1 cup neem oil, 1 tablespoon cayenne pepper, and 1 tablespoon of dish soap. Add about 1.5 tablespoons of this mixture with 16 ounces of water in a spray bottle and shake well. Spray the infected plants. Apply weekly. You can also try adding food-grade diatomaceous earth to the soil around and under the zinnias.

You can see the answer to saving zinnia seeds lower on this very page.

Try cutting them back. In fact, the more flowers you cut, the more the plants will produce for a long season of bloom. If a zinnia bloom is spent (has died), deadhead it -- pinch it off; this will also encourage more blooms.

Pinching back our zinnia flowers actually creates bigger blooms. Perhaps you have a smaller-size zinnia variety?

Pinching your zinnias makes them have many more flowers, rather than long stems.

MIGHT BECAUSE IF IT RAINS TOO MUCH THE PLANT WILL HAVE TOO MUCH WATER TRY PUTTING IN A INDOOR SPOT BUT LIKE A WINDOW FOR SUNLIGHT

If you still wish to plant flowers in July in East Texas, your best bet is probably zinnia or marigolds. They do well in summer heat.

Hi, Ann: Assuming that the seeds were OK, that there are no pests, that the soil is OK, and that they have had the same water, it sounds as though perhaps these other three are somehow getting shaded even though they are in the same area. Without full sun, zinnia will definitely get pale and skinnia. Good luck!

It sounds like leaf spot fungus. Spray with a fungicide recommended by a local nursery two or three times during the season.

Mildew is a common hazard with zinnias that results in the conditions you describe.

Click through on the word "powdery mildew" in the text above for more advice.

What a dissapointment, Aslam! Cover your plants with a screen or the like that allows sunlight and adequate water but not birds.

try "row cover", very light fabric that keeps insects out but lets light and rain through. after the plants get strong you can remove it.

Zinnias is very attractive flowers that I have planted in our garden. ......

Just avoid saving Zinnia Seeds from hybrid varieties as they do not grow true to the parent. Any open-pollinated variety of seed will do. For example, Profusion is hybrid. Green Envy, Persian Carpet, and Lilliput are popular open-pollinated varieties. Allow the seed to mature and dry as long as possible on the plant. Spread seeds on a screen in a single layer in a well-ventilated area for more drying time. Package in envelopes and store in a cool, dry location.

Sounds colorful! Peppermint Stick Zinnia grows to height of 2 to 3 feet. 

Zinnias are best when they are directly seeded in the ground as they grow fast. 

Zinnias actually don't like being transplanted. If possible, it's best to sow seeds in peat pots that can be directly transplanted into the garden.

Transplant after all danger of frost is gone. Here's our frost chart for your local: www.almanac.com/content/frost-chart-united-states  Just keep in mind that frost dates are averages based on the past; every year is different!

Zinnias are sunlovers so full sun is prefered. Maybe you can plant them in containers in a sunny spot. Wait to plant until the minimum daytime temperature is about 60 degrees F.

Yes, impatiens have suffered from disease and recent years and downy mildew problems still crop up, though it seems to be getting better n 2014 as growers learn ways to fight back this disease. You may wish to consider alternative shade plants to be on the safe side.

We don't sell seeds. (Maybe we should!)  However, if you type "Gold braid sanvitalia" into Google, we see a couple seed companies as well as eBay options. All the best.

You could transplant the seedlings into bigger containers that can be put outdoors during warmer days and moved back indoors at night. The only problem may be space!

PEA PODS????? WHAT?..Do you mean Peat Pots??

Hi, we love colorful zinnias! Zinnias do not like moist soil You want the soil to dry out between waterings because soggy soil promotes fungal disease. Water only at the base of the plant, too.

The bigger issue for you might be lack of warmth. Zinnias LOVE hot weather and full sunlight--as well as lots of air circulation. This comes from being outside. If the zinnias do not survive, it is simply because they need to get outdoors in the sun and it's too early for them. You can seed again!

Zinnias love that full sun and hot weather as they come from arid regions. Keep watering regularly. They really aren't that fussy about soil, but we like mix in 2 or 3 inches of compost before planting. Fertilize at least twice during the growing season. Use a balanced granular or water-soluble fertilizer, for instance, one with 20-20-20 on the label.

