Planting, Growing, and Caring for Coneflowers
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Coneflowers, also known as echinacea, are one of America’s native wildflowers, beloved by butterflies, bees, and songbirds. Learn more about growing coneflower care—from planting to pests to deadheading.
About Perennial Coneflowers
Echinacea are tough perennials in the daisy family (Asteraceae) and hardy in Zones 3 to 9. They are native to the eastern and central United States, blooming in mid-summer and continue to flower sporadically until frost.
The genus is named after the Greek word for hedgehog, echinos, because of its cone-like center, which attracts butterflies and bees. Leave the seed heads after bloom, and you’ll also attract songbirds such as goldfinches!
Of course, this plant is good for humans, too, with many medicinal properties; today, it’s especially popular as an herbal tea to strengthen the immune system.
Do Coneflowers Spread?
This is not an aggressive plant, but it will naturally self-seed and spread, which you can encourage if you wait to cut back until late winter (or prohibit self-seeding if you deadhead the flowers right after they fade). Hybrids will not self-sow; most are sterile (they do not produce viable seeds). Hybrids aren’t of much interest to birds, either.
The Purple Coneflower
The purple coneflower (E. purpurea) is the most common and readily available. The flowers measure 2 to 4 inches in diameter and have a mounded, brown, central cone of disk flowers surrounded by long light purple rays that droop down the center cone. Up to nine naturally occurring echinacea can also be found in purple shades or yellow (E. paradoxa). They have dark green lower leaves 4 to 8 inches long.
Coneflowers are striking when planted in masses, especially as a mix of various colors. They are trouble-free once established in a traditional garden or wildflower meadow. They are commonly seen in perennial flower gardens.
Growing
- Coneflowers are drought tolerant, but new plants need water occasionally and more often if the spring season is especially dry.
- Native in-ground coneflowers seldom need fertilizer.
- To delay blooming for fall enjoyment (and compact growth), cut back stems 1 foot when plants come into bloom. For staggered bloom heights and times, cut only a few stems.
- Beneficial, wasplike soldier beetles may appear in August. They feed on insect eggs and larvae and pollinate plants. Do not harm them. Learn more about insects that help out around the garden.
- In late fall, lightly spread mulch in colder regions.
- Cut the stems back to soil level when they wither or after frost.
- Divide or transplant coneflowers in spring or fall.
Deadheading Coneflowers
Should you deadhead coneflowers? There are pros and cons. Deadheading right after a flower fades prolongs blooming and prevents reseeding. However, if you can wait until late winter, your birds—especially goldfinch — will enjoy those seedheads. Plus, coneflowers self-seed prolifically, so where you had only one, you’ll have multiple places in the garden with lovely blooms that attract butterflies and bees.
How to deadhead coneflowers? After the flowers fade, cut back stems to a leaf near a new flower bud or a set of leaves. Use sharp, sterilized shears as coneflowers are too thick to snap back the spent flower head with your fingers.
Growing Coneflowers in Pots
We tend to grow coneflowers in the ground as perennial plants, but you can certainly grow them in pots if the containers are deep enough for the plant’s taproot.
- Use 2- or 3-gallon (or larger) pots with drainage holes. Spread crushed gravel in the bottom of the pots for drainage.
- Fill the pot halfway with the potting mix. Tamp down. Plant the root ball an inch below the rim of the container, spreading out the roots. Add soil slowly until it is even with the top of the root ball, tamping down lightly. Water deeply.
- Keep pots in partial shade for 2 to 3 days, then place in full morning sun and partial afternoon shade.
- Always water deeply at the soil level, and the soil is dry to the touch. Water on leaves can cause fungal disease.
- Fertilize every couple of weeks with a water-soluble 10-10-10 product.
- Deadhead just below the base of the flower for continued bloom.
- To overwinter, prune plants to soil level when plant growth slows in fall.
- Move to a cool (40º to 50ºF) area, with low to moderate indirect light.
- Check the soil every couple of weeks and water lightly when the top 3 inches are dry.
- When new growth appears in spring, move to a brighter, warmer (60º to 70ºF) area. Moving the plant helps to prepare it for living outdoors in the spring and summer.
