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How to Grow Cabbage: Planting, Care & Harvest Tips

Head of green cabbage in organic home farm vegetable food
Photo Credit
St-Design/Getty Images
Botanical Name
Brassica oleracea (Capitata group)
Plant Type
Vegetables
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Soil pH
Neutral
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From seed to slaw—your guide to growing crisp, garden-fresh cabbage all season long!

Catherine Boeckmann
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Don’t leaf it out—cabbage is a must-grow! This cool-season champ brings hearty greens to your garden in both spring and fall. Whether you’re a seasoned grower or just getting your hands dirty, our Cabbage Growing Guide will show you how to plant, grow, and harvest this vitamin-packed veggie with ease.

About Cabbage

Cabbage (Brassica oleracea) is a cruciferous vegetable that has a very round and dense head with many tightly-wrapped layers of thick, sturdy leaves. It’s often green, but there is also a red/purple cabbage variety and even a white cabbage. The wild cabbage is a biennial plant, but we grow cabbage in the garden as an annual.

Because cabbage is hardy, it can withstand heavy frost and temperatures as low as 15 to 20° F. That means it can be grown in both spring or fall. That said, this cabbage is not a “beginner” crop as it can’t bear hot temperatures so you generally need to seed inside for early spring transplants.

Also note that cabbage needs a close eye; it can be a magnet for some garden pests. Rotating the cabbage crop every few years avoids the buildup of soilborne diseases. If you’re up for the challenge, we’ll help you provide the diligent care that cabbage needs and set you up for success! 

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Whether shredded raw into a slaw, stir-fried, steamed, or baked, there’s not much you can’t do with cabbage! You can add cabbage to soups, mix into the filling for egg rolls, and ferment cabbage to make sauerkraut and kimchi!

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Planting

For the best results, choose a planting site that receives full sun (at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day). Cabbage is a heavy feeder; it quickly depletes the soil of nutrients and needs a steady supply of water and nutrients throughout its growth. Prepare the soil in advance by mixing in aged manure and/or compost. Soil should also be well-draining: roots that stand in water cause heads to split or rot. 

When to Plant Cabbage

  • For a spring crop, give your cabbage a strong head start—literally! Start seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before your last spring frost date, and then transplant 2 to 3 weeks before the last spring frost in your area. Don’t plant too early; even though mature cabbage is hardy, the seedlings are sensitive to frost. Don’t plant too late because cabbage that matures in summer will be of poor quality.
     
  • For a fall crop, it’s still best to put seedlings in the ground (transplants), and avoid direct seeding because the soil is so warm in mid-summer. Transplant 10 to 12 weeks before your first fall frost date. If you start seeds indoors for a fall planting, start 14 to 16 weeks before frost, then transplant them outdoors at the 10 to 12 week mark. Remember that fall maturity takes a couple extra weeks because the daylight length is shorter in fall, slows growth. 

How to Plant Cabbage

  • Sow cabbage seedlings 1/4-inch deep. You don’t need a heat map for cabbage seeds. Just provide a bright grow light and room temperatures between 60°F and 70°F.
  • When the first true leaf appears, you may apply fertilizer to developing seedlings. Use a half-strength starter solution once a week. After two true leaves are present, apply fertilizer twice a week.  
  • After about three weeks, the plants should have five true leaves and have grown to 4 to 6 inches tall. Reduce watering. The seedlings are ready to go outdoors.
  • Start hardening off the seedlings in a sheltered place outside. (Start with just a couple of hours of sunlight, and add more over the next week. Bring indoors if night temperatures drop below 40°F.)
  • Transplant seedlings outdoors on a cloudy afternoon. Dig small holes so the plant is even with the ground as it was in the pot.
  • Water the plants in, or use a transplant starter solution high in phosphorus, and low in nitrogen and potassium.
  • Plant seedlings 24 to 30 inches apart in rows and 18 inches between plants. (Closer spacing yields smaller heads.). Per 20 feet of row, you only need to buy one seed packet, or 12 plants.

