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Planting and Growing Nasturtiums from Seed

Nasturtium flower with round green leaves

Bright orange nasturtium flowers with distinctive round leaves. Credit: Pixabay

Botanical Name
Tropaeolum majus, T. minus
Plant Type
Flowers
USDA Zones
10a
10b
11a
11b
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Partial Sun
Soil pH
Neutral
Water Needs
Moderate
Height
1–3 feet
Spread
1–3 feet
Bloom Time
Summer
Fall
Flower Color
Orange
Red
White
Yellow
Multicolor
Toxicity
Non-toxic
Resilience
Heat-Tolerant
Special Features
Attracts Butterflies
Attracts Pollinators
Attracts Hummingbirds
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener
Almanac Guide to Herbs

Cheery nasturtiums are powerhouse annuals that pull double duty in the garden. Easy to grow from seed, these fast-growing plants offer bright flowers, edible leaves and blooms, and even help draw pests away from nearby vegetables. Here’s how to plant nasturtiums, grow them successfully, and make the most of their companion-planting benefits. 

Available in trailing or climbing varieties (Tropaeolum majus) and compact bush types (T. minus), nasturtiums adapt easily to different spaces. I love growing mounding types in pots where their tidy shape shines, while trailing varieties sprawl as cheerful groundcovers near melons, cucumbers, pumpkins, and borage. 

They’re widely used in companion planting, drawing aphids away from broccoli, cauliflower, radishes, and other cruciferous vegetables. As a bonus, nasturtiums attract hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies, making them hardworking pollinator plants as well. They also attract hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies. Although often grown for their bright blooms, nasturtiums aren’t just a “pretty face”—their flowers and leaves are edible, with a peppery flavor, and the seedpods can be pickled like capers.

Read Next

Planting

When to Plant Nasturtiums

Although nasturtiums can grow perennially in warm climates, they are usually treated as annuals and grown from fresh seed each spring. Direct sow seeds 1 to 2 weeks after your last spring frost, when soil temperatures reach between 55° and 65°F.

You can start seeds indoors 2 to 4 weeks before your last frost date, but nasturtiums have fragile root systems that don’t transplant well. I usually recommend direct sowing whenever possible.

Where to Plant

Nasturtiums grow well in pots, raised beds, or in-ground gardens, as long as they receive plenty of sun and well-draining soil. They bloom best with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily.

Poor soil is actually preferable. These are light feeders, and overly rich soil can result in lush leaves but fewer flowers.

How to Plant Nasturtiums

  • Prep the planting site. Remove weeds, loosen the soil, and work a light touch of compost into the top few inches. In containers, use a well-draining potting mix and add a bit of compost or worm castings.
  • Sow the seeds. Plant nasturtium seeds about 1/2 inch deep and space multiple plants around 10 to 12 inches apart. Soaking the seeds for 8 to 24 hours before planting can help them sprout better!
Nasturtium seeds held in hand next to orange flower.
Nasturtium seeds are large and easy to sow directly into garden soil. Credit: Amverlly
  • Tend seeds with care. After planting, provide nasturtium seeds with plenty of light, and water them enough to keep the soil evenly moist. They should sprout in about 7 to 10 days.
  • Transplant if needed. If you start seeds indoors, harden them off and transplant outside once the risk of frost has past. Just bury the seedlings at the same depth at which they were growing in their nursery pots.
  • Add support. If growing trailing or climbing varieties. Install install trellises early, so roots aren’t disturbed later.
Trailing nasturtiums growing over wooden fence.
Trailing nasturtiums climbing over a garden fence.

Growing

Watering

Although nasturtiums are drought-tolerant once established, they bloom best with regular watering. Container plants dry out more quickly than garden beds and may need more frequent attention.

Water when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feels dry to the touch, but avoid overwatering. Nasturtiums are sensitive to soggy soil and can rot if their roots stay wet too long.

Fertilizing

Nasturtiums thrive in lean soil and generally don’t need fertilizer. In my experience, mixing a small amount of compost or worm castings into the soil before planting is plenty—after that, I leave them alone.

Pruning and Maintenance

Container-grown nasturtiums may benefit from occasional trimming to keep them compact, but pruning is usually optional. Remove faded flowers (deadhead them) to extend bloom time and encourage the plant to produce more buds.

