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How to Plant and Grow Northern Bayberry, a Hardy Native Shrub

Close-up of gray wax-coated berry clusters on a northern bayberry shrub branch

Northern bayberry (Morella pensylvanica) produces distinctive gray, wax-coated berries that add winter interest and have long been used for traditional candles.

Photo Credit
Dana Dagle
Botanical Name
Myrica pensylvanica or Morella pensylvanica
Plant Type
Shrubs and Bushes
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Part Sun
Soil pH
Acidic
Neutral
Hardiness Zone
3
4
5
6
7
Special Features
Attracts Songbirds
Deer-resistant

Fragrant foliage, winter berries, and low-maintenance native beauty

Written By: Lauren Landers Master Gardener and Contributing Writer

Northern bayberry (Morella pensylvanica, formerly Myrica pensylvanica) is a hardy native shrub prized for its fragrant leaves and gray, wax-coated berries. Cold-tolerant and adaptable, it grows across much of eastern North America and thrives in sandy soils, coastal sites, and inland landscapes alike.

In this guide, we’ll walk you through the basics of planting and growing northern bayberry, explain what to know about selecting male and female plants for berry production, and introduce you to related bayberry varieties you may want to try. We’ll also cover what makes bayberry different from other similarly named shrubs and how to ensure you get berries on your plants.

About Bayberry Plants

Despite the name, bayberry shrubs are not closely related to bay laurel, but they produce equally fragrant leaves that release their scent when crushed. There are around 30 to 50 species of bayberry plants globally, but in North America, northern bayberry is one of the most common native varieties, and the species most gardeners mean when they say “bayberry.”

Hardy and resilient, northern bayberry plants grow wild from Canada south into the Mid-Atlantic and parts of the Midwest. Along the coast, these shrubs often stay smaller and form dense colonies that help stabilize sandy soil. Inland, bayberry plants typically reach about 6 to 10 feet in height — just the right size for a specimen shrub, informal hedge, or low-maintenance foundation planting.

Mature northern bayberry shrub growing in a landscape setting
Northern bayberry grows into a dense, multi-stemmed shrub ideal for hedges, foundations, and coastal plantings. Credit: Forest Pictures

Not only do bayberry plants tolerate salt, drought, high winds, heat, and occasional flooding, but they’re also naturally deer-resistant, useful for erosion control, and largely take care of themselves once established. In mild climates, their glossy green leaves may remain semi-evergreen. In colder regions, the shrubs drop their foliage but retain clusters of gray to white, wax-coated berries that attract birds like robins, bluebirds, woodpeckers, and warblers.

Due to their high salt tolerance, bayberries are excellent choices for coastal gardens, sandy sites, and landscapes exposed to winter road salt. They grow well near water features and blend easily into cottage, woodland, and native plant gardens. Plant them near a walkway if you can—their fragrant leaves smell best when crushed.

I grow bayberry as a foundational shrub in my own native plant garden and love pairing it with plants that share similar care needs—like native roses, St. John’s wort, sweet ferns, cranberries, and meadowsweet. I planted mine near a garden walkway so I can brush against the foliage and enjoy the fragrance, which is strongest when the leaves are crushed. Thanks to its high salt tolerance, bayberry is also an excellent choice for coastal gardens, grows well near water features, and blends beautifully into cottage or woodland landscapes.

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Planting

Bayberry plants are usually sold in pots at local nurseries, particularly those that specialize in native plants. When choosing a spot, make sure to give your shrubs plenty of room to spread. A single plant will typically grow 5 to 10 feet wide and may spread by suckers to form colonies if allowed.

When to Plant Bayberry

The best time to plant northern bayberry is in late summer to early fall. Aim to plant at least four weeks before your average first frost.

How to Plant Bayberry

  • Dig a hole. Choose a growing location in full sun to part shade and dig a planting hole as deep as the root ball and twice as wide.
  • Loosen the roots. Gently remove the plant from its pot and loosen any circling roots.
  • Set the plant. Position the shrub so the top of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil.
  • Backfill with soil. Refill the hole, firming the soil gently to remove air pockets.
  • Water and mulch. Water thoroughly and apply 2 to 3 inches of mulch around the base, keeping mulch away from the stems.
  • Proper spacing. Space plants 5 to 10 feet apart — closer if planting a privacy hedge.

Growing

Bayberries grow in a range of soil types and tolerate both damp and dry conditions, as well as salt exposure. Like legumes, bayberries also fix nitrogen, allowing them to grow well in poor soil and gradually improve soil quality over time.

Male and Female Bayberry Plants
Only female bayberry plants produce berries, and they must be wind-pollinated by a nearby male shrub to set fruit. For reliable berry production, grow at least one male plant for every five female plants and position them within about 10 feet of each other.

Water
Once established, bayberries are drought-tolerant and only need to be watered during long periods of drought. New plantings, however, should be provided with about 1-inch of water per week during their first growing season.
Light
Bayberries can be grown in full to part sun locations as long as they get at least 5 hours of light per day.
Humidity
Most varieties of bayberries prefer moderate to high humidity, but they can tolerate low humidity too.
Temperature
Northern bayberry plants are heat and cold tolerant and can survive sub-zero temperatures once established. If you live in a warmer spot, try out southern bayberry, which grows even better in hot areas!
Fertilizer
Because bayberries naturally fix nitrogen, there’s no need to fertilize them.
Toxicity
Bayberry berries are not considered edible and may cause stomach upset if ingested; this shrub is grown for ornamental and ecological value rather than fruit.

