How to Grow Sweet Corn: Planting, Pollination & Harvesting Tips

Good question! We looked into a few educational resources and while few explain kernel size directly, they emphasize ear size on which, of course, the kernels form. So, from Purdue University:

Optimum growing conditions set the stage for maximum ear size potential and exceptional grain yields at harvest time. 

(and) Kernel number (ear length) is strongly affected by environmental stresses. This means that potential ear length will vary dramatically from year to year as growing conditions vary. Severe stress can greatly reduce potential kernel number per row. Conversely, excellent growing conditions can encourage unusually high potential kernel number.

See more here https://www.agry.purdue.edu/ext/corn/news/timeless/EarSiz...">https://www.agry.purdue.edu/ext/corn/news/timeless/EarSiz... 

Hope this helps---

We simply don't know everything! Thank you for bringing this to our attention. Aflatoxin is a naturally occuring fungus that appears on many types of organic material, including grains, nuts, and decaying vegetation. Certain conditions, usually high heat and high humidity cause it to thrive. You can read more here https://extension2.missouri.edu/g4155">https://extension2.missouri.edu/g4155 and here https://www.douglas.k-state.edu/docs/cropsandlivestock/cr...">https://www.douglas.k-state.edu/docs/cropsandlivestock/cr...

I forgot to mention - we live in Growing zone 3-4 (right on the border of the two zones).

Generally, you'd want to plant corn between mid-April and mid-May, depending on how the weather is in spring. The soil should be warmed to around 60°F, in any case. The days to maturity is just that: the days it takes for the plant to reach maturity and start producing. If you start it now, you should expect harvestable corn by the end of August. So, in your case, it's not too late to plant, and you may even be able to sneak in a second harvest before frost if you plant another round of seeds in a week or so. (https://www.almanac.com/gardening/frostdates">Find your frost dates here.)

As for your second question, you are correct: corn is resistant to juglone, the toxic substance produced by black walnut trees. Feel free to plant it in the ground!

Everyone has their methods, but as you mentioned, corn is wind pollinated and in my honest opinion bagging and painting pollen is not necessary and a complete waste of time. All one needs to do in Billyboy Baggins case is walk/reach into your corn patch and shake the darn things, which is precisely what the wind does. Best of luck!

You can transplant at that stage. Better before now - so protect it from the sun and water well.

You must live a lot further south than do I!

Don't fret! It's unlikely that the light is strong enough to have any real effect on your garden, as long as the garden is getting full sun otherwise. And even if it were strong enough to have an effect, light that's in the red wavelength promotes blooming and fruiting in plants, which is a good thing for crops. 

Six inches is too deep for corn—2 inches is generally the best depth to plant the kernels at. Since you only planted them yesterday, there's still time to dig them up and replant them a little shallower. They shouldn't have any trouble germinating after being replanted. 

As for the Sell By date, don't worry about that! Corn kernels can remain viable for years if stored properly (in a freezer), so a few months past their Sell By date won't affect them at all. 

Hi Janell,

That is not true. If the corn has not matured by the time a late-season frost hits, the plants and cobs can be damaged and result in the death of the plant or poor-tasting corn. You can still eat it, but it may not taste very good.

Hi Sandy,

It sounds like your corn is infected with rust, a fungus disease that can greatly reduce the yield of your crops. There's not much you can do at this point in preventing the rust, but the ears of corn can be eaten safely, though they may be poor-tasting depending on if the rust infected the ears specifically.

Small shoots that appear alongside the base of a primary corn stalk are known as "tillers." These secondary stalks are actually a good sign; they mean that your plant is healthy and your soil is well-conditioned. Tillers are not an issue and generally won't compete significantly with the central stalk, but if you'd like to be sure, you can simply cut them off at their bases. 

David, We must be perfectly honest with you: After the research you say you have done, you have much more knowledge about corn than we do! But we will concur with you, based on the (il)logical comparison to peaches, with which we have some knowledge (but, it must to said, not much luck). Peach growers are advised to remove/prune small fruits to allow a smaller but better harvest. We think that the same would apply to corn. And it seems to apply to other plants, such as melons and pumpkin. After all, if the plant puts its energy into the remaining "fruit" (or ears, in this case), wouldn't it be as good as it can be?! Assuming every other aspect of the growing conditions are favorable, of course. We say, trim the ears off those stalks! And, if you feel it might be of value, leave a few stalks alone; don't trim them, and see, come fall, which method seems most productive.

