Easy Step-by-Step Guide for How to Care for Orchids Indoors
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Growing
In their native habitats, orchids grow like weeds, but they are inclined to homesickness as houseplants. For the best results, provide the conditions they prefer. Some species have individual care preferences, but all need a balance of light, air, water, food, rest, and, from time to time, a new pot in order to thrive.
Lighting
- Without adequate light, expect lush growth but no flowers. Insufficient light is the most common reason for failure to bloom.
- These plants thrive in strong light, but direct sunlight can burn orchids. Bright, indirect light from an eastern or southern window is ideal.
- Leaf color is a good indicator of the amount of light an orchid is getting:
- Bright green leaves indicate a happy, healthy plant.
- Dark green leaves signal that a plant is not getting enough light.
- Yellowish-green or red leaves indicate that a plant is getting too much light.
- If you suspect that your orchid is exposed to too much light, feel the leaves. If they feel noticeably warmer than the surrounding air, move the plant to a location with less intense brightness.
Air Circulation
- Orchids must also have fresh, circulating air. In the wild, continual gentle breezes are vital for their survival.
- Air in motion helps to evaporate stagnant water, which is a breeding ground for fungi and bacteria that are trapped during watering.
- Ventilation also helps orchids to tolerate intense light that would otherwise burn the leaves.
- Open windows in the summer and use an oscillating fan in winter. Without ventilation, orchids may eventually die from rot, lack of carbon dioxide, or disease.
Watering
- In general, douse plants early in the day with tepid water once a week in winter and twice a week in warmer weather. Water until the water runs out of the pot freely; this also flushes out any naturally occurring salts.
- Do not water orchids with ice cubes! Most orchid houseplants are tropical species and will not appreciate the direct chill of an ice cube.
- To know when to water, pick up the potted orchid and examine it: Is the potting mix dry? Does the pot feel light? This means that it probably needs a drink.
- Another way to tell if an orchid needs care is to look at its roots:
- Plump white roots indicate a healthy orchid that’s being watered correctly. When watered, healthy roots should turn bright green.
- Shriveled gray roots signal that the orchid needs more water.
- Shriveled or spongy brown and black roots are a sign of rot, so cut down on watering.
- When indoor air is dry, spray orchids with tepid water to keep the humidity up. Terrestrials prefer to be kept slightly more damp than epiphytes.
Fertilizing
- As a general rule, fertilize orchids every two weeks during peak growth (spring and summer) and once a month during dormancy (fall and winter).
- Use a 30-10-10 fertilizer or orchid food, diluted to half strength.
- Approaching bloom, play it safe with a balanced fertilizer, such as 20-20-20.
- As a general rule, good orchid care includes fertilizing “weekly, weakly.”
Dormancy
- Many orchids need a period of dormancy—or rest—generally in winter. During this time, when you should reduce or stop fertilizing, plants strengthen their root systems, grow leaves, and stockpile energy for their next growth spurt and bloom. Typically, an orchid can rebloom every 8 to 12 months.
Repotting
- When an orchid spills out of its pot, the roots trail down the sides of the pot, or the growing medium is reduced to crumbs, it’s time for repotting.
- Repot at the beginning of the next growth cycle (typically in the spring).
- Do not repot while a plant is flowering, as the blooms may suffer. Enjoy the flowers, then cut off the spent flower spike with sterile snippers and repot the orchid.
- Orchids should be so snug in their pots that you can pick up the plant by its leaves and not shake out the roots.
- Orchid potting mixes are made of fine, medium, or coarse fir bark chunks, which are usually combined with perlite, peat, or sphagnum moss, and horticultural charcoal. (You can mix up your own, using four to six parts bark to one part each of the other components.)
Types
Once rare and expensive, orchids now outsell every other houseplant, surpassing even African violets, chrysanthemums, and poinsettias. The orchid family is one of the largest in the realm of flowering plants: More than 25,000 species grow naturally, on every continent except Antarctica.
There are many beautiful orchid varieties out there today. It can get overwhelming, so we have highlighted some of the most common types to get you started.
- Cattleya, the “classic orchid” (epiphytic, or air-growing): The showy “corsage orchid” has ruffled blossoms in luminous colors and a rich, heady, hint-of-vanilla scent.
- Oncidium, the “dancing lady orchid” (usually epiphytic): Easy-to-grow Oncidium bears small flowers that sway like dancing ballerinas. These fast-growing, fanciful flowers appear in every size, shape, and color that you can imagine.