Types

There are dozens of bayberry varieties to choose from, but northern and southern bayberries are the most common. Some plants are more tolerant of heat, cold, and damp than others, but here are a few popular varieties you may want to try!

  • Southern Bayberry (Morella cerifera): Also known as the wax myrtle, southern bayberry thrives in heat and is hardy from zones 7 through 11. These plants also produce waxy berries; however, they are flammable and should not be grown near homes or other structures.
  • Sweetgale (Myrica gale): Sometimes dubbed “bog myrtle,” this native bayberry grows in zones 2 through 6 and is highly tolerant of damp conditions. It produces cone-like structures rather than berries, though.
  • Swamp Bayberry (Myrica caroliniensis): Native to coastal areas from zones 7 to 9, swamp bayberry produces berries and grows up to 8 feet high; however, it’s not as fragrant as other varieties.

Harvesting

Bayberries ripen from late fall into early winter. Mature berries are gray to white and coated with a distinctive waxy bloom.

Bayberry berries are not considered edible and are not grown for culinary use. Historically, the waxy coating on the fruit was harvested to make traditional bayberry candles.

If you’re interested in trying your hand at candle-making, the National Candle Association provides an overview of traditional bayberry candle methods and safety considerations.

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Pests/Diseases

Bayberries naturally repel most pests, including deer and rabbits, and are generally trouble-free once established. However, like most shrubs, they can occasionally be affected by diseases such as anthracnose, boxwood blight, or mosaic virus.

Serious problems are uncommon when plants are grown in full sun with well-drained soil and good air circulation.

Common Signs of Stress

Leaf spots or browning foliage: Fungal issues such as anthracnose may cause spotting or premature leaf drop, particularly during prolonged wet weather.

Yellowing or stunted growth: Poor drainage or compacted soil is a more common cause of decline than pests. Although bayberry tolerates damp sites, consistently waterlogged soil can stress roots.

Distorted or mottled leaves: Viral infections such as mosaic virus are rare but can cause discoloration. Infected plants should be removed, as there is no cure.

Potting and Repotting

Some varieties of bayberries can be grown in pots, too! Just choose a well-draining pot that’s 10 to 12 inches wider than your plant’s root ball, use a potting mix with lots of sand or perlite for drainage, and repot the plants every 2 to 3 years when they’re dormant in late fall to winter. 

Propagation

Bayberries can be propagated either by division or cuttings, depending on your patience and gardening style. 

Close-up of green northern bayberry stems and leaves suitable for propagation
Healthy new growth on northern bayberry, suitable for propagation by cuttings. Credit: Mizy
  • Cuttings: Take 4 to 6-inch-long cuttings of semi-hardwood stems from the current season’s growth in midsummer. Remove the lower leaves on the cuttings, scar the base of the cuttings with a knife, and dip the cuttings in rooting hormone. Plant the cuttings in pots filled with a 1:1 ratio of coconut coir and perlite, cover them with plastic, keep them in a warm and well-lit spot, water enough to keep the soil consistently moist, and transplant the cuttings into your garden when they form roots.
  • Division: Locate rooted suckers or shoots around the base of female bayberry plants and use a sharp, sterilized knife to separate the rooted divisions from the parent plant. Remove all but the uppermost leaves from the divisions, replant them ASAP, and water regularly to help them settle.

Seasonal Care
Adding mulch and perhaps a wind break around bayberry plants can help them tolerate extreme cold better; however, these plants usually do just fine in winters in zones 3 to 7.

Bayberries generally don’t need pruning beyond removing diseased, dead, and damaged branches from time to time. If desired, you can prune these plants into a tree-like form or just to improve their structure, but this is best done when the plants are dormant from late winter to early spring.

Wit and Wisdom

  • Bayberry candles were first used by American colonists and are known for burning clean and smoke-free. A long-standing tradition claims that burning a bayberry candle on New Year’s Day brings good luck for the year ahead.
Pair of green bayberry taper candles tied with a red ribbon
Traditional bayberry candles are made from the waxy coating of mature northern bayberry berries. Credit: JoanneStrell
  • It takes about 15 pounds of bayberries to produce just 1 pound of wax. Many people mix bayberry wax with beeswax at a 1:1 ratio to extend their supply.
  • Bayberries are sometimes called “candleberry,” a nod to their long association with wax-making.
  • Historically, bayberry shrubs were valued not only for their fragrance but also for their ability to stabilize sandy soils and enrich poor ground as a nitrogen-fixing plant.
  • Crush a leaf between your fingers, and you’ll understand why bayberry remains a favorite in native plant gardens — its clean, resinous scent lingers long after you walk past.

Shrubs and Trees
About The Author
Lauren Landers

Lauren Landers

Master Gardener and Contributing Writer

Lauren is a gardener, writer, and public speaker with over a decade of experience helping others learn about gardening, homesteading, and sustainable living.She combines years of practical gardening a...
Read More from Lauren Landers

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