And let us know how this goes, would you?

The success of transplanting corn depends on several factors, including temperature, light, soil fertility, variety, container depth (to allow the seedlings to grow deep roots), giving seedlings time to harden off, not allowing them to grow too much before transplanting (2 to 3 weeks is likely OK), etc. However, it has been done with success. You may find the following article, by the Vermont Cooperative Extension, helpful, about one commercial grower's experience.
http://www.uvm.edu/vtvegandberry/factsheets/transplanting...
Good luck!

Hello, I've grown sweetcorn on my UK alottment for the last two years with the following slightly different methods: Year 1: Sowing seeds in small hand made paper pots approx 1.5inch diameter, germinating in dark very warm cupboard. Out onto window sill, to get the light, as soon as the shoot shows through the compost. Keep on the window sill until about 2 inches tall. Transplant into 3 inch pots and back to the window sill until about 5-6 inches tall. Then out to small 'cold frame' in the garden until 16 or so inches tall. Then the weather was warm enough for them to go out into the ground on the alottment. Year 2: Sowing seeds in 3 inch pots, germinating in dark very warm cupboard. Out onto window sill to get the light as soon as the shoot shows through the compost. Keep on the window sill until about 5-6 inches tall. Then out to small 'cold frame' in the garden for a couple of weeks to get them used to the cooler temperatures. Then out to our 'poly tunnel' at the alottment (very warm enclosure) for a few weeks. Then, when they were 16 inches or so and the weather was warm enough, they went into the ground on the alottment. Windows in the back of the house have light until mid-day, ones in the front have sun later in the day so no more than 50% daylight for each set - I wonder what they would be like if they had sun all day. (temps 15-20 C) Cold frame in the garden has direct sunlight for only 2/3 day with direct sunlight the temp rises to 30 C+. (I hope I don't forget to open the top when it's sunny - it got to 54 C one day just a month ago and I almost lost my tomatoes...) Lots of indoor growing for us due to lower temps earlier in the year. Plenty of corn both years - first year we grew 40 plants, year 2 was 70 plants, this year we're going for a round hundred. A lot of varying info but I wanted to show you how hardy they can be with temps and transplanting. I still have sweetcorn in the freezer from last year and I have just potted my first seeds for this year. Good luck, Rob.

Hi! I too am from the Carolina and have been toiling in the garden for over 20 years. I always get my crops up in a rather unconventional way. I use the method of indoor to outdoor transplanting on beans, corn, tomatoes, etc. by getting them up in 16 FL. Oz Styrofoam cups using a mixture of 50% Jiffy Seed Starter soil and 50% Bacto Soil. I use a toothpick and poke plenty of holes in the bottom as well as the sides. Not only are the many tiny holes for water drainage but they also provide ample amounts of excess oxygen to the roots ( something the conventional means of planting does not provide ). Once everything is sprouted and growing good at around 7 to 8 inches ( given there's no fear of another frost ) I go ahead and transplant them outside. When transplanting plants or for that matter anything you need to make sure to not damage the roots which will sometimes stunt the plants growth. To do this simply water the the cups and let them soak up the water ensuring that the grow medium isn't too dry in turn resulting in a compact cup shaped plug of root and soil. Never transplant in the middle of the day. Best to do this process either early on in the day or later in the evening but regardless of the time always, always, always remember to adequately water the plants once they're in the ground. Transplanting has always been my method of choice because you take away all the unexpected variables that nature can throw at you. Hope this was helpful!

Just leave the corn plants alone. The size of the cobs will depend on how fertile the soil is and the water you apply. I plant my corn in good rich soil. I apply some fertiliser down each side of the row when plants are about 12-18" high and I then hill the soil up the plant. A good watering each second day. Cobs 8-9" long. Qld Australia.

Grow each crop in separate areas. Over cropping will deplete the soil nutrients. Tall plants will shade the smaller plants and stunt them. Plants need sunlight.

