Strawberries: Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Strawberries at Home

The EditorsTue, 04/18/2023 - 10:48

Hi Frank, Sorry to hear about your strawberry crop. That must have been a disappointing discovery. While most of the pests that harm strawberry plants are insects, they would not have eaten the plants down to the soil. You certainly had some hungry (and stealth) critters around your property that took an extreme liking to your strawberry plants. Whether your crowns remain in tact for future growth or you plant new strawberries for next year, it might be a good idea to put up some sort of fencing or barrier around your raised beds as a deterrent.

While this does not sound like the case with your strawberries, since you said that you never cut back your strawberries, this is a good opportunity to mention that after harvesting your crop, it is best to cut back the foliage to 1-inch above the ground. This helps to remove older leaves that could be infected with diseases and control insects by removing their food source and potential breeding sites.

Louise Mon, 04/29/2024 - 11:35

Came home to deer eating my strawberry plants, the whole plant and not just the ones with berries!

CollinThu, 12/19/2024 - 05:26

I needed to thank you for this very good read!! I absolutely enjoyed every little bit of it. I have got you book-marked to check out new things you post… My blog; https://virdsam.autos/live-draw-hk/">Live Hongkong Pools

JennaayTue, 09/20/2022 - 15:20

Can I grow the runners indoors once I've cut them off? If so, how? Hydroponics or planted? They don't have time to establish roots outdoors and I hate to waste the 20 baby plants. ALL have large nodes for roots.

KathyFri, 11/24/2023 - 14:34

Yes you can plant runners indoors in in pots until you can put them outside. Depending on your type of plant, it may continue to bloom and grow berries. I had a new deck built, strawberries were growing around support posts and had to be removed during construction. I removed and potted all. Put a baby runner in a single pot and the remaining bunch of plants in a huge pot. All are indoor since construction continued into December. I'm hoping all survive through winter till spring so I can transplant. Good luck with your strawberries. I bought a really hardy everberring plant. It's continuing to ripen fruit in front of patio door. I'm amazed that the original plant and the dozen of runner plants did so well.

The EditorsMon, 03/29/2021 - 14:02

This is no easy task. Herbicides are frequently mentioned in general searches but you don't want to use that, esp near edibles. Vinegar is cited but it may only slow ttop growth--and may affect you good berries too. Hand removal is by hand, and this is best done when soon after a rain or when the ground is wet.

Candace M. WilliamsSun, 06/12/2022 - 14:45

Mulch with sand n compost covering the undesirable plants and leaving the others to thrive.

The EditorsMon, 01/18/2021 - 16:39

Raised beds are great for strawberries. June-bearing strawberries still need to be planted about 18 inches apart so the crown — the growth point where roots and shoots join — is level with the soil surface. It doesn't matter if your plants are in a row, raised mounds, or a raised bed. The first year, you should pinch off any flowers so the plants will develop to their full potential. The second year you can start harvesting berries. The runners -- long stems that run off the central plant and create more strawberry plants -- need to be trimmed when you see them develop. Or, they drain nutrients from the main plant plus your bed will become a jumble of crowded plants, none of them doing very well.

The EditorsFri, 09/18/2020 - 16:34

Hi Martha, First, we're going to assume they're not woodland strawberries which are finger-nail size. Otherwise, there are many reasons for smaller fruit: 1. Freezes or cold snaps and winter injury, 2. Poor pollination due to rainy, windy weather or lack of pollinators, 3. Too much heat; strawberries like temperate climates and will be stressed in heat, 4. Drought/not enough water. Strawberries must be watered adequately (but not over-watered). Soil must drain well with no standing water. 5. Too much nitrogen in your fertilizer would lead to lush greenergy but small fruit 6. Crowding. Strawberries need the right spacing to put out those runners. 7. Improper planting at the start. The crown of the strawberry must be at soil level (not to high or low). 8. Full sun (at least 8 hours per day), Many of these factors are common to all fruiting plants.

The EditorsFri, 09/18/2020 - 16:20

Yes, many of us gardeners assume the common name "strawberry" stems from the fact the plant is most often mulched with straw during the winter. The exact origin of the common name is uncertain. According to https://www.etymonline.com/word/strawberry">etymologists, the prevailing theory is that the straw may reference the tiny chaff-like external seeds which cover the fruit. Another theory is that the name strawberry probably is a corruption of "strewn berry" which references the fact that, as a strawberry plant produced runners and spread, its berries were strewn about the ground. Other sources suggest its name stems from the fact that English youth picked wild strawberries and sold them impaled on grass straws to the public.

The EditorsFri, 09/18/2020 - 16:13

‘Sunrise’ is an early-season June-Bearing Strawberry variety that produces ample runners. See references:

http://chemung.cce.cornell.edu/resources/strawberries

https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/strawberry-types/

We're not sure where you can buy it, but you may want contact your local county cooperative extension.

The EditorsFri, 07/17/2020 - 09:24

Your questions are answered above in "How to grow strawberries."

Jeanette BowersWed, 10/23/2019 - 10:49

Hello - In response to your complaint, go to the top of the page and type in Strawberry Preserves. It'll take you to the video and have a working link for the recipe. Have a blessed day!

The EditorsSat, 03/07/2020 - 14:17

Thank you to Jeanette for taking the time to provide these helpful instructions! We have also updated the broken link for the https://www.almanac.com/video/how-make-strawberry-preserves">Strawberry Preserves Video.

The EditorsWed, 10/23/2019 - 16:29

Yes, if you've seen no new buds since June, it sounds like the plants have reached their limit. Everbearing don't produce many runners, but if they do have a few, you can use those to start your next generation.

The EditorsFri, 07/12/2019 - 12:05

Hi Tyler,

Strawberries are packed with Vitamin C (1 cup = 141% of your daily value). Vitamin C is an antioxidant necessary for immune and skin health.

Also, strawberries are also a good source of manganese (1 cup = 28% of your daily value) which is an element that is important for many processes in your body.

There are also small amounts of folate (vitamin B9), potassium, and several other vitamins and minerals.

The EditorsFri, 07/12/2019 - 12:10

Tyler, That is a good question and we'll make sure we update the article to provide more "depth," so to speak.

The planting depth for strawberries is very important. It's not a question of how many inches. You want to set the plant into the ground so that the roots are nicely covered with soil, but DO NOT BURY THE CROWN. The crown is the central growing bud, from which the leaves, flowers, and fruit arise. If you bury the crown, the plant could rot.

The EditorsMon, 06/17/2019 - 16:42

If the weather's dry enough, try placing some https://www.almanac.com/news/gardening/gardening-advice/w...">diatomaceous earth around your berries to prevent the ants from accessing them.

