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How to Grow Cannas (Canna Lilies): Planting, Care & Overwintering Guide

Canna Tropicanna®: The original Tropicanna, Tropicanna Gold, and Tropicanna Black

Canna Tropicanna®: The original Tropicanna, Tropicanna Gold, and Tropicanna Black

Photo Credit
Anthony Tesselaar Plants
Botanical Name
Canna x generalis
Plant Type
Flowers
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Bloom Time
Summer
Fall
Flower Color
Orange
Pink
Red
White
Yellow
Hardiness Zone
7
8
9
10
11

Big, Bold, and Beautiful: How to Grow and Care for Canna Lilies

Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Looking to add bold, tropical flair to your garden? Canna lilies are your go-to showstoppers! With their vibrant blooms and towering leaves, these heat-loving beauties are surprisingly easy to grow, even if your garden isn’t in the tropics. Whether you’re planting in borders, containers, or around water features, cannas deliver drama all summer long. Learn how to plant and grow cannas—plus, get instructions for deadheading, cutting back, and overwintering.

About Cannas

Cannas (Canna Indica) are unrelated to true lilies, even though they’re commonly called “canna lilies.” This flowering perennial plant is related to bananas and ginger! This may not be surprising when you consider their huge paddle-shaped leaves in those gorgeous red, orange, and bronze colors. 

They may look tropical, but several canna species are native to the United States. The flowers are somewhat similar to an iris in shape. Their huge leaves wrap in ruffles around stems, tapering to refined buds that open into large, rainbow-hued flowers all summer long, even in intense heat.

Though often called “bulbs,” cannas are not true bulbs as they multiply beneath the soil from a rhizome, an underground stem. 

Also known as Indian shot, canna is a sun-loving tropical or subtropical herbaceous perennial hardy in Zones 7-10. They’ll grow up to 8 feet tall in one season. 

“I decided that if I could paint that flower in a huge scale, you could not ignore its beauty.”
–Georgia O’Keeffe (1887–1986), speaking of her work titled Red Canna

Cannas can be both focal points and stylish accents. Use them to bring structure as a tall border or to add depth to narrow spaces. They add a colorful splash to garden orders and poolside plantings, bring a tropical touch to water features, and thrive in boggy areas (NOT salt water). Mix cannas with grasses, lantana, zinnias, snapdragons, elephant ears, salvia, periwinkles, and more. 

Note: Canna plants can be left outside in the ground all winter in Zones 7 to 10. They will also grow equally well in large containers dragged inside during the dormant period. In colder climates, cannas are easy to lift and store during cooler months. (Learn more below.)

Read Next

Planting

Cannas need full sun for good flowering and consistently moist soil with a pH of around 6.0–6.5. Add lime before planting if your garden soil is acidic (low pH). Position plants away from strong wind; their large, soft leaves are vulnerable to damage.

When to Plant Cannas

  • Cannas can not tolerate cold temperatures. The soil must be 60ºF or warmer before planting rhizomes—often the time when folks put tomatoes in the ground. See our Planting Calendar for tomato-planting dates. Dig a small hole 2 inches deep and insert a thermometer to determine soil temps.
  • In cold, short-season areas, start canna rhizomes in pots indoors or in a greenhouse, ready to transplant outdoors at the right time.

How to Plant Cannas

  • Space rhizomes 1-1/2 to 2 feet apart to give cannas enough room. Containers need to be at least 18 inches in diameter (per rhizome).
  • Before planting, loosen the soil to a depth of 1 foot, then mix in 2 to 4 inches of compost.
  • Dig a hole 2 inches deep and set the rhizome 1 to 2 inches below the soil with the “eyes” (bumps or nodes, which are growth sprouts) pointed up.
  • Cover with 1 to 2 inches of soil. Tamp firmly.
  • Water thoroughly, then withhold water for as long as three weeks and watch for signs of growth. Cannas are slow to sprout. Once sprouted, water at least once a week by slowly soaking the area around the roots.
  • Full foliage color develops when days are warmer (59ºF or more). Blooms should appear in 10 to 12 weeks.
  • Cannas should not need to be staked as they have strong, upright stems.
Canna 'Tropicanna' by Anthony Tesselaar Plants
Canna ‘Tropicanna’® ‘Autumn Joy’ makes for a stunning display in late summer.
Photo Courtesy of Anthony Tesselaar Plants

Growing

  • Cannas need wet soil. If the soil doesn’t remain moist, provide a good soaking once a week and every other day during the hottest weeks of summer—water freely in dry spells.
  • Maintain a thin layer of mulch to help retain moisture.
  • Stake tall varieties, if necessary.
  • Where the soil is fertile, fertilizer is optional. However, canna are big eaters and would benefit from slow-release fertilizer at planting and twice during the growing season. Fish emulsion fertilizer, which is a little higher in nitrogen, is a beneficial organic alternative. Higher nitrogen fertilizers tend to increase canna height. Rose or tomato food products are also suitable.