As far as companion plants, corn and potatoes do fine, although corn is a heavy feeder, while potatoes are medium feeders and do better without as much nitrogen (which encourages foliage rather than tuber formation). However, the other thing to keep in mind is the height of the corn. Plant them on the north side of the garden, so that they don't shade the shorter potato plants too much. Also, corn, which is wind pollinated, does nicely in the garden when planted in blocks rather than rows.

Each crop needs it's own space. Tall plants will shade smaller plants and they will suffer. Corn needs to be planted about 8" apart in rows about 2-2.5' apart. 2-3-4 rows. Pollen falls from the tassel down to the ears of corn - usually for about 5 days and mid morning generally. IF YOU have strong winds while this happens you will have pour pollination. When the plants are pollinating, go out in the morning and run your hand up the tassel and then rub the ear silks. Do some research about growing it - it is pretty simple to grow - right spacing. good fertilised soil and plenty of water. And get the pollination right.

Welcome to gardening, Willie! We have seen folks in a small-plot community garden create a mesh cage for the corn, specifically to keep critters away. We can not recall how that grower may have handled his tallest stalks. Check the seed packet/source to see how tall the corn can be expected to get. If it is not a whole lot taller, perhaps you can add a sort of mesh cover to the arrangement. If it is a lot taller,you might want to remake the cage to make it higher. It would seem a shame to put the crop at risk. Maybe you can use the existing cage, separately, as a pea fence or cuke/squash/melon vine trellis. Don't think of the effort as wasted; there is always another use for the mesh.

In the meantime, we looked into the idea of topping off. Apparently, farmers who grow corn for seed corn production top off (cut off) as much as two feet of the stalk. This removes the tassels so that the plants can only be pollinated by other plants. This goes on to say that the rows of corn that are topped are female; the rows that are not topped are male. Pollen is produced on the tassel and crossbreeding begins. The result is hybrid seed. You probably do not want to do that.

We wish you the best—

I would have put posts in the corners and sides if needed to lift the mesh up to 6-7' high. The cobs should be high enough that thinks can't eat them.

In a healthy crop, removing the suckers, also called tillers, makes little difference to the harvest yield or health of the plant, since they usually appear later in the season and can't compete with the main stalk. Their formation may indicate healthy conditions; some varieties tend to form suckers more often. If the crop had been damaged early in the season, or the plants are widely spaced, a corn plant may respond by growing suckers; in these cases, sometimes those suckers will produce harvestable ears. Otherwise, in a healthy, closely spaced crop, they won't usually.
 
If you'd like to remove suckers, only do so when they are very small, to prevent damage to the stalk; removing them when they are larger will weaken the plant and invite insects and diseases.

The author is The Old Farmer's Almanac. Web pages are updated continuously so there is not a publish date, per se.  Look up APA guidelines for how to reference a web article.

Germination depends on your soil temperatures and weather conditions. If the teperatures are 60 degrees F or warm, germination may take 10 to 12 days. If the temp is 50 to 55, it may take 3 weeks. 

For a fall harvest, it is recommended corn be planted mid- to late July, August 1st at the latest.

Brown silks are one sign that corn is maturing; also check the kernels themselves. If you puncture one with your fingernail, it should exude a milky liquid. If it is clear, it is not ready yet. However, there are also several diseases, pests, and cultural/environmental problems that can cause the same effect. Drought stress, for example, can interfere with pollination, and so can the feeding habits of certain insects. For in-depth information about corn ear problems--you might visit this page from the Ohio State University:
http://u.osu.edu/mastercorn/

It is due to lack of pollination - probably too windy when pollination occurred. After the tassels have opened up run your hand up the tassel collecting the pollen and then rub on the silks of the cob. Do this when there is little wind in the morning. The pollen is microscopic. Try and plant in a spot that is protected from the wind a bit if you can.