The EditorsThu, 03/28/2019 - 15:38

Yes, straw is commonly used around strawberries as mulch. Just be sure not to bury the strawberries themselves!

The EditorsThu, 09/06/2018 - 16:53

Yes, you can use grass clippings to mulch strawberries, as long as the grass comes from a pesticide-free area and there are no weeds' seeds mixed in. Straw is a better alternative, however. The important thing is that the mulch doesn't get too compacted and hold in excessive moisture.

Depending on where in the country you are, you'll want to wait until late October or early November to mulch. Don't cut the plants down before mulching, and use at least 4 inches of mulch—more if you are in a place that gets particularly cold winters.

Dhlw JayamanneTue, 01/01/2019 - 09:25

Are you sure that it will be succes in this way

The EditorsThu, 07/12/2018 - 11:04

You are ambitious! Tough question probably because there are variables re specific conditions (light, soil, moisture, etc) and, perhaps, varieties. We found recommendations for starting the seeds about 8 to 10 weeks before the plants are needed (for planting) and allowing, as you suggest, up to about 3 weeks for germination, which means third leaf/transplanting stage could be a 6 to 7 week period. Some suggest hardening off the plants, too, as you may know. Timing is one thing, though; your goal, it would seem, is to have strong plants, so if the process takes a little longer—or if the plants are ready a little sooner—you should be fine.

We hope this helps.

The EditorsThu, 07/12/2018 - 11:07

The first thing you need to do is weed the bed area. Decide whether you want berries or flowers where they blend together and remove what you do not want. Then improve the soil, as needed (see above), mulch (see above), and carry on (see above). Healthy plants are generally the best looking (re color, etc). See above for end of season care.

The EditorsMon, 02/05/2018 - 14:31

Strawberries might lack flavor for several reasons. If the flavor is consistently drab from year to year, it could be the variety that you are growing; some are developed more high yield and tolerating processing/shipping rather than for flavor. If flavor varies each year, it could be too much or too little water, or not enough sunlight. Check your soil, too. Make sure that the bed has plenty of nutrients and the soil is slightly acidic. Sandy soil is great for providing proper drainage. Allow each plant plenty of room to grow.

The EditorsWed, 06/28/2017 - 16:39

Keep up the hard work! The effort will be absolutely worth it. For first year transplanted strawberry plants, nip off any flower buds as they appear. The plant will use the extra energy to grow stronger roots and will have a larger crop of strawberries the next year. Try nipping most of the flower buds next year and give the plants a break to grow stronger. Strawberry plants are sensitive to drought due to their shallow roots, and require about 1 inch of water per week. Make sure they are getting enough water, and spread straw around the base of each plant to help conserve water and prevent weed growth. Also, weed diligently: Competition for root space and water could hamper your strawberry plants' efforts. Make sure each plant is about 8 inches apart from others. We hope this helps!

The EditorsThu, 06/01/2017 - 09:29

Strawberries sometimes develop oddly due to various factors, including damage from insects such as the tarnished plant bug or mites, or frost or heat injury, nutrient deficiencies (such as boron), chemical injury, etc. Poor pollination can also affect development. Another factor can be that the variety is not suited to the climate where it is grown, meaning that it does not have the proper length of daylight or the right temperatures.

The EditorsMon, 05/22/2017 - 15:43

Strawberries generally produce the best fruit when in full sun, but in hot and sunny areas like Phoenix, they will appreciate some afternoon shade instead (especially if their leaves are getting burnt up). You could also try some light-colored mulches, like straw or white plastic, to hold in more moisture around your strawberry plants.

The EditorsTue, 09/13/2016 - 15:47

There are several spacing systems for strawberries. The one mentioned above is likely the matte system. However, in the home landscape, you can grow strawberries more loosely, even as a ground cover, although they may not produce as much. If you are satisfied with your strawberries' production and health, then you might want to leave them alone. However, if they seem overcrowded, or you want them to produce more, you might start by thinning out the plants when they are dormant in fall. One idea would be to transplant any of the small plants that are growing off runners; keep the mother plants where they are. Plant the baby plants in the chosen prepared area, using the spacing that you want. Eventually, the original plants will slow their production (after about 4 years), and you might want to then pull those up and start over; meanwhile, you will have your new rows with the younger plants. Strawberries usually produce best in their second and third year. For more information, you might contact your county's Cooperative Extension; they might have publications on strawberry planting in your area. See: http://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-serv... to get started.

The EditorsThu, 08/11/2016 - 10:40

There are several reasons why your transplanted strawberries may not be doing well. Did you plant so that the crown is properly exposed after the soil is closed around the transplants? Plants do not fare well if placed too deep and grow poorly if placed too shallow. Also, frequent irrigation is critical during the first 4 weeks after planting.
Adding organic amendments such as composted horse manure is a great idea, however, it must be sufficiently composted -- when it looks and smells like soil.

The EditorsTue, 07/26/2016 - 16:48

Katrina, remember one thing: You can't fool Mother Nature (or her critters). Try netting on your berries; a lot of people use that to deter the birds and squirrels and, for the record, bunnies. And set up a pinwheel or other moving object of that sort. Think aluminum pie plates on a string, glittery dangling Christmas ornaments—even large scarecrows. (Situations like this is why people have been using scarecrows for centuries.) Be aware, however, that you might need a few such objects that you set up and move around; the critters realize pretty quickly that these are inanimate and pose no threat. You might scatter red pepper around . . . but you don't want that on the berries you eat. Another idea is to have a radio playing, especially tuned to a talk show; this has been known to deter some critters. All of these—and similar—ideas usually work . . . for a while. It's a challenge we all face.

Catherine BoeckmannMon, 06/27/2016 - 18:54

If you have June-bearing strawberries, you mow off the leaves right after harvest. Mow 1 inch above the crowns of the plants with a rotary mower. Then rake up the plant debris. After you mow, narrow the strawberry rows to 8-inch-wide strips. If your strawberry bed is a solid mat of plants, create strips that are 8 inches wide. Keep the younger plants and get rid of the old plants. Space the strips about 2 or 3 feet apart. Then apply fertilizer. Mulch in the late fall once the ground is already cold, and then remove mulch in late April.

The EditorsMon, 06/13/2016 - 14:42

Lemon balm and strawberries can happily co-exist in the same bed. No worries there.

The EditorsMon, 06/13/2016 - 14:40

To grow strawberries, the matted row technique is tried and tested, and should work well. In the first year after planting, remove any runners to give the plants time to establish.