- Phalaenopsis, the “moth orchid” (epiphytic): The best choice for beginners, this is easy to tend and fast-growing, producing lavish sprays of white, pink, yellow, red, spotted, or striped blossoms that last for 3 to 6 weeks.
- Cymbidium, the “buttonhole orchid” (usually terrestrial, or earth-growing): Native in many parts of Asia, cool-loving Cymbidiums are really outdoor orchids; in southern California, they’re ideal garden plants. Cymbidiums are often fragrant, especially those with green flowers.
- Paphiopedilum, the “slipper orchid” (terrestrial): Often called “Lady’s Slippers,” this orchid is great for beginners and one of the easiest orchids to grow. Slipper orchids have long-lasting blooms, flaunting outlandish flowers in sensational and mysterious hues.
- Dendrobium, the “orchid of many faces” (usually epiphytic): This light-loving plant thrives when it’s potbound, can’t stand to have wet feet, and doesn’t like to be disturbed.
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Wit and Wisdom
Many orchids produce babies! They are small plants or “keikis” that you can remove and repot to grow more orchids! See how to pot an orchid keiki.
You may occasionally see Phalaenopsis orchids with neon blue or bright orange flowers for sale in stores. Unfortunately, these flowers have been dyed, which means that the flowers will not be the same bright color if the plant blooms again. There’s nothing wrong with buying these plants, but you should know that they’ll produce only white or light pink flowers in the future.
Orchids cleverly produce flowers resembling the pollinator that they want to attract. Ophrys apifera (below) has the appearance of a female bee visiting a pink flower. Thus, it attracts the attention of male bees. When one lands on the orchid, he’s dusted with pollen, which he then spreads when he flies away.
FAQs
- How often do orchids bloom? It depends on the type of orchid. Phalaenopsis orchids will readily bloom every few months, while other types may be limited to once or twice a year.
- How long do orchid flowers last? Depending on the species, orchid flowers can last anywhere from several days to several weeks. Generally speaking, they will last longer if the orchid is kept in a cool spot, is watered sufficiently, and isn’t stressed.
- When should I cut the flower spike? As soon as the flowers wilt and begin to drop off the stem (called a “spike”), it can be cut. Prune the spike off at the base, being careful not to accidentally snip any leaves or roots as well. Phalaenopsis orchids are an exception: they will often produce more flowers from the same flower spike, so don’t be too quick to snip it once the flowers fade. In fact, leaving the flower spike on Phalaenopsis orchids can speed up the time between blooms.
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Hi KaySea,
Sorry to hear about your orchids. They certainly can be finicky. From what you described, it sounds like your orchid is going through what is known as bud blast. Bud blast occurs when either all or some buds wither and fall from an otherwise healthy plant, and may happen for a number of reasons. Sudden temperature changes, incorrect watering (either too much or too little), improper fertilization, incorrect lighting (too much direct sun or not enough), lack of humidity, or pest issues are all causes that can lead to bud blast. If you suspect one of these are the issue, you should promptly work to correct it. It might take some trial and error to get to the root of the issue.
Another idea is that depending on the last time you repotted your orchid, it might be time to give it a new home with new potting mix. Follow the instructions above and pay close attention to the potting mix used because standard potting mix is not recommended for orchids as it needs to be very light, porous, and fast-draining.
Hope this helps!
Hi Karen,
There are a number of reasons why orchid leaves will turn yellow, including too much direct light, too little light, temperature stress, and improper watering. In your case, it sounds as though your orchid is receiving too little water, which is causing the leaves to yellow and soften.
Without access to enough water, orchids can not absorb the vital nutrients it needs to stay happy and healthy. A shot glass worth of water once a week appears to be too little for its needs.
You can give your orchid a thorough watering. Hold the pot under a running faucet, using lukewarm (tepid) water, until water runs out of the drainage holes at the bottom. This will thoroughly moisten the potting medium. Then wait for the growing medium to dry before watering it again. The rule of thumb is to water once a week in winter.
It may take a few days for your orchid to perk up from its dehydrated state, so keep an eye on it and check the medium often to make sure it is not drying out too much between waterings.
Is the inner plastic pot solid plastic or does it have holes for air flow? If it's the latter, then it would be good to allow for the roots to "breath" by giving them a bit more space. Phalaenopsis orchids are epiphytes, which means that they grow on tree branches, cliff faces, logs, or other structures—anywhere that isn't directly in the dirt. This means that they prefer to have a bit of air flow around their roots. They are "aerial roots," after all! It does mean that the roots will dry out more quickly, but this is actually preferable!
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