When the seedlings get to be 3 to 4 inches tall, remove seedlings (choose the weakest to remove, if you have the option) so that the spacing is now between 8 and 12 inches apart, giving the remaining plants enough room to mature healthily. If you have a vigorous variety, the larger spacing (12 inches) might be better. So, if you've planted at 4-inch spacing, remove every other to obtain 8-inch spacing; as a diagram, with uppercase "X" being the plants you want to keep and lowercase "x" for those you remove:  X x X x X x X. Or, if you've planted at 4-inch spacing, you can also choose a larger spacing, such as 12 inches; in this case, you'd remove the 2nd and 3rd plant out of every 4:  X x x X x x X x x X

Because some seeds may not germinate, some seedlings may be weak, some may be eaten by pests, etc., planting more corn initially, at a closer spacing (4 to 6 inches), gives you a better chance of getting the most corn for your space after thinning (8 to 12 inches).

Some varieties of corn naturally have a more flexible cob, but pests, diseases, environmental conditions, or nutrient deficiencies can sometimes make the cob softer than normal.

Do you mean the corn flea beetle? These pests attack corn seedlings in May and June. They can transmit bacterial wilt. Damage is usually minimal, but they cause many tiny holes in leaves, and tiny bleached lines or circles. Adults are tiny and black, and hop about.  For more information about flea beetles, see: http://www.almanac.com/pest/flea-beetles

Japanese beetles, on the other hand, are much larger, metallic blue-green beetles that emerge around June and July; they can skeletonize leaves of many plants, leaving almost nothing except the leaf veins; on corn, they may nibble on corn silk and tassels. For more information about these pests, see: http://www.almanac.com/pest/japanese-beetles

You're right, Japanese beetles sure can be pesky! Unfortunately, the most effective way to get rid of Japanese beetles is to hand pick them. For more tips on controlling these pests, check out http://www.almanac.com/content/japanese-beetles">our page on Japanese beetles. Good luck!

The more sun the better. Your spot sounds like it will be fine. Good luck with the Sunglow corn!

Please see planting guidelines above. To plant corn directly outdoors, select a time about 2 weeks after your last expected spring frost date. To find this information, you can go to the following link and put in your zip code:

https://www.almanac.com/gardening/frostdates

Another way is to use our Gardening Calendar page -- input your zip code, and it will tell you dates to plant various crops both indoors and out, including corn.

https://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-dates/

Hope this helps!

How do u apply the pantyhose to tomato plant. Would u mind being a little more descriptive on those steps. I like the idea

Hi Darwin,

If you use a quick-release fertilizer wait about two to three weeks before planting. If you use a slow-release fertilizer you can wait longer.

Good on ya, Wayne! Are you having us on for tucker?! Make room for ten and we'll bring the tatties! You're killing us here, where snow's forecast for Sunday–Monday. We're all "ears" to hear your season's off and running!

If you have 3 small plants you would pick the one that looks the strongest and discard the other 2. After the stalks get between knee and Hip height you can plant some pole beans around the bottom of the corn stalks and the bean plant will climb the stalk and that way you save garden space. You can also grow squash on the ground around the corn and that will help keep weeds out of the bed and again that saves garden space. Happy gardening!

Chose seedlings not for height but for heartiness, look for 2nd and 3rd sets of leaves, rich green color, stem sturdiness. To thin them out, use scissors to cut off stem at ground level. Never pull them up because it could damage the tender roots of the plant you are keeping. Always handle seedlings you're transplanting by the leaves, never the stem. Preferably by the root ball. Good luck!

Hi David,

We suggest that you contact your local extension service office. They can give you growing advice taking climate, soil and other factors into consideration. Here are a couple of links to get you started.

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/smallacreage/crops-gui...

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/smallacreage/site-sele...

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/vegetable/

Good luck!

hello !david if you don't mind i will invite you to visit here in philippines. you plant so many as you can.we will have an acres to be able for planting

We have all type of farming equipment in Johannesburg what are you looking to get very cheap I am

Hi Sue,

It sounds like you let the cobs stay on the plants too long. The trick is to check the cobs when they start fill out and the tassels turn brown. The kernels should be round and milky but still crisp.

Hi Nick,

Glad to hear about your successful corn crop! August is a bit too late to be planting a second crop in NH since the first expected frost is around Sept. 20. It would be better to plant some frost-hardy cole crops or lettuce in their place.

Hi Karen,

Bent stalks and tassels can also be signs of corn borer damage. If you already have ears growing your corn may be doing OK with no need to straighten the stalks.

