How to Grow Celery: Planting, Growing & Harvesting Crisp Celery Stalks

I was just wondering what I should do should I tie it up cuz the celery has spread apart quite a ways I just wonder what I should do my celery is growing fabulous thank you for the information I appreciate it

Well, 2° to 3° C (35.6° to 37.4°F) temps would be significantly below the recommended minimum of 40°F, so it would be a close call. But covering the plants as you describe is better than doing nothing. Try to keep the covers from touching the plants. And remember, the thicker the blanket, the less the frost damage possibility.m

Yes, you can snip off the yellowing leaves. Once they've started to turn, they won't green up again.

Another thing to consider is that older leaves naturally die off over time, so this could be what you're seeing. Be careful not to overfertilize, too—you can have too much of a good thing!

We'll be frank. Celery is one of the more difficult vegetables at home. It is a cool-season crops that prefer temperatures in the 60 to 70 degree range for best performance. At higher temperatures,  celery will produce tough woody stalks. So consider your climate. Also, celery likes moist soil. Do not let the soil dry out. Moisture stress is the main cause of stringy, tough stalks. Celery also requires large amounts of fertilizer. Apply a complete fertilizer with the compost and then after transplanting, apply one half tablespoon of nitrogen fertilizer per four plants every two weeks throughout the summer. Too little fertilizer will not allow the stalks to grow tall and succulent.
 

Celery leaves tend to be more bitter than the stalks in general, but bitterness can be intensified by all the conditions you mentioned, including high temperatures, inconsistent moisture, and poor soil. The bitter taste also gets stronger as the plant matures, so consider harvesting the shoots when they're younger. Also look into blanching your celery before harvest—this can reduce bitterness, too. To blanch, loosely wrap the celery stalks with paper (newspaper works well) 2 to 3 weeks prior to harvesting. The stalks will lose their green color, but should also not be as bitter. 

I grow my celery from the small leftover from the stalks from the store. I use the celery down until there is only small growth and then splay toothpicks (small legs) into the bottom to support the stalk in an upright position and also about 3/4 inch from the bottom of the container and put water into the container to just a little over the root. Change the water frequently to keep it fresh. when it shows small roots transplant in rich soil and keep very wet. I live in Canada where the weather isn't really cooperative.

Only my second year gardening ever and celery was easy try utah

This is my first year planting ... stalks are quite thin! Will they get thicker??

Blanching helps to eliminate a bitter taste in celery. It coincidentally results in a pale green color. You can use almost anything that will wrap around the stalks and keep out light: paper such as brown paper bags (secure with old nylon stockings, string, vegetable wires—you know: the paper-coated wire sometimes used on supermarket lettuces), half-gallon milk cartons (tops and bottoms cut out), soil (pile dry soil around the stalks about one-third of the way up the stalks; this might be easier if you grow it in trenches; note too that soil, especially if it gets wet, could lead to rot). Whatever you use, leave the leaves exposed to sunlight. Salinas farmers might have other ideas...we hope they share them!

Hi Vela,

To get rid of (or at least reduce) earwig populations, sprinkle diatomaceous earth around the base of the celery stalks and the edge of your garden bed. Reapply after it rains. Also, clean up and remove all dead plant material from the garden because earwigs like hiding in rotting plants and wood. For more information, go here: https://www.almanac.com/pest/earwigs. Good luck! 

How to do it??

No comment.

Celery that has already gone to seed will be very bitter and tough, and therefore, pretty much inedible. There may be some stalks that haven't yet flowered, and you could try harvesting these, but it may already be too late for most of the plant. 

Wait until the seeds have dried on the plant and are able to fall off at the slightest touch. This is how you'll know the seeds are fully matured and ready to be harvested.

