Planting, Growing, and Caring for Gladiolus
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Planting
For the best blooms, plant glads in full sun (6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day) in well-drained soil that’s moderately fertile. They will not do well in heavy, soggy soil. Mix compost (humus) into your soil to improve consistency and fertility.
When to Plant Gladiolus
- Start planting gladiolus corms in the spring once the danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed to at least 55°F (13°C). See your local frost dates here.
- From your last frost date to early summer, plant another round of corms every ten days or so. This will result in continuous blooms through early fall!
- Depending on the variety, it takes between 60 and 90 days from the time glads are planted for the corms to root, grow, and bloom.
How to Plant Gladiolus
- Ready your garden by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to about 12 to 15 inches deep. After loosening the soil, mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost or aged manure.
- To ensure large-sized blooms, plant corms that are 1¼ inch or larger in diameter.
- Set the corm in the hole about 4 inches deep with the pointed end facing up. Cover with soil and press firmly.
- Space the corms 6 to 8 inches apart.
- If you grow gladioli primarily for cut flowers, plant them in rows. It’s easier to tend the plants and to harvest the flowers.
- If planted with other flowers in borders or annual beds, plant the corms in groups of 7 or more for the best effect.
- Water the corms thoroughly at planting.
- If you’re planting tall varieties, be sure to stake them at planting time. Be careful not to damage the corms with the stakes.
Growing
How to Grow Gladiolus
- Put a 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch around your gladioli to keep your soil moist and help prevent weeds.
- If you get less than 1 inch of rain a week, water your plants regularly throughout the summer. Otherwise, water them moderately when they are growing to keep the soil moist.
- Remove the faded/dead flowers to ensure continuous blooms. Once all the flowers on a stalk are gone, cut the stalk off at about 2 to 3 inches above the soil.
- Be sure to leave the plant intact so it can mature and grow the corms for the next season.
Winter Protection for Gladiolus
- If you live in USDA Hardiness Zone 8 or warmer, put down a layer of hay or straw for winter protection. Gladiolus can remain in the ground through winter, provided a hard freeze (28°F or colder) isn’t common in your area.
- In colder regions (Zone 7 or colder), dig up gladioli corms once the foliage has faded after the first fall frost. A light frost will kill the foliage but not the rest of the plant. Be sure to dig up the gladiolus corms before a hard freeze (28°F), or the plants could be fatally damaged.
- All that said, many gardeners who live in the “border” zones 6 and 7 have tried leaving them glads in the ground and found that they survived; this is a judgment call based on your microclimate, your variety of gladiolus, and climate shifts.
Digging Up and Storing Gladioli Corms
To dig up the gladioli corms for winter storage, follow these tips:
- Use a spade and dig up the entire plant, grasping the top to pull it out of the soil. Avoid bruising or injuring corms while digging. Shake off all loose soil (do not wash them off) and discard damaged corms. Cut the stalk down to 1 to 2 inches above the corm. Save the small cormels separately if you so desire. These will bloom in 2 to 3 years if you replant them each spring.
- Allow the corms to dry in the sun for 1 or 2 days if the weather agrees. Sift out excess soil and place corms in wooden flats or trays. Cure in a warm and airy location for 2-3 weeks. Remove and throw away the oldest bottom corms (from the base of the new ones).
- Don’t remove the husks on the corms.
- Dust the corms with a fungicide (“bulb dust”) to avoid disease problems. Place dust and bulbs in a paper bag and shake vigorously.
- Store the corms in paper or cloth bags, pantyhose, or old onion sacks. Stack or hang the containers so air can move among them. Store the corms at 35 to 45°F (2 to 7°C) in low humidity. A cool basement is quite suitable. Do not allow corms to freeze.
- Replant these corms in the spring for another year of beautiful blooms.
Learn more tips for storing gladiolus through the winter.
Gladioli come in a variety of sizes and colors, with the most popular being part of the following hybrid groups:
- Grandiflora Hybrids: These are the classic gladioli that produce a plentiful amount of large (5- to 6-inch) blooms in a range of colors. The plants produce flower stalks that reach up to 4 feet in height and are winter hardy to Zone 7.
- Dwarf Grandiflora Hybrids: These miniature glads are an excellent choice for containers and cutting gardens, as their flowers are about half the size of Grandifloras, and their shorter stalks don’t typically require staking. They are also winter hardy to Zone 7. Glamini gladioli are included in this group; they are pest-resistant and will bloom in full sun or partial shade.