Check out this video to learn how to plant cabbage: 

Growing

  • When seedlings reach about 5 inches tall, thin to leave the desired space between them. If you wish, transplant the thinned seedlings elsewhere.
  • Mulch thickly around the area to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.
  • Water 2 inches per square foot per week.
  • The optimum soil temperature for growth is 60 to 65°F. Young plants exposed to temperatures below 45°F for a period of time may bolt or form loose heads. Cover plants if cold weather is expected.
  • Fertilize two weeks after transplanting with a balanced (10-10-10) fertilizer.
  • Three weeks later, add a nitrogen-rich fertilizer; cabbage needs nitrogen in the early stages.
  • Practice crop rotation with cabbages to avoid a buildup of soil-borne diseases.



    Place plants outside where they will receive a couple of hours of sunlight and have wind protection.
    Slowly expose them to more sunlight over the next week or two, bringing them indoors if night temperatures drop below 40°F.
    Dig small holes with a trowel, or dig a furrow with a shovel.
    Place the seedlings 15 to 18 inches apart, and fill the soil around them so that the plant is at the same level it was in its pot.
    Water the plants in, or use a transplant starter solution high in phosphorus, and low in nitrogen and potassium.
    Factor this into your calculations, ensuring you start your seeds early enough for them to mature before a hard freeze. Once the seedlings are 4-6 inches tall and have 2-4 sets of leaves, they are ready to transplant outdoors. 
    Hardening off the seedlings (acclimating them to outdoor conditions) before transplanting is recommended. 

     

Cabbage patch in the garden mulched with straw

Protect seedlings against pigeons with wire mesh, and use netting during the summer months to stop butterflies from laying their eggs on the leaves. It’s also worth growing nasturtiums nearby as a sacrificial crop for cabbage worms, which will be more likely to eat the nasturtiums instead of your cabbages. Mint can be used to help deter flea beetles. 

Keep cabbages watered, and weed between plants with a hoe or by hand. During exceptionally cold weather, winter cabbages may need to be protected with row covers or cloches. In very cold regions, growing cabbages in a greenhouse or cold frame will keep them safe.

“As cabbage heads mature, they become prone to splitting in response to heavy rainfall, especially following dry weather. To minimize head splitting, avoid late-season fertilization, provide adequate water throughout the growing season, and harvest heads as soon as they are firm. In addition, pruning roots with a shovel on one side of the plant, or twisting the plant after the heads have firmed, will break roots and prevent the uptake of excess water,” explains John Schoenhals, Extension Educator at the Ohio State University.

Types

There’s a fantastic range of cabbage varieties to choose from, offering different shapes, colors, and textures.

  • For an early harvest, try ‘Primo’ or ‘Stonehead.’
  • Quick-maturing ‘Golden Acre’ and ‘Quick Start’ yield 3-pound heads.
  • For Savoy types, try ‘Alcosa’, an early variety, or ‘Wirosa’, a late variety that overwinters as-is in southern gardens but needs protection in the North.
  • ‘Early Jersey Wakefield’ resists splitting. It’s an heirloom, slightly pointed, and 2- to 3-pound heads.
  • ‘Gonzales’ produces softball-sized heads, making it good for small gardens.
  • Disease-resistant varieties include ‘Blue Vantage’ and ‘Cheers’.
  • If you are planting for a fall harvest, try red or Chinese cabbage. Good varieties include ‘Integro’ and ‘Ruby Perfection’ (reds) and ‘Li Ren Choy’ (baby bok choy).

Cabbage heads, or hearts, can be rounded or conical, with leaves that are light green, dark green, red, or purple. Red cabbages are popular for braising or pickling.

Some types have a smooth, almost glossy appearance, while others, like the Savoy cabbage, produce deeply crinkled leaves that are perfect for mopping up sauces or gravy.

Cabbages are grouped according to when they’re harvested. Spring cabbages, which may also be harvested young as ‘spring greens,’ are ready from mid to late spring. Summer cabbages crop from summer into early autumn, while fall cabbages and winter varieties cover the remainder of the year.

Savoy cabbages have a long harvest period stretching from autumn all the way through winter to early spring.

Our Garden Planner can show you recommended sowing, transplanting, and harvesting times for different types of cabbage in your location.

