How to Grow Blueberries: Plant, Prune, and Harvest Like a Pro

Hi, Heather, If the leaf does not look like blueberry foliage, it doesn't sound promising. You could let it grow for a while to confirm and/or bring the leaves to a local nursery and see if an expert there can identify it. As for the plants in general, we've found that improper soil, and in particular the soil's pH, are often the problem. If you have not yet, you might want to do a soil test. Wishing you better luck next time!

Probably spider mites. Get neem oil right away!

Guidance on planting is above as follows

HOW TO PLANT BLUEBERRY BUSHES

• Tip: Be careful not to plant them too deeply. The rootball should be just below the surface (one-quarter to one-half inch).
• Dig holes about 20 inches deep and 18 inches wide (or about twice as wide and twice as deep as the roots of the plant).
• Space bushes 4–5 feet apart in a row, with at least 8 feet between rows. Prepare a planting mixture of 2 parts loam and one part oak leaf mold, peat moss, aged sawdust, or compost, and place a layer of this mixture in the bottom of the hole.
• Set the bush in the hole with the rootball just below the surface and its roots spread out. Pack the hole tightly with soil.
• Apply fertilizer one month after planting, not at the time of planting. Apply ½ ounce of a 10-10-10 fertilizer in a band around the plant 6 to 12 inches from the crown.

more from this page https://www.almanac.com/news/gardening/garden-journal/gro...

Bare-root shrubs are best planted in the spring but container-grown ones can be planted at any time. Space them 4-6 feet apart and don’t plant them any deeper than they grew in the pot.

Grow at least two different varieties for better pollination and higher yield.

Blueberries should be fertilized sparingly in the spring, once the leaf buds begin to swell and again when the fruit starts to form.

from that page in the comments at the bottom (like this) 

Soil is the key to success with any plant. Have yours tested and see what nutrients it lacks and what the pH is. Blueberries need acidic soil to grow and produce well. If the pH is too high the leaves will be yellow and the plants will struggle to grow. A site with full sun is best. They are very sensitive to drying out so they need plenty of water, especially in the early years. Mulching with wood chips or pine needles will help protect the roots and conserve moisture. It takes a few years for the plants to become established and begin to pump out the berries so after you have made any necessary soil corrections be patient. Eventually you should start to get the berries you are eagerly looking forward to!

If you think it's too late to plant, and it might be, our friends at the Wisconsin coop extension (https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/growing-blueberr... have this advice re overwintering potted blueberries:

How do I overwinter my blueberry plants? Because containers do not provide adequate insulation from the cold, be sure to protect container-grown blueberries during the winter to prevent root damage. In mid- to late October, bury containers in the ground at a site where snow is likely to accumulate and where plants will be protected from cold winter winds. Mulch the soil surface with four to eight inches of straw in mid-November or cover the bushes with burlap. Prevent rabbit damage by placing chicken wire fencing or hardware cloth around the bushes. During early to mid-spring, remove containers from the ground and place them in full sun. Alternatively, containers can be left buried in the soil as long as the containers have proper drainage holes and the site where the containers are buried is well drained and exposed to full sun.

Finally, from a master gardener in Toronto: https://www.torontomastergardeners.ca/askagardener/blue-b...

Did I say "finally..."? One more https://globalnews.ca/news/1602975/over-wintering-your-pe...

You will notice some redundancy amidst the info; the bottom line---we think---is to protect the plants in a garage or basement until spring. Please take the time to read and note the advice these sources offer. And good luck!

The best advice we have in above. Read it all, but especially how to care. And peruse thee Qs and As below. It's insightful and encouraging. Good luck!

Food and water are not on the menu here; scientists are learning that high temps such as you describe can affect pollen development and pollination. There is no specific/guaranteed solution at this time.

It could be that you do have a type of highbush blueberry, as they can get quite tall and tree like. However, the description also sounds like deerberry, which have berries that are more red than your usual blueberry. They also have reddish flesh, rather than the pale flesh of a typical blueberry. Try looking online for deerberries and see if they look like what you've got!

That's correct! Both Rabbiteye and Southern Highbush blueberries perform well in southern gardens (see Recommended Varieties, above). 

Saw this thru farmers almanac . Online blueberry course/ commercial production , how do I sign up ? How much does it cost ?

Hi This is VIVEK FROM INDIA, I am interested in Berries cultivation in INDIA. I have place which has sun shine 365 days , maximum temperature in summer around 30-35 deg, minimum temperature in winter around 6-10 deg centigrade, Please let me know if we can do it in india.

Have land would like to start a blueberry farm

Interested in the course

Early spring is the best time to plant dormant, bare-root blueberries in Iowa. Soak the roots of bare-root plants in water for about an hour before planting. Prune back the plants by half by removing the small side branches and by heading back the main branches. 

Potted or container grown blueberries can be planted from spring to mid-summer. Little or no pruning should be necessary. Carefully slide off the container just prior to planting. 

Hi, Marcia. Are you getting blossoms on your plants? Often, when blueberries are not fruiting, it is due to lack of pollination. Perhaps it has been poor weather and the busy bees have not come out?  Blueberries are very susceptible to late spring frosts, too. Also, while blueberries are self-fertile they do much better when there is another variety that blooms about the same time. There could be other issues, such as acidic soil pH (which needs to be below 5.5), good drainage (no wet feet!), and proper pruning, but usually it’s the bees.

When a newly planted, bare root blueberry plant will leaf out will depend on several factors, including weather conditions, site conditions, cultivar, and health of the plant. If all goes well, I'm thinking that you should see signs within the next 2 to 3 weeks. The plant has to not only break dormancy but also adjust to its new home, so it might take a little longer than an established plant. Blueray may leaf out a little earlier than Bluecrop. Sometimes nurseries will guarantee a leaf out time for certain plants if you plant by a certain date. You might ask the vendor where you purchased the plants, as they might know best what to expect of their stock. Hope this helps!