- Nanus Hybrids: Hardy to Zone 5, these smaller gladioli look a lot like Grandifloras, but do not produce as many flowers. They tend to grow no larger than about 2 feet in height, which makes them perfect for containers or small spaces.
Some specific gladiolus varieties of note include:
- ‘Black Star,’ which has deep purple-red blooms
- ‘Candyman,’ for its beautiful, deep pink flowers
- ‘Costa,’ which sports ruffled flowers in blue-purple
- ‘Dream’s End,’ which makes a good background plant because its flower spike is up to 3 feet tall (and it has pretty light orange flowers with large yellow centers)
- ‘Fun Time,’ which has yellow flowers edged with red
- ‘Green Time,’ for its unusual lime-green flowers
- ‘Prins Claus,’ which has white flowers with splashes of pink on its petals
- ‘Priscilla,’ which produces off-white flowers with a yellow center and a pink edge
Harvesting
To cut glads for bouquets, follow these tips:
- Cut the flower stalks early in the morning or at night, not during the heat of the day.
- Use a sharp knife and bring a bucket of lukewarm water to the flower bed; cut diagonally through the stalks and place in the bucket.
- Cut stalks with only one or two open flowers. The rest of the buds will open after you put them in a vase. Leave at least four leaves on the plant in the ground if you want to reuse the corms.
- Place the bucket with the flowers in a cool dark place for a few hours before arranging them in a vase.
- Remove lower fading flowers and cut about 1 inch off the bottom of each flower stalk every few days.
Catherine Boeckmann
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Hi Debora,
The best way to plant gladiolus is to space the corms about 4 to 6 inches apart (whether in a grouping or in a line formation). What is key is staking tall varieties at planting time (making sure not to damage corms when installing the stakes). If your flower spikes are unsupported and breaking, it makes sense the flowers are dying, as damaged stalks disrupt the flow of water and nutrients. The plant is in survival mode, which means flower production is last on its list of priorities!
I PLANTED GLADIOLUS IN LARGE POTS , W/DRAINAGE HOLES 3 MONTHS AGO ,ALL I HAVE IS 30'' GREEN STALKS,NO FLOWERS, WILL THEY NOT GET FLOWERS THE 1st YEAR?I LIVE IN DE AND EVERYTHING ELSE HAS ALREADY BLOOMED EXCEPT THEM WHAT'S UP?
Your glads should bloom this year. It takes about 90 to 100 days from the time gladioli are planted to root, grow, bloom, and store enough energy for the next season. You may want to try adding some compost or aged manure to your pots.
I do not have a green thumb! But I did get some Gladiolus Pretty Pinks. I was so amazed when they started coming up!! They are now almost 2 1/2 feet tall. I was worried about planting them outdoors. The Texas soil is like Mud!!! So I bought a big 14 inch pot and planted the bulbs in that, they are indoors. I spaced the bulbs apart like it said. ( 4 ) of them. There are no flowers yet, but the green leaves are so long they are drooping over!! Are they suppose to droop? They don't look at all like they are dying. But still No flowers. What can I do to avoid them drooping over. Thank you. Diane
I'm moving its June in Ohio. Can I dig and replant them now or will it kill them ?
Hi, Melissa, As noted above, it’s important to leave the foliage intact/attached, after the flower fades, to enable the plant to thrive. You should be able to transplant if you use a little extra TLC: lift the glad bulb (corm) with a lot of the soil it is planted it. Go deep for the roots, as far as you are able. Set the into a container or box. When you get to your new place, rather than replant—because you will be lifting again in fall—maintain the bulbs in the container/s. In fall, procede to store them as described above.
Just out of curiosity, what are the strange pods that form where each blossom has been?
how do I trim the flower from the plant?
David, do you mean to cut the stem and display the flower? If so, cut it in such a way that you have a length of stem below the last bud—you want to plant the stem into a vase with the last stem out of water. Take a sharp knife and slice the stem.
Can you tell me how tiny pea- sized baby bulbs -that are separated from the mother bulb -continue to grow without roots of their own?I continue to plant and store every year but don't how they continue to mature if they have fallen off the mother bulb. Do I keep burying in pot w mature bulbs as I feed and grow thru the season? Help! Cannot find this info anywhere