When the silk turns brown the kernals are getting close to being ripe. The small cobs are probably not going to grow much bigger. You need to check the kernels for ripness before you harvest the last of your corn. The rain did not turn the silk brown.

I hope you didn't detassel your sweet corn. The tassel is what pollinates your corn so an ear will grow so you need to leave it on the plant.

Some farmers will cut off the silk to about 1 to 2 inches above the corn top to get all the silk the same length to pollinate every silk (you get the full cob of kernels) by hand then but you must use a paper bag to gather the pollen, dump it on the silk then put the bag over the cob stapling the bag together at the bottom. Hope this helps :-)

Your two varieties should be OK planted at the same time as the popcorn will tassel later.

Make sure to fertilize and water the corn when it first starts growing. Corn is a heavy feeder. Don't grow the corn too close together, leave at least 8 inches between each plant. Also don't grow the corn too close to the other vegetables.

When thinning, it's best not to pull the thinnings out of the ground (pinch instead), because it might disturb the roots of the seedlings that you want to keep. Some gardeners, though, do replant thinnings after pulling them up and have had success, while others find that most of their transplants don't survive. Corn can be fussy about having its roots disturbed, so be very careful about handling the transplants. If you do transplant them, place thinnings in a block together (using recommended spacing) in order for best wind pollination.

Yes. Follow the recommended spacing for your crop. For those seedlings that you wish to remove, pinch or prune the stems off at the soil surface--be careful not to injure surrounding seedlings. It's best not to pull the seedlings out, or you may disturb the roots of the seedling you are planning to keep. Keep the seedling that looks the healthiest--thick stem (not lanky), good color, healthy leaves.

It sounds like you may have corn smut. Look at different seeds and try to find one that is resistant to corn smut.

If it helps, here are our tips on managing raccoons in the garden, especially when it comes to corn: http://www.almanac.com/content/raccoons

Hi, Bill,

Our best advice for deer in the garden is probably that of our readers and the users of this site. (Some of their ideas are ones we've proposed  to them!). Here are a few of readers' recommendations for dealing with deer in the garden:

• A low (2ft) wire mesh, such as chicken wire, will deter small animals. If you have deer in the area place an additional high (3ft) wire or string 3ft outside the low fence and tie some rag flags to it. The deer will not jump the high fence and low fence both. Something about the combination makes them wary of being trapped. Use rot-resistant wood posts.

• Look for coyote urine at your garden supply store or online. Rodents won't come within yards of the smell. It's also good for fending off deer and other nuisance critters without harming them.

• I found the best thing for deer is human hair. This is very easy to get and free. You can go to just about any salon and ask for clippings. The longer hair works best. Then you just decorate like tinsle on a tree. The hair smells like us. This helps with just about any anilmal. Slugs can't cross hair either. (See if your local barber will save a bag of hair clippings for you, scatter it around your garden.)

• Deer hate fishing pole string. They can't see it so when they feel it scares them off. If you put up poles around the edge of your garden and string it around it should take care of the problem.

• I have a lot of deer, I found that by planting rosemary helps but I also found rosemary oil which is fantastic for keeping the deer away from my veggies and flowers

 I have heard that if you put a bar of Irish Spring soap in your garden the deer will not come near it. I would assume that with 1/2 an acre you would need a few.
Good luck!

• Hair clippings do help. Also randomly placing old knee high stockings containing Irish Spring soap shavings helps, as does hanging pie pans around. I think the key to any of these home remedies is not to use the same method for too long at the time. Rotate the remedy when you see deer venturing back into the forbidden territory.

All of these suggestions are at the bottom of this page: http://www.almanac.com/vegetable-garden-planning-for-begi...

Regarding Deer in your garden, I put 5 gallon white buckets in and around my garden. My garden is about 50 x 100 and I put about 7. Also for safety put them upside down so small children do not fall in them and so water will not collect and breed mosquitos. I also move them around a once in awhile. They are not pretty but it has worked for me to keep deer away I also have a radio on a timer to play a talk radio program most of the nite.

If you look this up on utube you will find this to be true. All you need are T posts and 30lb fishing line. String the fishing line at 2 feet high, 3.5 feet high and at the top of your T posts and you will keep the deer out!