Deadheading Cannas

  • To promote blooming, check your canna every few days to deadhead (i.e., remove spent flowers)
  • When deadheading, use small garden pruners or scissors. Do not pinch with your fingers.
  • Canna stems grow several flowers on a single stem. Snip off only the spent flower where it joins the main stem, leaving the other spikes to continue to bloom.   
  • Once all the flowers on a single canna spike have bloomed, you may cut that part of the stem back, but avoid cutting off any new budding spikes.

Cutting Back and Pruning Cannas

After the entire plant has been deadheaded several times and with flowers no longer forthcoming, cut the flower stem back to the foliage. 

Only at the end of the growing season should you cut the plant—down to around 6 inches off the ground. 

If the plant looks “trashy” or the leaves get sunburnt, however, you can simply trim off the brown edges (like a haircut) or trim off any dead leaves at the bottom near the stem. 

Be careful not to nick the main stem. If the stem is damaged, cut it back to the ground.

You may see seed pods on your canna!  These seed pods will make more cannas, so you can clip them off and put them right in the soil of your cannas; it may take a few years to get going, but you’ll have more cannas in the future.

How to Store Cannas for Winter

In Zones 7/8 and warmer, cannas can be left in the ground year-round. After frost kills the foliage, cut in-ground plants back to 4 inches. Add a healthy layer of straw or leaf mulch in the fall to protect rhizomes from the cold as the plants overwinter in place. (Note: Zone 7 doesn’t always experience canna-killing winter temperatures, so it’s a judgment call.) 

Bring cannas grown in pots indoors into a garage or basement for winter. Keep them dry (do not water) until spring’s nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50°F., typically after the tulips have bloomed in northern areas. Only then move them outside for the summer.

In Zones 6 or colder, it is necessary to dig up (lift) in-ground cannas in the fall and bring them inside for the winter. After cutting the canna back (as above), dig out the rhizome with a shovel. Avoid damaging the rhizome by digging about 1 foot away from the stem. With your hands, gently loosen the soil and lift out the clump. Shake off the soil and cut off any foliage. Divide clumps into 3 to 5 rhizomes, each with eyes.

Cure the rhizomes in the sun or in a garage or closet for a few days to toughen them up and help them resist rot. Wrap each rhizome in a newspaper or a paper bag, along with a small amount of dry growing medium, such as peat moss, to absorb moisture and prevent rot. Rhizomes should not touch each other.

Store cannas over the winter in a dry place where the temperature will not drop below 40ºF. Often, this is a basement, attic, or garage. Check the rhizomes a couple of times over the winter to make sure that they don’t dry out. Mist with a bit of water, as needed. If you find rot, trip it away or discard the entire rhizome. 

When spring’s nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50°F, replant outdoors. Make sure each divided piece has at least one eye; from it, new leaves will grow. Blooms should appear in 10 to 12 weeks.

Types

  • ‘City of Portland’: 4 to 5 feet tall; green foliage with coral-pink flowers
  • Ehemann’s canna: 5 to 8 feet tall; green foliage with deep rose-pink flowers
  • ’Pretoria’, aka Bengal Tiger: 4 to 6 feet tall; variegated yellow-and-green-striped foliage with orange flowers
  • ‘Futurity Red’: 2 to 4 feet tall, on average; burgundy foliage with crimson flowers; self-cleaning (drops spent flowers)
  • ‘Toucan Yellow’: 2 1/2 to 4 feet tall; deep green foliage with golden-yellow flowers
  • For a tall canna, the Canna Tropicanna® is a popular choice. Growing 4 to 6 feet tall, ‘Tropicanna’ boasts tangerine, iris-like blooms and exotic bronze foliage. Plant in the back of your garden bed or large containers for a dramatic statement on your porch or patio.
canna tropicana
 Canna Tropicanna® 
  • A medium-size gem is ‘Los Angeles’, which has large, deep pink florets and opens out so that you can see the face. Growing 4 to 5 feet tall, this canna blooms from June to August.
pink cannas
Photo Credit: Mick49/Shutterstock

As well as medium- to tall-size cannas, you can find smaller “dwarf” sizes and dramatic “giant” sizes!

  • Dwarf cannas stand 2 to 4 feet tall and are easy to fit into our downsized modern gardens. The ‘Picasso’ is a real attention-getter with bright yellow flowers and deep red leopard-like spots; it blooms from July to frost. The ‘Wyoming’ has dark burgundy stems and lush orange flowers that bring life to a quiet bed from mid-summer until frost.
  • Interested in a giant canna? One of the most popular is the ‘Musifolia’, which grows up to 8 feet! With 3-foot-long red-vein leaves and red blooms, it makes a statement.

Harvesting

To create an indoor arrangement with a tropical feel, cut the canna flower stems. Although the flowers themselves only last a day or two, their foliage makes for a stunning backdrop in many bouquets.

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Pests/Diseases

  • Canna are seldom bothered by deer nor prone to disease. Rust, fungal leaf spot, Botrytis blight, and bacterial bud rot may happen when cannas are kept too wet and crowded.
  • Cannas rarely have issues with pests, though caterpillars can munch on leaves. Slugs, snails, spider mites, and caterpillars are the most common culprits.

