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Cordyline: The Complete Guide to Growing and Care Tips

Cordyline fruticosa commonly called ti plant, palm lily, cabbage palm, good luck plant, Convallaria fruticosa L., Asparagus terminalis L., Cordyline terminalis or andong (indonesian)
Photo Credit
Mang Kelin
Botanical Name
Cordyline spp.
Plant Type
Houseplant
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Part Sun
Soil pH
Neutral
Hardiness Zone
9
10
11

Growing Cordyline: Watering, Lighting, Propagation, and Pests

Jennifer Keating
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Cordyline, with its dramatic, sword-like foliage and vibrant colors, is a showstopper that has captured the hearts of gardeners worldwide. 

This plant boasts a rich history, from the mythical allure of the Ti plant, which is believed to ward off evil spirits, to the practical use of its leaves as a cabbage substitute. 

With a diverse range of species and cultivars, cordylines offer endless possibilities for adding tropical flair to your garden or home. Whether you’re dreaming of a towering outdoor specimen or a compact houseplant, this versatile plant is sure to make a statement.

Cordyline fruticosa plant with bright pink and purple leaves amongst green foliage.
Cordyline fruticosa. Credit: Witsawat. S, Shutterstock

About Cordyline

As the King of Tropical Foliage plant, cordyline brings majestic, exotic flair to almost any setting. With spiky, sometimes daggerlike, foliage, cordylines present distinctly different profiles; many landscape designers call them architectural plants. 

Among the 15 species and many more varieties, the plants have distinctive leaf shapes, sizes, and colors: foliage shades range from pink, red, purple, and green to orange and white, often in combinations. 

The most common species among home gardeners is Cordyline fruticosa, which in temperate zones typically winters indoors as a houseplant and summers on a porch, patio, or poolside. 

Cordylines are members of the Asparagaceae family and cousins to agave. Many cordylines produce flowers followed by berries; container plants outdoors seldom bloom, but houseplants may.

Cordyline is a broadleaf perennial winter-hardy in Zones 9 to 11; plants are treated as annuals or houseplants, or overwintered indoors elsewhere.

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Planting

Where to Plant

These plants enjoy warmth and shelter, so make sure you choose a sheltered spot in your garden. Their long sword-like leaves can tear if they’re exposed to strong winds.

If you want to keep this species outdoors year-round, you’ll need to live in a tropical or subtropical climate with warm, frost-free areas. 

Most varieties need bright, full sun which enhances their vivid colors, however, if you live in a particularly hot area, they would benefit from partial shade to prevent leaf scorch. 

All species need well-draining soil with a neutral pH (between 6.0 and 7.0), the exact type of soil will depend on the variety. 

For example, C. fruticosa needs a rich, well-draining, peaty potting mix (a blend of fine and coarse material, with 30% to 50% organic matter) with a pH of 6.0 to 6.5. 

C. australis is less particular, but a potting mix amended with compost is preferable for it. 

Propagating Cordyline

Cordyline can be grown by taking cuttings, or from seed. 

Growing these plants from seed requires patience and lots of attention, and it will take years for a seed to develop into a sizeable plant, but it can be a rewarding endeavor. 

The most popular method for planting cordyline plants is to take a cutting from a mature plant. 

Cordyline can be propagated from cuttings (aka “Ti logs”) by using the following steps:

  1. Cut a 3- to 5-inch piece from a leafy head and remove all foliage. (Cut the top of the stem at a slight angle to indicate which end should be up.) 
  2. Dip the bottom end in rooting hormone. 
  3. Prepare a mix of sand and peat moss or perlite and dampen it. 
  4. Insert the stem into the mix.

Alternatively, a cutting can also be placed in water to a depth of about one-third of its length. 

Place the cutting in a room with a temperature of at least 60°F where it will receive bright but indirect sunlight, and maintain its dampness. 

Shoots will appear in 4 to 8 weeks (or longer, depending on conditions)—plant when the cuttings have four to six leaves.

How to Plant

Once you’ve chosen the species you’d like, dependent on your personal preferences and the climate you live in, you can get ready to plant it. 

Dig a hole twice as wide and slightly deeper than the root ball, and then add compost and fertilizer to the soil. 

Place the rootball in the hole, making sure the top is level with the ground, and fill the hole. Keep it moist until it’s fully established, but don’t overwater.

Cordyline Plants in Containers

Cordyline grows brilliantly in containers, and this is a great option for those areas where the plant will need to be brought indoors over winter. 

Cordyline in a container requires a generous base (it develops a taproot), so choose a tall pot with a width of at least 6 inches greater than that of the root ball; go larger if other plants will be grown with the cordyline.

Growing

Young cabbage tree (Cordyline Australis, Torbay palm) plant, cultivar Torbay dazzler, with long green leaves in background of the same plants with striped variegated leaves. Natural foliate background
Cordyline Plant (Young Cabbage Tree). Credit: Burning Bright, Shutterstock

How to Care for Cordyline

Light: For the best color, place multicolor cordylines in dappled light; protect them from direct sun, which can burn their leaves. Green-leaf plants do best in direct sun.

