How to Grow Peas: Complete Guide to Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Peas

I would like also to know can I use left over peas to plant next year.

According to the scientific definition of fruit, peas are indeed a fruit, since they are the seed-bearing structure that develops from the pea flower. However, in common language and in gardening, we usually follow the culinary definition of fruits and vegetables, which is that vegetables are savory and fruits are sweet. Of course, this is not always true—just eat a sugar snap pea—but this is the way that most vegetables and fruit are organized. This is why tomatoes, cucumbers, and pumpkins are also called vegetables despite technically being fruits!

So, long story short: Peas are both fruits and vegetables, depending on which definitions you follow!

True. Or, more specifically, pea pods are fruits and peas are seeds. The tendril tips are a vegetable though, and, an edible specialty.

It's hard to say exactly because it is somewhat weather dependent. Peas stop when temps get warm, especially when temps reach the 80s. Keep an eye on conditions and pick often to keep the plants producing for as long as possible but realize that you might sacrifice a few pods if an early hot spell rolls in.

I grew peas for the first time last year, and based off that experience, I would say it depends on the weather. The peas I planted in the early spring ended up maturing right when the package said they would (65-70 days). However, by that point it was getting pretty hot (late spring was above seasonal) and they looked like they were about to die after a week of production. But then we got a surprise of unusually cool weather in July and they sprung back to life and gave us a small second crop. So it could be a week, it could be a month, depending on what the weather is like when they're mature. If day-time temperatures are regularly in the mid-high 80s, I would not expect them to remain productive. The ideal day-time temps would be around 65-80F. You don't need to tear out your peas, since the root nodules will have nitrogen fixing bacteria nodules attached to them, so it's good to leave the roots in the ground. I personally just direct sowed some summer crops among the peas while they were still alive. The peas died when the summer crops started growing their first true leaves, and that's when I cut the peas down.

You have certainly got a system that works. As it happens, the matter of space between peas when sowing can vary, depending on whom you ask. We suggest "about" 2 inches. Cornell University (an .edu that we consult often) suggests 1 to 4 inches apart. Other edu's fall more in the 1 to 2 inch range. In local gardens, we've seen (and done) it with 2 inches and less. Sometimes when too close, we've seen some sprouts fail to thrive. Of course, lots more is at play here, including soil (we've heard the lobstah compost is terrific), sun, and water, among the considerations. Thanks for sharing your experience.

Jim Crockett was a little before my time, but my Dad watched him and he gave me Jim's book a few years ago. I love that part of the book because he does essentially say he's been planting peas like that since he was a little boy. I follow his rule, the more seeds the merrier. I dig my 4" wide trench and just scatter them in there. I always have a great crop and it's a lot easier on the back and the rest of the body. He also mentions using sticks for pea brush. Love Jim Crockett. I wish I could find copies of his old show somewhere.

That depends on a lot of factors, including the age of your plant (Are they seedlings or fully grown?), the weather (Has it been rainy or dry recently? Sunny or cloudy?), and your garden (Does the soil drain well or does it hold onto water?). Read our article on https://www.almanac.com/content/when-water-your-vegetable...">watering your vegetable garden for more information!

Peas require one inch of water per week which they generally receive with spring rains. If your area is dry, this regimen will be the easiest and best guide to follow. One can over water, but about an inch per week once pods set and flowers start to appear is reliable.

It might be that you harvested them too late. For snap peas, you don't want the peas inside to develop quite so large as garden (English) peas, or the pods sometimes get tough. Some gardeners like to harvest them when the peas are about 1/2 mature size.

Pea leaves can turn yellow for several reasons. Most likely, however, it is the stress of establishing themselves in hot weather (they like cool). You might provide a little partial shade, such as shade cloth, during the hottest time of day to help them recover, and make sure they have a proper amount of water. Also check for any pests, such as aphids, that might be attacking.

Could an animal, such as a mouse or vole, be eating the sown seeds? Sometimes they are known to eat pea seeds and others in the garden. To control, here are some suggestions:
http://www.almanac.com/pest/mice
http://www.almanac.com/pest/voles
Birds and squirrels may also be a problem.
Make sure that the seeds are planted at the correct depth and optimum conditions are provided. Also check to make sure that the soil is not too cold; if planted too early, beans, for example, will not germinate well. They like soil temperature at least 60F, and on up to about 85F. Peas like it around 75F, but can germinate at between 40 and 85F; at less optimum temperatures, they'll germinate more slowly.
Hope this helps!