Seasonal Care

During intense summer heat, nasturtiums may slow or temporarily stop blooming. This is usually heat stress, and plants often rebound when temperatures moderate. Deep watering during hot spells can help reduce stress.

In most regions, nasturtiums are grown as annuals and removed at the end of the season. In frost-free climates, they may persist year-round with light mulching and occasional watering.

Harvesting

When to Harvest

Nasturtium leaves and flowers can be harvested throughout the growing season. For the best flavor, pick young, tender leaves and freshly opened blooms. 

If you plan to pickle the seedpods, harvest them while they’re still green and immature, before the seeds harden inside.

How to Harvest

Use clean scissors or garden snips to clip leaves, flowers, or seedpods without tearing the stems. Avoid removing more than one-third of the plant at a time so it can continue growing and producing.

Storage and Preservation

To keep your harvest fresh, place cut leaves and flowers in a sealed plastic bag or airtight container in the refrigerator. In my experience, they’ll stay fresh for about 3 to 7 days.

Pests and Problems

While nasturtiums are relatively tough plants that can handle a range of conditions, they’re not completely immune to problems. Most issues are related to light, heat, or pests rather than serious disease.

Common Problems

  • Reduced flowering. If nasturtiums aren’t blooming well, they’re often getting too little sun or too much nitrogen. These plants prefer full light and lean soil. Rich soil produces lots of leaves but fewer flowers.
  • Wilting in heat. During hot weather, nasturtiums may droop, especially if the soil dries out. In my experience, they usually bounce back quickly after deep watering or when temperatures cool slightly.
  • Leggy or weak growth. Low light can cause stretched, spindly stems. Move plants to a sunnier spot if possible.
  • Pest buildup. Because nasturtiums are often used in companion planting near broccoli, cabbage, radishes, and other brassicas, they can attract aphids. I rarely intervene unless infestations become heavy—a strong spray of water is usually enough.

Common Pests

Nasturtiums are often used as trap crops in companion planting, especially near broccoli, cabbage, and other brassicas. Because of this, they commonly attract aphids, and occasionally caterpillars, flea beetles, slugs, snails, or whiteflies.

Nasturtiums growing beside cabbage in vegetable garden.
Nasturtiums are often planted near cabbage and other brassicas as trap crops to attract aphids. Photo by Catherine Boeckmann.

In most home gardens, pest damage is minor and largely cosmetic. Aphids can be rinsed off with a strong spray of water, and larger insects can be hand-picked.

Personally, I usually leave my nasturtiums alone. I find pest issues to be relatively insignificant, and I don’t want to deter pollinators from visiting my plants.

Plant Diseases

Nasturtiums may occasionally develop mosaic viruses, leaf spot, or blight, though serious disease is uncommon in home gardens.

To reduce risk:

  • Start with fresh seed from reliable suppliers.
  • Avoid reusing old potting mix.
  • Rotate planting areas each season.
  • Remove plant debris in fall.

Good airflow and well-draining soil go a long way toward preventing problems.

Types

Nasturtiums are available in bush and trailing forms, with flowers ranging from soft yellows and peaches to deep reds and oranges. Leaf color can vary too, with some varieties offering attractive variegation.

  • ‘Alaska Mix’ features variegated foliage and mixed flower colors, making it a standout in containers.
  • ‘Variegatus’ is a trailing type with red or orange blooms, well suited for spilling over edges or climbing supports.
  • ‘Peach Melba’ offers creamy yellow flowers with bright orange-red centers for a softer color palette.
Yellow and peach nasturtium flowers with green foliage.
Nasturtiums come in a range of colors from soft yellow to deep orange and red.

Wit and Wisdom

  • Nasturtium flowers are said to symbolize patriotism and victory in battle. Find more flower meanings here.
  • Nasturtiums have long been grown as edible ornamentals, valued for both their bright blooms and peppery leaves.
  • Each spring, gardeners at Boston’s Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum hang baskets of nasturtiums from the courtyard balconies, training vines to cascade nearly 20 feet for a spectacular three-week display.