The EditorsThu, 06/02/2016 - 10:23

Strawberries can be planted in a bed mixed with other plants, as long as they have room and full sun. If space is limited, you'll need to remove any (or at least, most) runners that develop; depending on variety, strawberries can be invasive and crowd out other plants if not kept in check (by removing runners). In a vegetable bed, strawberries do not do well with members of the cabbage family (cabbage, broccoli, etc.), but enjoy beans, lettuce, spinach, and onion as neighbors, as well as some herbs such as borage or caraway. Strawberries are susceptible to verticillium fungus--you might want to avoid planting it near other vegetables that are susceptible, such as tomatoes.

The EditorsTue, 05/17/2016 - 18:57

Strawberries are rarely grown from seed by the backyard gardener. The only reason you would seed is perhaps to propagate a rare variety. You normally buy them as small plants. However, if you wish to try growing strawberries from seed, keep in mind that they take a month to germinate and they will not produce until the following years.

Potato GraveyardWed, 06/13/2018 - 07:48

Strawberries and other berries require digestion by an animal in order to propagate by seed in nature. This can be duplicated by pseudo fermentation in a weak compost tea, it will still take quite a while to germinate even with the fermentation. Even in nature, the strawberry's primary means of reproduction is "daughtering".

The EditorsTue, 05/10/2016 - 17:50

Always, protect in times of a freeze threat. Better to be safe than sorry—and we hope this got to you in time!

The EditorsTue, 04/19/2016 - 15:47

Yes, even though strawberries are self-pollinating, you will get better quality and more yield if you allow pollinators access. When the strawberries begin to flower, you can remove the row covers, at least during the day. If the plants are used to being under row covers, you might gradually increase exposure for a few days before removing the cover completely.

The EditorsTue, 04/19/2016 - 16:16

Whether you keep the runners will depend on what planting system you use. The matted row system (good for June-bearing strawberries) keeps the runners, allowing them to root freely in rows; this system produces more strawberries, but they may be smaller than with other systems. The hill system (good for day-neutral and everbearing types) would remove the runners before planting, allowing only the mother plants to grow more crowns; this encourages larger strawberries but less of them. There are also other planting systems, but those are two basic ones. For the first year, unless you will be growing the strawberries as annuals, it is advisable to remove the flowers of June-bearing types, to allow the plants to spend their energies on growing roots and runners. For day-neutral and everbearing, usually the flowers would be removed the first year until the end of June, then allowed to flower/set fruit later in the season. (These are guidelines for the United States--I'm not sure how this translates to the growing season in your area.) Hope this helps!

The EditorsMon, 04/11/2016 - 13:59

You can plant your bareroot 'Quinault' strawberries directly in your strawberry pots. Follow the vendor's direction, if you have some. Usually, you may want to soak the dormant roots (but not crown) in water for about 30 minutes before planting. Also, generally you would trim the roots to about 6 inches long if they are longer than that (be sure not to injure the crown). Plant so that the crown is level with the soil (roots are not showing, but crown is not buried). Enjoy!

The EditorsMon, 03/14/2016 - 15:20

Spring and late summer are the best times to transplant strawberry plants. Move the plants as soon as the ground warms up and water well.

Jasmine BetanThu, 01/21/2016 - 19:26

I use it for home work too works great in agriculture science

The EditorsTue, 07/14/2015 - 10:17

These publications from Cooperative Extensions might help:

soil:

http://county.wsu.edu/spokane/gardening/Documents/C135%20...

http://www.soiltest.uconn.edu/factsheets/FertPracStrawber...

http://county.wsu.edu/spokane/gardening/general/Documents...

varieties:

https://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle...

for commercial growers, but some good information:

http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublications/FS132E/FS132E.pdf

The EditorsThu, 07/02/2015 - 09:32

Who knew, Don?! We would have suggested that the flavor was all in the variety, and it might be, but research suggests that you can fool Mother Nature and improve it yourself. Here are a few ideas: • strawberries grow in acidic soil, with high potassium content, have produced great-tasting berries. Apply a potassium-rich fertilizer—think a comfrey solution or molasses tonic (that's right)—every two weeks in summer. All of this, and more is explained here: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/gardening/howtogrow/fruitandve...

Dean1963Sun, 07/05/2015 - 19:49

Carolyn, look above to read about strawberry types. You have June-bearing berries that only give you a spring crop. Everbearing berries will give you a smaller crop, but it will go through the growing season.

The EditorsMon, 06/08/2015 - 15:25

If your strawberry bed is too crowded, renovate the planting. Start this immediately after the last harvest.
Here's a good article for reference: http://www.ipm.iastate.edu/ipm/hortnews/1998/6-12-1998/ne..." target="_blank">http://www.ipm.iastate.edu/ipm/hortnews/1998/6-12-1998/ne...

The EditorsTue, 06/02/2015 - 12:46

There are many different varieties of strawberries. Some will bloom again and produce more berries. If you have the names of the strawberries you can look them up online and see if they are everbearing.

In the fall cut off any dead leaves and cut the runners before storing the containers in the garage. Cover with a blanket or a towel and water the containers about once a month during the winter so that the roots don't dry up.

The EditorsThu, 05/28/2015 - 12:55

Hi, Jennifer: Not to worry. All things being equal, you should continue to have a nicely behaved bunch of strawberry patch kids. Thanks for asking!

Ty WilliamsTue, 05/26/2015 - 17:25

netting works great. Birds ,bunnies and other pest that enjoy strawberries will not want to get tangled in the netting. You can pick up at any garden nursery.

Judy WTue, 05/26/2015 - 20:54

You didn't answer her first question on what to put on top of the soil, so the strawberries ar not on the dirt

NadjSun, 06/07/2015 - 00:58

What they said about the pine needles, straw and black plastic is what you put over the soil to keep the berries out of the dirt. You use those items like a mulch and it serves a dual purpose. She could also use the black fabric as well. Keeps the weeds down, soil warm and the berries will have a nice barrier between them and the soil.

The EditorsWed, 05/27/2015 - 10:29

Hi Kristin,

Straw, pine needles or black plastic work well as mulch around strawberries. It will keep the berries clean, control weeds and keep the soil moist.

Cover the berries with plastic netting to keep critters away.

WalleyshereWed, 05/27/2015 - 21:24

I just dealt with this exact thing. A few days after planting i noticed stawberries appearing but they were on the ground and under leaves. I was afraid ants may get them easier or slugs or just be flat on one side.. so i got out a wire ring i had that i think is ment for tomatoes ( round 12" ring with 3 spikes) and i pushed it over the strawberry plant down to just below the top of the branches and used it to drap the berries and branches over to help them up off the ground and hopefully train it to grow a taller plant.

Aaron StonerFri, 07/17/2015 - 23:46

When I go to orchards, I usually see raised beds of straw for their strawberries. On the other hand, a black plastic mulch that absorbs heat from the sun will take care of hiding slugs/snails if its laid out correctly.