Yes, blueberries can survive a light frost after planting. However, it would be a good idea to put down a layer of mulch around the plant's base and to cover the plant on nights when frosts are expected.

How long does acid ph last?

The main type of blueberry grown in TN are Rabbiteye types, especially Tiffblue variety and also Climax and Powder Blue. In higher elevations, Highbush grows well such as Duke, Patriot, and Blue crops. Your local nurseries should be able to advise you for your area! Hope this helps.

Highbush blueberries, such as Spartan, Bluecrop, or Elliott, grow well in Kentucky. Rabbiteyes in warm southern parts. Lowbush types would not do well. For more on growing blueberries in Kentucky, including soil requirements, here is information from the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service:
http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agcomm/pubs/ho/ho60/HO60.PDF
Hope this helps!

For the first year, the same as when you planted the bush, pick off the flowers so that the plant can focus on becoming established. You can start harvesting fruit the second year after planting, as long as the plant is healthy. If it still seems to be struggling, give it another year before allowing it to fruit. We've revised the text so this is clearer. Hope this helps!

Vinegar is an acid, so it would make the soil slightly more acidic. Soil acidity is measured as pH; blueberries like a pH of between 4.0 and 5.0. Have you done a soil test? If you bring the soil too much below 4.0, you may notice that your bushes underperform. If, as it happens, your soil is over 5.0, the bushes might appreciate the acid. How much are you going to pour on? Bottom line: if you hand weed well and then mulch heavily, you will probably deter most of the weeds.

For the record, some sources recommend maintaining a soil's acidity by adding 1 tablespoon of household vinegar to a gallon of water, when watering.

Highbush and rabbiteye blueberries both grow well in Oklahoma, depending on the location and the cultivar. Highbush blueberries generally ripen in May and June and perform best in northern Oklahoma. For best yields, two or more cultivars should be planted together, making sure that bloom time overlaps. Bluecrop and Bluejay are two good highbush varieties that pollinate at the same time. Rabbiteye blueberries ripen from late May to early July, and grow best in central and southern Oklahoma and are more heat tolerant than highbush types. Rabbiteye blueberries bloom at different times so it's important to select varieties which have overlapping pollination times. Premier and Brightwell are two rabbiteye varieties that overlap. Check with your local nursery or cooperative extension for more local knowledge.

Well, sources suggest that the Northland Blueberry stands at about a 4-foot-spread at maturity (that's above ground). Generally speaking, blueberry bushes have small root systems. We'd recommend perhaps a 15-gallon size container to start. As it matures, you might need or want to transplant it into a half whiskey barrel or the like (with obvious drainage).

Good question! I don't think that the northern types would be happy at all. The southern highbush and rabbiteye types, which are grown in mild climates due to their lower chilling requirements, might be OK with extra care. Blueberries can be grown in desert climates, such as in Arizona. Some gardeners grow them in containers, so that they can move them to shade during high heat (and also, so that they can use appropriate soil, as sometimes native soil may be too alkaline). For more information, you might contact your county's Cooperative Extension service. There might be someone there who would know about the temperature tolerances of these plants. For contact information, see:
http://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-serv...

They will need at least 6 hours full sun. The white pines would have nothing to do with their up take of nutrients. The shade would be a major factor. Also the soil Ph would be a factor. A Ph close to 5 would works best. Use peat moss worked in around the plants. Blueberries also need a regular water supply to do well. Without water or a low moisture level no photosynthesis takes place. Also photosynthesis is very low when the plants are shaded. All the fertilizer in the world will not help these conditions. Just on a few plants azalea miracle gro plant food will help bring the Ph down.

I have a similar question. I have 3 small plants I have bought for my granddaughter. We have them in pots on the patio. What should we do to winter them? Do we cover them? Or can we bring them indoors? Would really appreciate your help on this matter. Thank you.

When a blueberry bush starts to flower, you do not have to cut the flowers off. The flowers will drop off in a few weeks.

Hi Bill,

Try your region's native highbush blueberry, Vaccinium corymbosum, as it is a woodland garden shrub that can take part shade.

First, I would caution against digging under established evergreen trees; it is very difficult, as they have tremendous root zones that require very aggressive measures to get through, which is not good for the trees, and ultimately not good for your blueberries, as they will be competing for room to grow as well as nutrients and moisture. If you can plant them elsewhere, start with two-gallon pots. Plant them in the fall when the weather is cooler. If they are happy, they should fruit the next summer (in time they will likely produce more fruit than during their first season). You would have to plant a whole lot of shrubs to eat a few pounds weekly! Space depending, five to seven plants will give a reasonable yield.

It sounds like they might have Septoria leaf spot disease. Try to keep the foliage as dry as possible (avoid overhead watering) to limit the spread of spores; also remove the most disease-riddled leaves as well as any that have dropped into the soil. This is a difficult disease to manage once spores are in the soil. If the plants continue to succumb, consider replacing them next year with disease-resistant varieties (start with clean soil, i.e. remove what is there and replace with compost-rich, amended soil).

Are the two bushes the same variety? If not, it could be that the other variety has a different, more sour, taste. Flavor will vary between varieties. If your bushes are the same type, was the bitter plant producing an unusually abundant crop of berries? If so, those berries can be bitter. When your bush overproduces, you'll want to be sure to thin the fruit so that the plant can focus on growing fewer berries, and that can help the sweetness. Perhaps another possibility is that the plant is under stress--mechanical injury, disease, environmental, pests, etc. -- check to see if the plant looks healthy overall, including the base of the trunk (to check for any damage to bark by weed trimmers, etc).

Just a hint, add hard wood ash about 2 in deep in a circle about 4 in from bush. Water lightly. do this early June and you harvest in Aug will be so sweet your mouth will hurt lol.

