How to Grow Asparagus: A Perennial Favorite That Keeps Giving

Container asparagus is what brought me here. My brother has had a large successful bed for a few years but lives too far from me to share & I don’t have the room to have a proper bed. So far my 9 plants have all surfaced and all but one have produced ferns. I’m excited to see where this goes & hope to move to a raised bed.

Asparagus has a long root system. You can keep it ALIVE in pots but it does not grow or produce well in pots. I kept a series of 3 asparagus plants alive in 16" pots for about 2 years. They did not produce a single stalk during that time. I moved to a new house in 2020 and transplanted them into a large garden bed. They went gangbusters and began producing wonderful, bountiful, thick stalks within 2 yrs.

Courtney, hello! YES, you can grow asparagus in pots. This makes it easier to weed. Also, you can get a sense for how fast it grow and how often it produces. It is imperative that you don't let the soil get too dry. True, it won't be "as" productive if grown in the ground. But, you can just grow in several pots to make sure you have enough. Be sure not to harvest or disturb them for minimum 2-4 years so that the crowns can establish in the ground properly. If you have cats (or dogs) this may be an issue as it produces berries. The fern-like structures with little red balls on them are simply to irresistible for our furry family members. And I can tell you that fresh asparagus right out of the ground is simply delicious! No cooking is required!!! Enjoy your tiny garden!!! p.s. You can also start from seeds and get that experience as well!-Susan

Your first quote is about transplanting asparagus crowns, but the second one is about cutting back asparagus ferns. Two completely different topics.

You can pick them that short, but waiting until they're 8 to 10 inches tall will give you more "bang for your buck." Snapping them off above the soil is OK—just try not to tear the stalks as this leaves more opening for disease. 

That's unfortunate that they didn't come back this year. By now, they should have at least started to appear. Perhaps try gently digging one up to see if it's really dead—it's possible it rotted due to too much moisture or dried out due to too little. If you do discover that the crowns are dead, it will be time to start over, unfortunately.

I've been reading up on this and yes, you should be able to divide your big old asparagus. Dig gently with a fork first to see how far the roots go, and then dig a circle around that far from the plants. They are probably huge at this point, 30 years old. Loosen under them and gently pull them up, and then try to tease them apart, making a few cuts if necessary. Rinse them in water if necessary to see better. I've read that you can greatly increase your number of plants this way. If your current asparagus patch has some female plants that form red berries, you can label them with stakes now in late summer, and discard those plants when you are replanting.

Any stalks that are damaged can be pruned off!

Hello. When I planted asparagus growns I did no make a trench pr mounds! Am I in trouble? Can I dig them up and fix the situation? Just planted last night. Thanks so much for your help.

Hi Wayne,
You have some strong plants! You are correct to wait- it is best to cut back the asparagus plants once all of the foliage and stalks have turned yellow or brown. This will give you a better harvest next year. Be patient! We hope this helps.

Although they are 2nd year crowns, they will still need time to settle in and grow out their roots after planting. We would still recommend waiting 2-3 years before harvesting any significant number of shoots, just so that your plants have a good chance to get established first!

Yes, precisely! Their job is to absorb as much energy as possible during the warm part of the year.

Asparagus roots can reach as deep as six feet, so the plants have a strong foothold. But you would be wise to cover the exposed areas and the fingers, which may be the beginning of this year's harvest. A few inches of compost should be fine.

One source suggests that an old asparagus bed should not be replanted for three years. Before you try something else you might try to rejuvenate your existing plants. Asparagus is a heavy feeder; it likes and needs rich compost and aged manure, as well as proper pH (6,0 to 8.0), You might get your best results improving what you've got...of course you will now know how well it will go until next spring. But it's worth a try!

To your question, no; do not try to divide it. Roots could be 6 feet or morel long. It sounds like it's thriving with all of the amendments you  It is recommended (above) that trenches be 3 feet apart and crowns be set in them at 12 to 18 inches apart. The plants might be closer in your bed, but if they are producing, enjoy it.

Mulch. Or hand pick the weeds.

