Plant gladiolus to enjoy bold blooms and beautiful summer bouquets.
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Planting
For the best blooms, plant glads in full sun (6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day) in well-draining soil that’s moderately fertile. They will not do well in heavy, soggy soil. Mix compost (humus) into your soil to improve consistency and fertility.
When to Plant Gladiolus
- Start planting gladiolus corms in the spring once the danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed to at least 55°F (13°C). See your local frost dates here.
- From your last frost date to early summer, plant another round of corms every ten days or so. This will result in continuous blooms through early fall!
- Depending on the variety, it takes between 60 and 90 days from the time glads are planted for the corms to root, grow, and bloom.
How to Plant Gladiolus
- Ready your garden by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to about 12 to 15 inches deep. After loosening the soil, mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost or aged manure.
- To ensure large-sized blooms, plant corms that are 1¼ inch or larger in diameter.
- Set the corm in the hole about 4 inches deep with the pointed end facing up. Cover with soil and press firmly.
- Space the corms 6 to 8 inches apart.
- If you grow gladioli primarily for cut flowers, plant them in rows. It’s easier to tend the plants and to harvest the flowers.
- If planted with other flowers in borders or annual beds, plant the corms in groups of 7 or more for the best effect.
- Water the corms thoroughly at planting.
- If you’re planting tall varieties, be sure to stake them at planting time. Be careful not to damage the corms with the stakes.
Growing
How to Grow Gladiolus
- Put a 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch around your gladioli to keep your soil moist and help prevent weeds.
- If you get less than 1 inch of rain a week, water your plants regularly throughout the summer. Otherwise, water them moderately when they are growing to keep the soil moist.
- Remove the faded/dead flowers to ensure continuous blooms. Once all the flowers on a stalk are gone, cut the stalk off at about 2 to 3 inches above the soil.
- Be sure to leave the plant intact so it can mature and grow the corms for the next season.
Winter Protection for Gladiolus
- If you live in USDA Hardiness Zone 8 or warmer, put down a layer of hay or straw for winter protection. Gladiolus can remain in the ground through winter, provided a hard freeze (28°F or colder) isn’t common in your area.
- In colder regions (Zone 7 or colder), dig up gladioli corms once the foliage has faded after the first fall frost. A light frost will kill the foliage but not the rest of the plant. Be sure to dig up the gladiolus corms before a hard freeze (28°F), or the plants could be fatally damaged.
- All that said, many gardeners who live in the “border” Zones 6 and 7 have tried leaving them glads in the ground and found that they survived; this is a judgment call based on your microclimate, your variety of gladiolus, and climate shifts.
Digging Up and Storing Gladioli Corms
To dig up the gladioli corms for winter storage, follow these tips:
- Use a spade and dig up the entire plant, grasping the top to pull it out of the soil. Avoid bruising or injuring corms while digging. Shake off all loose soil (do not wash them off) and discard damaged corms. Cut the stalk down to 1 to 2 inches above the corm. Save the small cormels separately if you so desire. These will bloom in 2 to 3 years if you replant them each spring.
- Allow the corms to dry in the sun for 1 or 2 days if the weather agrees. Sift out excess soil and place corms in wooden flats or trays. Cure in a warm and airy location for 2 to 3 weeks. Remove and throw away the oldest bottom corms (from the base of the new ones).
- Don’t remove the husks on the corms.
- Dust the corms with a fungicide (“bulb dust”) to avoid disease problems. Place dust and bulbs in a paper bag and shake vigorously.
- Store the corms in paper or cloth bags, pantyhose, or old onion sacks. Stack or hang the containers so air can move among them. Store the corms at 35° to 45°F (2° to 7°C) in low humidity. A cool basement is quite suitable. Do not allow corms to freeze.
- Replant these corms in the spring for another year of beautiful blooms.
Learn more tips for storing gladiolus through the winter.
Types
Gladioli come in a variety of sizes and colors, with the most popular being part of the following hybrid groups:
- Grandiflora Hybrids: These are the classic gladioli that produce a plentiful amount of large (5- to 6-inch) blooms in a range of colors. The plants produce flower stalks that reach up to 4 feet in height and are winter hardy to Zone 7.