The EditorsTue, 05/12/2015 - 09:07

Check the seed packet for information on how far apart each plant should be spaced.

The EditorsSun, 05/10/2015 - 12:49

In Zone 9 and mild climates, you don't need to mulch. Strawberries are cold hardy, for the most part, and will survive mildly freezing temperatures with little to no care. Rather than mulching in the winter, you need to mulch in the summer in hotter climates to keep the berries cool and clean.

The EditorsThu, 04/30/2015 - 11:56

Berry interesting . . .

This hill, or mound, growing system is usually used for day-neutral and everbearing strawberries. Runners are clipped (cut out) to enable the plant's energy to go to producing fruit—not establishing new plants.

A row system on flat ground, with no mound, is commonly used for June-bearing strawberries. In this case, growers tend to let runners grow at will. The quality of the fruit tends not to be as good as the other berries (above) because energy goes into producing new plants, not only fruit.

The black plastic that you observed is a form of mulch. Growers call this "plasticulture," and often drip irrigation tubing is laid under it. This method results in denser plantings and greater harvests.

The EditorsThu, 04/30/2015 - 12:13

Strawberries need full sun—that's minimum 6 per day—to thrive and produce the best yield. Anything you can do for your plants to get them into direct sunlight would be beneficial.

The EditorsMon, 04/20/2015 - 13:48

This sounds about right. Your plants were dormant for the winter, and they are—er—springing back.You did not indicate your location. Be prepared to protect your strawberry plants if a late-season frost threatens. You can check the average last-frost date for your area here: http://www.almanac.com/content/frost-chart-united-states/...

Pradeep RokadeWed, 06/24/2015 - 01:23

Hi Amrut, You can grow strawberrie in coorge area of karnataka. In India , highest cultivatio of strawberries is in Maharashtra's Panchagani -Mahabaleshwar dist. Satara. You can also get training in the subject at central Govts. Horticulture Training Centre at Talegaon - Dabhade Dist. Pune. pradeep rokade +91 22 9821096811

The EditorsThu, 04/02/2015 - 16:55

Varieties grown in northeast Kansas may not produce as well in other areas of the state. Of course, the first rule is to purchase "virus free" stock from a reputable nursery that's local so the plants don't get dried out. June-bearing varieties are usually the most productive varieties in home gardens and they are perennials. You could plant more than two varieties - an early, a mid, and a late season variety - to insure ripe fruits over a longer harvest period. According to your cooperative extension, recommended varieties for Kansas are: Allstar, Earliglow, Guardian, Northeaster, Ogallala, Ozark Beauty, Primetime, Redchief, Tribute, Tristar. We'd suggest you speak to a local nursery about the best varieties for your area.

Devil HunterMon, 04/27/2015 - 09:05

TELL ME IF AND HOW MY STRAWBERRIES WILL GROW

YoeSun, 05/03/2015 - 10:34

Doesn't sound like your strawberries are going to grow based on your previous comments. Stick to houseplants or herbs if you don't have full sunlight.

StaciTue, 05/26/2015 - 18:12

Kim- I've come across your post by chance today. I live on Fort Leavenworth, KS ...so not far from you at all. I have had significant luck with my patches..I started with 2 plants 3+ yrs ago in 3ft×3ft plot on the side of my house(facing afternoon sun). Due to it being military housing I opted to raise it and use gardening soil (not knowing the history of the home ..honestly, not knowing if /when/how many dogs utilized the "soil") . I occassonally use a plant feed but other than that they have spread like crazy- about 10ft x 10ft now and produce like clock work. Maybe I got lucky, I have heard a lot of negatives with KS and strawberries but thought I'd share my thoughts since I'm so close. So...good luck!!

The EditorsThu, 04/02/2015 - 07:23

Plant strawberries in late spring. They're fine as long as the temperature does not go above 61°F or this will inhibit flowering.

Shelby JonesTue, 05/12/2015 - 08:39

I live in Connecticut. This is my first garden. I got a small baby plant from lowes and am pot growing my strawberries due to messy issues in the backyard. My strawberry plant itself is all nice and green. But this spring is a hot one. And a humid one. I'm getting my first flower. And as of the looks this morning five more are coming. They are beautiful but I've read to eliminate the flowers causes them to focus production on strawberries and roots. And now you've mentioned temperatures higher temperatures cause flowering as well. Do you recommend eliminating the flowers or let the them? Will the humidity affect growth?

Shelby JonesTue, 05/12/2015 - 08:41

Mind my mistakes I'm on my phone Or let the flowers grow *

The EditorsFri, 05/15/2015 - 10:50

If you plan on keeping your strawberry plants overwinter, we'd recommend removing the first year's flowers so that the new plant can focus on growing roots and establishing itself. If, however, you do not plan on keeping the plant past this growing season, keep the flowers so that you will have fruit later in the season. If you plan to overwinter them, but would like a harvest this year, you could try allowing just a few flowers to form and develop fruit, while removing the rest.

Some humidity is good for the plants; too much, and too much heat, will encourage disease and cultural problems.

The EditorsMon, 02/23/2015 - 11:45

The blue strawberries have been a hoax for some time. People have tried to grow the seeds but the plants that germinate are often not even strawberries. You can try to grow them or get some new seeds from a reputable mail-order company. Plant the seeds in a container or seed tray with soilless potting mix. Keep the soil moist until the seeds germinate. When the seedlings are big enough you can plant them in bigger containers or in the garden. The plants may not fruit the first year.

The EditorsMon, 02/23/2015 - 11:25

Your plants should be doing well this year and you should be getting more berries. Remove the leaves when temperatures have warmed up. Depending on the variety you have blossoms should appear in late May early June.

The EditorsWed, 12/24/2014 - 09:28

You need to grow varieties that are heat tolerant and you will have best luck growing strawberries as annuals and not perennials. Please see the pdf below for advice and suggested varieties. http://polkhort.ifas.ufl.edu/documents/publications/Straw...

RaghavMon, 01/05/2015 - 12:07

Can you actually grow strawberries at home? Pls do reply...

The EditorsFri, 12/12/2014 - 16:16

Bloom time varies depending on the weather conditions, how much daylight you have, and the variety of strawberries you are growing. Strawberries are in general ready for harvest 30 days after the flowers open.

The EditorsTue, 11/11/2014 - 09:34

Hi Jillian,

Cut off any dead leaves and cut the runners before storing the container in the garage. Cover with a blanket or a towel and water the container about once a month during the winter so that the roots don't dry up.

