Here are some plants with “a-peel”! Over 50 different species of bananas are available, some ornamental and some producing edible fruit.
Growing banana plants is a rewarding journey that can transform your garden into a tropical paradise, and guess what? It’s easier than you might have thought to grow these lush plants.
Whether you are a seasoned gardener or a beginner, cultivating banana plants can be a fun way to add a striking plant to your garden, with the added benefit of growing delicious fruits.
By the time you’ve finished reading this guide, you’ll know everything you need to know to get started growing your own fruiting plant, from preparing the soil to deciding where to plant and all the best tips on knowing when it’s the right time to harvest your bananas.
What Exactly is A Banana Plant?
While it is often called a banana tree, it is not actually a tree. The stem on which bananas grow is not wooden and trunk-like like trees; instead, it is actually a huge herb plant with a pseudostem rather than a trunk.
The fleshy stalk grows upright, towering up to 30 feet tall depending on the species, and large, vibrant green leaves shoot crown the top of the stalk. These broad oblong leaves can grow up to 9 feet long and 2 feet wide and can often have streaks of red or purple.
Sat atop the leaves at the peak of the plant is a large flower stalk that develops into clusters of bananas as it matures. A single banana tree can grow up to 200 bananas in its lifetime.
Aside from its benefits of growing fruit, the banana tree is also amazing at purifying and improving air quality and providing plenty of shade with its broad leaves. Their fibers can even be used to make paper, rope, and other textiles - it really is a plant with incredible versatility!
With proper care and attention, banana plants can add beauty and bounty to your outdoor space. Let’s examine exactly what you need to do to start your banana-growing adventure.
Native to Southeast Asia, these plants are now cultivated worldwide, and you’d be surprised by how many places you can grow bananas in. Banana plants can also be grown in containers. With luxurious foliage, an elegant profile, and a larger-than-life impact, a banana plant in a container lends a tropical air to any setting—a pool, patio, pond, or property.
These plants grow well in USDA hardiness zones 9 to 11. A few varieties, such as the Basjoo Banana, can be grown in cooler climates as long as they have winter protection.
If you’re planting outdoors, make sure you choose a spot in full sun to partial shade. The spot should be sheltered from strong winds, and you’ll need to make sure there is enough space for the height and width of the tree. All species grow to different sizes, but as a general guide, they can grow between 10 to 30 feet tall and 6 to 10 feet wide. Dwarf species obviously grow much smaller, and it might be better if you have a small outdoor space. Choose a spot with well-drained, fertile soil.
Bananas also make great houseplants as long as they get plenty of light. If you decide to grow your bananas in a container, think big, and then think bigger. While a banana plant may be started in a 1-gallon pot, a mature one may do best in a 15- to 25-gallon container.
When to Plant
Avoid exposing the plant to temperatures below 60°F, as growth will stop at 50°F, and the threat of injury will increase.
Wait until temperatures are consistently above 60°F. This is typically 3 to 4 weeks after the last frost. The soil has had a chance to warm, and the roots will establish and grow better during the warmer months.
How to Plant
The easiest way to grow banana plants is from a shop-bought plant or pup (banana sucker).
Choose the right location (see our tips above for this one!)
Prepare the soil: Enrich your planting area with organic compost and ensure good drainage to prevent waterlogging.
Dig a hole around 1.5 feet deep and wide to allow plenty of space for the roots.
Place your banana tree in the hole and make sure the roots are spread out.
Cover with soil and leave the base of the pseudostem just above ground level, gently pat the soil.
Water thoroughly so it is moist but not soggy.
Leave around 10 to 15 feet between each plant (less if you’re growing smaller varieties).
Growing
Banana Plant Care Requirements
Light: Provide full sun, but be prepared to provide partial shade or filtered sun in the heat of the day. Protect the foliage from winds that may lead to leaf damage.
Water: Water 2 to 3 times a week, 1 to 2 inches per week or more. Keep soil consistently moist but not saturated; do not allow it to dry out. Persistent drought will cause leaf burn. You can also mulch around the base of the plant to help it retain moisture. You’ll need to water more than this in particularly hot weather.
Fertilizing: Fertilize every 4 to 6 weeks with a balanced, slow-release formula. Bananas are heavy feeders, so this is a must! You can also supplement with occasionally adding compost and organic matter.
Soil: These plants love rich soil with great drainage. The pH should be slightly acidic, between 5.0 and 6.5.
Pruning
Before the banana plant fruits, prune the stem so that there is only one main stem. Remove all the suckers save for one at the base of the stem, which will become the new plant once this one has finished fruiting.
When you’ve harvested the bananas, chop the whole stem dow,n leaving around 2.5 feet and the replacement sucker (pup) attached.
Propagating
Banana trees are pretty simple to propagate, the best way to do this is by division. The first step is to select a healthy sucker, one that is around 12 inches tall and has its own roots.
Water the mother plant to ensure the surrounding soil is softened and then dig around the base of the sucker to expose the rhizome. Use a sharp knife or spade to cut the sucker away from the main plant, and makes sure you get some of the roots. Gently lift the sucker out and replant.
Overwintering
If you’re overwintering potted plants, prepare to bring them inside before the first fall frost. Place them in a large, sunny room and then reduce their water and fertilization or else cut off the potted plant’s foliage before storing it in a cool, dark, frost-free area (for ease in handling, the plant can also be cut back close to the soil).
