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How to Grow Cantaloupes: Plant, Care For, and Harvest Sweet Summer Melons

Botanical Name
Cucumis melo
Plant Type
Fruit
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Soil pH
Slightly Acidic to Neutral

Learn how to grow delicious, heat-loving cantaloupes (muskmelon)

Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Nothing whispers summer like a chilled slice of sweet, orange cantaloupe juice dribbling down your chin. Good news: these sun-loving melons are easy to grow—and even easier to devour. Let’s get planting!

About Cantaloupes

Cantaloupes are a type of melon with a tan-green rind. Typically, the rind is covered in a spiderweb-like pattern, though some varieties may also be striped. Inside, the flesh is bright orange and sweet. Their growing requirements are similar to those of other popular melons, such as watermelons and honeydew melons.

Cantaloupes vs. Muskmelons

Oddly enough, the melon that is commonly referred to as a “cantaloupe” in North America is not a true cantaloupe, which is more common in Europe. In fact, our “cantaloupes” are a type of muskmelon. (True cantaloupe has a rough, warty rind and is not widely grown or commercially available in the US and Canada.) In North America, the names “muskmelon” and “cantaloupe” are used interchangeably, but we will refer to this fruit simply as “cantaloupe” on this page to avoid confusion!

Cantaloupes sliced

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Planting

Plant in a spot that gets full sun (6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day) with well-draining soil that’s a mix between loamy and sandy. (Growing the plants in raised rows—aka “hills”—ensures good drainage.) Amend the soil with aged manure or compost before planting. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.

Mulching the planting site with black plastic will serve multiple purposes: it will warm the soil ahead of planting, hinder weed growth, and keep developing fruits clean.

When to Plant Cantaloupes

This warm-season, very tender crop thrives in heat and hates the cold! It thrives in warmer climates with longer growing seasons.

  • It’s best started directly from seed. If you live in a warmer climate, you may direct sow seeds outdoors after all danger of frost is well past and when the soil temperature warms to at least 70°F (21°C).
     
  • However, if you’re set on growing cantaloupes in a colder region, you can start seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before your last spring frost date. Transplant outdoors 2 to 3 weeks after the last spring frost when the soil is at least 70°F (21°C). 

How to Plant Cantaloupes

  • Plant seeds 1 inch deep, 18 inches apart, in hills (or hilled rows) about 3 feet apart.
  • If you have limited space, vines can be trained up a support, such as a trellis.
  • If you plant indoors, use peat pots or soil blocks to avoid root disturbance. Harden off seedlings before transplanting. 

Cantaloupes growing

Growing

  • If a soil test indicates that nutrients are lacking, fertilize with a standard liquid fertilizer when vines start growing and spreading. Later on, avoid nitrogen-heavy fertilizers, as too much nitrogen can result in lots of foliage and less fruit.
  • Row covers are a good way to keep pests like squash bugs and vine borers at bay.
  • Watering is key. While the plants are growing, blooming, and setting fruit, they need about 2 inches per square foot of water (about 1.5 gallons) per week.
    • Water in the morning, and try to avoid wetting the leaves, as wet foliage encourages fungal and other diseases.
    • If possible, use drip irrigation to keep plants consistently and evenly watered.
    • Mulching around the plants can help to retain moisture.
    • Reduce watering once fruits are growing. Hot, dry weather produces the sweetest melons.
    • If you’ve had an exceptional amount of rainfall during the ripening stage, this can cause bland fruit.
  • Once fruit begins to grow, prune end buds off vines. Your plants may produce fewer melons, but they will be larger and of better quality.
  • Vines produce male and female flowers separately on the same plant. They often begin producing male flowers several weeks before the females appear. (Don’t be discouraged when the first blooms do not produce fruit.)
    • As with other cucurbits, melon flowers require pollination to set fruit, so be kind to the bees!
  • If your muskmelons taste bland, the trouble could be a lack of magnesium in sandy soil. Sweeten the fruit by spraying the vines with this solution: Dissolve 6 1/2 tablespoons of Epsom salts and 3 1/3 tablespoons of borax in 5 gallons of water. Spray the foliage when the vines begin to “run” and again when the fruit is about two inches in diameter.