The EditorsThu, 10/30/2014 - 10:40

Hi Eric, We're not sure where you live but strawberries are usually planted in the late spring. For a raised bed, we'd suggest 8 inches high. Mix organic matter (manure is a good source--or, compost, leaves, peat moss, etc.) sand, and fertilizer (1 pound of 10-10-20 per 100 sq. feet). If you're using manure to improve soil structure, decrease the fertilizer by half.

LelaTue, 03/10/2015 - 19:47

Thanks for the advice. This should help as we are coming in to spring here in Mississippi. I have some seeds and some roots. I'm going to try to plant some vertical and some in the rased bed.

The EditorsFri, 10/24/2014 - 10:12

Hi Vane,It depends on a soil test but the standard recommendation is: Apply 60 pounds nitrogen (N) per acre, 60 pounds phosphate (P2O5) per acre and 120 pounds potassium (K2O) per acre. Broadcast these fertilizers and lightly incorporate before bedding and fumigation.

KassidyFri, 10/24/2014 - 10:53

what time is the growing season

KassidyFri, 10/24/2014 - 10:52

i have that same ? how much does it need

MindysSun, 10/12/2014 - 20:24

I live in Wisconsin too and have the same question. I planted my strawberries this year and read that I shouldn't let them fruit in year one, so I cut off all flowers and have also cut off all runners. I also read that I shouldn't mow off the year one plants after the fruit is harvested (which I didn't harvest any). So now I can't find anything that tells me when I SHOULD cut back all the green and mulch them. I also planted June bearing and ever bearing so I'm not sure if I should cut back both types.

The EditorsWed, 10/15/2014 - 09:58

You can still cut back the tops of the strawberries above the crowns. Then add some fertilizer, high in nitrogen, and mulch with straw or something similar to protect the plants during the cold winter months.

The EditorsFri, 10/03/2014 - 14:03

The easiest way to overwinter containers is in an unheated garage or shed. Cover the pots with towels or other fabric to help protect the plants and maintain dormancy. Water the plants about once a month being careful not to overwater them. You can also sink the pots into a garden. No need to water them if they are outside.

The EditorsWed, 10/01/2014 - 11:42

It's recommended to cut or mow down June bearing strawberry plants after the last harvest. This will encourage more blooms and berries the next season. We are not familiar with covering the plants with a weed mat. We have always used straw or pine needles with good luck.

Dennis A.Thu, 10/09/2014 - 21:08

Wow, thanks a lot, I was not really expecting a reply from you considering the volume of inquiries you receive daily! Again, thank you. A follow up question/clarification- would it be alright then to just leave the stems and leaves and cover them directly with straw/pine needles regardless of variety? I can no longer track down which are June-bearing and ever-bearing (I think there's a 3rd variety I planted), so I'll just cover them with straw/pine neddles? About half of my strawberry plants are on pots- will covering them with straw-pine needles do the job? Or do I need to put something extra (someone suggested bubble wraps, others some damp clothes/blankets) to cover and protect them from the cold?

The EditorsFri, 10/10/2014 - 11:41

There are different options for the containers. You can gather the pots together and put them close to a wall, out of the wind, and then cover them with mulch, leaves, straw or pine needles. You can put the pots inside bigger containers and stuff leaves and mulch in the empty space between the pots. You can sink the pots into the ground and add mulch over them. Or you can put the containers in an unheated garage or shed with a blanket over them. If you do this remember to water a few times during the winter as they don't get any natural moisture from rain or snow.

Good luck!

Dennis A.Fri, 10/24/2014 - 17:10

awesome! thanks a lot.

The EditorsFri, 08/22/2014 - 11:29

Hi, Adele, Any time someone says that they "Keep watering," we become concerned. You may be watering too much. Even well-draining soil needs a pause, a brief dry time. Just as important, make sure the soil has slightly acidic pH (5.5 to 6.5) and provide 10-5-10 fertilizer once in a while. And, yes, remove the runners.

That said, apparently the best strawberry season in Florida is not summer but fall and spring. (Summer is probably typically too hot.) That, according to numerous Florida university gardening pages. Here are two:

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/HS/HS40300.pdf

http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/giam/plants_and_gr...

We hope this helps.

The EditorsFri, 08/08/2014 - 10:36

Traditionally, planting systems are matted row (June-bearing) or hill (everbearing/day-neutral). With raised beds and black plastic, the spacing can be different. You can search on the Web for the terms "plasticulture" and "strawberries" for more information about growing strawberries in raised beds.

About plasticulture:

http://extension.psu.edu/business/ag-alternatives/horticu...

http://extension.psu.edu/plants/gardening/fphg/strawberri...

http://extension.udel.edu/weeklycropupdate/?p=6300

Traditional spacing:

June-bearing strawberries: Usually planted in a matted row system. Plant about 18 to 24 inches apart in rows 3 to 4 feet apart. Runners are allowed to grow freely and form a thick mass of plants about 2 feet wide.

Everbearing: Usually planted in a hill system. Often planted 1 foot apart in 2 or 3 rows that are about 1 foot apart. Usually, a 2-foot-wide path is provided every 2 or 3 rows. Runners are removed.

For more information about growing strawberries, you might be interested in:

http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/selecting_strawberry_varieti...

http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/yard-garden/fruit/str...

http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/publication/H...

http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07000.pdf

The EditorsWed, 07/23/2014 - 12:01

Hi, Bob: Uh, no. Dry = dead. But if you keep the rootballs in a moist (but not too moist, as that will bring rot) medium (say, topsoil and sand) in a cool setting (say, cellar), you should be able to bring the plants out of dormancy once again.

The EditorsTue, 07/22/2014 - 12:30

This could be related to water: Strawberries should be watered with a drip system. Root rot—what this sounds like—is caused by overhead watering. A lab test through your local cooperative extensivenight reveal the exact problem.

Then again, pale leaves could indicate that your soil's pH is too high for the plants. The desirable range for strawberries is a slightly acidic 5.5 to 6.5. A simple soil test can reveal the soil's pH.

The EditorsThu, 07/17/2014 - 07:57

It's probably slugs. You won't see them. Go out late and night with a flashlight and you'll find these nocturnal pests. See our Pests library for tips: http://www.almanac.com/topics/gardening/pests-and-problems

KkerstensSun, 07/13/2014 - 21:47

I personally would not give up on them if the plants are good. It could be that you did not have enough water when the flowers were blooming and the berries were forming. Just care for them and over winter with pine straw (It really is the best). i am certain you will see a better crop next season. I have had a similar issue before, and they were fine for the next year's crop.

The EditorsFri, 06/20/2014 - 10:16

For traditional strawberries, early spring really is the best time to plant strawberry plants as long as soil is not too wet. Late-season varieties ripen in late May to mid-June.

The EditorsThu, 06/05/2014 - 12:12

Planting your strawberries in tires is a terrific idea! Use 3 parts soil to 1 part compost.