All blueberry species have about 20 small seeds, but your blueberry variety's seeds are more noticeable. The climax variety is a type of rabbiteye blueberry, and rabbiteye blueberries tend to have more noticeable seeds. You could try a non-rabbiteye variety if you would like the seeds to be less noticeable.

It sounds like the plant is struggling in soil that is not the proper pH. Yellow leaves on blueberry plants are a sign of iron deficiency. Have your soil tested before doing anything hasty. Soil kits are available at garden and nursery stores. Or contact your local cooperative extension (usually at a public/state university).

Your pink lemonade blueberry plant should show white-pink flowers in spring, and the berries should ripen in late July to early August. Often, when blueberries are not flowering, it is due to lack of pollination. Perhaps it has been poor weather and the busy bees have not come out?  Blueberries are very susceptible to late spring frosts, too. Also, while blueberries are self-fertile they do much better when there is a second blueberry plant that blooms about the same time. There could be other issues, such as acidic soil pH (which needs to be below 5.5), good drainage (no wet feet!), and proper pruning, but usually it's the bees.

Hi, sodagirl: This is difficult to diagnose from afar, but it almost sounds like this bush became infected with parasitic nematodes (microscopic). Another possibility is a virus, although it would be more probable that nematodes would infect only one out of four plants, rather than all. Odors from dead plants usually are generated not by the killers, but by bacteria that are late to the (dead matter) party. We would get rid of this plant by double-construction-grade-bagging it up, soil and all, and taking it to the landfill (consult with attendant) or burying it in a deep hole. In the meantime, to be on the safe side, apply an organic (if possible) nematicide to your remaining plants per directions. But the main thing is to not let this dead bush be sitting around: It needs to be quarantined ASAP. Good luck!

Both blueberries and raspberries grow very well in colder regions. Go to your local garden center and see what varieties they have to offer.

Go to http://hortupdate.unl.edu/Blueberries to read about growing blueberries in Nebraska.

Go to http://hortupdate.unl.edu/Raspberry to read about growing raspberries in Nebraska.

Blueberry plants are self-fertile, so no worries. However, it's always good to have different varieties to aide pollination to ensure you get fruit.

Wanda, Here’s is advice on fertilizing blueberries from the UF extension:

“Blueberries respond best to frequent, light fertilization. They can be killed or damaged by over-fertilization. It is best to be conservative and gradually increase fertilizer rates as you gain experience with your soil type and the kinds of fertilizer you are using.

Do not put fertilizer in the planting hole. After planting, when the soil is well settled from irrigation or rainfall, give un-mulched plants 1 ounce per plant of 12-4-8 (N-P2O5-K2O) with 2% magnesium (Mg). Use ammoniacal nitrogen or nitrogen from urea or organic sources, rather than from nitrate sources. Chlorine levels should be as low as possible, preferably below 2%. A special formulation called “blueberry special” is available in Florida and meets these requirements. Another possibility is “camellia-azalea” fertilizers. Many of these fertilizers are suitable for blueberries, and they are usually readily available in small quantities for home gardeners. Spread fertilizer evenly over a circle 2 feet in diameter with the plant in the center. Repeat this procedure in April, June, August, and October. If plants are heavily mulched, use 1.5 ounces per plant per application rather than 1 ounce because some of the fertilizer will be unavailable for plant uptake. During the second year, use 2 ounces of 12-4-8 per plant per application and spread it evenly over a 3-foot diameter circle. In the third year and beyond, use 3 ounces of fertilizer per plant per application spread evenly over a 4-foot diameter circle, or broadcast in a continuous band 3–4 feet wide, centered on the plant row. These are general guidelines and should be adjusted based on plant performance. Slightly more fertilizer may be required if plants are heavily mulched. However, more often than not, cultivated blueberries suffer more from over-fertilization than from lack of fertilization.”

Blueberries have both male and female organs on the same flower, but not all are self-pollinating. Pink lemonade is fully self-pollinating and you don't need a different variety for cross pollination. Some growers suggest that the berries will be bigger and sweeter if you grow a different variety nearby. For best fruiting choose to plant a rabbiteye variety like 'Climax’ or ’Tifblue’.

Sounds like you climate is perfect for blueberries. Plant in full sun, give it adequate water, and you should be good to go with periodic fertilizing. Be sure to plant two different varieties as they need cross pollination. Underwatering will cause small dry berries and overwatering will create bland tasting berries. Homegrown blueberries are the best! You can't buy that in the grocery store.

Blueberries need as much sun as possible to produce well. They are also picky about the soil. Please see our planting advice at top of this page. Sunshine Blue is a nice variety for warmer climates and will produce lots of berries.

Hi Alex,

Blueberries can be grown hydroponically. Please go to http://luv2garden.com/hydroponic_blueberries.html and http://gardenious.com/tag/hydroponic-blueberries/ to read more about how to succeed.

Hi, jj: Much of this depends on whether they would be getting direct sunlight. Seven hours in the second half of the day is somewhat pushing the envelope for success, but it certainly might be possible. Another possibility might be to plant bushes in containers and move them (such as on a child's wagon) to get maximum sunlight. If it were up to us, we would definitely try it with a couple of bushes as a test. Good luck!

Yes, transplant when the bushes are dormant, usually after the first frost of the fall/winter. Make sure to dig far enough around the root ball and deep down to get as much of the roots as possible. Have the new holes dug and ready for the bushes.

The acidification process with elemental sulfur is slow and can take up to 6 months. It works faster when the soil is warm. Wait until spring to test the soil again and see what the values are. If you still think you need to use the iron sulfate use about 2 tablespoons per bush.

As long as the varieties you have chosen are hardy to your zone, they should winter over just fine with 6 inches or so of shredded bark, pine needle, straw, or shredded leaves for a mulch; heavy snow cover will do the rest. I don't know how practical covering them is since I don't know how many you have or how tall they are but if you want to baby them you can place chicken wire cages over them and fill the cages with leaves or cover them with a heavy weight polypropylene row cover.

