How to Grow Coneflowers (Echinacea): Complete Guide to Planting & Care

Sorry to hear about your coneflowers. They are such beautiful flowers, especially those prickly discs.

There is one pest, the Coneflower Rosette Mite, that are microscopic (very difficult to see without magnification) and live within the flower buds and suck nutrients from the base of the flowers. They can cause stunted and distorted flower parts, as well as green to reddish-green elongated rosette-like tufts that sprout from the tops or sides of the cones.

It also could be a sign of some sort of fungal disease or rot that is stemming from an issue with the roots.

Unfortunately, it is probably best to remove the infected flowers and put them in the trash—do not compost. In the fall, perform your annual cleanup maintenance and, if possible, pull up one of the flowers to see if there is any issue underground.

There are a few pests that will attack coneflowers with aphids being one of them. In large numbers, they can greatly affect the vitality of your plants. Using a soapy water solution is the best way to address an aphids issue. It can take a few treatments, but in the end it will help get rid of your infestation. 

Hi Alayna, If you go to this https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/echinacea-laevigata/" target="_blank">NC State extension page, it has helpful pictures of echinacea (aka coneflower) sprouting.

Thanks for sharing!

rabbits and coneflowers as soon as the new growth starts with those fresh wonderful greens here comes the bunnys, I put buckets with the bottoms cut out of the buckets and put them over the baby coneflowers until they get a big bigger

The coneflower will come back I make a cages out of that chicken wire it’s green little squares I form a circle once they get so big and hey don’t bother them anymore

A garden cat is amazing.

I'm not sure if UFOs had anything to do with it, but from the research I've done on herbicides, some are water soluble. This means that they can evaporate with water, be collected in rain water clouds, and then be dispersed throughout an area. If you have neighbors using herbicides, it's quite possible this happened. It's a really big and unspoken problem, especially since these chemicals can poison ground water and local ponds and lakes. Just some fruit for thought. I'd suggest should and water testing in the area. Truth is, if it's affecting the soil, it's probably affecting you too.

Denise, that very thing happens to me sometimes. Especially with my Vinca. They'll be doing fantastic, then it's like a switch is turned on or off and BOOM, they die. It's very frustrating isn't it??

Hi Nancy, When it comes to deer, they'll eat anything if they're desperate enough and lacking in habitat. Coneflowers are rated as "Seldom Severely Damaged."  There are some plants that are more deer-resistant ("Rarely Damaged") and many many plant that are occasionally, frequently, and/or severed damaged. For perennial plants that are rarely damaged, consider Russian Sage, Allium, Iris, False Indigo, Bleeding Heart, and Forget-Me-Not. 

A University of California expert suggests this: Round Up can linger for a while, maybe even longer than a month especially in a sandy soil in which it is not adsorbed to fine soil particles as it would in a clay. The solution to this predicament, and indeed in all cases of Round Up toxicity, is to let the plant grow out of it.

A U of Michigan Coop Extension source is more cautious; read here: https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/be_careful_using_round_up_a...">https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/be_careful_using_round_up_a...

Then there is the old adage, when in doubt, don't. Maybe you can talk to your neighbor and come to some agreement about how/when he applies it . . . or you can share your health concerns about both of you.

We can't make plants do what we want. If a plant likes and needs full sun, we need to give it full sun (see above). If we short change it, it will fail.

Something about that name, aster yellows, is appealing but in fact it is no fun. Aster yellows is a chronic, systemic disease that affects over 300 species in 38 families of broad-leaf, herbaceous plants. There is no cure. Victim and vulnerable plants should be removed and not planted there . . . again. Plant instead herbaceous plants (e.g., geraniums and impatiens) and woody ornamentals, which are not susceptible to aster yellows.

For the record, members of the aster family (Asteraceae), such as asters, marigolds, Coreopsis, and purple coneflower are commonly affected by this disease.
Vegetable crops such as carrots and potatoes are also susceptible. Aster yellows occurs throughout North America. (With thanks to Wisconsin Master Gardeners)

We're stumped. If the leaves are twisted, that's often a sign of herbicide damage; have any chemicals gotten near these plants or drifted over? 

