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How to Grow Celery: The Complete Guide

Photo Credit
Alfredo Maiquez/Shutterstock
Botanical Name
Apium graveolens
Plant Type
Vegetable
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Part Sun
Soil pH
Neutral

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Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Celery

Catherine Boeckmann
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Grow your own celery, and you could be harvesting delectable stems from summer right through until the first frost. Garden-grown celery is much more tender and flavorful than the commercial types and less chemically laden. Learn more about how to plant, grow, and harvest celery plants.

About Celery

Celery needs a long, relatively cool growing season to grow nice and tall 12- to 18-inch stalks, requiring up to 140 days to come to harvest; however, some short-season varieties are available. In cooler regions, it does best planted in the early spring. In warmer areas, plan to plant in mid- to later summer.

Although celery has a reputation for being fussy to grow at home, celery always has a place in our gardens because it’s so useful in the kitchen—for stews, stir-fries, soups, and salads. Celery is considered a hardy biennial, but it’s typically grown as an annual. It’s best to start celery from seed indoors (transplants are hard to find and do not always succeed), and the plant is prone to bolting in cold weather, so it requires a little extra care, but you can succeed armed with this knowledge!

There are two main types of celery available:

  1. Trenching celery needs soil mounded up against the stems as they grow to produce crisp, pale stems. To make this easier, trenching celery is typically planted into trenches, hence the name, but some gardeners aid this blanching process using cardboard tubes, pipes, or collars.
  2. Self-blanching celery requires none of these extra steps. This makes it much easier to grow, and the stems are just as tasty!

Enjoy our video all about growing celery, and then follow the planting, growing, and harvesting instructions below.

Read Next

Planting

Select a planting site that receives full sun (at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day). Celery needs nutrient-rich soil. Loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches with a garden fork or tiller, then mix 2 to 4 inches of aged manure and/or compost into the soil, or work in some 5-10-10 fertilizer. Celery prefers soil with a pH between 5.8 and 6.8. Get a soil test if you’re not sure of your soil pH.

It’s important for celery to grow in moisture-retentive soil that doesn’t drain too quickly. Wild celery grows in boggy ground, so you’ll need to ensure consistent moisture for this thirsty vegetable, while a sunny spot should ensure good, even growth.

When to Plant Celery

  • Due to its need for a long growing season, it’s best to start celery seed indoors. 
    • For a spring crop, start seeds 10 to 12 weeks before your last spring frost date.
    • For a fall crop, start seeds in time to transplant seedlings 10 to 12 weeks before the first fall frost date.

How to Plant Celery

Starting Seeds

  • Before sowing, soak seeds in warm water overnight. This will speed germination. The seeds are tiny, so handle them with care and a keen eye!
  • Fill seed flats or pots with good-quality seed starting mix, then gently firm it level.
  • Press soaked seeds into seed-starting soil; to get good germination, do not cover with soil. The easiest way to sow the seeds is to carefully tap the packet above the surface of the potting mix and watch carefully as the seeds fall. Ideally, you want them to fall about an inch apart. Once you’re done, firm the seeds into place.
  • Cover starter trays/pots with plastic wrap to retain moisture. Germination should occur in about a week, but it can take up to three weeks; be patient.
  • Soon after seedlings appear, place a fluorescent grow light 3 inches above them for 16 hours a day (plants need dark hours, too).
  • Maintain an ambient temperature of 70° to 75°F (21° to 24°C) during the day and 60° to 65°F (15° to 18°C) at night. 
  • Mist regularly.
  • When seedlings are 2 inches tall, transplant them to individual peat pots or to deeper flats with new potting soil. In flats, set the plants at least 2 inches apart.
  • Harden off seedlings before transplanting by reducing water slightly and putting them outdoors (in a sheltered spot protected from the sun) for a couple of hours each day.

Transplanting Outdoors

  • Plant celery outdoors when the soil temperature reaches at least 50°F (10°C) and nighttime temperatures don’t dip down below 40°F (4°C). (Cold weather after planting can cause bolting.)
  • Plant seedlings 8 to 10 inches apart.
  • Water thoroughly. 