Robin- Congratulations on your upcoming wedding. We love the idea of floating zinnia heads in water as centerpieces. Zinnias like to be spaced about 8 to 12 inches apart, so check your pots and see if they come close to that measurement. Zinnias do not like temperatures below 60 degrees, so when your area warms up, you can begin to harden off the seedlings. It should take about 10 to 14 days to finish the hardening off process. We can't say for sure how many blooms you will have per plant, but deadheading is the best way to keep the blooms continuous. When flowers wilt, cut back to the nearest leaves on the stem.

As mentioned above, zinnias prefer to be seeded in the ground and not transplanted. Just back out the maturity dates from the back of the seed pack, and stagger the plantings so you have a chance of hitting your dates.

Regular applications of a complete fertilizer will aid in growth and flower development. (A complete fertilizer contains nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in equal amounts such as a "10-10-10." Speak to your local nursery.

I'm using zinnias for my science fair project too! Woah, what a coincidence! It's pretty cold where I live too but I have this window sill that's working great for me. You should put the zinnias near a window where the won't be harmed. Just set up a little table out of books, papers, etc... Just make sure It's pretty stable so that if you touch it or something it doesn't fall over or anything. Light bulbs should be the very last thing to consider. They're not as effective as sunlight which will affect the growth. Water the zinnia once every other day.I hope this helps and I still can't believe we're both using the same plant for a science fair project! Good luck on your project. :)

Yes, your flower seeds should be fine if they were fully developed before being exposed to a freeze.

Plant zinnia seeds outdoors after frost danger has passed, or indoors 4 weeks before the last spring frost. To germinate, the soil should be at a temperature of 70 F to 75 F. Also, be sure to give zinnia space; crowding encourages disease.

Zinnias are annuals which can bloom through fall and even early winter in some regions, but they really don't last through winter. They need lots of direct sunlight and won't thrive with indoor light.  Enjoy the bright blooms as long as they will last!

Unfortunately, your zinnias may have a disease: leaf spot fungus or early blight. Can you take them back to the place where you bought them and ask them to diagnose and perhaps a refund if you just bought them? If you have these problems, you may need to discard of them in the trash; do not throw in your compost or yard as the disease can spread. Tips: Buy disease resistant hybrids, use a fungicide for the two problems above, and avoid watering on the leaves; water at soil level.

Many seed companies offer zinnia hybrid seeds. Here is one example: http://www.burpee.com/flowers/zinnias/zinnia-zowie-hybrid..." target="_blank">http://www.burpee.com/flowers/zinnias/zinnia-zowie-hybrid... Just type "Zinnia Hybrid Seeds" into Google and find a seed company that you like!

Zinnias are perfect cutting flowers! We have a huge cutting garden of zinnias right down the road here in New Hampshire and go all the time. "Pumila" or "Cut And Come Again" is an old favorite for cutting and offers an almost continuous bloom for several months which may make it more likely that you hit her wedding date. They have a lovely rounded blossom form and many stems for cutting. Just back out the "days to maturity" and stagger your plantings to have a chance at hitting her date. We're glad to hear you're realistic about it all!

Many thanks, Oscar. Wishing you colorful, plentiful zinnias!

Zinnias are annuals. Remove the plants at the end of the season and replant next spring.

Zinnias generally take 35 to 60 days to bloom, though it depends on the variety. Your seed packet should tell you the days to maturity.  Then back out the days to find out when to seed. They won't grow or bloom after the first fall frost. In most regions, mid-August would be too late to plant. However, if you start in spring next year, you could stagger the plantings through mid-summer and have zinnias blooming most of the season!

Wait until the flower petals have dried and fallen off. Pick the seed head when it is dark brown and dry and rub it between you fingers to remove the flat dried seeds.

You need to identify the pest. Lacey leaves are often the work of a Japanese beatle. They are easy to spot. It's best to just pick these off with gloved hands. Or, just fill a coffee can with some dish soap. Tap the leaves so that the bugs fall into the can. Otherwise, Sevin (Carboryl) will control them if sprayed regularly. 