Types

  • ‘Ambrosia‘ – 85 days to maturity. Among the sweetest varieties.
  • ‘Athena‘ – 70–80 days to maturity. Early variety that produces large, 5- to 6-pound fruits.
  • ‘Hale’s Best Jumbo’ – 80–90 days to maturity. Produces 3-pound aromatic melons.
  • ‘Minnesota Midget’ – 70–80 days to maturity. Early variety well-suited for gardens in colder regions. Produces 1-pound, sweetly flavored melons.
  • ‘Bush Star’ – 90 days to maturity. Bush variety suits gardeners with limited space.

Harvesting

How and When to Harvest Cantaloupes

  • When rinds begin to change from green to tan or yellow, the melon is typically ripe enough to pick. Be careful not to pick too early, however.
  • Look for a crack in the stem where it attaches to the fruit. This is a sign of ripeness as well. The fruit should be easy to separate from the vine, but if they fall off by themselves, they are usually overripe.
  • Harvest melon when vines are dry, and be careful not to damage them.
  • Melons will soften after harvesting but will not continue to sweeten off the vine.
  • Cantaloupe can be stored uncut for 5 or 6 days. If cut, they can last in the refrigerator for about 3 days, wrapped tightly in plastic.

Gardening Products

Pests/Diseases

Cantaloupe Pests and Diseases
Pest/DiseaseTypeSymptomsControl/Prevention
AphidsInsectMisshapen/yellow leaves; distorted flowers; leaf drop; sticky “honeydew” (excretion) on leaves; sooty, black moldKnock off with water spray; apply insecticidal soap; inspect new plants carefully; use slow-release fertilizers; avoid excess nitrogen; encourage aphid pests such as lacewings, ladybugs, spiders
Cucumber beetlesInsectHoles in leaves/flowers; rasped fruit; plants stunted/die; may transmit bacterial wilt (Bacterial wilt signs: wilting; plants die; ends of cut stems, when pressed together for 10 seconds and pulled apart, release stringy, white sap)Handpick; mulch heavily; use row covers; destroy plants infected with bacterial wilt
Cucumber mosaic virusVirusStunting; mottled green/yellow/white pattern or ringed spots on leaves/fruit; distorted leaf growth; warts on fruitDestroy infected plants; choose resistant varieties and certified virus-free seed; use row covers; disinfect tools; weed; control aphids; use mulch
Fusarium wiltFungusPlants wilt (sometimes on just one side) in daytime; leaves turn yellow (lower ones first); later, entire plant wilts/dies; stunting; stem cross section reveals brown discolorationDestroy infected plants; avoid excessive nitrogen; in acidic soils, raise pH to 7.0; choose resistant varieties; disinfect tools; rotate crops
Powdery mildewFungusTypically, white spots on upper leaf surfaces expand to flour-like coating over entire leaves; foliage may yellow/die; distortion/stunting of leaves/flowersDestroy infected leaves or plants; choose resistant varieties; plant in full sun, if possible; ensure good air circulation; spray plants with 1 teaspoon baking soda dissolved in 1 quart water; destroy crop residue
Squash vine borers (moth & larvae)InsectLarge, wrinkled larvae become orange-red/black, wasp-like, daytime moths; larvae bore into vines; vines wilt suddenly; plants die; mushy area and/or green to orange-yellow, sawdust-like excrement on/near base of plant stemIf detected early, slit infested stem lengthwise halfway to remove borer(s), then bury the cut in moist soil to encourage rooting; wrap seedling stems in aluminum foil collar; catch moths with yellow sticky traps; use row covers if no pests previously, but uncover before flowering; destroy crop residue; rotate crops

Wit and Wisdom

  • Cantaloupe was named for Cantalupo, a former papal villa near Rome.

