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Want to grow fresh, flavorful fruit but short on space? Grab a few containers and get planting! With the right soil and care, you can grow raspberries, currants, and blueberries in pots—even if you’re working with a balcony or small backyard. Not only are potted berries easy to maintain, but they’re also more protected from pests and easier to harvest.
Why grow fruit in pots? Fruits grown in containers are easier to protect from birds and other critters, more disease-resistant, and easier to harvest. Potted berries can be picked when ripe by placing their container on a bed sheet or tarp and shaking the pot. Plus, you can grow fruit like blueberries even if your garden doesn’t have the right soil!
We will demonstrate the best potting mix to use for fruit, plus more tips for growing these irresistible crops in containers.
Raspberries are always going to be a winner. Like all berries, they are absolutely loaded with vitamins and antioxidants—all the good stuff. They are highly versatile in the kitchen and, given what they cost in the grocery store, growing raspberries will give you plenty of bang for your buck! Try a smaller variety perfect for container growing, under 3 feet tall; unlike traditional varieties with longer canes, there’s no need for supports. Plant in a wide container that holds about 8 gallons of potting mix to provide plenty of space for both the roots and the canes to spread out.
Raspberries prefer a slightly acidic soil, which helps prevent nutrient deficiencies. So while the bulk of my potting mix can just be a general-purpose mix, add in some peat-free potting mix for acid-loving plants, also sold as ericaceous, or rhododendron or azalea mix. We want a ratio of roughly 80% general-purpose potting mix to 20% acid mix. The acidic mix is soil-based, which will add extra weight and stability to the container. Soil holds onto moisture a bit better too, so it shouldn’t dry out as quickly.
Planting raspberries couldn’t be simpler. Remove them from their pots, then pick away at the roots if they have been tightly coiled up against the edge of the pots. Don’t be shy about this stage, as it will help the roots to find their way out into the fresh potting mix that little bit faster. Set them in at the same depth, firm them in, then give everything a thorough watering to settle the mix.
If you’re planting a bare-root plant, you can tell where the previous soil level was by the dark mark on the canes; make sure all of the darker area is covered. Finishing off with a natural mulch not only gives a really smart finish, it will also help to keep the roots cooler in hot weather. And organic mulches will naturally rot down over time. Something like a finer wood chip mulch is perfect.
Raspberries and currants growing in pots. Credit: Julija Ogrodowski/Shutterstock
Growing Currants in Containers
Currants are superb in containers, too. Both red and white currants can be trained into compact cordons and fans, or grown as standard bushes. What patio, terrace, or balcony wouldn’t look better with one of these! Blackcurrants are also good to try, but as this is the most vigorous of the currants and can’t be trained, choose a more compact variety.
Red currants are certainly the most popular. Use a soil-based potting mix together with a container that’s at least 18 inches in diameter. Plant it just like the raspberries (above), teasing out the roots, then settling it in at the same level it was at before. Finish off with a mulch of bark chippings.
Currants grow best in a sheltered, sunny spot, but they’ll also tolerate a little dappled shade. During the growing season, they will need watering regularly to keep from drying out, but the bigger danger is getting too wet from heavy rains and the roots rotting as a result, so make sure excess water can drain out by simply raising the container up onto pot feet or pebbles. And if you’re somewhere that gets very cold winters, move them undercover or insulate the containers with something like bubble wrap to stop the roots from freezing too hard.
Feeding currants couldn’t be easier. Apply a liquid tomato feed every few weeks during the growing season or tickle in a slow-release balanced fertilizer at the start of spring.
Beeeautiful blueberries! Who doesn’t love snaffling them straight off the bush? But if they do make it into the kitchen, remember they can also be frozen just as they are—no prep needed. And that applies to all berries and currants. They’re such great freezer staples and can be on hand at any time of the year to bring a little burst of sweet joy whenever needed.
Growing blueberries in pots in the garden. Credit: mutsu7211/Shutterstock
Blueberries need a really acidic soil to thrive, with a pH somewhere between 4.0 and 5.5. Get this right and offer them a sunny spot, and they’ll thrive. So for blueberries, you’ll once again need an acidic or ericaceous mix. Eek it out by adding, say, 30-40% garden compost to the mix, or even some wood chips.
After the first summer crop, you can pot your blueberries into a larger container in the spring; freshen up the top layer of soil by just scraping it out and replacing it with fresh soil. And then finish up with more wood chip mulch.
To keep the soil acidic and plants happy, it’s best to water blueberries using rainwater, and the same goes for all of our berry fruits. Once growth reaches full speed in spring, commence feeding every 3 weeks or so using an acid-loving plant feed.
Birds are notorious for stealing ripening berries! The simplest way to keep them off is to cover plants with netting. But don’t just drape the netting straight onto the plant. Instead, create a framework to sit the netting on. That way, the birds won’t be able to peck through it, and there’s less risk of them getting caught up in it, too. Something like a cane teepee works well, for example, or you could create more of a box framework if you have quite a few potted fruits to protect by attaching horizontal canes to uprights, and then draping the netting over that.