Harvesting

  • Harvest when heads reach the desired size and are firm. Mature heads left on the stem may split. Days to maturity is around 70 days for most green cabbage varieties, and most produce 1- to 3-pound heads.
  • To harvest, cut each cabbage head at its base with a sharp knife. Remove any yellow leaves (retain loose green leaves; they provide protection in storage) and immediately bring the head indoors or place it in the shade. Alternatively, pull up the plant (roots and all) and hang it in a moist cellar that reaches near-freezing temperatures.
  • Winter cabbages are sweeter after a light frost. Spring cabbages can be harvested young and loose as spring greens, or left to grow on to form a tight head of leaves.
  • To get two crops, cut the cabbage head out of the plant, leaving the outer leaves and roots in the garden. The plant will send up new heads; pinch off those until only four or so smaller heads remain. Harvest when tennis ball-size (perfect for salads!).
  • After harvesting, remove the entire stem and root system from the soil to prevent disease. Only compost healthy plants; destroy any with maggot infestation.

How to Store Cabbages

  • Cabbage can be stored in the refrigerator for up to two weeks, wrapped lightly in plastic. Make sure it is dry before storing. In proper root cellar conditions, cabbage will keep for up to 3 months. See our article on root cellars.
  • Follow this old-time technique to get the most out of your cabbage crop:
    1. In the fall, harvest the entire cabbage plant—stems, head, and roots—enjoying the head as usual and storing the roots in a root cellar through winter.
    2. As soon as the ground has thawed in spring, plant the roots outdoors.
    3. Soon, fresh sprouts will form, which can be eaten alone or added to soups, salads, or a dish of your choice.
    4. These replanted cabbages won’t produce full heads, but they should go to seed by the end of summer, providing next year’s round of cabbage seeds!
    • Note: This can also be done indoors on a windowsill in mid-to late winter; keep roots damp and sprouts should form.
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Pests/Diseases

Some old folklore tells us: Scatter elder leaves over your cabbage to keep the bugs away.

Cabbage Pests and Diseases
Pest/DiseaseTypeSymptomsControl/Prevention
AphidsInsectMisshapen/yellow leaves; sticky “honeydew” (excrement); sooty, black moldGrow companion plants; knock off with water spray; apply insecticidal soap; put banana or orange peels around plants; wipe leaves with a 1 to 2 percent solution of dish soap (no additives) and water every 2 to 3 days for 2 weeks; add native plants to invite beneficial insects
Black rotFungusYellow, V-shape areas on leaf edges that brown and progress toward leaf center; leaves eventually collapse; stem cross sections reveal blackened veinsDestroy infected plants; choose resistant varieties; provide good drainage; remove plant debris; rotate crops
Cabbage loopersInsectLarge, ragged holes in leaves from larval feeding; defoliation; stunted or bored heads; excrementHandpick; add native plants to invite beneficial insects; spray larvae with insecticidal soap or Bt; use row covers; remove plant debris
Cabbage root maggotsInsectWilted/stunted plants; off-color leaves; larvae feeding on rootsUse collars around seedling stems; monitor adults with yellow sticky traps; use row covers; destroy crop residue; till soil in fall; rotate crops
CabbagewormsInsectLeaves have large, ragged holes or are skeletonized; heads bored; dark green excrement; yellowish eggs laid singly on leaf undersidesHandpick; use row covers; add native plants to invite beneficial insects; grow companion plants (especially thyme); spray Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt)
ClubrootFungusWilted/stunted plants; yellow leaves; roots appear swollen/distortedDestroy infected plants; solarize soil; maintain soil pH of around 7.2; disinfect tools; rotate crops
Downy mildewFungusYellow, angular spots on upper leaf surfaces that turn brown; white/purple/gray cottony growth on leaf undersides only; distorted leaves; defoliationRemove plant debris; choose resistant varieties; ensure good air circulation; avoid overhead watering
Flea beetlesInsectNumerous tiny holes in leavesUse row covers; mulch heavily; add native plants to invite beneficial insects
Slugs/snailsMolluskIrregular holes in leaves; slimy secretion on plants/soil; seedlings “disappear”Handpick; avoid thick bark mulch; use copper plant collars; avoid overhead watering; lay boards on soil in evening, and in morning dispose of “hiding” pests in hot, soapy water; drown in deep container filled with 1/2 inch of beer, or sugar water and yeast, and sunk so that top edge is slightly above ground; apply 1-inch-wide strip of food-grade diatomaceous earth as barrier
StinkbugsInsectYellow/white blotches on leaves; eggs, often keg-shape, in clusters on leaf undersidesDestroy crop residue; handpick (bugs emit odor, wear gloves); destroy eggs; spray nymphs with insecticidal soap; use row covers; weed; till soil in fall
ThripsInsectLeaves, especially in folds near base, have white patches or silver streaks; brown leaf tips; blistering/bronzing on cabbage leaves; curling or scarringRemove plant debris; choose resistant varieties; add native plants to invite beneficial insects; use row covers; use straw mulch; monitor adults with yellow or white sticky traps; use sprinklers or other overhead watering
White moldFungusPale gray, “water-soaked” areas on stems, leaves, and other plant parts that enlarge and develop white, cottony growth, later with black particles; bleached areas; crowns rot; plants wilt/collapseDestroy infected plants; ensure good air circulation; water in morning; weed; destroy crop residue; rotating crops on 5-year or longer cycle may help
Cabbageworm damage on a cabbage plant in a garden
Cabbageworm damage