Wouldn't the beans (the one's that would wrap around corn) suffocate the corn? If not, how far apart should the corn be from the beans? Can u plant in a row corn, beans, corn, peas, etc.?

The corn provides a natural trellis for the green bean vine to cling to for support. The green bean plant takes nitrogen from the air and deposits it into its root system making the soil rich in nitrogen. Corns need nitrogen and they get this from the nitrogen provided by the green bean plants. Your Dad was way ahead of all the "Organic Farmers" in planting corns and green beans together. When he harvests the green beans, especially when the corns are tassling and silking; he is helping in the corn pollination process. Every time he bumps into a corn plant; millions of pollen from the tassel will fall and some of the pollen will land into the silk and pollinate the corn. For a detailed information on the subject you may check the subject: Nitrogen Fixation - Rhizobia

It sounds like you were aiming to plant the "three sisters"—corn, beans, and pumpkin or squash. And, from what you describe, it sounds like you did it in reverse. See here for advice on doing this:

http://www.almanac.com/content/companion-planting-three-s...

We do not recommend removing and transplanting the corn at this point. Corn typically needs to be planted in blocks to pollinate effectively and it is not clear that your stalks are close enough. (The cluster described for the Three Sisters is block, albeit a small one.)

Hard to know what's up with the squash.

Pick the beans that are ready as that will encourage more.

Three-foot-high corn with only a spike tassel and no sign of an ear is an indication of barren soil. (Are you rotating the corn?) Do a soil test to check for missing nutrients. Your local coop extension should be able to help you.

Go to our squirrel page at http://www.almanac.com/content/squirrels for tips.

An aluminum pan with sliced cucumber will keep squirrels away. It works for me in my garden. they don't dig!

.22 long rifle works great. I am in the city limits, so I use what are called "quiets." These little cartridges are powderless, so they are not even as loud as a pellet gun.

In a healthy crop, removing the suckers, also called tillers, makes little difference to the harvest yield or health of the plant, since they usually appear later in the season and can't compete with the main stalk. Their formation may indicate healthy conditions; some varieties tend to form suckers more often. If the crop had been damaged early in the season, or the plants are widely spaced, a corn plant may respond by growing suckers; in these cases, sometimes those suckers will produce harvestable ears. Otherwise, in a healthy, closely spaced crop, they won't usually.

If you'd like to remove suckers, only do so when they are very small, to prevent damage to the stalk; removing them when they are larger will weaken the plant and invite insects and diseases.

For more information, you might be interested in:

http://www.agry.purdue.edu/ext/corn/news/articles.03/Till...

Planting corn before June 1 is ideal for good yield in your area.  The dates of maturity depend on the variety but they range from 45 days to 75 days.

Sybil, I'd say go for it! As mine is just starting to silk and will likely harvest in less than 2 weeks, the summer has barely begun! As always, keep the soil loose, plant in blocks'ish (mine is 8 rows of 14 ears each) where you have good ventilation, and mulch after germination. Following a tip from old NC farmers, I plant mine 2 to a hole, 18"apart and rows spaced at 36". I DO NOT THIN! Our garden was prepped with rabbit manure, then I side-dressed with 10-10-10 ONCE. Our corn is over 7' tall, with three ears on each.Good Luck.

Keep the leftover seeds in the packet they came in. Place the packet inside of a zip-close plastic bag. Store the bag in the freezer.

Corn germination occurs in soil with temperatures between 55 and 85 degrees F. If the soil temperature rises above 85 degrees F, corn may not germinate well and production may be stunted.

There are several possible causes for the uneven corn in your garden. Weather (too dry or too wet; warm and then a sudden cold spell) or your soil may have low pH. Test the soil and correct low pH by adding limestone . Phosphorus deficiency sometimes caused by wet, cold soil can also cause uneven growth.

Excessive heat is the main reason for loose shaggy broccoli heads. Planting too early in the spring can also cause heads to mature too early. Temperatures below 40 degrees F cause young plants to bolt. Drought conditions or fluctuating moisture will also cause broccoli heads to loosen. Some varieties bolt quicker than others.

Please see our growing advice at the top of this page.