They may be future stalks; let them be. You're right; it is about time to stop picking. You could lay on some mulch and prepare to set stake poles and string around the bed (like a simple fence) so that when the ferns become top heavy they do not fall to the ground.

These are part of the plant.

You would do well to leave them. Set a long sticks or bamboo poles into the dirt on the corners and a couple/few on the sides. Run string around the poles and around the asparagus bed (not the plants) at about four feet high (or higher, there is no magic formula) to keep the ferns off the ground. This is not a fancy fence; this is a temporary (annual) sort of "framework" to support the ferns. They might lay over on the string and that's ok. When you cut the ferns later in the year, put away the poles and string for next year.

No, that would not be beneficial to the asparagus—in fact, it would likely harm the plant.

As long as it isn't entirely broken, it will still develop into a fully-fledged fern and be able to soak up the sunlight, which is the sole purpose of letting the spears develop. For now, just support it with stakes and twine as best as you can. The plant should send up more spears soon enough! If the bent one starts to look like it's rotting, then you can remove it from the plant, cutting the spear off at the soil.

I had the same thing happen but my understanding is that year 3 after planted from seed will be a sparse crop over s 2 wk period. Each future year the crop increases in volume as plants develop.

What a disappointment! Certainly 30 years is a good run, and by most estimates near the max, but it's hard to believe that all of the crowns would fail from age all at the same time. The plants could be diseased, with fulsarium wilt or a rust. Cornell U is a reliable source of info on this; scroll or search this site for specifics re diseases: http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/factsheets/Asp... You could also inquire of Cornell's Plant Diagnostic Clinic http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/contactus.html or consult the folks at the cooperative ext nearest you: https://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-ser...

This has been a question for centuries. The belief a hundred years or so ago was that it improved production or, at least, controlled weeds. Today the thinking is that salt on an asparagus bed is not beneficial. It can form a crust that impedes was absorption and can actually harm the plants. Save the salt for the dinner table. And go lightly.

No idea.  Where did you see or learn of this?

The rule of thumb is to cut back the ferns when they turn brown. If this is new growth, it may not get to the fern, then brown stage in the remaining few weeks of the season. Our best bet would be to wait until a hard frost then cut it back to about 6 inches.

Asparagus is vulnerable to a number of diseases, including rust, fulsarium wilt, and stem/crown rot. It is difficult to know which your plants might have, but excessive rainfall (or watering) on soil that does not drain well is one of the causes. At the risk of too much information, this link provide pics and info on what seems like the full panoply of possibilities, with some advice: https://www.limgroup.eu/applications/limgroup-productsite... (Note: it is a European source) If you can identify your problem, you may be able to consult a local nursery for guidance.

We have updated the page to include info on storing asparagus. Please see above!

This is a tough one. Did you properly prepare the trenches: check the soil pH, add in a heaping helping of compost and aged manure? Are the trenches getting enough water (hand or sky delivered)?  If you mulched them for the winter, have you tried moving some mulch to see if any spears are poking up? You do not say where you are; if you're in the north country, this might be normal. (Are you seeing it growing anywhere else in your area?) It would be a shame to start all over again. Before you do anything, contact your local cooperative extension and see what they have to say about it. Being in your area they know better what you can expect/need to do. Choose your state here and contact the one nearest/for you: https://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-ser...

Asparagus is fairly tolerant to a variety of soils, but does like sandy loam. If your plants look healthy, it might not be necessary to add the loam. If you do decide to try it, however, you might set the depth at 2 to 3 inches instead, to be sure not to damage any shallow roots. Or, if you have a small enough bed, gently work the loam in at that depth with a rake or shovel. As you have indicated, the plants should be dormant when you do this. Some gardeners instead add aged manure or compost in fall, along with a layer of mulch, which will gradually improve the soil structure and health. Others might work in soil amendments in early spring, before the spears appear.