Zinnias are great cut flowers. Yes, after you cut a flower, the plant will bloom. In fact, the more flowers you cut, the more the plants will produce for a long season of bloom. If a zinnia bloom is spent (has died), deadhead it -- pinch it off; this will also encourage more blooms.

Zinnias are actually one of the flowers that rabbits do not like. Look for slugs? We have a pest and problem library once you identify the culprit. http://www.almanac.com/topics/gardening/pests-and-problem...

One zinnia plant can have different colored blossoms. Zinnias can even have more than one color on each petal!

It's difficult for us to confirm a diagnosis online. You may have zinnia leaf curl virus or it could be a mite or other insect. To confirm, we would suggest that you submit plant samples to your local cooperative extension. You didn't mention where you live but here is a list of cooperative extensions across the country: http://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-serv... We would love to hear what you learned. All the best.

In general, prune just above the point where the dead flower and its stalk meets the first leaves or buds (as you go down the stem from the flower). Be sure not to damage the leaves/buds when you make your cut.

Ordinary garden soil is fine. Just make sure your soil is well drained and do not crowd them as zinnias need good air circulation. Also, avoid overhead water or splashing water on their leaves. Wetness and crowded conditions can lead to disease.

Expect blooms in late spring/early summer. You can pinch 'Purple Prince' zinnia plants to encourage branching, which is desirable, unless you are growing them for cut flowers.

Any & all flowers I grow from seed, I start them in a cardboard container(Toilet paper tube/paper towel tube that has been cut short, etc) so that when the time comes to plant it in my flower garden, I just plant the whole container with the plants inside...that way, the roots never get disturbed in any way, & as for the cardboard container, eventually it will decompose which also feeds the plant.

After you thin your zinnias to recommended spacing for your variety, you can certainly try to transplant the extras. However, know that zinnias prefer not to be transplanted. They like to be sown in the ground and grow very quickly that way. If you try this out, be sure to limit root disturbance and transplant shock. Loosen the soil all around the root and use your hands to gently remove the roots and limit the exposure to sun.

Space plants 4 to 24 inches apart depending on variety. Usually, the back of seed package will advise. (Many popular cultivars are 6 inches.)

Zinnias don't like being transplanted. Sow seeds in peat pots that can be directly transplanted into the garden. It's ideal to just sow seeds directly in the garden when the soil is warmed above 60 degrees, they germinate in just 5 to 7 days and, once germinated, they grow quickly. If seedlings are flimsy or falling over, it's often due to lack of sunlight and/or not enough air circulation/crowding. They are sun lovers who need lots of direct sunlight.

Zinnias need room to grow, you have WAY too many in that small pot! I use a 20" pot for 2-3 zinnias that will grow about 36" tall and YES, they will need to be tied up.. I usually just tie them to the deck rail!

You also may not have given them enough light as they were starting. Without enough light, seedings get "leggy" (long, spindly stems). Did you have your plant light about 2" from the seedlings? You can try transplanting them a little deeper than they were in their pots.

It may be that the original zinnias that you had planted were hybrids. In this case, you will not usually have offspring from these plants looking/behaving like the parents--in other words, they do not "come true" from seed. Instead, each seedling may exhibit different combinations of traits. Some of these traits may not be as good as the original hybrid, or they might be more desirable. For example, vigor may be less than the original hybrid, while flowers might bloom earlier. For seedlings to look/act like the original hybrids, you'll need to buy more seeds of the same zinnia variety. Also, in general, look for open-pollinated varieties. Unless there is cross-pollination with another variety, they should come true from seed if you'd like to save seeds for next year.

Zinnias should be planted outside after the last expected spring frost. For the northern part of Texas, this can be in early April to early May. We'd suggest that you find the last expected spring frost date for your specific area by contacting your county's Cooperative Extension. You can find the contact information at: http://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-serv... It sounds like it is too early for your area, in which case you could still start the zinnias indoors four to six weeks before the last spring frost and transplant them outdoors once the threat of frost has passed. Hope this helps!