Our farm is in Gresham, Oregon. Our blueberry bushes are approximately 75 years and younger. We have been in operation for 58 years. As long as you prune yearly, fertilize, water and deal with the most common diseases, you can get more than 20 years at least in the older varieties.

I would cut them to the ground in late winter to stimulate new growth. You probably will not get fruit the first summer, but they should start producing the following if they are fed, watered, and other conditions are correct.

Sara, See the "Care" section of this page on pruning back your blueberry bushes. When you cut the stems back to ground level, it does not kill them. In fact, it only makes them stronger. Now, if you want to get rid of your blueberry bushes, that's another story...

Hi Eric,

The blueberries may have something called the blueberry shoestring virus. It is spread by aphids. One way to reduce infection risk is to get rid of the aphids. Read more at http://migarden.msu.edu/uploads/files/e3048.pdf

Rabbiteye varieties are best for Alabama - and where I live (between Mobile and Tuscaloosa) the Climax and Tifblue varieties work really well. Make sure you have at least two different varieties growing near each other for maximum production.

Hi Kim,

Brunswick blueberry bushes are self pollinating. This is a wonderful hardy blueberry variety.

Hi, B: In some respects this may depend on the exact type of hybrid you have and where you are in Canada, but it is true that most blueberries take 2 or 3 years, at least, before they become established enough to produce blossoms and fruit. Patience! And thanks for asking!

It's best to purchase blueberries as a plant, not grow from seed. Visit your local garden center or there are many online plant retailers such as Starbros.com and Burpee.com. Just Google "buy blueberry plants."

You can grow them from the fruit if you really want to though. My mother in law threw some old blueberries in her compost hole and a blueberry plant started to grow. It took 2 years to tell what it really was, and another 5 to start to actually blossom. It was about 2 years after that before it really made enough berries to call it producing though. So, 9 years from seeds/berries that she got from the store. I went and got a 5 gallon plant and it started making berries the next year.

At least a week before the first insects are expected to emerge (early June), place yellow monitoring traps baited with ammonium acetate in the the top third of bushes without foliage touching them. If you monitor the traps and detect flies, only then should you spray an insecticide. Speak to your local cooperative extension about approved insecticides.

It's normal for flowers to turn brown and drop off after they are pollinated. The flowers that are not pollinated will stay on the bushes for a few more weeks and then drop off. Make sure that you have some bees or native pollinators in the area.

If you don't know the variety it's best to get another bush that blooms at around the same time for better pollination. See our planting and care inforamtion above for best soil and growing conditions.

Make a note of when the blueberry is blooming this year and wait to see if you will get blueberries this summer. Some varieties do not need another bush to produce berries. With a second bush the harvest is usually bigger. If you don't get berries this year find another blueberry bush that blooms during the same period that your bush was blooming this year (there are early, mid and late blooming varieties).

I should clarify. About 2 inches above ground, the single stem splits into 2 stems, each of which splits again in another 2 inches. Each of those 4 stems are between 1/2 and 3/4" in diameter.

It's best if the bushes bloom at the same time or overlapping times. Rabbiteye 'Tifblue' is a good pollinator for other rabbiteye varieties as it blooms for a long time, starting in mid season. Vernon is an early bloomer. You can watch the bloom cycle this season to see if you need to buy one more rabbiteye variety that blooms early to mid season.

You purchased Rabbiteye blueberries. It's good that you bought two because they are not self-fertile and you must plant 2 or three varieties that bloom about the same time (which is true for Climax and Premier). Normally, you should have planted the blueberries in February or early March before growth resumes so get them in the ground as soon as possible. According to your local extension, "Space your blueberry bushes by 6 by 12 feet. Each hole should be 18 to 24 inches across and the same depth. Add one-third cubic foot of peat moss to each hole, and mix it with the native soil. Avoid fertilization in the hole. Let the hole stand for two weeks after this to allow the peat moss to become thoroughly damp, adding water as needed. Keep root systems of bare-root plants overed with damp sawdust, hay, or peat moss while you are preparing to plant. Score the root balls of containerized or container-grown plants before planting them, in order to encourage the roots to grow outward. Plants should be set
about one-half inch deeper than they were in the container. After replacing the peat and soil mixture into the hole, tamp it lightly to remove air spaces. Unless rain is likely, water the newly set plants. Cut back shoots on large plants to keep them from being blown over by high winds."

You may have stem cankers on your bushes. It is caused by a fungus. It's important to remove dead and affected branches as soon as possible. Read more about this disease at www.fruit.cornell.edu/berry/ipm/ipmpdfs/BB%20canker%20fas...

Tarilyn and Gary, the white /pink blossoms are meant to fall off. Their purpose is to attract a pollinato, once that is done..so are they. The part left behind grows into a blueberry

As Duke is a Northern Highbush, you just need to select another Northern Highbush. For example, Bluecrop and Blueray are a popular choices for your zone and widely available.

Ideally you want a pollinator that will be blooming at the same time so you get max. cross pollination. Duke is early so Reka, Sparta, and Patriot would be fine and all very good plants in their own right. But of course, now you've limited to a small slice of the growing season. So if you have the room the inclination is always to put in two different late bloomers.

It's best to get different varieties of blueberries planted within 100 feet of each other. Unlike some plants, the same blueberry plant cannot be fertilized by their own pollen.

And when the goats escape from the pen...they REALLY enjoy blueberries!

As soon as possible after the plants arrive in early spring, plant them in soil that you prepared the previous season.

Hi Mary,

Dig down about 2 feet and amend the soil. Make sure that the soil is bit acidic. After you plant your bushes add a layer of mulch.

Good luck!

