Plant, grow, and harvest lavender in your garden, plus tips on edible varieties, propagation, and creative ways to use this aromatic herb.
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Growing
How to Care for Lavender
- Water once or twice a week after planting until plants are established. Water mature plants every 2 to 3 weeks until buds form, then once or twice weekly until harvest. (Yellowing leaves are often a sign of overwatering.)
- In colder growing areas, plants may need extra winter protection. Cover the plants with a winter mulch of evergreen boughs or straw, insulating them from freezing winds and temperatures. Read more about winter care of lavender plants.
- Another option for cold areas is to grow lavender in a pot, keeping it outdoors in the summer and indoors in winter. While indoors, place the pot in a south-facing window with as much light as possible—water sparingly, as the plant will be dormant at this time.
Pruning Lavender
In cooler climates: Prune established plants in spring when green leaves start to emerge from the base. Remove about one-third of the top to keep the plant from becoming leggy and bare at the base, but do not cut back into old wood, as it will not regrow.
In warm climates: All pruning can be carried out in autumn.
The flowering stems can be harvested while in bloom or snipped off after the flowers fade to keep the plant tidy.
Types
- English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), the most common, is hardy to USDA Zone 5. It’s edible and often blooms twice a season. Hundreds of varieties exist in many colors (white, pink, blue-violet, and purple) and sizes.
- ‘Hidcote’: deep purple flowers; silver-gray foliage; compact form
- ‘Munstead’: violet-blue flowers; dark green foliage; compact form
- ‘Miss Katherine’: deep pink flowers; aromatic foliage; mounding form
- Lavandins (L. x intermedia)—a hybrid of English and Portuguese lavender (L. latifolia)—are generally larger plants that bloom only once yearly, later in the summer.
- ‘Phenomenal’: vigorous variety highly tolerant of heat and humidity; resistant to common root and foliar diseases; long flower spikes
- ‘Provence’: vigorous, long-stemmed variety; very fragrant
- Spanish lavender (L. stoechas) and French (fringed) lavender (L. dentata) are typically only winter-hardy in Zones 7 to 9.
Harvesting
How to Grow New Lavender from Cuttings
- Cut following the plant’s bloom. Choose side shoots for cuttings that have no buds.
- Cut very low near the root, getting several inches of stem. Gently scrape the skin off the bottom portion of the stem on one side with a knife. Remove foliage on the bottom 2 inches of the stem.
- Fill a small pot (4 inches or so) with potting mix. Optional: Dip each cutting in the rooting hormone first.
- Insert bare stem into potting soil. Firm the soil and water in. Cover the whole pot with clear plastic or a polythene bag to create humidity. Place pots in a warm, shaded area.
- Allow about 3 weeks for roots to appear. (If you tug gently, the root shouldn’t move.) Then, remove the bag.
- Water when soil is dry an inch down; feed with 1/4-strength liquid plant fertilizer once a week.
- After a few weeks, transplant it into a larger pot.
Harvesting Lavender Flowers
Lavender is a wonderful herb for drying. Here’s how to harvest it:
- Harvest in the morning hours when the oils are the most concentrated.
- Snip off stems when about half of the flower buds have opened, cutting the stems as long as possible.
- Gather them into bundles and secure them with rubber bands.
- Dry the bundles of lavender by hanging them in a sheltered, cool, dark place with good air circulation.
- After a few weeks, the flowers will have dried fully and can be shaken gently from the stems into a lidded jar. Store the flowers in a cool, dark place.
Use your dried lavender to make lavender sachets—a lovely gift. Lavender sachets can help to keep your sheets or towels smelling sweet, repel moths and insects, and even promote a restful night’s sleep.
Storing Lavender
Store lavender flowers in a lidded jar somewhere cool and dark, or pop them straight into a sachet to keep towels, sheets, or clothes smelling sweet and to repel moths. If you suffer from insomnia, try inserting the sachets into a pillow so the calming scent can help you drift off to a restful slumber.
Gardening Products
Cooking Notes
Although edible, lavender should be used sparingly in recipes. The herb has a lovely perfumed flavor, but it can be too strong or bitter if overused.
The herb is often used in herbes de Provence mixes, and leaves can be chopped and added sparingly to some sauces, shortbread biscuits and baked goods, ice cream, teas, and lemonade.
See our recipe for lavender scones and honey-lavender syrup, as well as a recipe for making your own lavender-herb tea.
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Hi, Faith. You should start your seeds anywhere from 6 to 12 weeks before you are planning to transplant. If you are transplanting in UP, that date would be around the last week of May into early June.
Multiple studies have found that the oil derived from crushed lavender leaves can in fact work as a mosquito repellent. I don't know of studies, however, that have shown that the plant in its natural form bothers mosquitoes much. Here's a collection of some of our thoughts on natural repellents: https://www.almanac.com/plants-repel-mosquitoes-and-insects
You can! In fact, we have a whole article about how to overwinter lavender.
Goodness, you are moving a lot of plants, based on other comments. I’m not sure we can get to them all, but here are tips on transplanting lavender. Move in cool weather when the plant is dormant. As with most plants, gently dig a wide circle to get as much of the root ball intact as well as the soil around it. You can also cut back the lavender by a third before transferring.
Assuming you’re putting in a pot temporarily, just at soil to pot and ensure te root ball is at the same depth as it was before. Pat soil around root ball but don’t cover the crown! Water.
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