As they are still too young for a full harvest, and it is past harvesting stage (when spears are about 8 inches tall, and not branching), then you should, as you have suggested, just leave them to grow. Eventually they will grow tall with ferny leaf growth--too tall for the hoop frame, but at that point, perhaps the rabbits won't be as interested in the plants. Wait until fall, after the foliage has died and browned, before cutting the ferns down to about 2 inches above the ground before winter. The leaves will help the plant make food for itself to survive over winter and grow healthy spears next year.

If you cut down the plants' ferns last fall, leave those that appear now. You should be seeing some spears any time now, too.

See the advice immediately below re fertilizer, pH, and compost to increase the size of the spears (for that matter, read the advice we give above, too).

As for the weeds, you need to pull out as many as you can and then mulch. Several inches is not too much. And "edge" the bed: Push a spade or edge into the edge of the bed to cut the weed roots there. (You'll need to do this every year.)

Some people would love to get pencil-thin spears!

Have you checked the pH? Asparagus likes lime. Everything you're doing sounds good...so it might be the pH (you can get an inexpensive kit at a nursery). Digging out the roots would be a lot more work than you might think; roots could be 4 to 6 feet or more!

Then there is this (a few questions below yours): you might want to fertilize: Scatter 2 pounds of 10-20-10 fertilizer (or its equivalent) per 20 feet of row before growth begins in the spring. After the last harvest, apply an additional 1 to 2 pounds of 21-0-0 (high in nitrogen) per 20 feet. Always water the fertilizer into the soil.

With this, your plot should come back to life.

I have had asparagus beds for decades and always pull out the 3" dried stems once the ground thaws. They *could* stay, but get in the way when harvesting new spears. Asparagus hates competition, so a thick mulch of leaves is good, but loosen up any areas where the leaves are thickly packed and might bend over the new shoots. I put piles of sandy seaweed on top each fall and find the top layer can get hard and crusty by spring, interfering with the new growth. But it's easy to pull the crusty layer aside and the rest of the seaweed is well-rotted and mushy so the asparagus can get through.

The best way to keep out weeds is to mulch. Several inches is not too much. Without it, you'll be battling weeds forever.

As for spraying, what's the point of growing food if you're going to put chemicals into the soil (in the food)? If you can get head of the weeds somewhat and mulch immediately, you'll do yourself and the plants a big favor.

And edge the plot. Put a hard line on the edge of it so that grass and weed roots can not reach in. (You'll need to do this every year.)

Do not over think your Asparagus needs. In eastern Washington it grows wild in the Apple Orchards and nobody bothers to maintain it. I can wander through a field and harvest a five gallon bucket in less than an hour.

Scatter 2 pounds of 10-20-10 fertilizer (or its equivalent) per 20 feet of row before growth begins in the spring. After the last harvest, apply an additional 1 to 2 pounds of 21-0-0 (high in nitrogen) per 20 feet. Always water the fertilizer into the soil.

We can't help you here; there are some 300 asparagus species.

Asparagus seeds are inside the red berries that form on the ferns. They are tiny: the seeds number about 19,200 per pound. You can start them in flats or peat up; it takes at least a year to grow a good crown.

Where I live it gets triple digit highs and my asparagus is in full sun doing great. Hope that helps

What color were the ferns? If they were light brown, fully dead, then it indicates that the plant is dormant, and it is fine to mow the ferns now. If they were still in the process of dying back, such as a bright yellow, then it might have been better, but not critical, to wait just a bit more, until the ferns wither and turn light brown. As I understand it, the yellow ferns, although no longer making food, still contain nutrient energy to transport to the crowns before the ferns totally die back. It's best not to cut down green ferns, as they are still making food for the plant; if yours were still green, then hopefully the plant, at this late date, has enough food to get by for the winter and start up again in spring; there might be a chance, though, that the spears next year might be weaker, until the plant can recover; if this is the case in spring, you might avoid harvesting that year, so that the plant can catch up on food-making. Hope this helps!

After the first front turns the ferns brown, cut down to about 6 inches above the soil. Weed the bed, and spread a couple to a few inches of compost or dry leaves or the like. In spring, check the soil pH, and amend as needed. Apply a well-balanced (5-10-10 or 8-24-24) fertilizer in the spring. Stalks will be thin for a couple to three years.