Zdrasti, Any variety will do better than what's presently available. I tasted a few blueberries in BG (Varna) and they were, no offense, terrible. They had huge seeds in them and were bitter. It was not what I had expected and I was disappointed. (I come from a small farm and knew there was better.) I would imagine you are looking at about $35-$40 per bush and then add on any delivery and import fees. Quite an expensive undertaking, but once your bushes start growing, I am sure you will make your money back and start seeing plenty of profit by the 10th year. Късмет!

Be very careful to purchase from a reputable nursery/wholesaler. We have been stuck by many growers. They don't tell the truth. I would be happy to give you more advice if you need it. Shipping from the US to Bulgaria has to be expensive but you can get great quality bushes for under $5 in the US. Be careful. Look at the zones in the US for agriculture and apply that to Bulgarian temperatures. Buy bushes that are recommended and grown in that Zone. chris

Ivan, 15 acres? You should be growing more than 1000 per acre (based on 4 ft and 10 ft aisles. You should be buying Tissue Cultured, Virus indexed and paying (at that volume) around 2.00 US per plant. Shipping costs, irrigation, labor, peat will add significantly to your costs. Do you want to harvest all at one time? Then I'd consider Draper. If you want to harvest over a period of time: Reka, Blue Crop, Liberty would be my three. If you are serious I can hook you up with growers and shippers. STEVEAJL@aol.com

To lower pH, add common sulfur to your soil. Ferrous sulfate and aluminum sulfate are sometimes used instead. You can also lower the pH of alkaline soil over time by applying compost and manure regularly.

Hi Tracy,

The sooner you get them in some soil the better. Depending on where you live you can plant them in containers or in the ground. If the "starts" were dormant and were kept in a cool, dark place they may still be OK. Plant them and see what happens.

Blueberries do best in full sun but they do tolerate some shade. We suggest that you check the soil around the sad bush. Blueberries prefer moist, well-drained acidic soil that has been amended with compost. The pH value should be  between 4.5 and 5.5.

I live in southern Arizona and you problem could be the sun is hottervin the afternoon then in the morning which I know that here plants have a harder time with the afternoon sun giving it shade for afternoon or moving it to an area closer to you other plant may be a good idea. Even though plants say they need full sun doesn't always mean it can handle it when 100+ temps get to the summer heat as it does here and probably there in Ca.

All that I have heard, you need 2 different types of blueberries to be grown near each other. They need cross pollination in order to get a good crop of blueberries. Lots of acidity to your soul as well.

Hi Carroll,

Blueberries do well in containers. Select a variety that doesn't grow too tall or big. Make sure that the barrel has adequate drainage since blueberries don't like to have ‘wet feet.’ Drill at least 6 good-size holes in the bottom.

I'd keep them in containers. You probably can't set out new blueberries until after frost. Plus, you have to get the soil ready-- you need well-drained, light, sandy loam soils that's high in organic matter and has a pH between 4.5 and 5.5. If the soil pH in the container is not between 4.0-5.5 then work large quantities of such materials as peat moss, oak leaves, pine needles or sulfur into the soil. Blueberries do need some winter chill to produce but not too cold. So bring the containers into an unheated shed or garage during winter months. It should say in the 30 to 34 degree range--no colder. Check the container soil once in a while to make sure it doesn't dry out and water if you need to. If they are young blueberries, they probably won't produce the first year or two. See how it goes!

For winter protection it's better to add a thick layer of mulch around your bushes (about 6 inches thick). Bark, pine needles or straw works well. The bushes should be pruned once a year to ensure good fruit production. Prune late in the winter or early spring when the plants are still completely dormant. Remove any diseased, weak or spindly branches.

Try adding sulfur to your plants to make the soil more acid. Blueberries won't produce much fruit if the soils is not acid enough. I add sulfur to my blueberries every fall. Also, you could be adding too much nitrogen with your Miracle Grow. The N ration should be smaller than the P and K.

I would test your PH also fertilize in march, read up on what type of fertilizer and PH blueberries like.

You're killing them wiht an excessive of Miracid. Miracid is not organic, it's quick acting and can burn. Blueberries need very little fertilizer. Hollytone is organic and slow acting, you should use no more than 1/2 cup over the course of a years.

Hi Kiara, ive always wanted to live where i could be self sufficient. Thats not going to happen, but I enjoy watching the Alaskan shows. Anyway, I can enjoy planting berries here in the subdivision, in New York. Your post got me daydreaming thats all.

I am going to assume that you want seeds to get around some import restrictions. It is a difficult process and adds years onto the time you have to wait for a bountiful crop. A single cultivar (take BLUE CROP) as an example are really one plant that has been split and asexually reproduced millions of times. So genetically all the blue crop blueberry bushes around the world are, in a very real sense, one plant. Man is contradicting nature that wants to produce diversity as a survival technique. The only way that I know that can get a seed of bluecrop is to put the plant in sterile conditions, cover each blossom and attempt to introduce its own pollin at a propitious moment. Even that might not be successful, blue crop, in it's relentless drive to preserve its gene pool through diversity, might reject it's own pollen.

Make sure the soil around the plant is what they like and they will be fine. It can take a while for the soil acidifier to work so dont over do it. Mr. B.

If you can't move the container into an unheated garage or shed the best thing to do is to dig a big hole and "plant" the container with the blueberries in the hole. Bury it deep enough so that the top of the container is slightly covered with soil. Fill in around the container as you would with a plant and then add mulch on top of the soil for extra protection.

It will freeze and die unless you plant it in a 20 gallon plus container or bring in into a warmer area. Mr. B.

I would ask local farmers. Mr B.

Blueberries must have good drainage. If you have a monsoon season, will the bushes be in soggy wet soil for a long time? They probably will not like that.

Maybe it's not a blueberry plant.

Hi Joel,

Some varieties of blueberries turn pink or red before turning blue. You should have some ripe blue berries soon.

Hi Tiffany,

Please read our "care" section on this page. How old is the bush? Is it getting enought sun, water? Is the soil acidic enough? What variety is it? You may have to test the soil and amend it.

