Cordyline, with its dramatic, sword-like foliage and vibrant colors, is a showstopper that has captured the hearts of gardeners worldwide. From the mythical allure of the Ti plant, believed to ward off evil spirits, to the practical use of its leaves as a cabbage substitute, this genus boasts a rich history. With a diverse range of species and cultivars, cordylines offer endless possibilities for adding tropical flair to your garden or home. Whether you’re dreaming of a towering outdoor specimen or a compact houseplant, this versatile plant is sure to make a statement.
About Cordyline
Legend has it that Cordyline australis was given one of its common names, cabbage tree, by British naval explorer James Cook while visiting New Zealand (the plant’s native habitat) because he found its edible foliage to be a suitable substitute for that vegetable. Its cousin, C. fruticosa (formerly C. terminalis), aka the good luck plant or Ti plant, charmed early Polynesians into thinking that it had magical powers and that its presence could protect members of a household from evil spirits.
As the King of Tropical Foliage plant, cordyline brings majestic, exotic flair to almost any setting. With spiky, sometimes daggerlike, foliage, cordylines present distinctly different profiles; many landscape designers call them architectural plants. Among the 15 species and many more varieties, the plants bear distinctive leaf shapes, sizes, and colors: Foliage shades range from pink, red, purple, and green to orange and white, often in combinations.
The most common species among home gardeners is C. fruticosa, which in temperate zones typically winters indoors as a houseplant and summers on a porch, patio, or poolside. C. australis—aka (New Zealand) cabbage palm—is not as easy to own, being capable of maturing into a multi-trunk tree form standing 25 or more feet tall. If there is space and a means to overwinter it indoors, it can be grown in a container.
Cordylines are members of the Asparagaceae family and cousins to agave. Many cordylines produce flowers followed by berries; container plants outdoors seldom bloom, but houseplants may.
Cordyline is a broadleaf perennial winter-hardy in Zones 9 to 11; plants are treated as annuals or houseplants or overwintered indoors elsewhere.
Cordyline can be propagated from cuttings (aka “Ti logs”): Cut a 3- to 5-inch piece from a leafy head and remove all foliage. (Cut the top of the stem at a slight angle to indicate which end should be up.) Dip the bottom end in rooting hormone. Prepare a mix of sand and peat moss or perlite, dampen it, and insert the stem into it.
A cutting can also be placed in water to a depth of about one-third of its length. Place the cutting in a room with a temperature of at least 60°F where it will receive bright but indirect sunlight. Maintain its dampness. Shoots will appear in 4 to 8 weeks (or longer, depending on conditions)—plant when cuttings have four to six leaves. Learn more about propagating houseplants.
Cordyline Soil Needs
Provide C. fruticosa with a rich, well-draining, peaty potting mix (a blend of fine and coarse material, with 30% to 50% organic matter) with a pH of 6.0 to 6.5. C. australis is less particular, but a potting mix amended with compost is preferable for it. Consider making your own potting mix!
Cordyline Plants in Containers
Cordyline in a container requires a generous base (it develops a taproot), so choose a tall pot whose width is at least 6 inches greater than that of the root ball; go larger if other plants will be grown with the cordyline.
Growing
For best color, place multicolor cordylines in dappled light; protect them from direct sun, which can burn their leaves. Green-leaf plants do best in direct sun.
Water regularly; cordylines like consistently moist soil but not “wet feet” (standing water) from spring to fall. C. fruticosa grown as a houseplant requires watering when the surface of the soil feels dry; provide enough water to cause it to flow out of the container.
Fertilize in spring, if desired, with a granular, slow-release formula or apply a balanced liquid formula at half strength weekly. Avoid fertilizing in winter.
Overwinter cordyline in a bright, sunny spot in a home or greenhouse at 60°F or higher. Reduce watering in winter. Provide humidity indoors. Consider placing the plant in a bathroom, setting it on a bed of wet pebbles, and/or misting the foliage.
If the stem becomes leggy and/or the foliage unattractive, in late winter, remove the foliage top, leaving 1 foot of bare stem. New growth will emerge.
Brown-tip foliage indoors could indicate under or overwatering, root rot (which can be fatal), excess fertilizer, too-dry air, or fluoride in the water. If the latter is suspected, use bottled and/or distilled water or rainwater.
Yellow foliage could indicate overwatering, too much sunlight, and/or drafts. To address, reduce watering and/or move the plant out of direct sunlight and away from drafts.
Types
Cordyline banksii ‘Sprilecpink’, aka Electric Pink: hardy in Zones 9 to 11; 4 to 8 feet tall; dark maroon spikes with brilliant pink edges
C. fruticosa ‘Exotica’: hardy in Zones 10 to 12; 3 to 5 feet tall; variegated green, cream, and pink green leaves
C. fruticosa ‘Red Sister’: hardy in Zones 9 to 12; up to 6 feet tall; foliage emerges bright pink before gradually darkening to cherry red with burgundy variegation
C. fruticosa ‘Singapore Twist’: hardy in Zones 9 to 11; up to 8 feet tall; green leaves with burgundy undersides and bright pink stems in fan form
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Wit and Wisdom
The name “cordyline” comes from the Greek kordyle, meaning “club,” which describes the appearance of the plant’s root system. This led to another common name, the club palm.
Do not confuse cordyline with dracaena. The plants may look alike, but they differ at the root: Cordyline roots are white, while dracaena roots are orange.
According to the University of Hawaii, Kapi‘olani Community College, “There is a legend that states that if there is a suspicion of a shark or supernatural creature in the water, you can place a Ti leaf in it to determine if it is safe. If the Ti leaf sinks, it is dangerous and if it floats, it is safe to enter.”
Jennifer is the Digital Editor at The Old Farmer’s Almanac. She is an active equestrian and spends much of her free time at the barn. When she’s not riding, she loves caring for her collection of house plants, baking, and playing in her gardens. Read More from Jennifer Keating