Our best recommendation is chicken wire fencing. It may be too late for the peas, but it's not too late to secure your later crops (greens? lettuce?). Dogs, cats, red/black pepper, garlic powder, even human hair are suggested many times, but the fence may be the most effective.

Peas do not need—or usually want—"good" soil, which is to say the kind of soil that so many other plants love—composted soil. Peas perform best with little attention. The coffee grounds, especially such a quantity may have upset the balance of your soil, adding nitrogen which encourages leaf/foliage growth. Sounds like a little too much of a good thing. In future, compost the coffee grounds and use the results on other plants.

Hmm. 102F is lukewarm water. I'm not sure if the seeds will be happy, but if they were not in the warm water for long, some may still sprout. However, I think you might get reduced germination rates. Peas do not germinate well above 85F soil temperature. Being exposed to overly warm temperatures may also cause other physiological changes. For the sake of a science experiment, it might be better to start over. You could still test these as well, too, to compare (might be an interesting experiment in itself). Good luck!

Although peas don't like their roots disturbed, and therefore usually are planted directly in the garden, gardeners have had success growing them indoors and then transplanting out when weather is more cooperative. To do this, there are several methods, one of the most common being starting the seeds in peat pots which can then be transplanted, pot and all, into the garden; the pot will disintegrate over time, which lessens the disturbance to plant roots. Another method is described here:
http://www.almanac.com/video/get-growing-early-peas

How big a pot you'll need and when you'll need to transplant will depend on the variety of pea, the size of the current pot, and whether you plan to grow your peas outside or if they will be completely container-grown. In general, bush peas can grow about 18 or so inches high. There are also those that grow up to about 24 or 30 inches. Pole types can grow 4 to 6 feet, or more, and will need support. You can transplant peas into the garden any time after they are 4 inches tall; or about 4 to 6 weeks after starting seeds. Place in the garden no earlier than 4 weeks before the last expected spring frost.

I'm not sure if an inoculant would help the seed to sprout; it's my guess that it is more to help the plant once it forms roots (which is where the nitrogen-fixing bacteria make their home). However, soaking and warmth often can encourage older seeds that are still viable to sprout. You might try soaking the seeds overnight in warm (not hot) water, and then planting in warm soil. Beans especially like soil temps around 80 to 85F. Peas like soil temps around 75F. Good luck!

"The Old Farmer's Almanac" is the author. This article is constantly updated so you could use the current year as the retrieval date. This is a Web site so you wouldn't follow the traditional reference style.  Use the article title in double quotes, and then add the URL (link) of this page. 

The best time to plant depends on your location. Go to our https://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-calendar">planting calendar and enter your location to find the best months for you for snap peas and green beans.

Hi, Eva, I have every question you asked here too!....When to pull up? Should I leave them? Why the new growth? And one question now to add...did you get an answer? Cheers Annie

Peas like cool temperatures. When sown in the heat of summer, the plants will take longer to mature, and sometimes you won't get as good a yield. Yet, some gardeners have had success. Check the days to maturity for the variety that you'd like to grow, and add about 1 to 2 weeks to that amount of days; count that amount backward from your first expected fall frost. Choose varieties that are resistant to powdery mildew, as that can be more of a problem with later crops. Keep the plants out of direct blazing summer sun, by providing shade cloth or similar. Add compost and mulch to retain moisture. Good luck!

If the varieties that you have planted are similar (same color, height, habit), then try bending a pod on each: snap pea pods are crisp and snap when bent, while snow pea pods are more flexible and not easily snapped. The snow pea pod may also be a bit more translucent.

If you plan to save seed from your spring crop of (open-pollinated) peas, you can leave the peas on the plant until they dry and rattle in the pod, then harvest (before pods open). Set the pods out on a tray indoors to dry 2 more weeks, then remove the peas from their shells, place in an envelope, label and date, place the envelope in a glass jar, along with a tiny cloth bag or tissue filled with a little powdered milk to absorb moisture, and seal tightly. Store in a cool, dry place, such as the refrigerator.