Otherwise, distortion is usually due to Aster yellows but that's usually later in the season and very noticable because of yellowed petals and leaves. Use an insecticide labeled for use on the aster leafhopper to prevent the disease. Your county cooperative extension can advise you as to the best one to use in your area and the correct timing of the application

This seems to be an increasingly common problem, with an increasingly hard to find explanation. One reason that some echinacea thrive and others fail to thrive could be that one is native and the other, respectively, is a hybrid. Contact the source from which you got the plant and ask what he/she thinks...and if he/she will replace the plant.

I have a question. I’ve had good luck with my coneflowers. But I just noticed today that my gardener (for lack of a better word) mowed down all my coneflower stems from last summer/fall. They had not started blooming yet but I am wondering if they will come back. I love them so much and it would be hard to replace all of them at one time. I’m hoping for good news!! Thanks!!

It's best to plant Coneflowers (Echinacea) by seed. Seeds can be started outdoors in the spring or summer, up to 2 months before frost. Keep in mind that Echinacea started from seed can take 2 or more years to develop into a sizable plant.

Yes, you should plant coneflower seeds in the fall, covering them with approximately 1/4-inch of soil. Seedlings will emerge in the spring, though the plants may not bloom in the next season. They may need a summer to get established, then should bloom in the subsequent summer. 

same question please!

Please see the Care section, above, for information on deadheading coneflowers.

what type of coneflowers do you have? I've been wanting to plant some in my garden but not sure which to plant, do all coneflowers attract bees and butterflies?

Sure, try it! It's still relatively early in season, and bargain plants can be a good way to increase your stock. Check them over closely; pick the healthiest looking. If for some reason they fail, be ready to accept that outcome.

Keep covered with a frost cloth. Dead head the blooms and keep the plant nice an short. Put mulch around the mound of the stem and make sure you keep some kind of slow release fertilizer mixed in.

Hi, I live in Iowa. Our winters get a bit chilly -- hanging at -15F (-26C) for periods last winter. I cut the coneflowers to the ground in November. They are covered with snow for months, and they do fine the next year.

This is not just normal as it is the rule. Thee purple coneflower seedlings do not bloom the first summer, the plants die back and go dormant in late summer. This first-year dormancy is important and when plants develop strong roots. Plants flower in summer of the second year, and every year after that.

Try and keep the bigger leaves green. If they are yellowing or turning brown cut them off. In order to coax blooms fertilize and leave in the sun for at least 5 hours a day.

Well, what ever is the cause, it's not good. The plant is either infested or infected by leafhoppers and/or eriophid mites. The leafhoppers carry a disease in their saliva that causes the plant to fail in a variety of ways. The mite feeds on coneflower. These bugs lay eggs in the grass and hatch to tunnel up the stems of the flowers. You need to discard the plants and keep the lawn trimmed.

This is all a natural response to the heat and sunlight. Continue watering as usual, but not to excess in reaction to the wilting.

Hi John, I read your comment regarding your painting of a Lady tending cone flowers. I would be interested in seeing a photo of your painting. I love paintings that combine flowers and water. You said that you have no connection with anyone in the states. Where do you live? I'm from Michigan. Rose

Coneflowers should be divided every four or five years, provided that they are healthy enough to tolerate division, and that they are indeed in need of it. To divide a coneflower plant, gently lift the plant out of the ground with a shovel and remove any excess dirt. Untangle any intertwined roots, and depending on the size of the plant and how overgrown it is, you may be able to pull it apart at the base with your hands, or you may need to use a knife or pruning shears to cut apart the base. Leave several stems (rosettes) on each division and lightly trim back the longer roots if they seem excessive. That's really all there is to it! Dividing can be done in the spring or early fall.

I needed to move some coneflowers this spring. My soil is clay so I dug them up in pieces. I was not gentle. I planted them in a new bed. Aside from them needing some extra water until they established ( about 3 weeks) they have ALL flourished. Six weeks later they are all growing and flowering. I originally had two plants and now I have six. I would say you could divide them easily with just a shovel and plant them again. It’s a free way to get more plants.

It has to do with the pH/acidity levels of the soil. If it is too high or too low will affect flower coloring.

I had the same problem this year, in northern Vermont. Perhaps the winter was too cold for some coneflowers?

Hi, If you never deadhead them, they probably got overgrown and choked themselves out. I regularly and frequently deadhead mine. In late Fall, I leave the last blooms on for the finches when they show up looking for seeds. Here in Iowa, our winters can get a bit chilly -- hanging at -15F for periods last winter. I cut the coneflowers to the ground in November. They were covered with snow for months, and they came back with a vengeance this year -- bigger, taller, thicker, and more populous. Now, I have a lot of thinning to do. It's probably time for that, anyway, since they have been here a few years. Same thing with the daisies.