Hi Chris, Thanks for reading through your comments and your kind words.  In your area of Arizona, growing blueberries can be a challenge.  Soils in the higher elevations of northern Arizona have a pH range of between 6.7 and 7.3. Blueberries require a soil pH of 4.3 to 5.0. Remember that at least 2 varieties need to be planted for cross-pollination and fruiting.

In terms of variety: "Patriot" produces large size fruit (approximately 55 per cup) and has excellent flavor. Taste is very subjective but many people enjoy "Bluecrop" which produces medium to large fruit (approximately 65 per cup) and tends to be good and tart.

Much of this information comes courtesy of the University of Arizona cooperative extension and we would advise getting in touch with their services for more on-the-ground support. 

Bonus and Chandler are the largest while Darrow is right after them. Best taste is subjective but generally speaking the best tasting plants (among the northern high bushes) are: Legacy, Bonus (very distinctive) Blue gold, Elizabeth, Jersey (smallish), Hannah's choice, Hardy blue and Sparta. Duke, highly rated for productiveness but not for flavor, tastes great to me. Don't worry too much about it, the worst blueberry I ever had was delicious.

Blueberries are not the most natural berry for Colorado, due to the alkaline soil. Blueberries need acidic soil to thrive (pH 5.5). If you're up for the challenge, 'Earliblue' Highbush blueberries grow in zone 5. You'll need two varieties for cross-pollination.  Other highbush types that cover zone 5 are 'Blue Crop", 'Blue Gold', and 'Blue Ray.' Some tips: grow in sphagnum peat moss, ensure that the root zone always stays moist, even in winter, and protect the bushes from winter winds. Wrap bushes with burlap or old sheets while they are dormant.

Put the container in the sun and give it some water. Blueberries need 1-2 inches of water a week. If it survives you can plant it in the ground next spring.

It sounds as though your plant(s) may be suffering from "Mummy Berry". A rapid fungus that that infects the blossom by releasing spores into the wind. If you notice tiny mushrooms near by- eradicate them. It may be best to destroy the plant entirely. But, to rid it you must be extremely vigilant. Collect the berries and toss them into a 'Hot" compost pile or remove them completely. If you find you cant get a handle on the disease- destroy the plant(s) and till a new spot.

Wait till next year, it should fix itself.

After adding vinegar, wait a few days to retest the soil's pH before adding any more. Once you get it to your desired pH, test again every 2 or 3 months until the pH stabilizes.

Misty is a Southern highbush, never been to Kansas but I'm pretty sure winters would be too cold for that variety. Misty does do well in containers however so that is an option. I don't have the other variety that I am aware of so no experience with those.

Hello, When I transplant, I make certain the location where they are going already has the holes dug. In our area we transplant in the fall NOVEMBER when all the leaves have dropped. Water the plant well so that transporting the root ball is moist. Dig up the plant and wrap the root ball in moist newspaper. Put plant in cardboard box. (Not sure how large the plant is you are transplanting). If your new transplanting location is someplace far away, don't let them set over night in a garage or car. I would get them there immediately after digging up and get them in the ground same day if possible. If that is not possible, you will need to keep them in a cool location - away from the sun and keep that newspaper moist. as you don't want the roots to dry out. Hope this helps...

Bluejay blueberry bushes grow almost twice as fast as other blueberry varieties so it is normal for it to be much bigger than the other bushes. Not blooming can be caused by being too close to the other bushes, not getting enough water or sun. Have you checked your soil to make sure that it is acid enough? Adding a bit of nitrogen and organic matter (compost or aged manure) to the soil may help the bushes to grow healthier.

Hi Michele,

Sometimes pruning will cause the bush not to bloom in the spring. You will have lots of blooms next spring. Adding ammonium sulfate to the soil will help the overall health of your blueberry bushes.

For best cross pollination plant two varieties that bloom at about the same time. The chart at the link below may be helpful.

http://portlandnursery.com/docs/fruits/BlueberryBloomTime...

Prune, prune, prune!

You can start small with just a handful of bushes. If your soil is perfect the bushes don't need much care. Read our planting and growing advice above.

For more local advice we suggest that you go to Michigan State university's extension service at http://blueberries.msu.edu/growing_blueberries

Hi Tim,

Are you sure these are the blueberry bushes that you planted? Look at photos of blueberry bushes online and compare the leaves. If you do think that these ar blueberries then see our care instructions above. You may need to test the soil to make sure that it is acidic enough and also make sure the bushes get enough sun.

It sounds like a pollination issue. Or, it may be a blueberry variety that is not self-pollinating. All blueberries benefit from companions of different varieties--and planting more than one variety is essential for blueberry plants that are not self-pollinating.

Here is a helpful guide from your Virginia cooperative extension which includes a chart of varieties by region: http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/438/438-103/438-103.html

A rabbiteye needs another rabbiteye for pollination and a highbush needs another highbush.

Blueberries cannot be fertilized by their own pollen. The best bet for blueberries is to have different varieties of blueberries  within 100 feet, so bees can travel and cross pollinate.  

Your Jersey should actually benefit from having another variety such as the Duke for pollination. You will get more and larger berries if you have a pollinator.They should be planted about 5 to 6 feet apart.

Blueberry leaves should not fall off in the spring. When you fertilize it is recommended that you sprinkle 1 1/2 tablespoons of fertilizer (per bush) about 18 inches from the base of the plant. Fertilizer should not touch the stems or the crown. Water your bushes and see if they will bounce back.

Bad news, please update us...

Some good rabbiteye varieties for your area are Garden Blue, Climax, Southland, Bluebelle and Brightblue. Blueberries need well-drained, acidic soil that is high in organic matter. We suggest that you test your soil before planting.

Hi Wilma,

Blueberries usually have buds before they leaf out. Don't pinch them off. You may get some nice berries this year.