Hi, Rusty,
 Certainly if a freeze is expected, cover the peas. If temps stay below freezing for very long (hard to say exexactly what that means, but more than a passing overnight), you might lose the plants. Similarly, the plants can take a little snow . . . but clear it off and away from them as soon as you can. Overall, think of this as an experiment and take what you get. Remember, too, that we here in New Hampshire are envious of your even trying to grow this time of year.

It's recommended to plant the peas about 70 to 90 days before your average earliest hard-frost date depending on variety. Your average first fall frost date is around Nov. 5.

Hi Ruth, In your area, peas are not common but they can be planted in mid-January through mid-February. Hope this helps.

Is it the same variety as last year? Check the seed package for days to maturity. That said, weather can cause delay in blooms. If the plants are healthy you just need to be patient. When the time is right blooms develop very quickly and you may have blooms and pods in just a couple of days.

One of my neighbors at the community garden just pounds tall stakes in the ground and ties heavy twine. He attaches the vines to the twine (with twine) as they start to grow vines. I've also seen a rubber like netting tied to stakes about 5' high.

Good question. You harvest garden peas when the pods are swollen. You'll have to open a couple up to test each day!

The pods on the lower part of the plant mature earliest. Once the pods are ready, you'll harvest quickly--probably 3 harvests within 2 weeks.

You can certainly try it, but generally the soil's too warm for peas. They are a "cool-season" crop that is planted in the early spring as soon as the soil can be worked. See our Planting Table for best days to plant peas in your area: http://www.almanac.com/plantingtable">www.almanac.com/plantingtable

According to one source, Green Arrow peas in particular produce heavily at the top of the plant for easy picking. Can't explain the comment below at this time but will look into it.

About the plant's flower colors: after a quick look into Medelian genetics, we think that it's a result of pollination. It should have no effect on the peas.

You probably know that Green Arrow is an ideal soup pea. Enjoy!

yes peas need to be pollinated

I have grown Alexander peas from seed and then transplanted into the greenhouse in May. They are not touched by pollinators, including myself. They have always produced peas.

no it is not to late to stake the peas, they will heal and grow better.

No, it is not too late. Good luck!

You should be fine. Peas planted in March are ready to harvest in May.They grow most of this time and don't flower. Once they flower, it only takes about 10 days to harvest.

It's best to let the chicken manure age over the season and over winter, leaving the area to lie fallow, then use that area for planting next year. Fresh chicken manure might burn plants or carry disease. Some chicken manure in your recently vacated chicken plot might be appropriately aged, but more recent samples would not be.

The Cooperative Extension has these recommendations to reduce risk of disease: "If you must use raw manure in the garden, apply it according to the 90/120 day rule. If the manure touches the edible plant part, like watermelons, apply it at least 120 days before harvest. If edible parts are high above the soil, like corn, apply it at least 90 days before harvest."

As to peas, they do not need very much nitrogen. If they grow in high-nitrogen soil, they may produce more leaves and less pods, and may be more susceptible to frost. Heavy nitrogen feeders include cucumbers, melons, squash, corn, cole crops, greens, and onions.

Mid-April will not be too late. And as an added bonus, if you are gardening by the Moon signs, mid-April is the perfect time to plant peas.

Lucky you, Micky! Pea season will be late here in New Hampshire.

You probably did sow them too close together. And, yes, you might damage the sprouts if you pull them out (pea roots a relatively shallow).

So instead of pulling the roots, cut the seedlings' stem at ground level with scissors. Any little bit of growth, if any, that ensues is not likely to survive.

Good luck with the harvest!

Hi Linda,

We envy you. Here in NH we still have 3 feet of snow on the ground. Just keep the soil moist. Do not overwater.

Try shaking your plant a bit or poking the flowers. While peas may be a self pollinating plant, sometimes they need an extra bit of help.

Peas are not grown from seedlings because they do not transplant well.
Also, we are not sure where you live, but peas are usually best seeded in the early spring a few weeks before the last frost when it's thawed enough to dig.  Or, if you live in an area with mild winters, peas can be planted in the fall about 8 to 10 weeks before the first frost.