Recipes
Grilled Cantaloupe With Prosciutto
Fruit
About The Author
Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Nothing screams summer like a chilled slice of sweet, orange cantaloupe juice dribbling down your chin. Good news: these sun-loving melons are easy to grow—and even easier to devour.
Read More from Catherine Boeckmann

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Comments

<span>Thaigyr</span> Sat, 05/31/2014 - 02:30
I have 4 mature, fruiting Ambrosia vines, and they've so far produced over 100 baby fruits... but all of them except one turned yellow & fell off. Several of the "baby" fruit were over 2" long when they aborted. The one fruit was harvested the other day - flavorful, but not sweet; I must have overwatered. Could overwatering be the cause of the fruit drop? They are in a raised bed with great drainage. Could it be a result of a very long hot spell? Thanks for your help.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Tue, 06/03/2014 - 09:59

Overwatering (especially during the last stages of fruit development), lack of nutrients, or disease may cause bland flavor. The plant will normally abort about 70-percent of its female flowers once some are pollinated. Poor fruit set may be caused by inadequate pollination; if a flower is poorly pollinated, it may start to develop the fruit, but may then abort it in a few weeks, or the fruit may continue to develop but be misshapen. Poor pollination may be affected by cool, wet weather (bees aren't as active). Very hot weather can also affect fruit set. If you think your trouble is due to pollination, next time you might try hand-pollinating the flowers and providing plants nearby that attract bees; avoid pesticides that are harmful to bees. Water deeply but infrequently, and cut back a little on watering in the last stages of fruit development.

 <span>Mike Avila</span> Sat, 05/03/2014 - 11:29
Hi I planted cantaloupe from seeds in a raise garden bed. 4-5 weeks later I have 2-3 inch talk seedlings that have all begun to die at the same time. The leaves first begin to shrivel on themselves and turn a yellowish color. I have other plants in the garden bed that don't seem to have this issue. The stem and root system looks good after pulling the seedlings but the leaves are dead. The first signs of death were the two original leaves falling back in the stem and deforming into weird shapes, turning yellow, and finally dying. What could be wrong here?
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Tue, 05/06/2014 - 15:21
It may be that you are overwatering, or it could be the soil condition. Cantaloupe need 1 to 2 inches of water a week until fruit appears. Make sure that your soil's acidity has not dropped below pH 5.4.
<span>Deann</span> Wed, 04/30/2014 - 17:45
I live in northeast Florida on the fl ga line and I have 15-20 plants with 2 leaves in a planter ready for transplant. I wanted to put them in small pots on our back deck. Our soil is basically sand and holds water real bad. I have a raised bed but it's already full of corn plants and carrots so I have no room there. Is it ok to grow them in pots on a porch?
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Thu, 05/01/2014 - 16:34

Plant the seedlings in large (10-gallon) pots that have holes in the bottom for drainage, with well composted/fertilized soil with a pHof around 6.5. Have no more than two plants in one container.

Note that the container will heat up (more than the ground would). Keep a watch on its moisture, but don't overwater it. Melons in containers cannot tolerate dry soil and may require daily or twice-daily waterings when it is hot and dry. Fertilize with fish emulsion every six weeks. Reduce water when the cantaloupes are full size but not yet ripe.

 

 <span>Harold Folker</span> Sat, 04/12/2014 - 00:11
I am just starting a container GARDEN ON MY PATIO. MY FIRST! I HAVE ABOUT 12-15 CANTALOUPE SEEDLINGS READY TO TRANSPLANT. I AM USING A STORAGE TUB TO PLANT THEM hOW DEEP MUST THE SOIL BE?
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Tue, 04/22/2014 - 14:18
Cantaloupes like loamy, well-drained soil. Handle them gently when you transplant. Add lots of compost to the area before and after planting. Plant seeds 1 inch deep, 18 inches apart, in hills about 3 feet apart.
<span>Vernae</span> Mon, 03/17/2014 - 16:10
I planted seeds in the grower pots. they germinated without issue, however I was not able to transplant them for about three weeks. The seedling grew to 4 to 6 inches and began producing flowers. The bees are all over them. Is it too late to transplant. A friend said, I waited to long and that I should throw away the seedlings,start over, and transplant as soon as the seedling leaves appear. that flowers should not appear before the grabber vines. Your advise is appreciated. Thank you
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Wed, 03/19/2014 - 17:13

Transplants should have 2 to 3 mature leaves. They need to be in the ground either way, so you have no choice but to carefully move them.