We salute you! This is an accomplishment. For advice on this we turned to Burpee, which advises "the asparagus seeds should be sown indoors 12 to 14 weeks before the target seedling set-out date, which should be after the danger of frost has passed. Sow seeds 1/4-inch deep using a sterile seeding mix in individual 2-inch cells. Acclimate in a cold frame for one week prior to setting out in the garden." And we recognize that does not fully answer your question. The best planting time is spring. But that is a long way off—but then, so it the deep of winter. In the weeks and months remaining, harden it off (in a cold frame or for a few hours/day) and plant it, then mulch it well. And maybe remulch it if the winter becomes severe. In spring, after the heavy weather, pull off the mulch and ... see if it survived. This is something of an experiment; all gardening is. If the seedlings do fail, do not consider it a failure. You brought them to life! Then go and get some crowns. Remember, even newly planted crowns need to have about two years before you can harvest. We can only speculate on how many years you might wait for your seedlings to provide harvestable spears. Good luck!

Some people would say this is a good problem to have, Beth! (Have you been giving it away? selling it??) The spears should grow into ferns. If you're cutting the spears, they are not reaching that stage. Let it alone until fall and then cut it down and side dress (see above). It is really, really hard to kill or otherwise lose asparagus. The ferns help the plant to make food for itself, allowing it to overwinter and produce healthy new spears the following year. Next year when it comes up, harvest the spears when they are about 6 inches tall and then let the remaining asparagus grow to the fern stage. 

Lucky you—in so many ways. The general rule of thumb is to cut dwn the ferns in the fall. The question is (not do you feel lucky; well, not really): what is more important to you: the asparagus or the peppers and lettuce. Understandably, the question puts you betw a rock and a hard place. You want the asparagus; you want the lettuce and peppers. We would advise in this case that you leave the 'grass alone and take of the lettuce and peppers what you can. The asparagus should be planted in a bed by itself for exactly this reason. The other vegetables, the annuals, rotate out and get picked out. But the asparagus is a perennial heavy feeder. It needs all the nutrients it can get; no competition. Next year, plant the annuals elsewhere. That's what we would do...

Hi Tom,

First year plants will die back late in the season, though not usually this early, but it depends on where you live. It could be over-watering, or excessive sun. At this point, don't water them any more. You'll have to wait and see if they come back next year!

Once all of the ferns have died down on their own (usually at first frost, but even without frost in areas that do not get frost), cut the ferns down to about 2 inches above the ground. Add several inches of mulch to the bed; compost or rotted manure is ideal. There is no "transplanting them elsewhere." The ferns grown from crowns that are not usually divided and have, by now (in your case, after three years) very long roots. You're growing asparagus! Enjoy it!

We have heard of using salt after the season is over to keep down weeds, but not to improve the health of the asparagus.

Hi, Janet. Yes, it sounds as though you planted your asparagus too late. It should go in the ground in early spring. We suggest you start fresh next year. 

Hi Janet, I got my asparagus planted in early June too because of numerous delays. I actually stored the crowns in my refrigerator for 5 weeks before planting. Figuring I had nothing to lose anyway, I planted the crowns at the first opportunity I had. A couple of weeks ago I was ready to yank them all out and wait until next year to try again, but lo and behold, tiny shoots had finally appeared! I was utterly amazed. Of 10 crowns I only lost one. So, if you don't want to use those beds for other plants, just be patient. I hope your plants surprise you. Best of luck! (PS: I'm in Washington, zone 8b)

Hi Pam,

That's certainly an old patch of asparagus, how do the plants look? Healthy? It's not recommended to transplant old crowns, especially as old as 20 years. They have extremely developed root systems, and the plants would most likely be shocked by the transplant and die. However, gardening is an experiment and who knows for sure what may happen! Try transplanting the smaller crowns into a well-draining, sandy soil. Usually the crowns should be planted at a depth of 6 to 8 inches, but these may like to be deeper. Try planting a few depths between 8 to 12 inches. Water them well and see what happens. Good luck!