Yes, you can transplant (and/or divide) coneflowers in the fall. When digging them up, try not to disturb their roots too much, as they do not appreciate it. 

Please see our https://www.almanac.com/pest/rabbits">Rabbit Pest Page for tips on how to keep rabbits out of your garden.

We live in the woods. I can hardly keep any flowers around outside because of these little pests. Finally after trying every thing I could think of.....spray bottle of about 4 ozs water with a tablespoon of Murphys Oil. Shake and spray. I do this every few days. Even my small trees I planted. IT WORKS. Finally

I have just merely pulled them up and planted them and they do just fine. I live in Zone 7 in NW Georgia. What I need to know is do you cut them back in the late fall for the winter, If so how much do you leave of the plant?

Thanks for taking the time to scroll through the comments, Beth. We may have found a hint of solution to this puzzle: hybrids. A U of Illinois extension service columnist noted (in 2014) that she had similar experiences with coneflower soon after the introduction of unique Echinacea cultivars in the early 2000s. She records "so-so" results with several of the new plants, including death of some. And she reports having one plant bloom in two colors—one as advertised, so to speak, and one the traditional purple. And after it all, she says she is sticking with the traditional purple variety, Ehinacea purpurea. If you would like to read the column, it's here: http://web.extension.illinois.edu/dmp/eb259/entry_8671/

Finally! Thanks for being the one to bring this all to light!

The pH/acidity levels of the soil could be the culprit. If it is too high or too low it can affect flower coloring.

Echinacea (Coneflower) can give you a second showing in a fall. Pinching off deadheads isn't necessary (as it would be needed for some plants such as black-eyed susans) but it does help keep the plant neat.

There are a few different pests that could be doing the damage. Common culprits are Japanese beetles, earwigs, and cucumber beetles, though you would normally expect petals and foliage to be left with holes or chunks missing, rather than be completely eaten. If your plants are low enough to the ground, the damage could be caused by rabbits, too. See our https://www.almanac.com/gardening/pests-and-diseases">Pest Pages for more information. To really figure out what is eating your plants, you may have to do some detective work. Check the undersides of leaves and in the soil around the plants, and investigate at night to see if you can catch a bug in the act. Good luck!

Cut the flower off just above the nearest leaf node to encourage more blooms. You can save the flower head if you'd like to collect the seeds for planting. Note that coneflower seeds are a favorite food of goldfinches, so leaving a few blooms on the plant will not only result in automatic reseeding, but also very happy birds.

You're in luck! Either's fine. Put two inches of organic matter (compost or manure) around coneflowers. That's all they need--no other fertilizer. But if you use manure, it should be aged enough that it's brown and crumbly and no longer heating up the soil when you turn or mix it.

We have heard of some "White Swan" coneflowers reverting to purple. Or, it's possible that your plant was a hybrid cross between white and purple and dropped a seed last year that grew purple? Hard to say!

Unfortunately, if you're not seeing any sign of life by mid-summer, the coneflowers likely did not make it. For future plantings, keep in mind that coneflowers prefer well-drained soil that's on the drier side. If they are planted in a particularly wet area, their roots may rot. 

Coneflowers are not hardy for zones 10 and 11. See the zone list at the top of this page (on right side).

So far as we can tell, the soil would have to be extremely unsuitable to have an effect on the flower color. Is it possible that the plant tag is/was not accurate? (Sometimes tags get switched in nurseries by accident.)  We suggest that you contact the source and ask them your color questions.

It could be that they are not getting enough sun or the soil conditions aren't favorable, or there are insufficient nutrients--or some combination of these stress factors. Next year, try fertilizing them regularly. If they don't bloom again, you might want to transplant them into a sunnier location (if possible) with soil amended with compost.

Honey bees certainly love to forage on coneflowers (Echinacea) for their pollen.  They tend to visit many flowers to make honey, such as clover and borage, so it would be hard for us to know what a pure coneflower honey might taste like.  Let us know if you find out!

Hi Vicki,

As with all perennial plants, it is a good idea to let them die back to the ground naturally. They may not be flowering but they are still photosynthesizing. Allowing that process to continue late into the fall enables them to store energy for the winter (and ultimately, for the next growing season).