Growing

To grow well, celery has three critical needs:

  1. Cool weather; celery won’t tolerate high temperatures.
  2. Constant water; stalks will be small, stringy, tough, and/or hollow if it goes without water.
  3. Soil that’s rich in organic matter and—because its roots are shallow (just a few inches deep)—fertilizer applied on top of the soil.
  • Make sure to provide plenty of water during the entire growing season, especially during hot, dry weather.
  • Use row covers for the first 4 to 5 weeks in order to protect from pests.
  • When plants are 6 inches tall, mulch around them to keep the soil moist and roots cool.
  • Side-dress with compost. Comfrey pellets are great, as are coffee grounds, tickled into the soil between plants. 
  • In the second and third months of growth, side-dress with 1 tablespoon of a 5-10-10 fertilizer 3 to 4 inches from each plant.
  • Keep celery weed-free, but be careful when weeding, as celery has shallow roots that could easily get disturbed.
  • Tie growing celery stalks together to keep them from sprawling.
  • Start earthing up trenching varieties once the stems reach about a foot tall, banking the soil up by about three inches (8cm) each time until you can hill up no more.
  • Blanch (wrap or cover) stalks to eliminate any bitter taste and produce pale green stalks. Use anything that will keep out light: brown bag paper or cardboard (secure with old nylon stockings, string, vegetable wires), half-gallon milk cartons (cut-out tops and bottoms), or the like. Do not cover the celery’s leaves.

celery-shutterstock_262679072_full_width.jpgImage: Garden celery. Photo credit: Yuris/Shutterstock.

Types

  • ‘Afina’ produces tall, slender stalks (up to 30 inches in height) and is a dark green, hardy, quick-growing variety (60 days to maturity).
  • ‘Conquistador’ is tolerant of higher temps, water shortages, and average soil fertility.
  • ‘Golden Self Blanching’ is an heirloom dwarf with stringless stalks. It’s a good choice for smaller gardens.
  • ‘Utah 52-70R Improved’ is good for gardeners with limited space. It will only reach 18 inches tall and is disease resistant.

Harvesting

  • Harvest celery from summer and through the autumn until the first hard frosts stop growth. As a biennial, celery may overwinter in milder climates, producing occasional stems throughout the coldest months and picking up again in spring before finally stretching to flower.
  • You can harvest plants whole, but cutting or picking individual stems as required will keep plants producing over a longer period.
  • The parts of celery that are harvested are mainly the stalks, which will be above ground.
  • Pick the stalks whenever you want. Young celery is as good as the mature product.
  • Harvest stalks from the outside in. You may begin harvesting when stalks are about 8 inches tall.
  • Celery can be kept in the garden for up to a month if the soil is built up around it to maintain an ideal temperature. Celery will tolerate a light frost, but not consecutive frosts.
  • Tip: The darker the stalks become, the more nutrients they will contain. Texture changes with color; dark green stalks will be tougher.

How to Store Celery

  • Keep celery in a plastic bag in the refrigerator. Celery stores really well; you can keep it for many weeks with no trouble. 
  • Celery stalks can be frozen. Cut the stalks into half-inch pieces and store them in freezer-grade bags.
Gardening Products

Wit and Wisdom

  • Keep in mind that grocery store celery is lighter in color and bigger than homegrown celery because the commercial varieties are grown in greenhouses and/or protected from the sun; they may carry a lot of pesticides, too. 
  • Nibbling on celery after a meal helps to clean your teeth and mouth.
  • To crisp limp celery, soak it in cold water with a few slices of potato.
  • The ancient Romans believed that celery had healing powers, especially when it came to headaches. It’s also been thought to cure a hangover, toothache, or arthritis, and serve as an aphrodisiac.
  • Bland or boring? You may be delighted to discover that celery has many benefits. See why celery is heathy and happening.

