Planting, Growing, and Caring for Hyacinths
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Ahhh! The scent of hyacinth is intoxicating in springtime! And who can resist the tiny blue Muscari? Learn more about planting these spring-flowering bulbs as well as caring for the pretty pastel flowers after they bloom.
About Hyacinths and Grape Hyacinths
- Hyacinths (Hyacinthus): Originally a pale blue or violet flower, hyacinths now come in a rainbow of colors, including lilacs, pinks, white, cobalt blue, cream, apricot, and even a blood-red hue. Each hyacinth bulb generally produces one flower stalk that stands 8 to 10 inches tall. The hyacinth’s loose-to-dense racemes (clusters) of strongly fragrant flowers may be closely packed single or double flowers.
- Grape hyacinths (Muscari) are not directly related to true hyacinths, but also bloom in mid-spring and have the same care requirements. This tiny wonder has small clusters of bell-shaped, cobalt-blue flowers.
Note: This page will refer to both Hyacinthus and Muscari plants as “hyacinths” for simplicity’s sake!
As hyacinths are one of the first blooms, they look best at the front of a perennial garden, near the front door, along a walkway, or in mixed borders. These beauties are also a great choice for pots and planters. Hyacinths make wonderful cutting flowers, too, and look stunning in bouquets. As the flowers are famous for their fragrance, you can bring the sweet scent of spring inside!
The Victorians revered hyacinths for their sweet, lingering fragrance, and carefully massed them in low beds, planting them in rows of one color each. In general, hyacinths are said to symbolize playfulness, sport, and rashness, though their meanings are color-dependent. Learn more about the meanings of flowers.
Please note: Most hyacinths grow in Zones 3 to 9. They must have cold temperatures of 40° to 45°F (4° to 7°C) for at least 12 to 14 weeks. If temperatures in your area do not get this cold, you’ll need to pre-chill the bulbs in a refrigerator before planting them outdoors.
Warning: Hyacinth bulbs (and daffodil bulbs) contain a substance called oxalic acid, which can be irritating to bare skin. Use gloves when handling these bulbs for extended periods.
Planting
Choose a planting site that gets full sun for the largest blooms and straightest stems. The bulbs are tolerant of partial shade as well.
Grow in loosened, moderately fertile soil that drains well. Avoid planting low areas where water collects; hyacinths will rot in wet soil! Before planting, loosen the soil and work in 2 to 4 inches of compost or bonemeal for fertility.
When to Plant Hyacinths
- Like other spring-blooming bulbs, plant hyacinth bulbs in mid-to-late autumn, any time after your first fall frost and before the ground freezes.
How to Plant Hyacinths
- Plant hyacinth bulbs 4 to 5 inches deep. Space bulbs 5 to 6 inches apart (grape hyacinths can be 2 inches apart). At the northern limits of their hardiness (USDA Zone 3), plant 1 to 2 inches deeper to ensure winter hardiness.
- Dig out a larger area if you wish to plant five or more bulbs simultaneously. Hyacinths look beautiful in groupings of five to nine bulbs. Grape hyacinths also look best in masses and loose drifts.
- Set the bulb in the hole with the pointy end up.
- After planting and covering with soil, water thoroughly.
- Apply a 1- to 2-inch layer of mulch around the plants to discourage weeds and disease.
- If you are transplanting, water sparingly and then do not water again until flower buds appear the following year.
Forcing Hyacinth Bulbs Indoors
- Hyacinth bulbs may be forced into early growth for indoor display in the winter. Plant them with the tips just showing, in soil-based potting mix in containers with drainage holes.
- Keep in a dark place at temperatures above freezing but no higher than 45°F (7°C), for at least 10 weeks to allow roots to develop.
- When shoots are about 1 inch long, increase light and temperature gradually.
- Water carefully and avoid wetting the shoots or waterlogging the soil. Soil should be moist, not wet.
- After flowering, forced hyacinths may be transplanted into the garden, and they will flower again in subsequent years.
- Hyacinth orientalis ‘Blue Jacket’: One of the great blues of the flower world. These award-winning hyacinths display big columns of royal blue florets with crisp white edges.
- H. orientalis ‘City of Haarlem’: A wonderful heirloom variety that’s been popular since the late 1800s. The flowers are soft, primrose yellow, maturing to creamy white.