Hi Joan,

You will want to plant them individually. If you have 4-inch pots (a standard size for transplants), space them 18 to 24 inches apart (this helps with air circulation--a preventative measure to stave off powdery mildew). Individual plants typically grow 2 to 3 feet wide, at which point dividing them is a good idea to keep that air circulating!

It is difficult to diagnose a problem after just a few days. They may be suffering from transplant shock, though that typically results in drooping, not browning. All things being equal (same plant species, soil conditions, light exposure, watering regime, etc.) it could be that two of the five just weren't destined to make it. That does happen. Maybe they had different treatment at the nursery.

i am also in NC. this is my first year with coneflowers. my goal was to keep them in large (5 gallon) flower pots. just a few weeks after planting they started dying. bottom leaves brown and crunchy. if was definitely not from lack of water- and i don't think i overwatered either. anyway, after one completely died--I went ahead and planted them in the ground today. I don't know what will happen now.

While summer is not the ideal time to move plants, it can be done. Soak them really well before digging them, prep the area into which they will be going, dig as wide as possible around the base so as to limit feeder root damage, plant them right away, water again, and mulch. Then monitor them. You will probably need to water more than you normally would. They will likely droop a bit while they get reestablished, but with a little care, they should be fine.

It's true that happy coneflowers can grow with vigor and possibly shade out less vigorous plants. The ticket to keeping both species is to be sure to divide your coneflowers every other season, and save and disperse the seeds of your poppies. By editing the coneflower and aiding seed dispersal of the poppies, you will help to give them a chance (and room) to propagate.

Coneflower can be very temperamental, especially if it is a hybrid. If it makes it past the first winter you have a good chance it will be around awhile. Since it should start blooming in July, if you have no greenery now it is probably dead. Many expert gardeners recommend treating coneflower hybrids as an annual and if it comes up in the spring that is a bonus!

Yes, groundhogs love coneflowers. I'm afraid trapping or disrupting their tunnel system is the only solution. If the groundhog just ate part of the plant, it may produce more buds, but the groundhog may also return.  Using pots is always a solution next time or you need to use fencing.

Only time will tell, Marie. Remove the leaves that are curling and turning color.

Hi, Thank you for your response. In addition to the leaves the stems are also spotted and the plants usually grow at a quick pace at this time of the year on Cape Cod. It appears all growth has stopped. If I cut the plants down to ground level do you think it may help? Also, it has poured several times since they were sprayed with the bleach. The bleach has probably entered the soil but could have been diluted. Thank you again.

The varieties may start growing at different times in the spring and some varieties may be hardier than others. If you know the varieties of your coneflowers you can do some research online to find out about their growing habit and hardiness. The link below may be helpful.

http://www.coneflower.com/

Did you keep the seeds moist? Sun will dry soil pretty quickly, and most seeds need moisture in order to germinate.

Did you set them at the proper depth (check the seed packet)? If they are too deep they may not set.

Never give up. I honestly think that moisture may be what's missing.

Your plants will grow back but you may not have as many flowers as last year. Think of it as heavy pruning.

Hi, Denise: If you can find absolutely no trace of the plants, including stems and leaves, you may indeed have a mystery on your hands--unless you live in Area 51, that is, and this is some kind of X-Files thing. But  echinacea is tasty to a lot of critters, and many will just haul away the seedhead--and sometimes anything attached to it--for further inspection elsewhere. Our guess? Deer. Thanks for asking!

Hi, Julie, Such a particular problem requires a particular response—and our experience with this particular combination of circumstances is shallow. So we sought out some people/sources who appear to be experts.

• This page suggests that the "vast majority of coneflower being propagated in Florida does not come from Florida stock" and so acts like annuals in Florida; this could be your problem: http://hawthornhillwildflowers.blogspot.com/2013/07/purpl...

• This page says that Purple Coneflower is native, but can be vulnerable to slugs: http://orange.ifas.ufl.edu/res_hort/pp.html#Purple%20Cone...

• As the first link suggests, there are several varieties of coneflower, more still because they were produced/introduced in a rainbow of colors a few years ago. It's not clear what your hybrid is, and that's why this page may be of interest. Scroll down through the alphabet of plants on this page until you get to "Cone Flower." You'll see a picture of a YELLOW—not PURPLE—flower. The text indicates that this variety is native to Florida and thus more likely to thrive. http://nassau.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/gardentalk/flower... (Pls note that there is a plant sale mentioned in this text; we have absolutely no information on that event; contact the source of the page for more information.)