It is generally good practice to plant several different blueberry varieties together to promote cross pollination. 

In the spring, dormant plants are planted as soon as the soil can be tilled. Your plants are coming out of dormancy.
If you are worried about a late frost, you could cover your blueberry bushes with fabric (found at garden shops).
Also, plant in areas less susceptible to frost (low-lying areas).
Water the soil; moist soil will allow surface heat to keep the bushes warm. Place buckets filled with warm water around the blueberry bushes at sunset before the frost at night.

The best blueberry for Texas is the rabbiteye blueberry (Vaccinium ashei). The Ochlockonee variety has the right number of chill hours for the Dallas area.

• Blueberries need soil that is acidic, high in organic matter, and well-drained yet moist. pH should ideally be between 4 and 5. You may want to test your soil's pH.
• Dig holes about 20 inches deep and 18 inches wide. Add organic matter (compost or aged manure) before planting the bushes about 5 feet apart.
•  

It's most important that the blueberries get a lot of sun. Heavier fruiting happens with more sunshine.It does not really matter if your rows face north-south or east-west as long as the bushes are not shaded by mature trees.

This is interesting as I am planting on a slight hill as well, my question is should I plant in raised beds or directly in the soil? Mr. B.

Yes, researchers at Ohio State University have proven that blueberries grown on raised beds produced comparable yields to blueberries grown on flat, tile-drained soil. Here's a fact sheet with blueberry varieties for Ohio:

http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/pdf/1422.pdf

If the bushes are healthy you should not have problems. Take as much of the rootball as possible and make sure to amend the soil in the new spot to match the soil where the bushes grew. Water and fertilize later in the season.
 

Blueberries can be propagated from softwood or hardwood cuttings (twigs). See websites below for more detailed information.

www.extension.org/pages/29211/blueberry-propagation#.Us70...

http://berrygrape.org/blueberry-propagation/

Some varieties of blueberries do well in hot climates. They will do better in containers that you then can move into shady areas during the hot summer afternoons. You can also control the soil better in a container. Blueberries love acid soil. Fertilize lightly 2 to 3 times a year.

The maximum cold hardiness for most Michigan varieties is about -18°F. If you purchased the varieties that are hardy for your zone, they should be OK. Add an acidic mulches (such as pine needles) and floating row covers for an extra layer of protection. The snow is helpful insulation, too. Do not fertilize after the blooming period; late fertilizing will encourage late growth in the fall which, in turn, can cause winter injury. 

Hello, Robert, Blueberries are planted in the spring as early as possible. However, you want to prepare the soil a year ahead with a lot of organic matter and the right pH levels based on a soil kit test. Here is a page that lists varieties of blueberries that grow well in West Virginia: http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/hortcult/fruits/groblueb.htm Hope this helps! --Your OFA editors

You also need more than one blueberry bush so they can fertilize one another.

Yes, throughout its life, prune out dead or weak, low-growing
shoots. Also, as your plant is four-years-old, you can head back young new shoots about 4 to 6 inches below the top of the bush so encourage branching and compact shape. When your plant is about 6-years-old, start removing 20% of the canes each year, starting with the oldest canes, so that over a five-year period, the entire crown of the plant will have been renewed.

Blueberry bushes are best planted in the early spring. However, you could also plant in the fall. Normally, we recommend that you prepare the soil in the fall. Soils not within the range of pH acceptability for blueberry plant growth must be prepared BEFORE planting.

You plant blueberry bushes in the ground in early spring.We recommend buying bare-rooted plants of two year, or higher grade. Highbush blueberries are most common in your area. ‘Earliblue’, ‘Duke’, ‘Blueray’, ‘Bluecrop’, ‘Sierra’, ‘Toro’, and 'Elliot’ are varieties grown in your part of New York. Two different varieties should be grown to get the best -sized fruit.

To do well, your blueberry bush will need at least 6 hours of sun per day, so it should not be shaded by other plants. You might try putting your tomato in a wire cage, which might help it to keep in its own space.

Also, the blueberry is more fussy about soil pH than the tomato and tomatillo. It will require a more acidic soil (between 4 and 5), than tomatoes. Tomatoes are OK in acidic soils, but do their best around 6.0 to 6.8. Tomatillos are similar. So, test your soil pH (you can get a kit at a garden center or have it tested by your county's Cooperative Extension) and adjust the soil pH to the blueberry's requirements. The tomatoes/tomatillos may not be as robust with the adjustment, but they should do OK. Then next year, if you have space, plant tomatoes and tomatillos in another area of the garden (which is good to deter diseases, too), so that the blueberry bush can have enough sun and space. For highbush blueberries, it's better to allow at least 3 to 6 feet between plants, for air circulation, which helps deter disease. For lowbush types, 1 to 3 feet is fine.

The browning may just be because it needs more light or does not have the proper soil pH (which affects how much nutrients it can absorb). Also check that the plant has good drainage and is not being attacked by diseases or pests.

Some blueberries may take about 6 years to produce fully. However, yellow leaves indicates that something else is going on, and can mean several things. First, check the pH of the soil (you can get a kit at a garden center, or have your soil tested by your county's Cooperative Extension). If your blueberry bush is not in the proper pH soil (between 4 and 5), it has a hard time absorbing nutrients, which causes nutrient deficiencies that can cause yellow leaves and other problems. Also, if you over- or under-fertilize, this again can cause yellowing leaves. Iron deficiency is common and starts with the newer leaves (yellow leaves with green veins), and then spreads to the older ones; it usually means that the soil pH is too high. Nitrogen (leaves and veins yellow) deficiency usually appears on older leaves first.

Also make sure your plant has at least 6 hours of sunlight each day, and good drainage so that the roots don't sit in water, and that the soil is loose, not compacted, which can cause damage to the roots. Check for insects, such as aphids, and diseases (such as blueberry stunt or stem blight).

