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How to Grow Black-eyed Susans: The Complete Black-eyed Susan Flower Guide

Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta)in a field

Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia)

Photo Credit
Flower_Garden/Shutterstock
Botanical Name
Rudbeckia hirta and other species
Plant Type
Flowers
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Part Sun
Bloom Time
Summer
Fall
Flower Color
Orange
Red
Yellow
Hardiness Zone
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Special Features
Attracts Butterflies

Planting, Growing, and Caring for Black-eyed Susans

Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Beloved by pollinators, black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta) generally bloom from June to August, often blanketing open fields with their golden-yellow beauty. Learn how to care for this native wildflower, when to cut it back, and how to save seeds for replanting.

What Are Black-eyed Susans?

The “black eye” of black-eyed Susans refers to the dark brown center of their daisy-like flower heads. A member of the aster family, Asteraceae, and native to eastern North America, they have become naturalized in Zones 3 to 9. While some species of black-eyed Susans have additional names, such as Gloriosa daisies, they all belong to the Rudbeckia genus. The popular Rudbeckia hirta is treated as a short-lived perennial.

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Field of bright yellow black-eyed susan flowers.
Black-eyed Susans are a natural for hot weather. 

Black-eyed Susans grow 1 to 3 feet tall or more, with leaves 6 inches long, stalks over 8 inches long, and flowers 2 to 3 inches in diameter. In the garden, they do well in landscapes, borders, butterfly gardens, or containers. They are also outstanding cut flowers.

Butterflies, bees, and other insects are attracted to the flowers for the nectar. As they drink the nectar, they move pollen from one plant to another, causing it to grow seeds that can move about easily with the wind. “The Silvery Checkerspot butterfly uses Rudbeckia species as a host plant,” explains the University of Maryland. “Seed is consumed by songbirds, especially goldfinches.”

Black-eyed Susans are Sun worshipers who forgive neglect and are tough as nails. However, avoid overcrowding these plants or watering their leaves (vs. soil level), which can lead to fungal disease

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Planting

The black-eyed Susan thrives in full sunshine. It tolerates partial sun, but it will not bloom as reliably. It’s best if the soil is fertile (not poor), though this plant can tolerate tough conditions.

When to Plant Black-eyed Susan

  • Set new plants out in the spring after all danger has passed or plant in the fall. The optimal soil temperature for germination is 70° to 75° F. Do not plant in the hot summer.
  • If planting by seed, sow seeds about 6 weeks before the average last frost.

How to Plant Black-eyed Susan

  • Plants should be set 18 inches apart. Remove weeds and loosen the soil. Make a hole a few inches wider than the plant and set it in the hole; backfill it with soil, tamp gently, and water it well.
  • If planting from seed indoors, sprinkle seeds on top of the regular seed starting mix. Do not cover the seeds, as they need light to germinate. Plant your seedlings outdoors after any danger of frost has passed. Since black-eyed Susans can spread between 12 to 18 inches, plant seeds closer to prevent lots of spreading, or plant further apart to make a nice border and to prevent the spread of disease.
  • Black-eyed Susan spreads by self-seeding (after the first year) and underground rhizomes; this can result in it overtaking other nearby flowers.
Though short-lived as perennials, Rudbeckia hirta self-seeds readily. Credit: Mariia Boiko

Growing

  • Check plants regularly to see if they need watering. Avoid letting them dry out, and avoid excess moisture on the leaves, as this can encourage disease. (Provide plants with proper spacing.)
  • Deadhead the flowers any time of year (remove the faded/dead flowers) to prolong blooming and minimize self-seeding.
  • Remove dead plant material in the spring to reduce the risk of infection.
  • Divide perennial types every 3 to 4 years to ensure healthy plants and prevent excessive spreading.

Should You Cut Back Black-Eyed Susans

When it comes to black-eyed susans, we prefer to delay cutting back until spring. 

  • This plant is a favorite with wildlife, native insects, and birds with its dried seeds.
  • In addition, overwintering birds find protection in plant stubs and ground covers.
  • Plus, the mound of foliage will insulate the roots and protect the plant over winter. 

However, black-eyed Susans are a big reseeder. To avoid this, cut the spent flowers back just below the mound of foliage.

Types

As well as the traditional black-eyed Susans, which grow 1 to 3 feet tall (or more), there are dwarf varieties that reach no more than 1 foot (perfect for containers). Varieties can be annual, biennial, or perennial.

The popular roadside Rudbeckia hirta with showy yellow flowers is a biennial in the wild but treated as a short-lived perennial in the garden. It self-seeds abundantly, naturalizing easily. If you sow seeds 6 weeks before the last frost date, you’ll see flowers in the first year, and they may return a few more seasons (but you can’t always count on it). Some of its many hybrids include:

  • ‘Autumn Colors’: yellow, orange, red, and brown flowers; 18- to 24-inch stems
  • ‘Becky Mixed’: lemon-yellow, golden-yellow, dark red, and reddish-brown flowers; 10- to 16-inch stems
  • ‘Prairie Sun’: All-America Selections winner; 4- to 6-inch bright orange flowers that fade to yellow at the tips; 28- to 23-inch stems. See AAS Winning Rudbeckia varieties!
  • ‘Sonora’: large golden flowers with big, chocolate-brown centers; 12- to 16-inch stems
  • ‘Toto Gold’: dwarf type; classic yellow flowers with black centers; 12- to 16-inch stems; ideal for containers

There are also true, long-lasting perennials that will keep coming back and blooming year after year.

  • ‘Goldsturmm’ black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia fulgida ‘Goldstrum’), known for its longevity and a regular plant in late summer and fall gardens
  • ‘Sweet’ black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia subtomentosa), bearing taller flowers and ideal for more naturalized garden or meadow
  • ’Gloriosa Daisies’ (Rudbeckia hirta ‘Gloriosa’), 12 to 36 inches tall and tolerates partial shade; giant, bi-color double flowers.