The EditorsMon, 06/02/2014 - 11:35

Strawberries have shallow roots so 6 inches should be fine. Make sure that your beds drain well and water when the soil feels dry. Strawberries require full sun for optimum fruit production so the location of your beds is perfect. Hopefully with warmer days your plants will perk up.

The EditorsMon, 06/02/2014 - 11:26

Please see our planting and care advice at the top of this page. You can also read more about growing strawberries in Oklahoma at http://pods.dasnr.okstate.edu/docushare/dsweb/Get/Documen...

The EditorsWed, 05/21/2014 - 11:02

Hi Mary,

Strawberries are a perishable food and can't be shipped via regular mail. You need to use UPS or Fed Ex.

Pick the strawberries before they are fully ripe and pack them carefully in an insulated cooler (Styrofoam type) or a cooler bag. Add packs of dry ice and seal the cooler before putting it in a bigger cardboard box. Ship it 2-day delivery or overnight.

The EditorsWed, 05/21/2014 - 11:05

Hi Ray,

Leave the flowers on the plants and make sure to water well as the berries grow. You should have a nice size harvest.

The EditorsMon, 05/12/2014 - 16:32

Hi Lynn,

You can just sprinkle diatomaceous earth around your plants. Or, spread cedar chip mulch around the plants to repel the ants.

MemadaoneFri, 05/30/2014 - 08:46

If you put grits or rice on the ant mound it will kill the colony. Best to apply this method 12pm-2pm that's when they gather food. They carry the rice or grits back to the queen when they eat it they die. Good luck

The EditorsTue, 05/06/2014 - 08:50

For strawberries, which are shallow-rooting, a bed should be 12 to 18 inches deep. You are fine. Before planting, till the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches.

The EditorsTue, 04/29/2014 - 12:09

Greetings. It would help us all to understand which gardening zone you're in. Check out this page and let us know:
http://www.almanac.com/content/plant-hardiness-zones

JinSat, 05/03/2014 - 23:20

I am from the maldives. I don't really know what garden zone. But we have 2 hot seasons. Like rainy and sunny. And all we have is sand. No rocks. Also we do have methods to fertilize the ground.

The EditorsTue, 04/29/2014 - 07:19

Day-neutral strawberry varieties such as 'Evie,' 'Albion,' and 'Seascape' are well-suited to hanging baskets.

The EditorsWed, 04/23/2014 - 13:15

Risk of poisoning is slim but the zinc and cadmium are harmful to humans. So, wash out the tub with soap and water and then line the container with durable plastic liner, such as the type used to line ponds. Cover sides and bottom of tub. Also, make sure you add drainage holes in the tub and also holes the size of nails in the plastic liner as strawberries can't get wet feet.

The EditorsWed, 04/09/2014 - 12:22

How exiting to have a strawberry surprise!

Strawberries do grow in your zone, however, growth slows if the temperature isn't in between 50 and 80 degrees (F), so we wouldn't expect growth into the summer.

Strawberries to like a sandy texture that drains well and is high in organic matter. So you should just mix in some compost to give them the nutrients they need to grow bigger.

Yearly fertilization should not occur until after spring crop has been harvested. Afterwards, apply 10-10-10 fertilizer at 1 ½ pounds per 100 sq. feet.

Strawberries need lots of water so it's great they're in a place conveniently located near water. You can also run a soaker hose running through them at low pressure.

Periodically, you need to renovate a strawberry garden to thin out older crowds and reduce runner density. Contact your local cooperative extension for more information!

Cathy WSat, 04/19/2014 - 09:37

Thank you for all the information! We have an extension service with the university here and I will be contacting them! I haven't been able to find a 10 10 10 fertilizer, only 14 14 14..maybe at a nursery instead of the local box store! thank you again!

Pogo333Wed, 05/14/2014 - 07:38

You can use 14-14-14 fertilizer. Just reduce the amount applied from the suggested 1.5 pounds for 10-10-10 to a hair over a pound for the 14-14-14. The numbers refer to the percentage of nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium in the fertilizer blend. As long as the ratios of the three are correct (in this case 1:1:1), you can adjust the amount applied to achieve your target.

ShobhanaSun, 04/13/2014 - 04:10

I have just got a small plant of strawberry. I have planted in a rectangular wooden box especially for my plant. It is growing quite well but I am confused whaat is the way forward

The EditorsMon, 03/31/2014 - 16:53

Strawberries don't climb and their runners need to touch soil to produce new plants. There are some varieties that grow well in hanging baskets or pyramids.

The EditorsMon, 03/31/2014 - 16:48

Yes you can plant two different varieties. We suggest that you plant one june-bearing variety and one ever-bearing. This way you'll be harvesting strawberries for a longer time.

The EditorsWed, 03/26/2014 - 11:21

Loran strawberries are hardy and it's best to plant the strawberries in the container as soon as possible. The plants need to be well-established before the temperatures get too warm.

The EditorsThu, 03/20/2014 - 13:23

If you have compost in your raised beds additional fertilizers are unnecessary.

The EditorsTue, 03/18/2014 - 15:04

Not enough sun or too much or too little water may be the problem. Depending on the variety of strawberries you have the flowers may not get pollinated. But most strawberries are self-pollinating so you don't need a second variety for pollination.

For more help contact your local cooperative extension.

http://ucanr.edu/

The EditorsFri, 03/14/2014 - 08:55

Hi Andrew, We should clarify. Strawberries are productive for 3 or 4 years, however, you do need to maintain the patch to keep it productive. Right after harvest, you want to mow the old foliage down, cutting off the leaves about 1 inch above the crowns. Compost the leaves. Fertilize the patch with one pound of a 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet. Narrow the rows to 6 to 12 inches wide with a hoe or spade. Remove all weeds. Thin the plants in the narrowed row to 4 to 6 inches between plants. Water with 1 inch of water per week to promote growth and to make new runners for next year's crop.

The EditorsFri, 03/14/2014 - 08:56

Early spring is the best time to plant strawberry plants as long as soil is not too wet.

The EditorsTue, 02/25/2014 - 14:23

Hi Sylvia,

It's not wise to cover the strawberries with 2 feet of soil. Dig them up and replant them after you have built your raised bed. Do this as soon as you can in the spring.

The EditorsTue, 02/25/2014 - 14:33

Sounds like a good idea. Strawberries have shallow roots and grow well with other plants. You may get a bit less yeild due to some of the shade from the grapes when they grow bigger. The strawberries will also keep the weeds down around the grapes.

The EditorsMon, 02/17/2014 - 17:24

Give it away. Strawberries need a full-sun location with at least 8 hours of direct sunlight.