Your ferns will be OK even if they are laying on the ground. We have heard that some people prefer to steady them with a stake, but it isn't necessary. 

 The fern stage is when the plant gathers energy for the next year. Once it dies in the fall, cut back the growth.

Hi Matt,

You can transplant the sprouting asparagus into the bed if you want to save them. Try laying tarps out around the raised beds late in the season. Pick up the tarps after the seeds have dropped and either save them or dispose of them.

After the ferns turn yellow, cut them back to 2 inches above the soil line. As to the cover--asparagus does not like to be soggy, so protection from consistently heavy rains might be good. Raised beds help with drainage, but make sure yours is draining properly. Adding compost is one way to help to improve drainage if needed. A removable hoop house cover, or similar, can be handy during especially heavy rains (at least in earlier stages of spear/fern growth--the ferns can get several feet tall). Remove the cover on sunny or especially hot days (if covered in clear plastic not row cover), or during light showers. For other ideas, you might contact your county's Cooperative Extension. Contact information can be found here:
http://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-serv...

Are your crowns relatively young? They will take 2 to 3 years to become established, and will not be as productive those first few years. Avoid harvesting during that time. When they become established, harvest some spears thicker than a pencil and about 6 inches high, for 2 to 3 weeks in spring. Then after that, allow all spears to grow into the ferns over the summer. Cut those down when they have died back in fall. The ferns help the plant to make food for itself, allowing it to overwinter and produce healthy new spears the following year. If your asparagus is several years old, and you are getting a spindly harvest, that can be due to several factors, such as over-harvesting (which weakens the plant), cutting down the ferns before fall, allowing weeds to take over the bed, or lack of fertilizer. Another factor is age; asparagus over 15 years old tends to become less productive; if that is the case, you might consider planting new crowns. Hope this helps!

Asparagus can be grown at high altitudes (there are varieties that are more cold hardy, such as 'Martha Washington' or 'Jersey Supreme')--just be sure it is protected from frost and over winter (crowns buried at a proper depth), and mulch to help to keep soil moist. Because yours are in a raised bed, I'm guessing the soil is new and has the proper nutrients and soil pH? Otherwise, test the soil for pH balance and nutrients and amend as necessary (but choose amendments that will not burn the planted crowns). Do not harvest the first year, and only very lightly if at all during the second. For other tips, you might ask your county's Cooperative Extension. Contact information can be found starting here http://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-serv...
Hope this helps!

Hi Jen,

It sounds like the asparagus has already gone into the fern stage and is past harvesting. The fern stage is when the plant gathers energy for the next year. Once it dies in the fall, cut back the growth. Next year when it comes up, harvest the spears when they are about 6 inches tall and then let the asparagus grow to the fern stage. 

How frustrating! This unfortunately does happen sometimes. When it does, remove the damaged spears as soon as possible. New spears should start growing in a few weeks. Do not harvest this year; let the ferns grow and then fade through the season. As long as the crowns were not damaged from the frost, the plant should recover. You can see how it responds this year--if the new growth looks healthy and vigorous, you should be fine for starting harvest next year. A thick layer of mulch can help protect asparagus if frosts are predicted.

should I move them to a deeper bed?

Asparagus does best with a chilling period, but there are cases where it can be grown in a tropical environment. One source says it can be done as long as there is a long enough dry season to induce dormancy. Here is an article about growing it in Hawaii, which says that it does not undergo winter dormancy, so it can be harvested several times a year. There are instructions about how to induce dormancy during the drier summer months.
https://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/oc/freepubs/pdf/HGV-9.pdf">https://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/oc/freepubs/pdf/HGV-9.pdf

Hope this helps!

When asparagus transplants are about 1 foot tall, they need to be set out in a nursery bed after the last expected spring frost date, and when the soil is warm. (To find your frost date, see: http://www.almanac.com/gardening/frostdates). Before you transplant, harden them off for a week in a protected area or cold frame. (You can also direct seed in the garden in early spring.) When the plants flower in their nursery bed, weed out the female plants. The following year, transplant the male plants to their permanent home. If grown from seed rather than crowns, add another year before you should harvest fully (3 years).
For more information, you might like this blog about planting asparagus from seed:
http://www.almanac.com/blog/gardening/gardening/planting-...
Happy gardening!