Finally, some Rudbeckia varieties are annuals, such as the Clasping Sunflower (Rudbeckia amplexicaulis), a low-growing plant for the front of a border garden.

Harvesting

Cut flowers for display just before buds completely open. Use large blooms as centerpieces and smaller ones as accents. Change the water every day to keep them fresh. Vase life is 8 to 10 days.

How to Collect Seeds of a Black-eyed Susan

Once the seed heads are dry and brown, it’s time to clip some stems. Pop off the seed heads from the stems and toss them in a small jar; close the lid and shake it to loosen the seedheads. Then, dump the seed heads from the jar into a sieve with a white piece of paper below it. Break up the seed heads in the sieve with your fingers. The seeds will come off and fall through the sieve onto the paper! Fold the paper in half and carefully funnel those seeds into a paper envelope. Close and label the envelope and store it in a cool, dry place. 

Learn more about how to save seeds for next year.

Gardening Products

Pests/Diseases

Black-eyed Susans are deer-resistant plants.
Diseases: powdery mildew, aster yellows, Botrytis blight, southern blight, angular leaf spot, fungal leaf spot, downy mildew, rust, white smut, Verticillium wilt.
Pests: aphids, nematodes, slugs, and snails

Wit and Wisdom

  • Black-eyed Susans are meant to symbolize justice. Find out more flower meanings here.
  • The genus name Rudbeckia honors Swedish scientists Olaus Rudbeck (1630–1702) and his son, Olof Rudbeck (1660–1740).
  • The species name hirta means “hairy” and refers to the short bristles that cover the leaves.
  • Black-eyed Susans are the state flower of Maryland.

Flowers
About The Author
Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann is the Executive Digital Editor of Almanac.com, the website companion of The Old Farmer's Almanac. She covers gardening, plants, pest control, soil composition, seasonal and moon c...
Read More from Catherine Boeckmann

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Comments

<span>Sp</span> Wed, 08/13/2014 - 17:47
Thank you so much for your reply. I know BES don't really like fertilizer. What would you suggest I enrich my soil with? Bone meal?? Also, last Winter was very cold with a lot of snow here in MD. Could that have caused this? Thanks again!
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Thu, 08/14/2014 - 10:29

Hi, again, Sp: The challenge here is that only some of your plants are underperforming. This usually means that these underperformers have not been getting or are not getting enough of something, whether it's space, warmth, water, nutrients, sun, etc. Bonemeal would not be a good choice, as its phosphorus is not really needed that much. Try a light (up to half-strength) solution of something like 10-5-20 (nitrogen-phosphorus-potash) once a week. Also, add a light layer of mulch to help retain moisture. Could it be cold damage? Well... possibly. Cold is bad, but then again, snow is good (insulator). Keep at it!

 <span>Cec The Farmer…</span> Thu, 08/07/2014 - 06:17

I recently purchased some distressed black-eyed Susan's that still have great blooms. They are in 1 quart pots and I need to plant them now. Spacing and depth is my concern. Please help with an answer.

<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Thu, 08/07/2014 - 10:35

Hi, Cec: The distressing is a little distressing, as we don't know what this was. Plant them at the same depth they are now in the pots, but in new, good soil -- topsoil amended with a little compost. It doesn't need to be too rich (actually, that's bad), but it needs to be good. We say plant about 18 inches apart. They will self-seed and fill in eventually. Too close together, and they are susceptible to disease. Farther apart to start means more air circulation. Hopefully, your gals are well enough to stand up on their own; if not, stake them till they get healthy. Water well and monitor. We hope they feel better!

 <span>John Gemper</span> Tue, 07/22/2014 - 15:00
I planted five plants in early spring. All have bloomed and ground well. The center plant has had the yellow peddles disappear. new flowers grow and the same thing happens. (just the yellow peddles) Now starting to happen to the nearest two plants. Your thoughts?
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Wed, 07/23/2014 - 12:25

We can't be certain but here are a couple of ideas:

• This plant is sensitive to day length; in fact, it is sometimes called a "long day" plant." As the daylength shortens, flowering is reduced and increasinglly malformed—although admittedly, the days are not yet very short.

• Could you have Prairie coneflower, which resembles bkac-eyed Susan? Its petals fall as its flower disk darkens.

 <span>Sara Clinger</span> Sun, 07/20/2014 - 16:28
I have a few acres of field behind my house that is completely covered in wild Black-eyed Susans that come back every year despite being mowed for hay. How can I transplant these ones to a better spot in my yard where I need some coverage and what is the best timing to do so?
<span>Dlb93</span> Thu, 07/31/2014 - 10:58
The best times are in the fall/October time frame or early spring/early April. just dig them up and transplant them. The roots could be up to a foot deep. it varies with each plant and how long they have been there. They are very hearty plants. They should do well. The more sun they get the better. At least for my plants. I transplanted my plants in April and they grew and bloomed by the end of June. Next year they should bloom sooner.
<span>Jessie Ryan</span> Wed, 07/16/2014 - 17:37
I noticed today that the stems of my black eyes Susans had been chewed off. Some of the leaves were eaten but the flowers and stems were still there. I looked for rabbit and deer droppings and didn't find anything. Does anyone know what could be do this?
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Thu, 07/17/2014 - 07:34

If this happened overnight, it would normally be a deer or rabbit or animal. They usually leave the stem and go for the leaves.

Otherwise, look carefully at the leaves. Caterpillars tend to chew holes in the leaves. Slugs chews ragged, irregular shaped holes in leaves that cross the veins. See our pests and critter library to I.D. and learn more: http://www.almanac.com/topics/gardening/pests-and-problems