Wit and Wisdom

  • Traditionally, cabbage seeds were planted on St. Patrick’s Day in northern zones. Old-time farmers believed that to make them grow well you needed to plant them while wearing your nightclothes!
  • Plant near beans and cucumbers, not near broccoli, cauliflower, strawberries, or tomatoes. Check out our chart of plant companions for an expanded list of friends and foes.
  • A 127-pound cabbage won first prize at the Alaska State Fair in 2009.

Cabbage: A familiar kitchen-garden vegetable about as large and wise as a man’s head.
—Abrose Bierce (1842–c.1914)

Recipes

Peel-a-Pound Soup (Diet Cabbage Soup)
Pork Tenderloin with Apples and Red Cabbage
Corned Beef and Cabbage
Mom's Caraway Coleslaw

Cooking Notes

Fun Tip: If boiling cabbage, drop walnuts (shell on) into the water; they will absorb the cabbage’s unpleasant odor.

Vegetables
About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana. Read More from Catherine Boeckmann
 

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Comments

Grandson received a plant in May from school...obviously should have been in the Fall. It is a large head or some type like that(?) growing well, just starting to form head. Temps up to mid 90's. keeping it in the shade as much as possible. any other tips to keep it healthy? have thought of bringing it inside but then no sun. Right now gets morning sun mainly and some peek through until about noon. assume it will be another 40-60 days before it is finished growing. no bolting seen :) Thank you!

Cabbage is indeed a cool-weather crop usually transplanted after summer heat has passed. Your instinct about shade are correct. You’ll want some kind of shade netting to keep both the soil and air cooler as well as keep the cabbage from being scorched. For best results, suspend the shade netting several inches above the cabbage letting it rest on some kind of frame.If you haven’t done so already, put mulch on the soil to keep it cool. Of course, water to keep the soil from drying out. Cabbage gets thirsty. If it doesn’t work out, you’ll know it’s not your fault! Hot weather is tough on some plants, just like people!

sbusiso (not verified)

7 years 6 months ago

I love planting

Everistus Ifeanyi (not verified)

7 years 11 months ago

I leave in the temperate region of Africa and want to start cabbage production in a large scale so i need a kind of lecture on how to start so that i can succeed.

Greetings.
I want to become a commercial farmer of cabbages, i need to know on how to start farming. Please assist with the procedure and provide with messures to control the diseases.

How to grow cabbage, best chemical to used to keep away bats ,worm and diseases in jamaica wi.

I would like to know what are the requirements for me to sell vagitables(cabbages) to large interprise supermarkets

Try contacting your "Local or Gov. Department of Agriculture" you can get their contact info @ the Dept. Agriculture website; you could also research other crops; Carrots might be good; being Carrots Greens are edible as well as the Carrot Root;;)AR;;