We haven't tested this variety though we've heard mixed reviews about its germination success. Sometimes there is stunted growth because the soil isn't above 55 degrees. Also keep soil on the drier side and go with the wider spacing. We do think the germination may be a product issue, not yours.

Mix in compost, compost and more compost. Lots of recycling centers have compost for free. And if you haven't got enough compost, just add any dead organic material as it becomes available (like dead leaves as a mulch, some dried manure etc). It will eventually break down, and improve the soil quality.

In terms of your neighbor's cats in the garden:
Some readers say to try spraying a solution of a little cayenne and water.  It's nontoxic to the animals, doesn't hurt the plants, cats hate the smell. Reapply after rain.
You could also try placing moth balls around the edges of your garden.
There are also commercial cat repellents that you can get at garden centers or online at pet supply stores and gardening supply centers. Make sure that the repellent that you get is safe for any children, plants, pets, or other animals etc. that may be around. 

Definitely follow the direction on your seed packet.  Spacing depends on the variety of corn you are planting. Also we adjusted our spacing on this page after viewing more typical sweet corn varieties.

The reason that we plant extra seeds is because some do not germinate--plus you want to thin out the poorer seedings, saving the best plant from each spot.

Pollination happens once you have the silks. We plant it blocks of rows instead of a long, single row because corn is wind-pollinated and the pollen would distribute better this way.

I hope we're answering your question! All the best with some juicy garden-fresh corn!

It depends on the variety, but the days to maturity are usually about 65 to 75 days. 

We understand! Here is a very helpful page on how to deter redwing blackbirds from your sweet corn:

http://extension.umass.edu/vegetable/alerts/preventing-bi...

What often is most effective is a combination of visual and auditory deterrants. For example, combine scare-eye balloons with auditory repellents like shellcrackers or distress calls.

we have always had good luck hanging wind chimes and refelectors about to keep birds away from the garden

My remedy serves two purposes! I went to the dollar-type store and bought 2 dozen very shiny red whirly twirler things (stop laughing, you know what I mean) and fashioned them up on my fence perimeter (40x30). Not only does the movement and slapping noise deter birds, but you will have a moment or two to remember something pleasant while you are toiling about!

Sweet corn will adapt to a wide range of soil pH. However, optimum growth is obtained at pH 6.0 to 6.5.

I've heard of people growing dwarf corn varieties, but for normal sweet corn, you need full sun plus it pollinates best when sown in a block, so for planting, a minimum area of a 4-foot-square is required.

You can if you want to. Right now, I am using sweet corn for my science project. The corn that has grown the best is the corn that I have exposed to a homemade CO2 formula that is indoors and under a heat lamp. So far, my corn is 4.5 feet high!

Delores, it's simply not worth it unless you have a very big area. But my experience is that corn will be happy enough to stay where they are born, remaining in the same soil (house) and in the same environment (family). If you do, plan on transplanting your 4-7" seedlings after the ground has warmed and the air temps remain above 62ish, otherwise you may lose them to less-than-optimal conditions. Good luck, stay dirty!

Does the corn really taste fresh? I've tried freezing corn on the cob after picking, both shucked and unshucked and the problem is the corn seems soggy when we cook it later, not the plump fresh picked texture and flavor we had hoped for.

After those silky strands appear, you'll harvest in about 20 days. Wait until the silks become dry and brown and the kernels are smooth, plump and pop open when punctured with a thumbnail. Some ears mature more quickly than others.

It may give you relief to know the lizards are actually eating the insects and not trying to eat the corn. Lizards cause no measurable damage to plants in gardens and should be left alone.

The ants are probably there because of the aphids. They shouldn't be a problem but you can blast some insecticidal soap spray to get rid of the aphids and the ants will move on. As long as you are not using chemicals, just wash off your harvest and it is safe to eat.

Kandy Korn has a white silk and easily to spot because it's a bit colorful with red and green color on the husks and stalks. Its ears grow a little bigger (about 9 inches versus 8 inches for Bodacious). It takes lonerg to get to maturity (91 versus 75 days). Bodacious is one of our favorite yellow corns. Enjoy!