Flowers
About The Author
Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann is the Executive Digital Editor of Almanac.com, the website companion of The Old Farmer's Almanac. She covers gardening, plants, pest control, soil composition, seasonal and moon c...
Read More from Catherine Boeckmann

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Comments

<span>Angela</span> Fri, 05/22/2026 - 07:40
Deer ate mine last week.
<span>Iris Miller</span> Tue, 05/31/2022 - 13:07
I would like to order seeds for edible flowers as described in this news letter. Do you sell them? Who do you recommend? I live in Greenwich, NY zipcode 12834 Thanks
<span>B. Edwards</span> Sun, 04/23/2023 - 13:58
I've been ordering my Heirloom seeds from Baker Creek Seeds.. out of Missouri. ALL their seeds are heirlooms. They have a MULTITUDE of items. Last year, one of my Black Cherry Tomatoe plants produced POUNDS of beautiful little cherry tomatoes! Just wanted to share their name/site, as I have ordered Nasturtiums from them. Only attempted them 1 year, of which our weather (Kentucky) was horrible that year, so I had 'issues' with a lot of my garden plants. Just wanted to share them with you, and everyone else! Good luck!!! https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.rareseeds.com/&ved=2ahUKEwie8I6wyMD-AhVlhIkEHZ7JA1UQFnoECAkQAQ&usg=AOvVaw0WD-t_Ocjy1BuO3Xodw3o5
<span>Brad Frazee</span> Sat, 10/29/2022 - 09:32
Hi Iris, I live in nearby in Speigletown N.Y. and found nasturtium seed packets for sale a few years ago at the Potter Hill Barn off route 7 Hoosick Falls. Their phone number is 518 686-7777. Once you have established plants, in the fall harvest the chick pea size seeds, and dry them. You should have more than enough for next year and should never have to buy seeds again.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Fri, 06/03/2022 - 14:16

We do not currently sell nasturtium seeds, but we do have a number of other (non-edible) flower seeds available in our online store.

 <span>Eddie</span> Sat, 07/03/2021 - 21:30
hi, i live in San Francisco and my vines were really full and green early spring but now the vines are turning yellow and shriveling up and the flowers are dying off. i have nasturtiams in two other beds (those beds appear ok for now) and crawling up an ugly cyclone fence. we are in a drought but my neighborhood is in the constant SF fog and wind. they get good sun in the day when its out. do you have any idea what is causing them to die off? will i loose all my beds? (they are a great cover on the cyclone fence and would hate to loose that plus they grow alot faster than jasmine) please advise. Thanks! -eddie
<span>Angela</span> Thu, 06/15/2023 - 13:37
The same thing is happening to mine!! I live in Alameda so I have a similar climate to San Francisco. I have LOADS of seed pods also which makes me think maybe they’ve gone through a “season” already and are just winding up the cycle. I don’t know what to do to extend their growth. I’m going to throw new seeds in the ground and maybe they’ll take off…
<span>Saber</span> Tue, 05/14/2024 - 07:10
Angelia - Deadhead your nasturtiums! If you leave the dead flower heads on your plant, they will go to seed. Deadhead the old flower heads and trim back any wilted or yellow leaves. And remember to use pruning shears and cut off instead of pinch off any dead flowers and leaves. Pinching off will cause damage to your nasturtium's vines and cause them to die off also. I usually walk by and deadhead my plants every time I am in the garden. Takes only minutes and will keep my flowers coming all summer long. Stop deadheading in the early fall, thus allowing the plant to go to seed so you can get plenty of seed pods for the following year. One last tip: before planting nasturtiums, lightly rub your nasturtium seeds between two sheets of sandpaper to lightly scrape the outer coating of the seeds. The key here is LIGHTLY sand the seeds. This will help to break down the outer shell of the seed and help it to germinate quicker. Happy Growing!!!
<span>Kelly</span> Mon, 03/21/2022 - 20:56
They are annuals. They die off every year although they will probably reseed themselves
<span>Robin</span> Sat, 05/29/2021 - 09:01
I planted fresh (purchased this season) Nasturtium seeds both in the ground and in containers after all risk of frost and it’s been 2 weeks and nothing has germinated. The package said to soak the seeds overnight which I did. Any ideas what’s going on? Should I keep waiting?