Caption
Sage is a useful herb that can be easily grown in your garden.
Discover how to plant, grow, and harvest garden sage—an aromatic, easy-to-grow herb.
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Types
- ‘Berggarten’, a robust plant with very large silver-gray leaves
- ’Tricolor’ sage, for a bit of color in the garden (yellow, mauve, and sage green)
- ‘Icterina’ has green leaves with yellow edges

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Cooking Notes
A great way to incorporate the healing benefits of sage is “Sage Butter.” With two ingredients and 5 minutes, you have an amazing herbal butter that’s wonderful on sweet potatoes, chicken, tossed vegetables, fried eggs, toast, popcorn, and whatever you wish!
In the video below, herbalist Patty Sanders shows us how to make sage butter—and also talks all about the healing benefits of sage.
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Red blisters on the undersides of leaves (sometimes yellow or white corresponding spots appear on upper side of leaves) can mean rust fungus. In this case, remove the infected leaves and avoid getting the leaves wet. Provide good air circulation.
Small reddish brown dots on the tops of leaves might mean other fungal diseases, such as alternaria leaf spot, or perhaps insect feeding injury. For best advice, we'd recommend that you take a sample to a horticulturist in a nearby garden center, or to your county's Cooperative Extension. For contact information, see:
http://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-services
Sage needs about 12 hours of light, so if you don't have that, provide full-spectrum artificial lighting to compensate. If you do have a light, it could be that it is too close, causing leaves to blacken--try raising it a bit.
Check the air temperature and make sure the room isn't too hot or cool (day about 75-80, night about 60-80).
Yellow leaves are often due to a nutrient deficiency. Check that the pH is appropriate for sage (about 5.5 to 6.5) and adjust as necessary, so the roots are getting enough nutrients from the medium.
Sage plants are usually replaced after about 4 to 5 years, when they become too woody. Meanwhile, you can prune it back in spring, by removing 1/3 of the top growth. During early to mid summer, prune lightly back, just above a leaf or bud, or just above where a stem branches. Make your cuts at an angle. Remove any dead or diseased branches.
To take a cutting, choose a healthy stem with several leaves. Cut just below the third set of leaves from the top. The area where the leaves come out is called a node (so you cut just below the third node). The node is where roots are more likely to develop. Remove the top (apical) bud, where new leaves emerge. Remove the bottom leaves at the third node. Remove all other leaves along the shoot except two to four at the top. Place the cutting in rooting hormone, shake off the excess, then place the cutting in rooting medium, making sure the bottom node is buried about 1/2 inch. Place in suitable light, temperature etc., and keep moist. The shoot should grow roots in a few weeks.
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