It might depend on how far along the celery is. Are these seedlings, transplants, close to maturity? If they are almost ready to harvest, then it might be OK. If they are young plants, then you might wait a while to see if the plants can recover and grow more leaves--it may delay your harvest a bit, though, and the plants possibly may not be as vigorous. The plants will need leaves to make food for themselves and grow. To protect plants from more hungry bunnies, visit this page for some bunny control options:
http://www.almanac.com/pest/rabbits  
Good luck!

Celery is irresistible to rabbits.

That's hard to say without seeing it. It's not rhubarb?  Cardoon? Fennel?  Hope this gets you started!

We had "Chinese Celery" in zone 7, perennial; we lost it after 4 years but I don't remember why. Anyway, it was tougher than regular celery but tasted the same. It was very handy to have celery in the winter garden for cooking soups.

There is a perennial called Lovage that tastes like celery with leaves similar to celery but it gets tall.

It could be Lovage

this sounds like ceriac it had a bulb below the soil it is used in soups

Your plant is called lovage.

I believe the plant you may be referring to is lovage. Much like celery, but no no stalks. I love cooking with it.

Perhaps it’s lovage. Has leaves that are similar, is a perennial, and smells strongly of celery. Has way more leaves than stalks.

It's hard to know, as several things can cause yellow leaves. Fusarium yellows can turn celery leaves yellow, but not sure if it attacks at seedling stage; make sure the soil that you used is sterile. Aster yellows is similar, and is spread by leafhoppers. Check for any pests, such as aphids or leafhoppers. Were your seedlings growing in nutrient rich soil? If not, perhaps it might be that they needed fertilizer. Some nutrient deficiencies can also cause yellow leaves, sometimes affecting either older or younger ones first, or between leaf veins. Make sure that the seedlings have the proper amount of light, and temperature, to make them happy. Check the water amount--curling, yellowing, and drooping limp leaves may indicate overwatering. Wilting or drooping, brittle yellowing leaves, underwatering. Hope this helps!

Celery grows slowly. Make sure that the seedlings have plenty of light -- such as by a window (if not too cold or drafty), or under fluorescent growing lights (held about 3 inches above) for 16 hours a day (they do need a period of dark, too). Keep them warm, around 70 to 75F in the day and 60 to 65F at night. Make sure the plants are getting the right amount of water. After a while, they should start to grow taller. Good luck!

Celery does indeed have a mildly salty taste.  But extremely salty?  Are you growing near salt water?

I'm sorry, I'm not sure that I understand your question correctly, but I hope that the following information may help:

Celery is a biennial, normally flowering in the second year. Occasionally, though, plants may flower prematurely the first year (bolting), such as if cold temperatures hit at a certain stage in development (transplanting outside too early in the North can sometimes cause this). The stalks that we eat are leaf stalks (petioles). When the plant flowers, a seed (or flower) stalk will develop in the center of these leaf stalks. This seed stalk has smaller leaves on it, and grows taller than the surrounding leaf stalks. The flowers develop at the top of the seed stalk. Stalk celery is harvested before flowering because that stage can make the leaf stalks woody; if a seed stalk appears, it is removed immediately.

Sometimes celery is processed by removing the outer leaf stalks and just leaving the more tender inner leaf stalks -- usually sold as celery "hearts." Certain diseases can attack the inner leaf stalks. There are also several factors that can cause skinny leaf stalks. In addition to stalk celery, there is cutting celery, which produces thinner leaf stalks and more leaves, and has a stronger taste.

Blanching helps to prevent bitter celery. The red types sometimes are prone to that, so some gardeners like to mound the soil around them. Some do it just half way, to at least have a little red on the stems. But, blanching is optional.

You can often find packets of celery seed in local garden centers, or you can order them from seed companies (via online, phone, or mail order).

You can try organic mulches such as grass clippings (from a lawn not treated with pesticides), compost, or straw (not hay, because of seeds). Or, you can use black plastic, which helps to keep the soil warm, as well as conserve moisture and deter weeds.

If you are in any doubt about the indentity of a plant, do not eat it. The celery family (Apiaceae, aka Umbelliferae) is large, and contains several edible and poisonous plants. Would someone at the university be able to help ID it?

