Also receive the Almanac Daily newsletter including gardening tips, weather, astronomical events, and more.
Growing Orchid Flowers: Watering, Lighting, Repotting, and More
Growing
In their native habitats, orchids grow like weeds, but they are inclined to homesickness as houseplants. For the best results, provide the conditions they prefer. Some species have individual preferences, but all need a balance of light, air, water, food, rest, and, from time to time, a new pot in order to thrive.
Orchid Flowers
Of course, orchids are renowned for their beautiful flowers, which can seem to last forever. Orchids can be picky about blooming, however. Here are answers to a few common orchid flower questions:
- How often do orchids bloom? It depends on the type of orchid. Phalaenopsis orchids will readily bloom every few months, while other types may be limited to once or twice a year.
- How long do orchid flowers last? Depending on the species, orchid flowers can last anywhere from several days to several weeks. Generally speaking, they will last longer if the orchid is kept in a cool spot, is watered sufficiently, and isn’t stressed.
- When should I cut the flower spike? As soon as the flowers wilt and begin to drop off the stem (called a “spike”), it can be cut. Prune the spike off at the base, being careful not to accidentally snip any leaves or roots as well. Phalaenopsis orchids are an exception: they will often produce more flowers from the same flower spike, so don’t be too quick to snip it once the flowers fade. In fact, leaving the flower spike on Phalaenopsis orchids can speed up the time between blooms.
- Why won’t my orchid bloom? Your orchid is most likely not getting enough light. Read more about lighting below!
Lighting
- Without adequate light, expect lush growth but no flowers. Insufficient light is the most common reason for failure to bloom.
- These plants thrive in strong light, but direct sunlight can burn orchids. Bright, indirect light from an eastern or southern window is ideal.
- Leaf color is a good indicator of the amount of light an orchid is getting:
- Bright green leaves indicate a happy, healthy plant.
- Dark green leaves signal that a plant is not getting enough light.
- Yellowish-green or red leaves indicate that a plant is getting too much light.
- If you suspect that your orchid is exposed to too much light, feel the leaves. If they feel noticeably warmer than the surrounding air, move the plant to a location with less intense brightness.
Air Circulation
- Orchids must also have fresh, circulating air. In the wild, continual gentle breezes are vital for their survival. Air in motion helps to evaporate stagnant water, which is a breeding ground for fungi and bacteria that are trapped during watering.
- Ventilation also helps orchids to tolerate intense light that would otherwise burn the leaves. Create gentle breezes: Open windows in the summer and use an oscillating fan in winter. Without ventilation, orchids may eventually die from rot, lack of carbon dioxide, or disease.
Watering
- Experts say that more orchids are killed by incorrect watering than by any other cause. Orchids should be watered just as they dry out. Over-watering may lead to rot, which kills orchid roots.
- Do not water orchids with ice cubes! Most orchid houseplants are tropical species and will not appreciate the direct chill of an ice cube. (Consider how you would feel if someone dumped a bucket of ice on you at the beach!)
- To know when to water, pick up the potted orchid and examine it: Is the potting mix dry? Does the pot feel light? This means that it probably needs a drink.
- Another way to tell if an orchid is thirsty is to look at its roots:
- Plump white roots indicate a healthy orchid that’s being watered correctly. When watered, healthy roots should turn bright green.
- Shriveled gray roots signal that the orchid needs more water.
- Shriveled or spongy brown and black roots are a sign of rot, so cut down on watering.
- In general, douse plants early in the day with tepid water once a week in winter and twice a week in warmer weather. Water until the water runs out of the pot freely; this also flushes out any naturally occurring salts. When indoor air is dry, spray orchids with tepid water to keep the humidity up. Terrestrials prefer to be kept slightly more damp than epiphytes.
Fertilizing
- As a general rule, fertilize orchids every 2 weeks during peak growth (spring and summer) and once a month during dormancy (fall and winter). Use a 30-10-10 fertilizer or orchid food, diluted to half strength.