Tim Goodwin joined the Old Farmer’s Almanac team as associate editor in October 2021. In this role, he is responsible for many aspects of the Almanac—proofreading, fact-checking, compiling data, editi...
Will they winter over? I live in Fort Erie Canada and we get some wicked storms.
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Geri ReskiWed, 10/27/2021 - 08:44
..because…I learned some blueberry plants will get “sunburned” in some areas and are not recommended for certain zones. Having purchased Top Hat for our greenhouse and am in zone 7, quickly found out it needs partial shade because our sunny days literally cooked the plant. Our local nursery carried blueberry plants more suited to our climate and is thriving.
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Emma SimeoneFri, 10/05/2018 - 10:02
I planted two Pink Lemonade Blueberry plants, two summers ago. One looks like its doing ok and gave me four or five berries this summer. The other one looks like its going to die because the branchs look brown and the leaves fell off by mid August. Can I still transplant to a pot? Please advise. also I live in Pennsylvannia, Zone 6.
Most of the problems that most people have with plants starts with the soil. Blueberries need acidic soil—that's soil with a pH between 4.5 and 5.5. Whether you leave it or move it to a pot, the soil question has to be addressed. Blueberries also crave organic matter—compost, aged manure...good stuff. So test your soil and amend as needed. You will find more information here: https://www.almanac.com/plant/blueberries
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Lesley BrunsonFri, 10/05/2018 - 09:22
Hi! Your articles are very helpful! Is it worth trying cherries in a pot in Zone 7B 8a in central NC? If so, when should I start the plant?
Thanks, Leslie. We have more for you. Is it worth it? Depends. You need to check the cherry variety and its needs and see how those correspond to/match your climate conditions. When to start the plant...? From seed?? If it's a seed, why any time! If it's a tree, we suggest that you peruse this page: https://www.almanac.com/plant/cherries and then consult the nursery from which you are getting it.
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Angela MonaghanThu, 03/08/2018 - 08:28
Hi, This concept thrills me. I have lousy soil, thus anything I grow is in pots (except over the septic bed where everything grows well - but I can't plant anything edible there). Because of the harsh winters I experience (I'm in Tiny, Ontario, on the shores of Georgian Bay) I've only tried annuals in pots. Blueberries are perennials. I'm open for suggestions about how to plant blueberries in pots that will survive the winter. Thank you.
As you live in such a cold-winter climate, some containers can be brought indoors--for example, in an unheated garage. If kept outside, insulate your plants by mulching and wrapping in burlap. Blueberries are quite hardy and can survive winters. Move your containers against a building or into a protected area to keep them out of the wind. They don't need to be watered much in wintertime; just make sure they don't try out.
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Ronna Sun, 01/08/2023 - 11:44
There are wild blueberries that survive in Alaska. Is it colder in Tiny, Ontario than in Alaska?
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Ruth KuhnThu, 09/28/2017 - 12:11
I have blueberries in containers and they won't grow?
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William G CurtazFri, 09/29/2017 - 11:13
I can't ask you all the questions I would normally ask, so I will ask the important one. What is the ph of the soil in which your blueberry plants are planted? It should be 4.5 to 5.0 ph. They require an acid soil. I grow my blueberries in half wine barrels. I hope this helps.
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Jeanne CloutierThu, 09/28/2017 - 09:43
Where do I purchase this Shrub and would it produce fruit while I winter in AZ from November through April?
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Augustine RhodesFri, 03/17/2017 - 12:17
I enjoyed the article regarding growing fruit (blueberries and cherries) in pots for a larger yield. Do you know if they will be ok to grow in Zone 8b? I have never heard of Carmine Jewel or the Pink Champagne berry and Top Hat blueberry. Please advise
Hi Augustine, Unfortunately, these berries mentioned aren't zoned for 8b. The Carmine Jewel Cherry grows in zones 2b to 7; the Top Hat Blueberry grows in zones 3 to 7, as does the Pink Champagne Current. However, there are plenty of berries that you could grow in zone 8b. We've grown Pink Lemonade blueberries in large pots and they do great. It might be best to speak to a local nursery or cooperative extension.
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Samantha GraySun, 03/12/2017 - 14:22
When we first bought our house - new and one of three built on an abandoned corner on this hilltop, there was a huge stand of wild blackberries in one corner of the yard. The builder said "I'll get those out for you" and I replied "Over my dead body you will!!" I grew up on a farm in Va. and knew the value of wild fruit. I cut back the dead canes yearly, toss in a bit of Miracle grow, and get a couple of gallons of fruit every year. Some canes produce a sweet fruit, some a more acidic type, but it's all good. The more acidic I use in blackberry muffins. We dig wandering shoots out of the laurel and rose of Sharon each year as well, but the effort is worth it. The wild blackberries are a bit smaller than the cultivars one buys, but completely hardy: disease-free and tolerate hot, humid summers and the bitter winds coming off the harbor each winter. I wouldn't be without those bushes!