That being said, I'm not sure if celeriac or Chinese celery have round stems, but you might look into those two celery lookalikes. They may have them at a grocery store.

Could it be young Lovage plants?

You can freeze celery. Once thawed, it won't be crunchy, but it can be used in soups, casseroles, etc. Blanching (dipped in boiling water for 3 minutes, then in ice water) is not necessary, but it preserves the flavor a bit more, and the produce lasts for about a year. Unblanched, it lasts just a few months. Some sources recommend cutting the celery, placing the pieces in a single layer on parchment paper on a baking sheet and placing the tray in the freezer; once the celery is frozen, take it out and put into plastic bags, labeled with date. Make sure all air is removed from the bag before sealing and storing in freezer.

Combine equal parts soy sauce and olive oil, put it in a small plastic container, and secure the lid. Punch holes in the top of the container, near the lid. Make the holes large enough for the earwigs to get in. Bury the container in the soil just up to the holes. The soy sauce will attract the earwigs, and the oil will prevent them from escaping. Change the mixture as needed.

It could be that it is just at the early stage with leafy growth; initially, the plant will form lots of leaves but no stalk. In a month or two, stalks should develop. If you are growing this indoors, the stalks may be thinner than what you find at the grocery store, but still good. If you are in an area where you can plant celery out, it might be beneficial to plant it outside when temperatures are optimal (after hardening off).

This is just my personal prefence, but I like the leafy part...chopped, smashed, or smooshed....in recipes over the stalk part. Mainly because the stalk can be stringy...also the aroma and flavor seems to be better the more the "leafy pieces"

You could try pruning the leaves back to train it to grow taller stalks

Well, congratulations on this success! ...Let's hope we can keep it going. It would appear that, while you apparently are doing everything right, in excellent conditions. You probably know that the best time to transfer outdoors is after the last frost. (See our Frosts Dates Calculator for your area http://www.almanac.com/content/frost-chart-united-states/... It looks like you last spring frost is pbobably April 7).

Research in California suggests that topping off (trimming) the stalks about halfway will not afffect growth. (A study/report from Michigan even suggests clipping them with a mower...but we would not go that far.) Further, they were doing it in 1913, according to one report that describes a topped plant as a "stubby paintbrush."

One other bit of advice from a century ago: prepare your trenches in advance, soak the bottoms if no rain falls, and transplant on a cloudy day. Good luck!

With the cold settling in, this is the time to think about next season's garden.

In answer to your question, moist is one thing, wet is another. If the area is one of standing water or one with slow drainage, celery is not likelly to be successful. While celery likes and needs ("requires" above) water, too wet is not good.

Keep thinking . . .

Hi, Heidi, Congratulations on your celery! Some celery is grown as a biennial, some as an annual. If your plants have stalks of at least 6 inches, they can be harvested. We are not aware of roots growing into anything useful once the edible portion of the plant is removed.

Yes and no. You can freeze but only for later use in cooked dishes (such as soups); celery loses its crispness when frozen. To freeze, select crisp, tender stalks, free from coarse strings. Wash thoroughly, trim and cut stalks into l-inch lengths. Water blanch for 3 minutes. Cool promptly, drain and package leaving no headspace. Seal and freeze.

Celery gets bitter from lack of water/drought and high temperatures or being harvested in dry, hot weather. It's very important for celery to have a constant level of available moisture. I hope this helps!

Celery can be challenging to grow. Hollow celery is often due to lack of water, dry spells, age, or lack of nutrients. You can still eat it--or add to stews and soups.  If you bought transplants instead of growing from seed, the issues may have happened at this stage; you can always try growing from seed.

The celery leaves are also very good in salads. The bring a lot of flavor to a salad.