- Dwarf Grandiflora Hybrids: These miniature glads are an excellent choice for containers and cutting gardens, as their flowers are about half the size of Grandifloras, and their shorter stalks don’t typically require staking. They are also winter hardy to Zone 7. Glamini gladioli are included in this group; they are pest-resistant and will bloom in full sun or partial shade.
- Nanus Hybrids: Hardy to Zone 5, these smaller gladioli look a lot like Grandifloras, but do not produce as many flowers. They tend to grow no larger than about 2 feet in height, which makes them perfect for containers or small spaces.
Some specific gladiolus varieties of note include:
- ‘Black Star’ has deep purple-red blooms
- ‘Candyman’ for its beautiful, deep pink flowers
- ‘Costa’ sports ruffled flowers in blue-purple
- ‘Dream’s End’ makes a good background plant because its flower spike is up to 3 feet tall (and it has pretty light orange flowers with large yellow centers)
- ‘Fun Time’ has yellow flowers edged with red
- ‘Green Time’ for its unusual lime-green flowers
- ‘Prins Claus’ has white flowers with splashes of pink on its petals
- ‘Priscilla’ produces off-white flowers with a yellow center and a pink edge
Harvesting
To cut glads for bouquets, follow these tips:
- Cut the flower stalks early in the morning or at night, not during the heat of the day.
- Use a sharp knife and bring a bucket of lukewarm water to the flower bed; cut diagonally through the stalks and place in the bucket.
- Cut stalks with only one or two open flowers. The rest of the buds will open after you put them in a vase. Leave at least four leaves on the plant in the ground if you want to reuse the corms.
- Place the bucket with the flowers in a cool dark place for a few hours before arranging them in a vase.
- Remove lower fading flowers and cut about 1 inch off the bottom of each flower stalk every few days.
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We're not sure what material you are considering as a greenhouse sheet. Ideally, a breathable fabric is best, such as burlap, bedsheets, row covers, newspapers, a light blanket, etc.; remove the fabric during the day when temperatures warm up enough (most fabrics don't allow enough light in, so you'll need to remove them during daytime.)
You can use clear, flexible plastic, but it will encourage condensation inside, which might freeze during the night, and any plant part that is touching it (use stakes etc. to prop up the plastic so that it doesn't touch the plants); you must remember to remove it during the day or temperatures inside can get too hot for the plant. The same goes for a cold frame or similar--open it periodically during the day to allow air circulation and condensation to escape.
Frost protection is needed for an unexpected late spring frost, or an unexpected early fall frost. However, if you live in USDA hardiness plant zones 6 and colder, you should dig up the corms in fall for winter storage; gardeners in Zones 7 or warmer can instead cover the area with a thick layer of straw or similar to provide winter protection, leaving the corms in the soil over winter.
Hmm. There are insects, such as thrips, or diseases that can cause deformed flowers, but usually there are symptoms on the leaves as well. Do you think it might be a nutrient deficiency, such as calcium? For more information, you might be interested in this report:
http://ufdc.ufl.edu/UF00067646/00001/5j
It says that a calcium deficiency, which doesn't often show up in leaves unless severe, can affect the flowers, and in certain cases, the petals may curve in, and there might be water-soaked spots on them. The flower spikes may look twisted and, if used as a cut flower in a vase, may fall over once all flowers on the spike are in bloom. If you think this is the case, you might try adding a little ground limestone to the soil.
Although there are several reasons for browning flowers (including pests and diseases), if the edges are brittle, not mushy, then our best guess is that it is likely heat damage--especially if the leaves are showing similar symptoms. (Symptoms of heat stress can appear in several ways, depending on the plant, growth stage, and circumstance.) In high heat, water more than the average 1 inch per week. Mulch will help keep the soil moist. You might provide a temporary screen to filter out some direct sun during excessive heat. Some varieties of glads are more heat tolerant than others.
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