Wit and Wisdom

  • Cannas’ bright flowers may attract hummingbirds.
  • The name “canna” comes from the Greek word kanna, meaning “reed” or “reed-like plant.”
  • During the Victorian era, gardeners so loved cannas that they grew them from seed, but this isn’t easy. The germination rate is low, and the seeds need to be filed or given an acid bath to break down their hard coat.
  • Canna seeds, being perfectly round and hard like BB pellets, have been used in jewelry, prayer beads, and baby rattles.
  • Canna has been cultivated as a food crop in Central and South America for thousands of years. The rhizomes are edible; the foliage is used as animal fodder when feed is scarce.

Flowers
About The Author
Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann is the Executive Digital Editor of Almanac.com, the website companion of The Old Farmer's Almanac. She covers gardening, plants, pest control, soil composition, seasonal and moon c...
Read More from Catherine Boeckmann

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Comments

<span>Donna Rivers</span> Sat, 04/19/2014 - 11:52
Thank you Deborah,yes I finally seen mine coming up the first week in April,not all of them have but I am hoping the rest of them will.It has been cold here in Ga a couple of nights down into the 30's hope that doesn't hurt them.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Fri, 03/28/2014 - 15:32

Hi Donna,

If the soil is warm your should see growth in 2-3 weeks. If the soil and air temps are cool it may take a little longer.

 

 <span>Donna Rivers</span> Fri, 04/04/2014 - 09:40
Thank you for your quick response to my previous question however I am worried that I might have planted my cannas bulb to deep,will they still come up or will they die? I have tried to plant cannas before and they never did come up. Thank you in advance.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Fri, 04/04/2014 - 15:41

Our souces suggest plannting cannas about 4 inches deep, laying them horizontally, with eyes up (if you can find the eyes) in rich, most moisture-retentive soil. Fertlize when you plant with a balanced mix (or per the instructions on the canna packaging) and once a month in the summer.

Some cannas a bog plants and thrive along water banks, other merely desire "wet feet."

Watch for slugs when the shoots emerge. (Could these have already attacked your canna?)

 <span>Dwighttovey</span> Sun, 03/23/2014 - 12:25
I'm in Boise, ID (Zone 7) and my wife and I have been growing Tropicanna Black cannas for a couple years. We dig up the tubers in the fall and replant in the spring. The weather has been warming up recently so we were considering getting them back into the planters, but when I went to check on them, I found that while new sprouts have already started (about 6-8" already), there is some white fuzzy mold on some of the rhizomes. Apparently it was too moist in the tubs that we had them stored in? Any thoughts on the impact of that mold? Will I contaminate the soil if I plant anyway? Will it damage the plants any? Should I leave them uncovered for a while and hope that the mold dries out and dies? Thanks for any comments.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Mon, 03/24/2014 - 16:45

A cottony, fuzzy growth on the rhizomes could be rhizome rot, a fungal disease caused by Sclerotium rolfsii or various species of Fusarium. It can appear in humid, damp conditions.

 

If you think this is what your rhizomes have, then you can either discard the rhizomes, or perhaps try dipping the rhizomes in a solution of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water (not sure how this will affect growing shoots, though). Dip them just one or two times to try to remove the mold. If they are still moldy, or if they show other signs of disease, such as sunken or mushy or black areas, then discard them. Otherwise, after the dip, dry them with a cloth, and then set them out to dry for a few days in an area above 50 degrees F. You might also separate these plants from others if you grow them outside, just in case they still do have remnants of disease.

 

When you store them next year, dry them for a few days before storing, and you might try dusting them with an appropriate fungicide (a garden center can advise you about products) to discourage the growth of mold. Don't store in airtight containers; allow adequate air circulation. Keep them dry, dark, and cool, but not freezing.

 <span>Susan Von</span> Fri, 08/22/2014 - 10:17
My parents have been growing beautiful red canna's in Northern CA for 16 years and I noticed this cotton fuzzy growth all over - however - there are also hundreds of tiny white bugs within the cottony growth - leaves also are curling and have bite marks on them - I would greatly appreciate suggestions - thanks! Susan
<span>Carel</span> Sun, 03/02/2014 - 04:40
I planted a few hundred long stem cannas,yellow, red and orange, that I pulled out of a river bed where some garden refuse was dumped in the past. I planted them next to our river pond, and they flourished immediately, flowering beautifully, but now I am worried that it may invade the river as the waterlevel is only about three feet deep. Please advise
<span>R23</span> Sun, 02/23/2014 - 15:38
Is there a way to plant Cannas without them multiplying and spreading when planted in the ground? I'm getting ready to do my landscaping but would hate to have these popping up in places that I didn't want them to grow...
<span>Txbluebonnet</span> Thu, 03/20/2014 - 03:23
I have a bunch of very invasive cannas and some not-so-invasive ones. My hubby had an ingenious idea to keep them where I want them! He suggested getting a watering trough, burying it to the top edge, filling it with soil and compost, and planting them in it. Viola! Contained!