We hope this helps! Gardening is always an experiment in nature.

If your plants are healthy and had a good-size rootball when you planted them they should be fine. You can add mulch around the plants when the ground freezes.

Coneflowers prefer full sun and lean, dry soil. Usually the stems are very sturdy but there could be many factors causing yours to bend. Are there borers living in the stems? Did you over-fertilize which causes rapid weak growth? Did they get too much water? Is the soil heavy and wet? Try moving them to a sunny spot with sandy soil and see if that helps.

If the seedheads are nice and dry you can plant them in the ground. You may want to break the heads open and take out the individual seeds to plant. Just remember that the seeds need at least 2 to 3 weeks of chilling temperatures to germinate. If you have cold winters you are all set.

Hi Pat, Cut off the dead flowers to prolong the blooming season and prevent excessive self-seeding. If your plants are floppy, cut them to the ground after they are done blooming. To attract birds, keep the late-season flowers on the plants to mature.

You may have a coneflower rosette mite problem. See link page at http://bygl.osu.edu/content/distorted-coneflowers-0.

Too much moisture on the leaves and stems can cause them to turn brown. Make sure there is air circulation around the plants and if you need to water only water the soil around the plants. Brown spots on the leaves can also be caused by bacterial leaf spot disease.

Coneflowers do indeed wilt in more drought-like conditions, but will recover with the evening dew. It sounds as though it is hot and they are thirsty and need more water to get them through the summer days.

Yes, you can keep it alive in a pot. To help it go dormant this winter, leave the pot outside. If you are concerned that the pot might be buried in snow when you are set to move, you can also store it in the refrigerator. The best time of year to transplant is spring or fall. Good luck!

As you probably know, this plant does not ask for much. However, if you have not had much rain, keep it well watered (in well draining soil). You can also try working in a small amount of well composted material into the soil. More than that, we are not aware of what might be amiss. Wait and see what happens.

Hi Lori, I'm a few years late but my reply might help someone with a similar problem. Some types of coneflowers are biannual. I'm in zone 4-5. I had planted Green headed and Grey headed coneflowers (color refers to tge eye as the petals are yellow) from seedlings few years ago. They grew a few inches the first year and no flowers. The second year they took off and are over 5 feet tall and covered with flowers.

Hi, Melanie: If you live near Winnipeg, it is more likely that you are in Zone 3 or even 4, which should be fine. Sometimes, though, site-specific microclimates can be colder (or warmer, for that matter) than we think, so you never know. Assuming that your plant didn't have some underlying pest issue that wasn't obvious last year, it could be that it is just waiting for the soil to get warmer. It seems as if you should be OK. Thanks for asking!

Coneflowers are susceptible to disease because they're often overcrowded or water is getting on the leaves. This causes some form of leaf spot. The solution is to water in a way that keeps moisture off the leaves and stems. Apply a fungicide to protect healthy plants.

Hi Amy,

Wait to see if the plants will start growing in the pot before planting in the ground. Give the pot some water and put it in a sunny spot. The flowers may have survived depending on where you live and how cold the winter was.

Hi Eden,

Did the plants come in small pots? We suggest that you plant them in bigger containers and keep them indoors. When the weather warms up you can plant the coneflowers in the garden.

If the plants are not too tiny they will grow and produce flowers this year.

Sinking a pot into the soil will protect the rootball. Plant your coneflowers in big plastic pots and they should be fine. Some readers have lined a hole in the garden with fine chicken wire and then planted the flowers inside the "cage" and filled in with soil.

Hi Sandi,

If you use pre emergents to kill the fox tails you will not be able to plant your flower seeds in that location next year. Collect the dried seed heads and seeds from your flowers this fall and store them in envelopes or containers over the winter. Next spring plant them in different spot or build a raised bed with fresh soil.

I would get rid of the roundup and all chemicals for next year. They are toxic for butterflies and bees.

Good morning, Our Almanac Garden Guide Editor reviewed your problem and, even though we don't have a picture, she finetuned our dianosis. She says it sounds more like eriophyid mites (tiny worms) or sunflower moth larvae. Here is more information:

http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/plants/landscape/fl...

http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/ncnu02/pdf/letchamo-51...