Provide it with occasional light watering. If the plant and container are too large to move, trim off the foliage, remove the plant, wrap the roots in plastic, and store in the basement or garage as above—but avoid watering.
Types
Banana plants come in a wide variety of types and sizes, some producing edible fruits and others ornamental. Each type requires different conditions to thrive, so make sure you choose your plant based on the species requirements below.
Ensete ventricosum ‘Maurelii’, aka red/Abyssinian/wild banana: a fast-growing ornamental plant, similar to those in the Musa genus; winter-hardy in Zones 10 and 11, overwinter indoors elsewhere; grows 8 to 10 feet tall in temperate regions, with maroon-red tints on paddle-like foliage and leaf axils; white flowers, usually after 3 to 5 years (although not on those cut close to the soil for overwintering); fruit is inedible
Musa acuminata ‘Dwarf Cavendish’, aka Chinese/ladyfinger banana: winter-hardy in Zones 9 to 11, overwinter indoors elsewhere; grows 4 to 8 feet tall, with paddle-shape green leaves; cream to yellow flowers, usually in year 2 or 3 (although not on those cut close to the soil for overwintering); fruit is edible but seldom appears on overwintered plants
M. acuminata ‘Dwarf Orinoco’: winter-hardy in Zones 7 to 11, overwinter indoors elsewhere; grows vigorously to 5 to 6 feet tall, with large, paddle-shape foliage; pink flowers may appear on mature plants (although not on those cut close to the soil for overwintering); fruit is edible but seldom appears on overwintered plants
M. basjoo, aka Japanese (fiber) banana: an ornamental plant; winter- hardy in Zones 9 and 10, overwinter indoors elsewhere; grows 6 to 14 feet tall, with paddle-shape green leaves up to 6 feet long and 2 feet wide; cream-to-yellow flowers may appear on mature plants (although not on those cut close to the soil for overwintering); fruit is inedible
M. ‘Siam Ruby’: an ornamental plant; winter-hardy in Zones 9 to 11, overwinter indoors elsewhere; compact habit, grows up to 8 feet tall; foliage and pseudostems are dark maroon red, with spots/streaks of chartreuse; provide full sun for deepest red color; plant may produce tubular, cream-color flowers, although seldomly; fruit is inedible
M. velutina, aka pink/hairy banana: winter-hardy in Zones 7b to 11, overwinter indoors elsewhere; grows 4 to 6 feet tall, with paddle-shape, dark green foliage; cream/yellow/pink flowers may appear (although not on those cut close to the soil for overwintering); peels are pink; the flesh is white and edible but heavily seeded
Musella lasiocarpa, aka Chinese dwarf/golden lotus banana: an ornamental plant; winter-hardy in Zones 7 to 10, overwinter indoors elsewhere; grows 3 to 6 feet tall, with 1- to 4-foot-long, gray-green leaves; prized for its yellow flowers (usually in its second year, then annually); fruit that follows the inflorescence (especially in warm zones) is inedible
Harvesting
When to Harvest
Choosing the right time to harvest your bananas is essential to you being able to enjoy the fruit at its peak! As the bananas are growing, they’ll be quite angular. As they round and their color starts to lighten, you’ll know they’re ready to pick! As a general rule, a bunch of bananas usually take 75-80 days to mature after the flower appears.
If you’ve only ever seen shop-bought bananas, you might be expecting them to be yellow. However, you should pick them while they are still slightly green. A few more great signs include:
plump and rounded fruits.
flower remnants at the tip of the banana are dry and can easily be brushed off.
change in color from dark green to greenish-yellow.
How to Harvest
Now you know exactly when to harvest your fruit, how should you do it?
Wear gloves for protection and use a sharp knife to cut each hand (bunch) off the stem. Leave around 6-9 inches of stalk on the hand.
Once all the bananas have been removed, cut down the stem to allow new growth from the base of the plant.
Our last piece of advice is to wear old clothes! The sap from the plant can permanently stain clothes.
Hang your newly harvested bananas up in a cool and dry place to give them time to ripen evenly. If you want to speed up the process, place them in a paper bag with another ripe banana or an apple.
Gardening Products
Wit and Wisdom
A banana plant is a large herb that rises on a pseudostem, a thick cylinder of overlapping, tightly packed leaf sheaths that rise from its fibrous root system. It is not a tree, with a stem or trunk.
When the pink bananas of Musa velutina are ripe, their peels will open by themselves to reveal the white flesh inside.
Banana plants are susceptible to various pests and diseases, so you must monitor them closely to prevent and treat problems quickly.
Banana plantations tend to use commercial fungicides and pesticides to prevent pests and diseases. Here are a few pests that tend to have an affinity for banana plants:
Outdoor plants are also susceptible to banana weevils and root-knot nematodes. Banana weevils are one of the most notorious pests for these plants; they can cause significant damage, weaken plants, and reduce fruit production. Look out for jelly-like sap and remove any infested plants as soon as you spot signs. Other ways to get rid of these pests include using a pseudostem to attract and trap weevils or using natural predators such as ants.
Diseases to be on the lookout for include:
Panama disease - a fungal infection that causes yellowing and wilting leaves.
Southern bacterial wilt (aka “Moko disease”) affects fruit, leaves, and the plant’s vascular system.
Viruses (including cucumber mosaic virus) - can stunt growth and cause deformed leaves.
Cooking Notes
There are so many ways to cook with bananas, a few of our favorites include:
Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana. Read More from Catherine Boeckmann