Cornell University suggests planting crowns 4 to 6 weeks before average last frost. To find your frost date, you can go to the following page and put in your zip code.
http://www.almanac.com/gardening/frostdates
If you have further questions, you might contact a local nursery or your county's Cooperative Extension. Extension contact information can be found here:
http://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-serv...
Hope this helps!

You should choose a hardy variety of asparagus. Two hardy varieties we would recommend are 'Jersey Giant' or 'Mary Washington.' Good luck!

You might ask a local nursery or gardener for best advice for your area, but I'm thinking that you might see some spears pop up in about a week or two. Sometimes emergence can be delayed due to cool weather. In Ontario in general, it looks like asparagus is available from May into June.

Hi, Meg: WHAT are we going to do with that hubby of yours?!! We're just guessing now, but perhaps it doesn't take a rocket scientist or Old Farmer to figure out that maybe he just doesn't LIKE asparagus? Your plants aren't really getting harmed by not being harvested ... think of them as just wild and free, like the Woodstock Generation of asparagus. Once they start to fern-ize, they get harder and harder, but you can go ahead and cut them back without harming anything. Then you can harvest them again as they come up, continuing to to do so until the stalks are about the diameter of a pencil. Then leave them alone so that they can build up energy for next year. It would seem that your biggest challenge will be not in dealing with your hubsparagus, but in finding a way to divert your husband's attention. Feel free to find the best days to harvest aboveground crops here: http://www.almanac.com/bestdays/calendar. Oh, and if it turns out you need to sneak out there under the cover of darkness in the middle of the night, you might want to check out when the next New Moon is going to be at: www.almanac.com/astronomy/moon/calendar/. Thanks for asking, and good luck!

If you think you can plant within 2 or 3 days or so, then it probably would be OK to wrap the crowns in a moist (but not soggy) newspaper or paper towel and place in a cool, dark place; check every so often to keep things slightly moist. It might be best not to use a plastic bag, so that air can circulate. Alternatively, some gardeners place crowns in a bucket of moist sand in a cool, dark area, such as a basement. You don't want to keep the crowns soaking in water too long, or it may invite disease. They like to be slightly moist, but not waterlogged, and not totally dry either. Hope this helps!

Asparagus is sensitive to frost, which can ruin the quality/taste of the spears. If your spears are emerging too early, you might try covering them with 8 to 12 inches of straw (not hay) or similar cold protection to insulate the spears and crown until threat of frost has passed. Good luck!

With good care and environmental conditions, asparagus crowns may remain productive for 15 to 20 years, sometimes even more.

It should be OK to wait to plant them in spring. Make sure that the pots are protected from freezing (such as surrounding them with a thick layer of straw mulch). Asparagus should go through a period of dormancy over winter for best spear growth. Keep them in a cool area (preferable outdoors). In late fall, after the foliage has died or has yellowed, cut them back to about an inch from the ground. Do not water or fertilize the plants over winter. In spring, begin watering again just before spears appear, and remove mulch when they do appear.

Hi, Marilyn, Apparently this is a very rare event! Folks we contacted had little to no experience with it, so there was no consensus, just opinions. These incluude

• to leave the spears, as you would first and second year growth.

• to pick the spears and enjoy them—they're a gift!

• to pick a few and leave a few, so you have the best of both worlds: a harvest and a plant allowed to mature...in which case (it occurs to us) you're blessed twice.

Hope this helps!

Normally no. Usually one lets the spears grow in spring, harvesting some of them, then letting the rest grow into ferns to make food for the plant during the season so they can survive over winter and grow again next spring. However, there is a method mentioned by the Arizona Cooperative Extension where, if you have a lot of space, for a spring/fall harvest you can grow half of your bed the above way, and half the following way: when the spears appear in spring, do not harvest them--let them grow into ferns. Then in late July, cut the ferns down. This prompts the plant to grow new spears, which you can harvest a certain percentage (just like the spring-harvested method) for a few weeks before the end of the growing season. These fall-harvested crops will always need to be only harvested in fall -- you can't also harvest from them in spring, or you will severely weaken the plants. Hope this helps!