Here is a good reference article on reasons why a blueberry bush isn't fruiting: http://www.michigangardener.com/growing-blueberries-why-d...

We would really need more information. Where do you live? What varieties? Are you giving them the very acidic soil they need? Blueberries prefer a soil pH between 4.5–5.0. You may want to identify the variety first by sending samples to your local cooperative extension; they can also help you with a soil test so you know how to prepare your soil appropriately.

It depends on the variety, but the berries should start ripening in mid to late July and peak production generally occurs from early to mid August.

Kathleen, you may find this page helpful: http://www.michigangardener.com/growing-blueberries-why-d..." target="_blank">http://www.michigangardener.com/growing-blueberries-why-d...

We'd guess birds. Birds will completely nail your blueberries as soon as they ripen. 
Are your bushes covered in netting?
Even with bird netting, we have heard stories of gangs of robins.
All kinds of birds love blueberries. You'll find bird species that you never knew existed.
You can find netting at home improvement stores and garden centers.
A 30% shade fabric in a 14 or 20 foot widths for use over single or double rows will last many years.

For older blueberry bushes, you need to prune. Also, make sure you thin early in the season. Remove blooms and berries so it's not overloaded with fruit and has more leaves versus fruit.

Yes, blueberries grow in containers. We'd suggest a 5-gallon container. You need to prepare an acidic soilless growing medium. Mix one part sphagnum peat moss and one part shredded pine bark. As the plant matures, repot it in a larger container or barrel. The challenge with containers is generally watering. Don't let the plant dry out; at the same time, we don't want the plant to have soggy roots. Keep it moist with light watering and occasional drench to get rid of soil salts. In a container, blueberries need to be fed with the appropriate fertilizers--a mix of liquid and slow-release acid fertilizers. Contact your county Extension agent about the best varieties for your area and what's best for each variety.

Blueberries should be planted while dormant, usually from November through March.

Hi Steve, Spacing depends on the variety of blueberry. We use 4 to 5 feet apart as a general rule but you can see that some compact plants get 2 feet: www.burpee.com/fruit-plants/blueberry-plants/

Even most small blueberry operations harvest their fruit by hand. Mechanical harvesters are available, but you need a large planting to justify the expense--and many of the berries aren't fit for fresh consumption and better for frozen use. Blueberries are harvested most quickly when they are at peak ripeness. Look for the whitish, dusty appearance (bloom) of the blueberry. Harvest when it's the coolest part of the day. To easily remove from the bush, use the thumb and forefinger, keeping the hand cupped under the berry to avoid dropping it. Use pint cuts or buckets that are no larger than 5 quarts so the berries don't get mashed or too hot. Never leave berries in the sun; cool the fruit as soon as possible. We hope this helps.

If your bushes are in rows you can lay sheets or unroll bolts of cloth on either side, slightly overlapped in the middle. I like to prop up the outside edges of sheets slightly - long foam rods such as used in swimming pools for play are great if set under the cloth outer edges so berries do not roll off of the cloth. Shake bushes gently and ripe berries fall. If unripe berries fall you are shaking too hard. Collect by gently sweeping up with a clean broom and dust pan or pick up cloth to gently dump into baskets, then wash and sort. Slightly unripe berries can be left spread out over night indoors and will continue to ripen for a day.

Google "Dirty Jobs blueberry", watch the Discover Channel clip and take a look at what appear to be custom hand made tools specifically for harvesting blueberries (though they might only work for the rabbit eye type) in this clip from Dirty Jobs Also, studies have shown that 'all caps' text is harder to read so if ya want people to understand ya better, go with standard text :)

Hi Jody, I'm not sure where you live but here is an interesting page on unusual berries (including pictures); http://www.pickyourown.org/unusualfruits.htm

Sharpblue is hardy in Zones 7b to 10. Chandler is Zones 5 to 7. We don't know where you live in New York and there is a large range so please check here: http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/

Blueberries grow well if they have the right soil. They need acid soil with a pH range of 4.5 to 5.2. Add peat moss to acidify the soil if needed and make sure the soil's high in organic matter.

Hmmm. Blueberry bushes aren't usually this tall. Take a clipping to your local garden center or cooperative extension to make sure it's a blueberry bush. Blueberry produce smaller berries when they are overloaded with fruits. Thin out older, overgrown branches.

By Byeargan, it sounds like you have a shad bush tree, also known as Serviceberry (botanical name Amelanchier). You're right, the berries certainly do resemble blueberries and are actually pretty tasty when fully ripe. Enjoy that tree and fruit. Keep in mind it can easily grow much taller making it difficult to pick the upper berries but you can let the birds have the ones you can't reach! Happy Berry Pickin'!

Blueberry plants are self-fertile (i.e., they contain both male and female parts in each flower). So, no worries. However, it's always good to have different varieties to aide pollination to ensure you get fruit.

Blueberries have a shallow root system that spreads easily. As you've found, suckers can sprout up some distance from the bush. You'll need to remove the suckers to prevent the bush becoming too spread out.

They thrive in full sun for maximum berry production but will tolerate partial shade, especially late in the day. Make sure that they are near a garden hose or water source. Blueberries require more water than most fruits so the surface roots do not dry out; they prefer quality (deep) watering, not just water on the surface.

Ideally, she'd want different varieties of blueberries within 100 feet, so bees can travel and cross pollinate.

The plants should have come with instructions about storing and planting. Place the plants in a cool and dark place. Add a little water to the soil in the bags if the soil seems dry. Do not allow the roots to dry out. Plant them as soon as possible.

The bushes should do OK. Have you had your soil tested to make sure that it is acid enough? Do not over fertilize the bushes. You can use a little blood meal or fish meal to add nitrogen. Peat moss or coffee grounds add to the acidity that the bushes need.

Your cooperative extension service has information about local gardening. http://www.unce.unr.edu/programs/horticulture/