Hi, Rebecca: Without more info, it's tough for Inspector Celery to tell what is going on here. Since you already have this long-season grower once this year, you may be in a climate where you can try again. Make sure your celery gets lots of water and that you follow the seed packet directions exactly. Get a couple of different types. Plant in a couple of different areas if you can -- not much, but enough to test. Most likely you didn't do anything wrong, but perhaps just didn't do everything exactly right. Keep us "posted"! We'll get the peanut butter.

THIS JUICE HAS A CHEMICAL IN IT CALLED CELERIC. I HAVE HEARD IT IS A POISON IN HIGH NUF DOSES----------

This problem is called Blackheart and associated with soil calcium deficiency. Usually, this happens when there's inconsistent moisture such as a drought and not enough water or rainy times with too much water. There's not a lot you can do at this point except to water consistently and mulch to conserve moisture. To avoid this problem in the future, test your soil and add gypsum or limestone if soil is calcium deficient. Also, you can plant disease-resistant varieties. Your local cooperative extension can provide a soil test.

I would think it might be challenging in Mississippi. Celery needs a long time to grow in mostly cool weather—usually up to 130 to 140 days. Celery enjoys cool nights around 50 degrees F and moderate daytime temps of about 60 to 70 degrees. In Mississippi, perhaps you would want to plant in late fall for harvest during mid-winter. Also, you could start the seeds indoors 10 to 12 weeks (2-1/2 to 3 months) before your last frost so the plants do not need that much time out in the garden. There are varieties that mature quicker and can take the summer heat. See Johnny's Seed link below for a variety which is 80 days to maturity: http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7524-tango-og.asp 

You can also grow it indoors. I was surprised to hear this! Here is a link on how you can, it actually works, I've done it. http://www.17apart.com/2012/02/growing-celery-indoors-nev...

Yes, you can eat celery leaves--usually, people use them in soups and salds. The leaves have a slight bitter taste so they're often used as a garnish for a sharper taste. Sometimes they are substituted for parsley.

As pesticide usage is different everyone, we advise you to call your county extension agent for the latest recommendations. It's important to know which pests need to be controlled. Pests of celery include aphids, leafhoppers, carrot weevils, flea beetles, leafminers, armyworms and loopers. For aphids, just use insecticidal soaps.  It is most important to control leafhoppers, a common carrier of viruses. Use floating row covers early in the season, too, and collars if cutworms are present. 

Michael, I grow celery every year in my green house all summer and throughout winter, then outside during summer. In the greenhouse aphid and white flies are bad without treatment. I started using Bonide Eight and Pyretherine by Bonide. This has done excellent in controlling both. With most Bonide products, you can harvest the next day. Regimen is spraying twice a week.

We've learned that celery plants from the grocery store will not *usually" grow into a healthy, productive plant. What happens is just what you describe: Some small stalks sprout from the nutrient reserves in the basal tissues, and then the experiment comes to an end because the mother crown starts to rot. It's best to grow celery from seed as this is most natural, even though it takes a while.

Like you I tried rooting store bought bunches with little success. This year however, instead of potting I planted the rooted base directly in my kitchen greens bed. The first grew all summer, second from mid summer, and a third has set well. I never got market stalks, but great soup and salad. Plants were still good yesterday.

I re-grow all of my celery this way, from the cut bottom of a mature cluster. I have found these things to solve any problems getting them to grow well: 1. First, I barely shave the base, where the roots will emerge, to give it a fresh "raw" surface... 2. I suspend it in a clear jar of water, not fully submerged but just with the tough base in the water, with a few toothpicks much the way you sprout an avocado pit... 3. I keep it in a sunny window, making sure to keep the water level up so it never "hangs in the air" or it can dry out... 4. I never ever change the water, even when it starts getting a little cloudy. Just keep adding water as needed. 5. The little guy will start growing up from the center and turning a lovely bright green...don't be fooled, it is NOT ready for dirt until it has a good bunch of roots about an inch long. Patience, Grasshoppah... 6. When I see all those roots, I usually have several tiny leafy stalks starting. Gently place it in soft soil in a four inch pot,just deep enough to cover that tough base. 7. I keep mine potted in a sunny spot, but not where it bakes in the sun. They love to be moist so water often, but make sure drainage is good so they don't get muddy... 8. Transfer to a larger pot when they get about 8" tall. That's it. I use the leaves all the time as the plant grows, they don't seem to mind having their leaves snipped. Just watch the plant, it will tell you if you're cutting too much on a small plant...slowed growth or wilting is it's cry of, "Hey, can I please have a chance to just re-grow for a while?". I do this with every clump of celery I grow or buy...though I don't HAVE to buy it very often anymore, when I get a great deal at the market I consider it a great three-for-one deal. ;) Good luck and happy celery growing! :)