Rajat BhantiThu, 02/06/2014 - 20:24

During Winter season (December - January) temperature is usually between 39 - 77 degree fahrenheit.

Driftless WindsMon, 02/17/2014 - 21:46

I think you can buy warm weather varieties like Camarosa. Those should work during your late fall-winter months - say from October - early Feb. Remember soil needs to be well drained so I would think a raised bed would be particularly good in India given the monsoon.

Rajat BhantiTue, 02/18/2014 - 17:25

Thanks

The EditorsFri, 01/10/2014 - 14:15

Sounds wonderful! Look for hardy varieties that will tolerate your cold winters. There are many to choose from. Make sure the plants have plenty of room to grow into and also be aware of the different soil requirements. Blueberries for example need acid soil.

The EditorsFri, 01/10/2014 - 14:28

Pinching off the blossoms will promote root growth and healthier and stronger plants for next year. You can leave some flowers if you like but the plants may not grow as big.

Enjoy your strawberry garden!

The EditorsMon, 10/14/2013 - 15:40

When planting by the Moon, this is our philosophy: Above-ground crops are planted during the light of the Moon (new to full); below-ground crops are planted during the dark of the Moon (from the day after it is full to the day before it is new again). Strawberries bear their fruit above ground.

The EditorsMon, 10/14/2013 - 15:38

From Zone 6 northward, strawberries are best planted in spring as they need to be well-rooted by the following winter. Most of western MA is zone 5: http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/#

From Zone 7 southward, strawberries are often planted in fall and grown as annuals that can be lifted every fall and replanted.

If you have the plants, you could always give it a try. Use lots of mulch for winter protection.

The EditorsSat, 10/05/2013 - 02:29

Hi, John, To give advice on a variety, we'd really need to know where you live--in a northern climate, a southern climate? IN general, June-bearing strawberries, such as 'Shuksan', grow well in Zones 6-10. Check with your local extension office for the variety that grows best in your area.

The EditorsSat, 09/07/2013 - 09:19

To grow strawberries from runners. Peg down the runners during growth season, usually in June or July, keeping them attached to the mother plant. Eventually, they will form a separate plant. Don't allow more than five runners to develop from each plant. In August, when the runner plants are well established, cut them from the parent and transplant immediately.

The EditorsSat, 08/24/2013 - 04:04

For June Bearing varieties, try Annapolis or All-Star.
For Everbearing, try Seascape or Tribute.
There are many strawberry varieties that grow well on Cape Cod; visit some garden nurseries and explore.

The EditorsWed, 08/21/2013 - 17:43

We would advise planting the strawberries in a different bed. If this is your only bed, a 5-year wait should be fine. In the future, plant cover crops in the old beds and crops that are not susceptible to strawberry root weevils, such as sweet corn or pumpkins. Crop rotation is mandatory with strawberries as well. Read more about crop rotations and cover crops for strawberries here: http://www.uvm.edu/vtvegandberry/factsheets/rotateberries...
To avoid weevils, cover a new planting with row covers until the plants flower. There are also beneficial insects that eat weevils and other preventative measures you can take.

The EditorsMon, 08/05/2013 - 09:09

Transplant strawberries plants after the last spring frost, usually in early June. For June-bearing strawberries, Kent and Glooscap cultivars in hardy in your area. See more here: http://www.gov.mb.ca/ana/pdf/mafri-frcrops.pdf

The EditorsTue, 07/30/2013 - 11:25

Verticle growing works well for strawberries. We've read about a gardener who plants fall bearing strawberries in Styrofoam containers stacked one on top of another, supported by a metal pole. The weight of the berries cause them to naturally droop and hang down, but in the vertical growing system they don’t touch the ground as they might in the field. The berries are clean and easy to see and you don’t have to bend over to pick them so it's easier picking, too!

The EditorsSun, 07/28/2013 - 17:52

When you set your plant into the ground, the soil is just covering the tops of the roots. Do not cover the crown.

The EditorsFri, 07/12/2013 - 09:23

There are several reasons why your transplanted strawberries may not be fruiting. Did you plant so that the crown is properly exposed after the soil is closed around the transplants? Plants do not fare well if placed too deep and grow poorly if placed too shallow. Also, frequent irrigation is critical during the first 4 weeks after planting. Adding organic amendments such as composted horse is a great idea, however, it must be sufficiently composted -- when it looks and smells like soil. See our manure guide: http://www.almanac.com/content/manure-guide

Mary TennesseeFri, 07/12/2013 - 13:26

does all this mean that next year i will have berrie? or will NOT?

The EditorsTue, 07/02/2013 - 12:08

We don't have a lot of experience with topsy turvy planting. The common reasons for poor fruit set are: no pollination due to weather (do you see pollinators?), bugs feeding on the flower (check for bugs), and poorly-draining soil (use sandy loam enriched with peat moss and well-rotted compost). Also, don't use too much nitrogen in your fertilizer. Fertilize in early spring before flowering and right after harvest with a 10-10-10 fertilizer. Tip: For your first harvest, pinch off the petals before they fall.

The EditorsMon, 06/24/2013 - 20:08

This sounds like "grey mold" which thrives when there are wet or humid conditions. This fungus starts on the part of the berry that is in contact with the soil; soon, the rot soon involves the entire fruit and inflects others. Unfortunately, you need to remove any infected strawberries. To control, the practice is to apply protective fungicides at bloom and continue until harvest if cool wet conditions prevail. At this point, you can try to spray and see how it goes. Ask your local cooperative extension about approved fungicides. Prevention: To promote air circulation and rapid drying, 1. space plants properly , 2. keep thinned, 3. remove dead leaves, buds, and berries quickly, 4. remove weeds and debris, and 4. avoid high-nitrogen soil.

Maddyrae2Wed, 06/26/2013 - 19:00

Thanks for the comments. Since cats were starting to "use" my soil, I placed black weed control fabric and then covered with bark. Should I not have done this? All my berries are affected. If I remove all the berries (leaves are great) will this stop it? The plants are about 1 foot apart.

The EditorsThu, 06/27/2013 - 16:25

Remove the berries and the bark. If the weed control fabric lets air through you can leave it on. It's important to improve air circulation around the plants. Prune some of the leaves if the plants are touching. Work with the plants when they are dry.

The EditorsMon, 06/10/2013 - 15:50

Perhaps it's the soil? How do you care for your strawberries? Be sure to fertilize with a 10-10-10 in early spring before flowering and right after harvest.

The EditorsFri, 06/07/2013 - 09:14

I do not believe you can purchase this prized variety in the U.S. A similar variety is ‘Mara des Bois’ -- introduced by French nurseries back in 1991. Google this variety and you'll see U.S. nurseries that sell it.