Hi, Clara: As you surmise, this could be any number of things, from worms to mice/rats/squirrels to deer. Assuming that you have looked for tracks from the bigger critters and found none, you might also consider other suspects: birds, such as sparrows and finches. If it's possible in your garden, identify some still good plants where you can carefully smooth the soil. Sprinkle a dusting of powder or flour and just see if any tracks show up, just to check. At the same time, set yourself up a little scarecrow and be prepared to use some hardware mesh or perhaps bird netting, as the case may be. If necessary, you need to bury your mesh or old screening at least 6 inches deep, but hopefully some anti-air-craftiness will prove simpler, cheaper, and just as effective.

Should be fine,most southern peas or Crowder,cowpeas love the hot weather in SC you'll have to keep the deer out of them,same trouble we have in Texas good luck with them

We love peas off the vine! They are so sweet we can barely get them in the house. Perhaps garden peas are the most different than supermarket peas?

First, you may have noticed that peas taste wonderfully sweet off the vine but turn to starch very quickly. You want to eat peas quite quickly. Once peas are shelled they rapidly lose their sweet flavor, and it's best to shell then pop them directly into the pan! Another option is to freeze them right away.

You would not plant this sprouted pea right in the ground. However, you can harvest peas for replanting. The trick is to grow them on the vine for a few weeks longer than you would if you were going to eat the peas. Let them dry out. When the pods are brown, remove the seeds and place in a dry, cool place until completely dry and no moistness is left. Put in a bag and save to replant in the spring!

Peas are cool-season crops. You can try planting in the fall and they'll grow when temperatures are between 60 F to 75 F. It's just that spring crops usually have a greater yield; sometimes the fall temps get surprising warm!

Hi, William: Overnight is fine, but a few days is really not necessary at this time of year ... get 'em in the ground, and they'll grow great!

The days for green peas to grow depends on the variety and the 'days to maturity' will listed on your seed packets or any online seller. However, soil temperature will also greatly influence your timing. If the is 40 degrees F., pea seeds may take more than a month to sprout, while at 60 degrees F. or above, they take about a week. 

generally about a week with the right temperature

This is a shell pea—sweet and great for freezing, too. Make sure your trellis supports a vine that can grow up to 3 feet. Harvest just before pods are completely filled. Not the easiest variety to pick, but one of the easiest to shell.

really goood i love snow peas

In the ground, duh

Peas will tolerate chilly nights but the beans need a bit warmer weather. If you have no more frosts or cold nights transplant the peas and the beans can follow in a week or two.

They may produce a few more peas. Pod set always proceeds from the bottom of the plant to the top. When only pods at the stems tips remain there will be no more peas. It's always a good idea to plant a row of peas every two weeks in the spring to have a longer harvest.

By now you probably know if the vine grew more new shoots. It depends on where the vine snaps if it is going to survive.

No probs with the straw off shoots. A pea is a pea is a pea.

Your planting time depends on where you live. In places like South Carolina, planting is often in April. Black-eyed peas are a warm-season crop requiring warm soil temperature (at least 60 °F) for the best germination and emergence.

I'm not much of a gardener yet, but without flowers you'll get no fruit, or in this case, yummy peas.

no the end isn't near . Peas will grow up to 4 feet high flowering all the way , just keep them watered.

The days of maturity for a pea plant depend on the variety chosen but it will range from 55 to 70 days from seeding to harvest.

You need to identify the pest.  Go out very late at night or very early in the morning with a flash light and look for slugs, a common culprit. if you see slugs, you can put slug pellets and crush eggshells around the base of the plant. If it's not slugs, look carefully at the plant. Are the leaves being eaten? Large holes or small holes?  Describe the damage as different pests chew plants in different ways.

We're not sure if the seeds will be viable. You should do a germination test and see how it goes.
As you've discovered, the pods should ripen on the plants until they’re dry and starting to turn brown, with the seeds rattling inside. This may be as long as a month after you would normally harvest the peas or beans to eat. You can even leave the seeds in the pods until planting time.

It sounds as if you have a fungus disease, powdery mildew. If the plants are too infected, you'll need to discard them. Don't plant peas in the same place next year. Next spring, plant peas early (in March even if there's snow as long as it's not soggy), Watch carefully for mildew (whitish color) and spray a mix of 9 parts water to 1 part powered milk to avoid this problem. Also,be sure to water peas early in the day and water at the soil line not overhead to avoiding wet leaves. Also, buy a  disease-resistant variety such as Sugar Ann.