- Approaching bloom, play it safe with a balanced fertilizer, such as 20-20-20.
- Many experienced growers fertilize “weekly, weakly.”
Dormancy
- Many orchids need a period of dormancy—or rest—generally in winter. During this time, when you should reduce or stop fertilizing, plants strengthen their root systems, grow leaves, and stockpile energy for their next growth spurt and bloom. Typically, an orchid can rebloom every 8 to 12 months.
Types
There are many beautiful orchid varieties out there today. It can get overwhelming, so we have highlighted some of the most common types to get you started.
- Cattleya, the “classic orchid” (epiphytic, or air-growing): The showy “corsage orchid” has ruffled blossoms in luminous colors and a rich, heady, hint-of-vanilla scent. To achieve blooms, it requires 5 to 6 hours of light per day. Move it outside in the summer, and water copiously.
- Oncidium, the “dancing lady orchid” (usually epiphytic): Easy-to-grow Oncidium bears small flowers that sway like dancing ballerinas. These fast-growing, fanciful flowers appear in every size, shape, and color that you can imagine. It needs filtered light 5 to 8 hours a day.
- Phalaenopsis, the “moth orchid” (epiphytic): The best choice for beginners, this is easy to tend and fast-growing, producing lavish sprays of white, pink, yellow, red, spotted or striped blossoms that last for 3 to 6 weeks. It’s very cold sensitive and needs a lot of humidity. Feed it well.
- Cymbidium, the “buttonhole orchid” (usually terrestrial, or earth-growing): Expect intricate, arching sprays with double rows of big (3- to 5-inch) bold blossoms in colors from pastel to primary. Native in many parts of Asia, cool-loving Cymbidiums are really outdoor orchids; in southern California, they’re ideal garden plants. Cymbidiums are often fragrant, especially those with green flowers.
- Paphiopedilum, the “slipper orchid” (terrestrial): Often called “Lady’s Slippers,” this orchid is great for beginners and one of the easiest orchids to grow. Slipper orchids have long-lasting blooms, flaunting outlandish flowers in sensational and mysterious hues. They also have patterned foliage that is attractive even when not in bloom. Lady’s Slippers come in many colors and patterns.
- Dendrobium, the “orchid of many faces” (usually epiphytic): This light-loving plant thrives when it’s pot-bound, can’t stand to have wet feet, and doesn’t like to be disturbed. The flowers are most often white or purple and white. Use a small pot and repot it only every few years.
Dyed Orchids
You may occasionally see Phalaenopsis orchids with neon blue or bright orange flowers for sale in stores. Unfortunately, these flowers have been dyed, which means that the flower will not be the same bright color if the plant blooms again. There’s nothing wrong with buying these plants, but you should know that they’ll produce only white or light pink flowers in the future.
Fragrant Orchids
Some orchids have an amazing fragrance. Among the most sweet-smelling are…
- Angranthes grandalena: sweet jasmine
- Brassavola nodosa: freesia or lily-of-the-valley
- Cattleya walkeriana and hybrids: cinnamon and vanilla
- Maxillaria tenuifolia: roasted coconut
- Miltoniopsis santanaei: roses
- Neofinetia falcata: jasmine
- Oncidium ‘Sharry Baby’: vanilla and chocolate
- Phalaenopsis bellina: freesia with a touch of lemon
- Phalaenopsis violacea: spicy, cinnamon
- Rhynchostylis gigantea: powerful citrus
- Zygopetalum: hyacinth
Wit and Wisdom
Orchid Babies
Many orchids produce babies! They are small plants or “keikis” that you can remove and repot to grow more orchids! See how to pot an orchid keiki.
Did You Know?
Orchids cleverly produce flowers resembling the pollinator that they want to attract. Ophrys apifera (below) has the appearance of a female bee visiting a pink flower. Thus, it attracts the attention of male bees. When one lands on the orchid, he’s dusted with pollen, which he then spreads when he flies away.