The EditorsMon, 06/03/2013 - 11:38

Do not plant strawberries where tomatoes have been grown in the past four years. Tomatoes--as well as potatoes, peppers, and eggplants--carry the root rot fungus Verticillium, which attacks strawberries.

The EditorsTue, 05/28/2013 - 14:48

To rejuvenate the strawberries leave some of the younger plants that grow from the runners and discard the mother plants. It's going to be hard to identify the variety. (You can go to farmer's markets and taste the strawberries sold to see if you can match the look and taste of your strawberries.)

The EditorsTue, 05/28/2013 - 14:10

The seeds on a strawberry are on the outside and you can carefully pick them off and dry them. Most seeds need to be put into the freezer for 3 to 4 weeks before planted. Be aware that many strawberries are hybrids and will not grow true from seed. Seeds also take a long time to germinate.

The EditorsTue, 04/09/2013 - 11:03

In Texas, strawberries are best planted in the fall but retailers seem to sell them in the spring. Just make sure that 1) the soil stays moist and well irrigated, 2) the plants are protected from any dry winds, and 3) the soil pH is not too high (6.5 to 7.0 is ideal and amend with compost or peat moss if needed). At planting and periodically, add a balanced fertilizer. In the fall/winter, after a couple frosts, go ahead and mow down the runners. Then throw super-phosphate over the patch. Next spring, spread some 10-10-10 over the area before new growth begins. If their production doesn’t improve, dig them out and replace with a new planting. In Texas, sometimes cultivated strawberries (not wild ones) are treated as annuals.

The EditorsTue, 02/12/2013 - 16:15

You might want to reconsider your strategy. Removing the flowers when they first appear in the first growing season promotes root development and thus ensures a large crop the following year. If that time has passed, you could try it in this growing season, or "renovate" the crop now. This means cutting the foliage with a mower (or perhaps scissors in your case), removing the foliage to about 1 inch above the crowns. This puts the energy of the plant back into the ground; it doesn't waste energy growing a "top." Clear away the clippings, then fertilize with 10-10-10, weed well, and water with an inch of water per week. Finally, leave the runners alone. Every resource we know if says that you want runners. Replant the beds with new plants every three or four years. We hope this helps.

Jennifer T.Wed, 05/27/2015 - 17:01

Most strawberry varieties are cold hardy. A bit of frost won't effect the outcome of the plant. So planting when the soil can first be worked is a good rule of thumb.

CarolbrimmSat, 10/02/2010 - 13:05

This season got my first Topsy Turvy for tomatoes and strawberries well what do I do for my strawberries after the season is over? How do I save my plants?

AnonymousMon, 03/25/2013 - 12:16

YOU CAN KEEP YOUR TOPSY TURVY INSIDE NEAR A WINDOW THAT RECIEVES FULL SUN MOST OF THE DAY AND A ROOM THAT IS WARM. YOU MAY JUST BE ABLE TO GROW THEM ALL YEAR LONG!

Gerch629Mon, 05/17/2010 - 17:45

eleanor buy a topsy turvy planter......you'll love it (see my comment above yours)....

CarolbrimmSat, 10/02/2010 - 13:09

This is my first season ever growing strawberries I got to freeze some so I think it is going just fine. I got a good amount of tomatoes too.

John LeonWed, 03/05/2014 - 16:48

I've used the Strawberry Topsy Turvy with great success for the past 3 years. My wife loves the fact that she can walk outside and pick strawberries for breakfast without digging through dirt. Make sure you plant your strawberries in potting medium mixed with good composted soil. After you're done planting , make sure you water, water, water everyday. I add miraclegrow for strawberries every 2 weeks. Check the soil to make sure that it hasn't run out from the watering. Top it up when necessary. In the fall, bring the Topsy-Turvy inside and hang in the cool basement and remember to water occasionally. In the spring the strawberry plants come right back.I now have 4 topsy turvys working along with the strawberry plants conventionally grown in the ground. The Topsy Turvy plants are healthier.

John LeonThu, 03/06/2014 - 09:54

One more thing I'd like to add to the Topsy Turvy set up is to make sure you pinch off the runners from the strawberry plants to get more strawberries.

Jbl55Tue, 06/01/2010 - 09:35

... are borage and thyme because they are allies. Borage helps strawberries resist insects and disease, and thyme deters worms, especially when planted as a border. Some good vegetable companions for strawberries include beans, lettuce, onions, and spinach. Do NOT plant broccoli, Brussel sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower or kohlrabi. They do not play well with strawberries.

The EditorsTue, 04/13/2010 - 09:38

I'm not sure if strawberries will grow well in a topsy turvy planter, but you can grow strawberries in a container.

Any small ever-bearing strawberry variety (like the alpine strawberry, or wild strawberry) is a good choice because you don't want the berries to get too big or heavy. When planting, start with small young plants. They are easier to fit into the plant pockets, and their root systems will quickly spread inside the container. Use a well-drained potting soil. Make sure you plant the strawberries outside after any danger of frost has passed. You also can start the plants indoors earlier if you like.

Hope this helps! Good luck.

Gerch629Mon, 05/17/2010 - 17:47

nechole84.........i have a topsy turvy as well as strawberries growing in a strawberry pot........both are producing berries with minimal effort......in fact like the topsy turvy thingy bought another so can have 2 for next year........

Summer-Fruiting / June-Bearing	Everbearing / Perpetual	Day-Neutral
Short, intense cropping period	Small flushes over longer periods	Steady production all season long
Larger berries	Medium-sized berries	Medium-sized berries
Fruits in the summer	Fruits from summer to autumn	Fruits from summer to autumn
Vigorous runner production	Fewer runners	Moderate runner production

How to Grow Strawberry Plants: The Complete Guide

Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Strawberries

Sign up for daily gardening advice and tips

About Strawberry Plants

Strawberry Plants Come in Four Types

Read Next

Planting

Preparing the Soil for Strawberries

When to Plant Strawberries

How to Plant Strawberries

Planting Strawberries in Containers

Growing

How to Grow Strawberries

Winter Care of Strawberries

How to Propagate Strawberries

Types

Harvesting

How to Harvest Strawberries

How to Store Strawberries

Gardening Products

Pests/Diseases

Pest-Beating Tips

Wit and Wisdom

Why Are Strawberries Called Strawberries?

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

More Like This

Strawberry Varieties and Growing Tips

Unusual Fruit and Fruit Trees to Grow

Edible Landscaping: Selecting the Right Plants

Dwarf and Mini Vegetables and Fruit for Containers

How to Grow Berries: Easy for Beginners

How to Grow Raspberries: A Juicy Guide to Planting, Harvesting & Pruning

Comments

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment

Reply to comment