- H. orientalis ‘Gypsy Queen’: ‘Gypsy Queen’ is an heirloom hyacinth with salmon pink petals with peach and buttery-yellow highlights.
- H. orientalis ‘Jan Bos’: Intensely fragrant, this award-winning hyacinth has fuschia-pink florets that are tightly packed into large flowerheads.
- H. orientalis ‘Miss Saigon’: With a deep, rich purple color, this fragrant hyacinth is covered with starry, violet florets. Gorgeous!
- H. orientalis ‘Pink Pearl’: Rose-pink flower heads turn heads with their cotton-candy sweetness; ‘Pink Pearl’ is a favorite for spring containers to add a pop of color.
- Muscari armeniacum: This grape hyacinth has small and delicate cobalt-blue flowers that look gorgeous when planted en masse.
Catherine Boeckmann
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Hello , I've recently bought a home on the seacoast of NH with extensive established gardens . The previous owners planted grape hyacinth along the edge of the beds . The green grass like foliage has been about 6" tall all summer and has never died back . It's now November and I'm not sure if I should cut it down or leave it over the winter. Thanks
It’s a good idea to let all bulb foliage die back naturally. You certainly wouldn’t kill it if you did cut it but the green leaves are still photosynthesizing, which means the bulb is still being “fed.” For the healthiest bulbs possible, let nature takes its course.
I ordered hyacinth bulbs at the beginning of September and the company I ordered from just shipped them to me today. We have already had a fairly hard frost (I live in zone 3). Can I still get them in the ground or should I request a refund?
Early summer I had ordered 25 bulbs and forgot that I did. They came in the mail today. I now have the house up for sale and don't want to plant them. It is almost October and the ground will be frozen soon (I am in zone 4)What can I do with them this winter in case I am not in a new house before I can get them in the ground. They are in plastic bags with holes in the bags now.
Hi Kathy,
Take them out of the plastic bags and spread them out on a tray (you do not want to encourage moisture). Store them in a cool, dry location such as a garage or shed. Hopefully you will be able to plant them early in the spring, but if not, continue to store them in this way until you can get them in the ground.
I bought my hyacinth already potted from lowes. I waited 2 weeks and replanted them in another pot and the bfn to die off naturally. I stored the bulbs in a large plastic container in a plastic bag. I'm wondering did I do the right thing? Can I still use those bulbs or do I need to freeze them and then pot them?
Hi Teri,
You should take them out of the plastic bag and container, then spread them out on some type of shallow tray or box. Bulbs should be kept dry and cool (not cold) if you bring them in for the winter. The garage is a common storage spot.
I was on a website that indicated hyacinths will continue to bloom all summer long. Is this correct? Our company is trying to institute a bulb program where we are planting bulbs for highest and best impact and I'm not a gardner or landscaper! :) Just want to make sure I am not wasting money buying the wrong bulbs. Want to choose beautiful blooms that continue through summer bulb wise. I have looked at Hyacinths, Rannunculous, Lillies and Begonias. Thank you in advance for ANY help! We are on the East Coast, Mid Atlantic, in Virginia. Many thanks for your input!
Hi, Jenn, We are not familiar with season-long blooming hyacinths and our sources came up dry on this one, too. Most of the flowers you name have bloom periods in the summer, but are not in bloom for the entire summer. However, begonia comes close: Cornell University cites every period from late spring to early fall as their bloom time. See here: http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/homegardening/scenea018.html
Numerous Almanac.com pages identify begonias, too. Use the search tool in the yellow logo space above (on the left) and you can find the articles, addressing various contexts.
A sure-thing plant that these days offers lots of color options and is not too fussy is impatiens. (You’ve see them everywhere!) Here is some detail: http://www.almanac.com/plant/impatiens Impatiens are not bulbs; perhaps you are trying to avoid replanting annuals? We are not sure you can get all that you want—all-season bloom—in a bulb.
We hope this helps.
I was given some hyacinth potted bulbs for xmas. not the large single stem type but on longer stems. they flowered in spring and I left them in the pot to die back and dry out. they have now started shooting again. what would you suggest I do, eg water and see what happens or take out of soil to dry out. thankyou. live in north of england