According to our friends at Burpee, "Zinnias don't like being transplanted. Sow seeds in peat pots that can be directly transplanted into the garden. Place zinnia seeds on soil surface and lightly press into the surface. Cover with 1/4 inch of soil. Lightly water and cover with clear plastic or glass to keep seeds from drying out. Seeds should germinate in 4 to 7 days. Once up, remove cover and keep soil evenly moist."

Here's a tip: Save the seeds while they are still on the plant, not after you deadhead it. Instead of deadheading all the dying flowers, let some just dry out. The seeds will be attached to shriveled petals and they are ready to harvest when they darken and become dry. Let the seeds form, mature and dry on the plant before you collect and store them. Some plants distribute their seed when their seedpods explode, flinging the seeds away from the parent plant. Make sure to harvest before this occurs or fasten a fine mesh or paper bag over the seed heads to catch the seeds.

7 years ago I bought 5 packages of zinnia seed for my grandchildren to plant in my flower beds. I have never replant a single seed and I have the most lush beautiful zinnias every where every year. They simply reseed themselves all over my flower beds and even my lawn. My problem is I have a hard time pulling out the ones which come up where they aren't wanted. I love my zinnias!!!!

If it is the bottom leaves that turn brown it's normal for zinnias. If you have brown spots on the leaves it could be leaf spot disease. Try not to get water on the leaves. Keep them dry.

It is possible that your plants have a virus; if so, you'll need to remove the plants. Viruses can create strange effects sometimes, such as twisted leaves or flowers, flowers with little or no petals, etc. We'd recommend asking your county's Cooperative Extension service to see what diseases are prevalent in your area that might be affecting your zinnias. They might also be able to diagnose your plant if you give them a sample. For contact information, go to: http://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-serv... Be sure that the soil is not highly alkaline. Zinnias like a soil pH of between 5.5 and 7.5. Check the level of boron--a lack can cause stunted growth and bud blasting. Hope this helps!

Avoid overcrowding of plants and provide good air movement. Then spray the plants with a mix of 1 quart of water and 1 teaspoon baking soda. Or try spraying with a 50/50 mixture of low-fat milk and water once a week. The "Profusion" series of zinnia is very resistant to powdery mildew if you can find the seeds in Australia. Good luck!

Zinnias like hot weather and they are height-of-summer flowers. You can grow indoors, but you will need lots of intense light and heat via grow lights and heat lamps for germination and growth. It would be best to seed closer to spring.

Why not try? But probably, zinnias grown through the winter without much light will become dwarfed or stunted and will not take off and bloom in the spring. So seed more zinnias indoors or directly in garden at the appropriate time in spring.

Zinnias love warmth, and will not survive for long after a frost. If you live in an area that gets frost, then it is best to sow seed directly outdoors after the last expected spring frost. Or, you can start them earlier indoors, but set them out after threat of frost is past. In Zones 10 and 11, you can plant a second crop in September or October for autumn flowers. November is likely getting too cool at night for the plants to thrive.

We hope that you enjoyed your colorful zinnias! They will not bloom next year. Zinnias are annuals. They generally do not survive frost, so it is time to remove them completely. Next spring, start seeds outdoors after frost danger has passed, or indoors 4 weeks before the last spring frost.

You are correct: On paper (and in other media), zinnias are deer-resistant. Maybe, as you say, nobody has told the deer. Sources we checked suggest that this idea is not necessarily guaranteed; in fact, no plant is absolutely deer proof. When deer are hungry, they will eat almost anything. Apparently earwig have a taste for zinnia flowers; we're not sure if their little mouths can bite the tops clear off, as you say. Deadheading (aka disbudding, pinching back, heading back, cutting back and thinning) of zinnias should result in new blooms; deadheading is essentially clipping the tops clear off...like the deer apparently did. It should not be necessary to clip the stems below the leaves. We hope this helps! –Almanac editors

You'll want to water from the bottom. Avoid getting the foliage wet; it will help prevent disease.