Asparagus growing in containers will not yield as much, and will not live nearly as long as those grown in the ground, but the method does offer access to these wonderful plants to those who do not have the yard space. These plants do need lots of space, however, and will quickly outgrow a 4-gallon pot -- ideally something like 15 gallons or more is preferable - about 18 to 20 inches deep and about the same as wide. They do not like transplanting, though, so if you decide to transfer them to a larger pot, wait until they are dormant in fall or winter.

For general care, wait for the ferns to die back in the fall, then cut them down to about 3 inches. Provide mulch over the crowns (some use the cut down ferns) and protect them appropriately from winter's cold, depending on your climate (they do require some period of cold temperatures). In spring, side-dress with organic fertilizer, scratching it into the surface, and then add some compost. Be sure your pot has good drainage, and that it is set in an area where the plant can get about 6 to 8 hours full sun. Water consistently (when dry about 2 inches into soil -- do not overwater).

Do not harvest from the plants until the second year after they were planted in the container (so yours would then be 4 years old if you planted 2-yr crowns in spring 2016--if you transplant them again into another pot, you ideally should wait another year again -- you can play it by ear, and monitor the vigor of the plants as they come up that second year).

For more advice for growing asparagus in your area, you might try contacting your county's Cooperative Extension. For contact information, see:

http://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-serv...

Hi Mike, asparagus does need full sun! We have updated our page to reflect that. Thank you!

After you harvest the asparagus, you should keep watering the plants for good fern growth until they die down.  Once they die in the fall, then you mow and mulch them on the beds.

Male flowers have 6 stamens with orange anthers and white non-protruding filaments, that tend to be more bell shaped. The female's ovary is green and in three sections, and its flowers have pistils with a 3-stigma style--they are more tubular. It is best to leave the fern-like growth intact until it turns brown in the fall, as the foliage is photosynthesizing and helps generate energy for the following year.

The asparagus fronds provide and store energy for the roots that provide the spears in the next season. The effect of this early shearing is likely to be a poor spear harvest next year. With such well-established plants, we think—we hope—that you might only have to sacrifice one year.

For now, leave the plants alone. Do nothing. In autumn, weed the bed then lay on a few inches of organic matter (composted manure, leaf mold, the like) and work it into the soil. Check the pH and amend if necessary. Asparagus are pretty hardy once established and four years is a pretty well-established bed.

Next year, leave the fronds in place, letting them turn brown in the autumn. Then, tell your husband he can cut them down.

All the best!

By "now" you mean in June, right? Sure. Better to get them started. Keep them watered—but not wet (sopping) and allow them to dry between watering.

Which end is up? We're not clear what you mean. You typically plant asparagus from crowns in the home garden. Do you mean for cooking? You snap off the woody root ends of asparagus before cooking. Hope this helps!

Both plants like about the same soil pH, and fertile soil with good drainage in a sunny spot. A concern, however is the height of the asparagus ferns, which can grow between 3 and 8 feet tall, depending on the age of the plant and the variety. It is possible that, depending on where they are placed by the roses relative to the Sun's path, they might shade them out, as well as block air circulation (little or no air circulation increases the likelihood of disease for roses). It is important, though, to keep the asparagus ferns intact (and not prune them), as they provide the food that the plant needs to survive the winter and maintain health. You'll want access to the asparagus to harvest the spears early on, and allow them light. Having the two together might be OK, if the two plant groups are positioned so that both get enough light (and air circulation) at all times, in all stages of growth.

You might want to fill in on a case-by-case basis. If some crowns have growth 5 inches or more, add about 2 or so inches more soil over the base. For those that are under that amount, you might wait until the spears appear and reach a larger size -- also, you don't want to cover any foliage that develops. Once growth reaches the minimum size, you can start filling in about 2 inches every two weeks until trench is filled. To keep soil outside the trenches from washing away, you might try placing a tarp over it and around the edges. Hope this helps!