Water: Water regularly; cordylines like consistently moist soil but not “wet feet” (standing water) from spring to fall. C. fruticosa grown as a houseplant requires watering when the surface of the soil feels dry; provide enough water to cause it to flow out of the container.

Fertilize: Fertilize in spring, if desired, with a granular, slow-release formula or apply a balanced liquid formula at half-strength weekly. Avoid fertilizing in winter.

Pruning

A healthy plant should have stems of varying heights and depending on the variety, are usually up to 3 to 4 feet. 

If the stem becomes leggy and/or the foliage unattractive, in late winter, remove the foliage top, leaving 1 foot of bare stem. New growth will emerge.

Overwintering

Overwinter cordyline in a bright, sunny spot in a home or greenhouse at 60°F or higher. Reduce watering and provide humidity indoors. Consider placing the plant in a bathroom, setting it on a bed of wet pebbles, and/or misting the foliage.

Yellow foliage could indicate overwatering, too much sunlight, and/or drafts. To address, reduce watering and/or move the plant out of direct sunlight and away from drafts.

Types

Stunning C. fruticosa. Credit: Chris F, Pexels
  • Cordyline banksii ‘Sprilecpink’, aka Electric Pink: hardy in Zones 9 to 11; 4 to 8 feet tall; dark maroon spikes with brilliant pink edges
  • C. fruticosa ‘Exotica’: hardy in Zones 10 to 12; 3 to 5 feet tall; variegated green, cream, and pink green leaves
  • C. fruticosa ‘Red Sister’: hardy in Zones 9 to 12; up to 6 feet tall; foliage emerges bright pink before gradually darkening to cherry red with burgundy variegation
  • C. fruticosa ‘Singapore Twist’: hardy in Zones 9 to 11; up to 8 feet tall; green leaves with burgundy undersides and bright pink stems in fan form
  • C. australis ‘New Zealand Cabbage Tree: hardy in Zones 9 to 11; grows from 6 to 30 feet tall; broadleaf ever-green leaves in a variety of colors.
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Wit and Wisdom

  • The name “cordyline” comes from the Greek kordyle, meaning “club,” which describes the appearance of the plant’s root system. This led to another common name, the club palm.
  • Do not confuse cordyline with dracaena. The plants may look alike, but they differ at the root: Cordyline roots are white, while dracaena roots are orange.
  • According to the University of Hawaii, Kapi‘olani Community College, “There is a legend that states that if there is a suspicion of a shark or supernatural creature in the water, you can place a Ti leaf in it to determine if it is safe. If the Ti leaf sinks, it is dangerous and if it floats, it is safe to enter.”
  • Legend has it that Cordyline australis was given one of its common names, cabbage tree, by British naval explorer James Cook while visiting New Zealand (the plant’s native habitat) because he found its edible foliage to be a suitable substitute for that vegetable. 
  • Its cousin, C. fruticosa (formerly C. terminalis), aka the good luck plant or Ti plant, charmed early Polynesians into thinking that it had magical powers and that its presence could protect members of a household from evil spirits. 

Pests/Diseases

Cordyline are pretty resistant to most pests and diseases, but can sometimes suffer with root rot and mealybugs. 

Root rot occurs when you overwater these plants. They like to be kept moist, but not soggy! Watch out for drooping or yellow leaves - this will be your first sign that you’re overwatering. 

Mealybugs are pests that cause yellow and distorted leaves. You’ll find them under leaves and near stems. Telltale signs include finding sooty mold which they secrete after sucking the sap from the plant. To remove, isolate the plant and treat it with soapy water, neem oil, or insecticidal soap. 

Other diseases and pests to watch out for include:

Diseases: bacterial leaf spot, fungal leaf spot, Fusarium root rot. 

Pests: fungus gnats, scale insects, spider mites, thrips.

Other Common Problems

Brown-tip foliage indoors could indicate under or overwatering, root rot (which can be fatal), excess fertilizer, too-dry air, or fluoride in the water. If the latter is suspected, use bottled and/or distilled water or rainwater.

Sometimes cordyline can grow much bigger than you want them to. This problem is easily solved, simply cut them down at the height you want them to be. 

C. australis ‘Red Star’. Credit: Emilio Sánchez Hernández

Summary

To summarize, cordyline is a versatile and vibrant plant that thrives in the right conditions. 

Ensure they have the correct soil amendments, light and water requirements, and protection from frost and strong winds and you’ll be rewarded with striking foliage for your outdoor or indoor space. 

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About The Author

Jennifer Keating

Jennifer is the Digital Editor at The Old Farmer’s Almanac. She is an active equestrian and spends much of her free time at the barn. When she’s not riding, she loves caring for her collection of house plants, baking, and playing in her gardens. Read More from Jennifer Keating
 

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