- Do not water leaves from above, as this can encourage fungal disease on leaves. Instead, water at the soil level. Use an insecticidal soap or neem oil solution spray if you see any aphids or pests.
- Every 3 to 4 years, in spring, after new growth has started, divide and repot echinacea plants.
These are native, unless noted …
- ‘Robert Bloom’ (Echinacea purpurea): red-purple petals; prominent, dark orange centers
- ‘Finale White’ (E. purpurea): creamy-white petals; greenish-brown centers
- Narrow-leaf coneflower (E. augustifolia): similar to E. purpurea
- Pale purple coneflower (E. pallida); native to Ontario
- Sanguine purple coneflower (E. sanguinea): red-purple petals with streaks (sanguinea, Latin for “blood” refers to streaks in petals; native to southern states
- Smooth purple coneflower (E. laevigata): narrow, drooping, pale-pink petals; endangered
- Tennessee coneflower (E. tennesseensis): upturned mauve petals; greenish-pink centers
- Topeka purple coneflower (E. atrorubens): deep pink short petals; rare
- Wavy leaf coneflower (E. simulata): yellow pollen distinguishes it from E. pallida (white pollen)
- Yellow coneflower (E. paradoxa), aka Ozark coneflower: yellow petals
- ‘Cleopatra’ (E. hybrid): soft yellow petals; copper-green centers
Read about our favorite coneflower varieties here!
Catherine Boeckmann
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I have just merely pulled them up and planted them and they do just fine. I live in Zone 7 in NW Georgia.
What I need to know is do you cut them back in the late fall for the winter, If so how much do you leave of the plant?
Hi,
I live in Iowa. Our winters get a bit chilly -- hanging at -15F for periods last winter. I cut the coneflowers to the ground in November. They are covered with snow for months, and they do fine the next year.
We live in the woods. I can hardly keep any flowers around outside because of these little pests. Finally after trying every thing I could think of.....spray bottle of about 4 ozs water with a tablespoon of Murphys Oil. Shake and spray. I do this every few days. Even my small trees I planted. IT WORKS. Finally
Please see our Rabbit Pest Page for tips on how to keep rabbits out of your garden.
Hi I see a few people have asked the same question about buying yellow orange or red cone flowers and they turn pink or purple. I had the same problem and it wasn't the wrong tag because the flowers were in bloom and my soil seems fine I have no problem growing flowers. I asked at the store where I purchased them and they did not know the answer but we're going to research and see if they could find out what happened. I was so disappointed for the colors that I had chosen to turn pink when I had plenty of pink LOL . I also planted the colored ones on the opposite side of my yard away from the pink ones . Is there any other answer or any way to find out what is happening?
The pH/acidity levels of the soil could be the culprit. If it is too high or too low it can affect flower coloring.
Thanks for taking the time to scroll through the comments, Beth. We may have found a hint of solution to this puzzle: hybrids. A U of Illinois extension service columnist noted (in 2014) that she had similar experiences with coneflower soon after the introduction of unique Echinacea cultivars in the early 2000s. She records “so-so” results with several of the new plants, including death of some. And she reports having one plant bloom in two colors—one as advertised, so to speak, and one the traditional purple. And after it all, she says she is sticking with the traditional purple variety, Ehinacea purpurea. If you would like to read the column, it’s here: http://web.extension.illinois.edu/dmp/eb259/entry_8671/
Finally! Thanks for being the one to bring this all to light!
Many hybrid plants including turf grass return to there parent plants genes after a few years. Echinacea was the quickest return to original color that I have ever seen. We planted purple, orange, yellow and white echinacea and after 2nd year 90% purple. After splitting last year we had a few volunteer orange and yellow return but not the numbers that we planted. Good luck
Just a word of caution, buy from a reputable dealer, don't buy from some random person on ebay. I thought I was getting "Cheyenne Spirit" with different color flowers on one plant, but when it bloomed they are all pink! Nothing wrong with pink but it surely was a disappointment.
I have a well established crop of cone flower. I live in Missouri. If I cut them down after the first harvest of cut flowers will I get a second yield of blooms in the same season.