If you do wish to email a photo, you can send it to: AlmanacEditors@yankeepub.com

We hope this helps. Sincerely, your OFA editors

The plants will come back next year but maybe not as big and strong as in past years. We suggest that you come up with a plan to protect them so that critters will not be able  to eat them next season. Maybe a fence or move them to a different area of your garden.

I read about something called Aster yellows this may be what you are experiencing.

Hi Roena,

Too much water can cause cone flowers to turn brown or black and wither. They grow best in dry to slightly moist soil.

Hi, Hoosier1: 1. Read and follow the care tips above. 2. Watch for pests. 3. Make sure they don't get too hot. They can definitely take full sun, but feel free to move them temporarily into partial shade or to where there's a breeze on a scorcher. 4. Take this off your list, chill, and have a great wedding. Congratulations to your daughter from The OFA -- and you can quote us!

That's one prediction that we can not make with certainty, Gina.

We can tell you that the best results of dividing, or planting the roots of, coneflowers (aka echinacea) are achieved by taking a "good-size" clump of a thriving plant—not small pieces in hopes of setting more plants. Ideally, the soil should be broken up a bit (not compact) so the roots have room to roam. And the soil should be kept moist but not wet.

If division is done when the plant is dormant, too much water could cause root rot. March to September are the most propitious times for dividing this plant.

If you have woodchucks (groundhogs) or rabbits around, they particularly like coneflower. If it is just the petals missing, it may be earwigs.

No, the same is not true of coneflower.

It's the power of sprayer!

What was in your sprayer previous to the bug spray? Sounds like you had weed killer in it. After spraying, wash your sprayer with cold water, then hot soapy water, then rinse again with cold. Otherwise have separate sprayer for bug spray.

If you have finches in your area it could be them. For whatever reason, finches love to eat my coneflower leaves.

Hi Marcia,

It's recommended to pinch coneflowers back before they start budding. You can cut some of the stalks without buds back and then after the blossoms fade cut those stem shorter than you usually do when deadheading.

Hi Kathleen,

It sounds like you have Alternaria leaf spot or Bacterial leaf spot. Keep moisture off the leaves and stems when you water. Try using an organic copper spray.

Our only thought is that some of the hybrid coneflowers have not survived winters well and get root rot. Stick to the pure coneflowers. Also, try leaving the stalks through the winter. And make sure they are in a place that gets FULL Sun.

I don't know about coneflowers but gophers did the same thing to my garlic plants. They disappeared one by one till they were all gone

The same thing happened to all my Echinacea. It' the voles (not moles but voles). They love the roots and will eat anything from below. I learned the hard way for about 5 years. Every year I bought and replanted new coneflowers and they were eaten by the voles. I have since then researched everything and tried all possible ways to get rid of the little critters. To no avail. I dug up what was left and planted all my coneflowers in wire baskets with less than 1/4" holes into the ground and that has solved the problem although any roots that grow through the holes still get eaten. Hope this helps!

Just remove dead foliage and stems in the fall, winter or early spring. We tend to wait until after the winter as the seed heads are great for the winter birds. You can cut coneflowers down to 3 inches from the base. They are perennials and will return.

This page is for "coneflowers" and not cockscomb. Baker Creek is a good source: http://www.rareseeds.com/store/flowers/cockscomb-and-celo...

I think you mean cockscomb or celosia. I would think any nursery would have seeds. You can also purchase the plants at most any nursery in the spring.

Yes, you can sow the seeds of coneflowers (Echinacia) in pots indoors with an air temperature of 65 to 70 °F. Cover very lightly with potting soil and keep the pots misted until germination occurs (10 to 20 days). Transplant in the ground 20 to 28 days after sowing in the spring or summer, up to 2 months before frost. Keep in mind that Echinacea started from seed can take 2 or more years to develop into a sizable plant.
As stated above, coneflowers are perennials--which means that they come back year after year.
Note that all perennials require a period of dormancy or a cold treatment to bloom so it's not advisable to keep the plant in the pot unless you can find a way to winterize it.

Fall is a perfect time to sow coneflower seeds. Just sprinkle the dried seeds on the soil. They need light to germinate in the spring.

Hi Lauren, Cone flowers are resilient. Plant it in the ground and put some mulch around it. Spring and fall are the best times to transplant. Good luck!

Seeds may be sown outside in late fall or stored and sown in the spring. Collect mature seedheads in the fall and break them open to extract seeds. Coneflowers, unlike some plants, need cold-moist stratification for two months improves germination. Place the seeds in the refrigerator for two weeks prior to starting. When you do plant, expose the seeds to light first on the soil surface before you pat them into the ground.