Celery needs lots of water during the hot summer months. Mulch will help keep the moisture in the soil. Celery is a heavy feeder and needs fertilizer. You can also add some compost to the soil. Elastics or rubber bands are ok to use if they are not too tight.

In response to your first question ("Do I need to do anything"), you need to give them the care they need AS they grow, such as frequent irrigation--but not excessive water that might cause the roots to slow growth. And fertile muck or soil with high organic matter. Our sources suggest that you can harvest these second-year stalks about 90 days after transplanting. Good luck—most sources indicate that this is a challenge to grow.

Celery is a "biennial." It produces edible stalks in its first year and seed stalks during the second year. It has a fairly long growing season and gets harvested about 90 days after transplanting, but if the plant were left to grow for the second year and were exposed to low temperatures, it would produce a longer stem and a seed head.

You are not necessarily doing anything wrong; celery is not an easy crop to grow. You do not indicate where you are, but a temp of 68°F seems a little high, based on our sources. You also do not mention your soil conditions; celery likes lots of organic matter, which means good compost. Peat holds moisture but also brings a certain amount of acidity, which could be too much for celery, which prefers soil of neutral pH. You might consult your local extension service for specific advice for your area. We hope this helps.

I am an avid gardener in an area where we have heat waves and then cool weather. I have successfully grown kale, celery, broccoli, and other plants that "don't tolerate heat and drought well". I also believe global warming is a farse. There goes your theory.

Some people prefer to blanch celery because it makes it taste milder. It also turns the stalks a paler green to white, but makes them less nutritious. To blanch, you can wrap the stalks with newspaper when the plant is about 11 to 18 inches tall, or about 10 to 20 days before harvest. Allow about 6 or so inches of the leaves to pop out of the top of the newspaper. Tie the newspaper with twine to secure it, and cover the bottom edge with black plastic and then cover with soil. (Direct contact of soil on the stalks may cause them to rot.) Other gardeners use boards or other materials to block the light from the stalks. Nowadays, there are self-blanching types of celery. These usually have more leaves, which, if the plants are planted in blocks, are enough to block out light to the stalks for a milder taste. Older varieties, that offer more intense flavor, might require some form of blanching, such as the above or trenching, to reduce the bitterness.

I wrap the top 6-8" of mine with a doubled over sheet of newsprint and tie it off with a piece of twine. This is called "blanching" the celery, and it works beautifully. I like newsprint best of all because it is compostable.

Try talking with someone at a nearby local coop or gardening center. They should have what you need to get started!

If you want to you can also buy store bought celery, cut the stalks just above the white base, then take the base and soak it in water in a sunny window. You will see shoots within a week.

You can find any kinds of seeds at your nearest Walmart. I got mine from where my husband works.

About 15 years ago, I grew Golden Self-Blanching celery for the first time; I grew it in 4 or 5 gallon buckets with lots of compost and drip irrigation and I considered it a success. This year I decided to try growing celery again. I bought the same Golden Self-Blanching from Victory Seeds; they have about 5 different celery varieties. You get about 225 seeds! I also bought some other celery seeds in smaller quantities (Tendercrisp & Utah 52-70) and am starting seeds of all 3 now (Buffalo, NY)