In New Jersey, sweet corn is usually planted in April and can go as late as early July. The days from germination to harvest usually range 70 to 80 days, but it all depends on the variety. Visit your local garden store and see if they have a seed packet and the days to maturity are on the back. There may be some quick-growing varieties that are 60 days.

"Sweet corn" is a variety of corn so that won't change. However, the corn turns from sugar to starch very quickly (within 24 hours). This is why the old adage was "start the water boiling, run to the patch, pick and husk the corn, run back to the pot, cook the corn, and eat or process immediately." Put corn in the refrigerator right away to keep it cool, not on the counter. If you can't eat corn from the garden, try to eat it within 24 hours of being picked. If that's not feasible, eat within a day or two.

People take the trouble to grow corn because corn really tastes best straight from the garden. If that's not possible, corn tastes freshest within 24 hours because most varieties convert their sugar to starch after that. Otherwise, try to use the corn within 1 to 2 days and do not husk until just prior to cooking. Put corn in the fridge as soon as possible so it keeps. You can also freeze corn. See our blog: http://www.almanac.com/blog/celestes-garden/garden-celest...

Not sure that you are going to get fatter corn. Try hilling soil from between the rows around the stalks. This causes the corn to send out more roots and may help the cobs grow bigger.

Pick the mature corn and leave the second immature corn on the stalk to finish growing.

Tassels do appear before the silk. But if it's been 10 days you should see some silk by now. Check your corn for insects. They may have eaten the silk. Or, little or no water when tassles and silk are developing can cause problems.

Hi Laine, Are you saying that the ears didn't develop? When corn doesn't develop kernels at the top, there are a variety of reasons:  Did you plant too close?  Corn prefers to be planted 9 inches to one foot apart. Is your corn getting enough potassium and nitrogen? If your soil isn't providing this, fertilize. Did you plant enough rows? (Corn needs to planted in big blocks for good pollinating.) Did you have dry weather during silking? Corn needs contstant water due to its shallow roots; we use a soaker hose. Hope this helps identify the problem and solution.

Hi, Gary, G90 is a late producer. Give it some time. How far apart did you plant? If planting was a bit thick, it may just slow down development as silks are 90% water. Give it some water and we hope you'll see something within a week or so.

Just keep waiting,i waited a long time for my ears to grow too and after a while they grew .

That's unfortunate, to say the least. This is called stalk lodging, and it is relatively common. If the stalk is not broken, it might recover. Lodging has three main causes: severe weather, European corn borer, and stalk rot disease. Expert advise suggests reducing stress in the corn field by, for example, choosing the proper hybrid, plant population, providing adequate moisture at critical times, insect control, and crop rotation. Since you mention that this is the second year in a row this has happened, consider crop rotation: Is this the same field used last year? Failure to properly rotate crops can contribute to their vulnerability. Also consider contacting your local agricultural extension service for advice specific to your region. Best wishes.

i have this happen every year. I just go and stand them back up by hand and mound dirt up at the base . Then just wait for them to recover . I have seen farmers fields where an entire section is knocked over , ugly but docent look to effect production.

It may be a pollination issue. Corn grows best in a block system--four short rows instead of long individual rows--as the pollen (which is carried by wind) can better reach the silk to fill out the ears. At this stage, you could try hand pollinating by rubbing the tassles on the new silk. Also, corn is a heavy feeder and drinker. Side dress your crop with a high-nitrogen fertilizer.

Sounds as if you have corn-ear worm. Be sure to rotate to a new spot of earth this year. Wait 'til the ears start to fill out (AFTER the pollen gets to the silks) and put 1 or 2 drops of mineral oil on the silks. Hope this helps.

You may have waited too late to plant the corn. The later you plant, the problems you have with worms.

U could try using mineral oil(small amount) on silk cuz the moths lay their eggs on the silk an when they hatch they start to eat right away. I tried it 1 year. It seems like alot of trouble but it does work for the most part

Ask a farmer about the spray they put on their corn that discourages worms from eating the ears of corn.

product called " Sevin" treats most garden pest i have used for this exact reason

when the corn starts to silk drop a few drops of mineral oil on them this will prevent the worms from getting in them

It always doesn't work so try putonghua fertilizer on them or just like suck them with a vacuum