We love zinnias, too, but they and other flowers can be finicky. Imagine: cutting a stem is a shock to a plant, so be kind: Do it early in the morning or in the evening, when the any dew or moisture has evaporated; essentially, do not cut them during the high heat of the day. Use clean tools. Be careful when handling; try not to crush the stems. (This advice applies to most cut flowers.) It may be that you are cutting (harvesting) your zinnias too soon in their maturity. These flowers do not continue to bloom after they are cut; only harvest them when they are fully open—and remove all of the leaves; the foliage does not last. Plunge the stems into warm (one source recommends about 100°F) water immediately. Bring them indoors as soon as you can after cutting. Some sources suggest cutting the stems again, at an angle—if you have not already—to encourage water to travel up the stem. Some sources suggest using floral preservative in the water in the vase with zinnias; other absolutely do not advise it. Use a clean vase and change the water frequently (once/day) to avoid algae. About the water: It is possible that your water is too “hard” (has an alkaline pH of 7 to 10 or so) or too soft (has an acidic pH of about 4 to 6). You could distill your water or buy deionized water. Or collect and use rain water—and see if it makes a difference. Keep you arrangement in a cool place; avoid sunny windows/sun and other warm places. Also, some plants are sensitive to ethylene gas that is given off by most fruits and vegetables—especially apples. (To be sure, some decaying flowers and stems give off ethylene gas, too.) So display your zinnia (and other flowers) at a distance from any fresh produce. That’s about all we know, and we hope this helps!

No, zinnias do not continue to bloom once cut. They're an annual that germinates from seed in only 5 to 7 days. Very easy and quick grower.

For a pure seed, you'd want to grow one zinnia variety at a time (or, they need to be 1/4 mile apart). Seeds are ready to harvest when the blooms begin to turn brown and dry. The seeds are contained in the very center. When the heads are completely dry, gently crush the heads between your hand and then carefully winnow away the chaff.

Reseach shows that deadheading zinnias keeps them blooming. to deadhead, just pinch off the flower along with the seed receptacle beneath the flower's base (i.e., not just the petals). If the flowers are starting to turn brown, they are probably just old blooms. Be careful not to splash the leaves when you water and give your zinnias liquid fertilizer once a month to keep them blooming.

Do you have evidence of bugs? Look for tiny bugs or honeydew. If so, spray with insecticidal soap. That is a possibility though browning foliage is usually powdery mildew which can be treated with a fungicide spray. Also, ensure that zinnia get LOTS of sun for blooms and never get watered from overhead; wet leaves causes the mildew.

Zinnias are the perfect beginner flower! They do prefer to have their seeds sowed directly into the ground, but it's possible to transplant in the ground (or pot) if you don't disturb their roots. On a cloudy morning, gently remove the entire contents of the cup and place in the ground so it's level with the soil. It's best to put mix organic matter or a slow-release fertilizer in the hole first (ask your garden center). Water deeply, but don't let it get waterlogged. Then just water and weed! Water when the soil is dry to the first knuckle of your finger and then water deeply so it gets to the roots (5 inches down). Then wait between waterings until the soil dries out. It's best to water infrequently and deeply. They should get a total of 1 inch of rain/water per week. How to tell what 1 inch is? Put out an empty tin tuna can and measure the rain! It's fun for kids.

I have two different plants and one of them has small blooms and the other is massively big i have used the same amount of miracle grow on them and they are still the same size. The more sun they get the bigger they get too.

Zinnas need LOTS of sun for full flower heads. They can also take a while to fully flower; some varieties are late summer bloomers.

Assuming they have lots of sun, some zinnia varieties are just late bloomers (August). They are fine in containers. Plant 6 inches apart. Zinnias are great companions for many annuals and also vegetables--from pole or bush beans to squash! They deter many insect pests and attract pollinators.

There are varieties of zinnias that have green blooms. They are a unique variety and I am planting quite a few this summer.

Yes, you can keep zinnias in containers. Just be sure to keep them well watered and moist since containers dry out more quickly. They'll still need lots of sunlight (6 hours a day). Feed the plants WEEKLY with a full strength, 5-10-5 fertilizer. (No timed-release fertilizer.) In terms of pot size, plant 1 zinnia per 6-inch pot, 3 zinnias per 10-inch pot, and 5 zinnias per 14-inch pot.

Zinnias are ready for production in full sun with a minimum daytime temperature of 60°F.