Hi, Samantha—this is such a great story! So happy for you—and envious of your brambles! Good for you for saving them from the builder. About the maintenance, your story is proof—and reason—why nothing good comes easy. But the good is soooo good! Bon berry-ppetit!
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PamSun, 03/12/2017 - 10:43
I live in the mountains of Colorado. At approx 8,000 feet. What kind of fruit, if any, can I grow up here? I don't care much for blueberries, but I do love cherries and purple figs. Actully, any suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks.
• Tree fruits specifically adapted to Idaho’s harsher climates include apples, pears, pie cherries, plums, and some late-blooming apricots. Varieties of each fruit crop vary widely in winter hardiness and timing of fruit maturity. This is from here and may provide more details: https://www.cals.uidaho.edu/edcomm/pdf/BUL/BUL0867.pdf (Yes, it's Idaho, but we thought it would be of interest because it's about altitude.)
Loved the article, just bought my 1st fruit plant, and SUPER EXCITED!!!
We got a Pink Lemonade blueberry plant, per your article if I am reading correctly, you can continue growth in pots instead of planting outside? (as long as you repot, and continue to increase pot size based on size increase of plant?)
Also I 've been reading on some plants best to have 2 of same type of plant for good growth, is this needed/ true for pink lemonade blueberries?
Any tips, greatly appreciated!!! (not sure if needed, but I live in WI) Thanks!! :)
The 'Pink Lemonade' is self-pollinating but it is recommended that another rabbiteye cultivar ('Tifblue' or 'Climax' for example) be planted close by to ensure lots of berries.
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Janet Smith Mon, 02/22/2016 - 21:28
Hi, I have a question, I have a beautiful blueberry plant in a container, in full bloom. My question is should I wait to plant it in my yard until after the berries come and go? Thanks!
Jan in N Fl.
Wait to plant the bush in the yard. Enjoy the berries and then plant it in the ground. Please see our bluberry page at http://www.almanac.com/plant/blueberries. For northern regions we recommend an early spring planting before the plants bloom.
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Deborah DyeSun, 02/07/2016 - 16:19
If I were to pot some blueberries and a Cherry or two this spring, what do I do with them at seasons end? My garage is unheated as you stated yours is but I live in central Iowa. My garage can get very cold. If I store them somewhere when do I bring them back out again? Would I need to repot them with new potting soil? How many years could I expect to keep them this way?
You can store the containers in your garage. You can wrap a blanket or two around the pots to insulated them a little bit. You will need to water the plants periodically over the winter, maybe two or three times. It is important to monitor soil moisture through the winter storage period. After a couple of years you may need to repot the plants in bigger pots with fresh soil.
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Diana AylorMon, 05/04/2015 - 21:44
Could you tell me what size pot/tub would be appropriate for a Pink Lemonade Blueberry?
For blueberries, we'd start out with one at least 12 inches wide by 18 inches deep.
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Sharon MortonThu, 04/23/2015 - 17:58
I bought the Top Hat for a pot on my deck, but noticed after bringing it home that it suggested to have a second bush for pollinating. Is this necessary?
It also mentioned using saw dust further down in the pot....? why?
Thank you.
You don't need another bush, but yields will likely be higher if you have a different variety nearby. In addition to mulch, composted sawdust mixed into the soil is beneficial to the growth of the plant.
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Emma WoodFri, 12/19/2014 - 21:06
I personally love my blueberry bushes. I purchased them about six years ago from Online Plant Nursery. Waiting for them to produce fresh berries each year is like waiting on Christmas morning. Me and the kids anticipate them just waiting to pick the fresh berries so we can use them in fresh jam, jellies, pies or eat them fresh! If you love blueberries, go for planting a small crop of them!
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Cayla TaylorThu, 12/18/2014 - 23:36
I love reading all these great articles regarding blueberries. I have a small fruit orchard behind my house and have roughly about 7 blueberry bushes. My kids wait for fresh blueberries similar to waiting to open gifts on Christmas morning! We freeze them, eat them fresh and can them. The possibilities are endless. I purchased mine from (Online Nursery Co) several years ago and they are still thriving well!
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Ives From MsuSat, 02/25/2012 - 21:29
Doreen,
I love reading your articles! Coming from Michigan and being a sparty alumni I do know the Top Hat variety is from Michigan State and not U of M. You may check with any nursery. MSU did of course used to be Michigan Agriculture College, and remains to be a top agriculture research university. Go green!
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Ebey IslandTue, 01/17/2012 - 22:26
Where is a good place to order some? Does it usually fruit the first year or second?
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Doreen G. HowardWed, 01/18/2012 - 16:53
A number of mail order catalogs are featuring Pink Lemonade blueberries. Spring Hill, Burpee's and Shumway's come to mind. You can also use a search engine to find retailers who sell them. They will fruit the second year in a container and the third year in the ground. The first year, plants are establishing roots systems, growing branches and creating fruit buds for the next season.
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Will they winter over? I live in Fort Erie Canada and we get some wicked storms.