In your zone, the traditional time to plant peas is St. Patrick's Day (even if there's snow)!  It's a springtime veggie. Wait until next year for best success. They prefer a cool, long spring.

Sounds good! Not clear what your question is.

Sure, you can still pick 'em and eat 'em, but they may not taste as good. Up to you! The earlier you pick, the more production you'll get.

Some pea varieties get tall -- we'd go with a 5- or 6-foot trellis next year. Some readers use electrical metal conduit with netting.For now, could you add some stakes or trellis material atop the fence?

They will keep producing! You want to harvest regularly to encourage more growth.

Yes, Pick your peas often (every other day) and they'll produce more!

The usual reasons for pods and seeds appearing shriveled are Stink Bugs and Pea Leafminers – These insects,like the aphids, suck the juices out of the developing pods. However, you should properly identify before treating; some stink bug species and their close relatives are beneficial insects; call the Texas AgriLife Extension Service at 854-9600 for more information.

If you already picked the peas you need to store or preserve them. Fresh peas don't keep long at room temperature. Here are your option. Find a friend who has room in her/his freezer. Borrow a dehydrator and dry the peas or can the peas. Good luck!

If anyone has an answer for this I am also having the same issue. Live in Wyoming so I have the high altitude, UV index, and dry conditions. I have been following a strict watering schedule for best results from my garden and my peas have shade first thing in the morning but full sun the remainder of the day. HELP

Phosphorous will encourage blooms. Use a fertilizer that is high in phosphorous or sprinkle bone meal around your plants.

I have grown peas with much success in containers, including an 8 inch deep hanging basket and 12 inch pot. Choose smaller varieties, such as Oregon Sugar Pod as the vines only grow to about 3 feet.

Snow peas are annuals, so they will not grow back again next year; you'll need to sow more seeds next year for a new crop. When you are through with this year's harvest, you can cut the pea plants back down to the ground and then compost the tops. Because the peas are legumes, they have nitrogen-fixing bacteria within their roots. Once a plant dies and decays, the nitrogen in the roots will return to the soil, allowing it to become available to other plants.

If you Inoculate your Pea's they will actually supply Nitrogen for your Warm Season Crops. I would prepare the area to be planted. Then Soak Pea Seeds over-night. The next Day Inoculate Pea Seeds and Plant as Packet instructions. When temperatures are at steady 70°-75° Pea will not produce anymore. Now, I usually Plant Corn right into the area as Corn is a heavy Nitrogen feeder. http://www.johnnyseeds.com/Assets/Information/InoculantsT...

For best quality, use shelling peas to dry for use in cooking; there are even varieties of shelling peas that do especially well for this purpose. The texture and taste of the snow and sugar snaps will likely suffer when dried, but, as an experiment, you can certainly dry and cook up a small batch to see how they turn out. Otherwise, perhaps you can donate your extra peas to friends or a garden club for planting next year.

Some gardeners are successful in planting a fall crop of peas, although it will depend on several factors. Peas like it cool, and planting in August/September usually means that they'll be starting out in warm weather. Select varieties that mature quickly and time your planting so that the plant will flower before a frost hits. You might provide row covers or other shading in warmer weather. As for other fall crops, you might be able to plant broccoli, kale, lettuce, Swiss chard, spinach, beets, or carrots. For other ideas for your area, you might ask a local nursery or your county's cooperative extension.

Happy to help! First, rinse the vegetable. To shell, pinch off the stem. Then, pull the string down the length of the pod to open it. Push out the peas with your thumb. Rinse off your peas! We like to steam for 2 to 3 minutes (don't overcook).

Peas are a great choice for seed saving. Just let the pods ripen on the plant until the pods turn brown and start to dry up. This often takes about 1 month after you'd normally harvest. Spread out the pods indoors and dry for 2 weeks before shelling. Or, you can dry the pods and plant whole in the ground when it comes planting time. In the meantime, store seeds in a tightly-closed glass container in a cool, dry place such as the fridge.

instead of harvesting the peas, cut then down and wait for the pea plant to dry out for about 3 days then pick them out the peas will then be ready for harvesting.

For all who wish to start planting peas, please see our Best Dates to Plant chart which is customized to your city: https://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-calendar