Pests/Diseases

Celery is relatively trouble-free. To control pests early on, cover the plants with garden fabric (row covers) during the first four to six weeks of the growing season

Celery Pests and Diseases
Pest/DiseaseTypeSymptomsControl/Prevention
Carrot rust fliesInsectWilted/stunted plants; tunnels with rust-color excrement in roots of carrot-family crops; root rotMonitor adults with yellow sticky traps; use row covers; add native plants to invite beneficial insects; destroy crop residue; rotate crops
Cucumber mosaic virusVirusVaries, but may include stunting, mottled green/yellow/white pattern or ringed spots on leaves; distorted leaf growthDestroy infected plants; choose resistant varieties and certified virus-free seed; use row covers; disinfect tools; weed; control aphids (virus carriers); use mulch
EarwigsInsectMany small holes in leaves/stalksTrap in tuna can filled with 1/2 inch of fish oil and sunk in soil such that edge is slightly above ground level; remove plant debris and other nearby hiding places
Flea beetlesInsectNumerous tiny holes in leaves (looks like leaves were hit by a shotgun)Use row covers; mulch heavily; add native plants to invite beneficial insects
Slugs/snailsMolluskIrregular holes in leaves; slimy secretion on plants/soil; seedlings “disappear”Handpick; avoid thick bark mulch; use copper plant collars; avoid overhead watering; lay boards on soil in evening, and in morning dispose of “hiding” pests in hot, soapy water; drown in deep container filled with 1/2 inch of beer, or sugar water and yeast, and sunk so that top edge is slightly above ground; apply 1-inch-wide strip of food-grade diatomaceous earth as barrier

Recipes

Summer Corn Chowder
Chicken-Stuffed Tomatoes
Autumn Garden Soup
Chicken Parmesan Potpie
Vegetables
About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana. Read More from Catherine Boeckmann
 

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Comments

Deb Crosby (not verified)

9 months ago

I don't plant much celery, but learned years ago the joys of cutting about 1 inch off the bottom of my store-bought organic celery bunch and sticking it in a jar of water in a sunny window. The plant is so pretty as the leaves emerge from the center and I can put it out in the garden to continue growing once the risk of frost is over. It doesn't take long to see the leaves popping out, so it's a fun thing to do with kids too.

Joyce (not verified)

1 year 6 months ago

I transplanted what I thought was parsley. Just now as I was pruning I realized it looks like celery. And it smells like celery. Hubby says it is stringy and taste a little bitter. Looks like it is about to bolt. I tried planting some once with no success. I am guessing this was a volunteer.

millie (not verified)

2 years 5 months ago

thank you for a great video I started my celery by cutting off the bottoms of celery I bought from the store put into water and waited till they had roots now I can plant in my raised pools

Sister Penny (not verified)

2 years 5 months ago

Thank you! This was so helpful and encouraging. Someone had given us some celery plants for the Convent garden, and I was a little anxious as people say celery is a tricky crop to grow.

Carolyn Smith (not verified)

3 years 2 months ago

Thank you, I found your video very helpful and will certainly be looking for more of yours. I have grown celery for the first time this year and they are looking great. I bought seedlings from the garden store this time but after watching your video am game to try from seed next time! One question I have is regarding the "spread" of the stalks, they are quite wide now, is there something I should have done to keep the plant more compact? Thank you,

Robert Nunn (not verified)

9 months 3 weeks ago

I was just wondering what I should do should I tie it up cuz the celery has spread apart quite a ways I just wonder what I should do my celery is growing fabulous thank you for the information I appreciate it

Wayne Lowe (not verified)

3 years 5 months ago

In the body of your article a pH 5.8 to 6.8
In summary it is neutral. A pH 6.8 is close, but a pH 5.8 would be fairly tobquite acidic in the gardening context

Ethel P Dolsey (not verified)

3 years 5 months ago

My celery plant look like a tree with flowers buds on it.the starks are thin not thick . Con I eat the flowers ? Thanks for your help. My celery is very green. Should I cut the celery down low.?

SPRING KAYE (not verified)

3 years 7 months ago

my question is will the celery survive with a frost blanket to protect and possibly a plastic covering like a hoop over it in 2-5degrees C in the night ! Days are 55 + !

Well, 2° to 3° C (35.6° to 37.4°F) temps would be significantly below the recommended minimum of 40°F, so it would be a close call. But covering the plants as you describe is better than doing nothing. Try to keep the covers from touching the plants. And remember, the thicker the blanket, the less the frost damage possibility.m