Yes, coneflowers self-seed. They drop their seed in the fall.  Or, you can harvest the seeds in late fall after they dry on the plant. Store in a dry place and replant in spring.

The only thing we can find is that "aster-yellows" will cause central cones to mutate and sprout leaves and green flowers. This is a disease that indicates a sick plant and they would need to be pulled out.  However, before jumping to any conclusions, we would bring a sample to your county cooperative extension of garden nursery.

I'm afraid that your coneflowers may have a disease called asters yellows. It comes from infected leafhoppers. Once infected, it is a lost cause since the disease is incurable. Bring a sample to your local cooperative extension or garden nursury to confirm diagnosis. If confirmed, you need to remove the plants and, for the foreseeable future, look for less susceptible plants such as verbena, salvia, nicotiana, geranium, cockscomb, and impatiens.

It's difficult to answer this correctly without seeing the plant that you suspect might be a weed. Here's what we can tell you: First, nothing is guaranteed, so it's possible that the plant you put into a pot failed to thrive and that is indeed a weed. This plant likes sun, well-drained soil, not a lot of water, and not very fertile soil. If you think you have cared for it properly, you could consider taking it to a nursery or the like so that someone could see what you've got, that is, of course, if the pot is manageable.

Good question. It's preference. If there aren't more buds, you could just cut down the stalk or some people like to cut to the leaf. If you still have buds, cut above the new bud. When you're nearing the end of the season, you could just leave the seed heads on—and they will self-seed or attract feathered friends.

Nope, cut your coneflowers when they're done blooming if you want to do so. If you want them to self-seed, leave the flower heads for the birds over the winter-and you may get new spouts next season! If you don't want your coneflowers to spread, cut them down.

Coneflowers need to be divided every 3 to 4 years to keep blooming well. In the spring, as new growth starts, lift the plants, divide them into clumps, and replant spaced apart.

Hi, Rolande, You can deadhead coneflowers after the blooms get spent to encourage more blooming if you wish (though not required). Leave some seeds for the birds. Cut back half the plants in June for later flowing. Then, you can leave the coneflowers standing through winter if you wish. And, yes, you can cut all of them down to the ground after a hard frost. If you live in a cold area, add some light mulch. They are perennials and you'll see them again next season!

Unfortunately, "plenty of rain" may be the problem. Damp conditions that results from excess water/rain can result in a fungal disease that affects the root, or crown. Contact a nurseryman or county extension agent to get confirmation, either by describing or even uprooting and showing a plant. A fungicide might be recommended. Coneflower is drought tolerant; the opposite of that--wet--challenges them. Best wishes for more blooms!

Cone flowers usually bloom from mid-June until the first fall frost. If your plants are established and look healthy you should see buds soon. If this is the first year for the cone flowers in your garden they may not flower. They spend the first summer putting down a strong root system and next year you should see plenty of flowers!

Had the same thing happen last year but this year also very bushy have 3 flowers so far. Shocked they are white! Ordered purple, sigh, have grown attached after the wait. Am in LA..

my cone flowers are being eaten, too! Supposedly they are deer resistant, we are thinking maybe groundhogs?

Rabbits like to eat coneflower foliage. Hot pepper wax sprays make leaves less appealing to the rabbits. Birds also love to pluck the leaves. Aphids and Japanese beetles are common culprits. Another common insect pest is the eriophyid mite. They are microscopic in size --which is why you don't see them -- and live inside the flower buds where they suck nutrients from the flowers. Damage results in tufts of stunted and distorted flower parts sprouting from the coneflower. Plants that are affected by eriophyid mites should be cut back to the ground in the fall and all plant debris should be removed and destroyed.

Add some compost to the soil around the plants and put down some mulch to keep the soil moist and weed free. Divide the plants every 3 to 4 years.

If you have deformed coneflower flowers with scarce petals, this sounds as if you have a flower disease called Aster yellows. Unfortunately, the flowers have to be pulled. See more: http://hort.uwex.edu/articles/aster-yellows/

it is a disease that there is no known cure for. just cut of the heads, make sure you throw them in the garbage not the compost. and hope for the best next time they come up. We have had this happen on most of ours, as we have over 55 different ones.

i am getting some seeds from the seed exchange and need to plant them what does stratisty mean? Can u help me? Thanks, Jackie