Catherine Boeckmann
ADVERTISEMENT
My daughter give me a Phalaenopsis, I believe -store bought, for mother's day. The two bottom leaves look cracked, brown line, straight up the center, what needs to be done? Thank you in advance.
I am a first time orchid owner. It bloomed beautifully and it has seemed very healthy until recently. It is in an organic bark medium, the pot is ceramic with air holes all around and I only water it once a week with a shot glass of water. There are two new leaves growing and they seemed to be doing very well; however, the one old leaf turned yellow and fell off and just this week the other original leaf fell off. Today I looked at the two new leaves and they seem soft and limp almost like the plant is falling off it's roots. What do you recommend?
That's way too little water for any plant. When articles say a plant doesn't like to have wet feet, or that you shouldn't overwater, that's actually referring to frequency rather than amount. Each plant has its own requirements in terms of how dry the soil should be before you re-water (and if you want to keep them alive, you NEED to do research), but in almost all cases, what you want to do is thoroughly saturate the soil/planting medium every time you water. Make sure your pot has good drainage, so no standing water will remain in the bottom, and then keep watering until the pot feels heavy (I'd say "until water runs out the bottom," but that's really not an accurate measurement as sometimes, the water will run out immediately yet the soil's still dry). For mooooost plants, you don't water again until you can stick your finger down about an inch into the soil and it all feels dry. DO NOT put it on a timed schedule, because sometimes the soil stays wet longer, and sometimes it dries out faster! You really need to be hands-on in this hobby!
Summary:
1) Use pot with good drainage, and completely saturate soil.
2) Get a feel for how your pots feel when dried out vs saturated: that'll help you know if the soil has soaked up water.
3) Research your individual plant, but generally do not water again until top inch of soil is dried out. For orchid bark/moss, a clear pot works best to see if everything looks dried out.
Hi Karen,
There are a number of reasons why orchid leaves will turn yellow, including too much direct light, too little light, temperature stress, and improper watering. In your case, it sounds as though your orchid is receiving too little water, which is causing the leaves to yellow and soften.
Without access to enough water, orchids can not absorb the vital nutrients it needs to stay happy and healthy. A shot glass worth of water once a week appears to be too little for its needs.
You can give your orchid a thorough watering. Hold the pot under a running faucet, using lukewarm (tepid) water, until water runs out of the drainage holes at the bottom. This will thoroughly moisten the potting medium. Then wait for the growing medium to dry before watering it again. The rule of thumb is to water once a week in winter.
It may take a few days for your orchid to perk up from its dehydrated state, so keep an eye on it and check the medium often to make sure it is not drying out too much between waterings.
I have a new phalenopsis and the inner clear plastic pot fits very tightly inside the decorative outer pot. Should there be more room between the 2 pots to let air circulate around the roots or will more room cause the plant to dry out?
Is the inner plastic pot solid plastic or does it have holes for air flow? If it’s the latter, then it would be good to allow for the roots to “breath” by giving them a bit more space. Phalaenopsis orchids are epiphytes, which means that they grow on tree branches, cliff faces, logs, or other structures—anywhere that isn’t directly in the dirt. This means that they prefer to have a bit of air flow around their roots. They are “aerial roots,” after all! It does mean that the roots will dry out more quickly, but this is actually preferable!
Thank you! The inner pot has slots and holes. I'll get a lager outer pot.
Hi I have a orchid and i noticed i have little black flying bugs what do i do to get rid of them Thank you
It sounds like you may be dealing with fungus gnats. They are mainly just an annoyance, as long as they aren’t present in large numbers. Read our Fungus Gnats Pest Guide for tips for dealing with them.
I have one orchid that the leaves look wrinkled, they are not smooth. What would cause this wrinkling? They are in a south/west window which gets plenty of indirect light. The other orchids are doing good. I water once a week by soaking the pots then draining off the excess. Could it be that it is not getting enough light? Thanks