It's best not to till an asparagus bed, as you might damage the crowns. Early in the season, before growth emerges, it is possible to use a hoe to remove weeds shallowly, but at the current stage, where you have young and ready-to-harvest spears, hand pulling is best to avoid damage. After you remove the weeds, a 3- or 4-inch layer of organic mulch, such as straw (not hay, which may have seedheads), can help prevent further weed emergence.

Asparagus may fern early in hot temperatures or drought. Make sure that your plants are getting enough water. Also, that they are receiving a topdressing of fertilizer each year. If they run out of nutrients, the spears may be small. Thin spears may also be a sign of age (which would not be the case in a 5-year-old bed) or harvesting too many spears, which can stress the plant. Also, be sure to only remove the ferns after they have completely browned. If removed too early, the plant can't make enough food for it to survive well, causing weak growth next year.

Hi Valerie,

Do not cut or pull the stems. You may disturb roots that are still growing. Add some compost to the soil and in the fall cover your beds with mulch to protect the roots from freezing temperatures.

If you have a small bed, you can handpick weeds as they emerge, being careful of the asparagus crowns. Mulch also will help to supress them, and some gardeners find that a 3- to 4-inch layer of sawdust does the trick. Avoid placing the sawdust right near the crowns, as it can form a crust--this crust helps to keep weeds down, but can also inhibit the asparagus from getting water. Another concern is that the microbes that break down sawdust may use up nitrogen; keep an eye out to see if your plants might need a little nitrogen boost during the growing season (turning yellowish or pale green). An alternative mulch would be to use about 4 to 6 inches of straw (not hay).

Sophia, We thank YOU for reading the questions and answers first!!  You have brought a big smile to our day, and we're glad you found this page useful. Sincerely, your OFA editors

Opinions on this seem to vary. But one thing is clear: A lot of people would love to have thick asparagus spears.

Here's what we know: According to one source, all-male varieties such as 'Jersey' produce thicker spears; male plant do not get involved in fruit formation. Another source says 'Jersey' is recommended for home growers.

Another says it's due to "vigor": plant health; and goes to suggest that newer-producing plants make fatter spears.

But a range of spear sizes from one plant is also common. Spears that sprout from the center of the plant come up fatter because they are closer to the (center) nutrient source. Thin spears come from the "edges" of a plant crown.

So what can you do?

Grin and bear it, or give them away.

Because the bed is likely older than 2 years, it would probably be OK to harvest the spears this year, providing the plants look healthy. Only harvest spears that are thicker than a pencil and ideally are between 6 and 8 inches tall, with buds that have not opened yet. Harvest only for 2 to 3 weeks, ideally, although for established beds more than 5 years of age, some gardeners harvest up to 8 weeks, before summer. After that, let all spears grow into ferns, so that the plant can make food for itself for over winter. Note: If you find that the spears coming up are predominantly thinner than a pencil, then stop the harvest, even if it is sooner than the normal amount of weeks for harvest, or else the plants will weaken and your harvest next year will suffer. Hope this helps!

so is Caitlyn a dragon fly?

So, we're thinking that you didn't plant asparagus, so you don't know if this is asparagus.
Do you have any spears? Spears would be making an appearance, too.

One way to see what this is, because it may not be asparagus (we have no way of knowing for certain) is to dig up an area. If there is a "crown" from which the ferns come, with long roots going deep into the ground beneath it, this may be asparagus. The crown is a fairly substantial centerpiece; the roots are numerous and deep. (You do not need to unearth all of the roots.)

If it is not asparagus, take the unearthed plant, with the fern-like top, to a local nursery. They may be able to identify it for you.

We are thinking that by "bending over" you mean that the spears are spindly—thin, weak. This is usualy a sign that the crowns were not planted deep enough; that they are shallow. Depth should be 6 to 8 inches (we say 6 above; close enough). It also strikes us that you might have soil imbalance (did you check pH? do a soil test?); asparagus loves rich organic matter but too much of any/some nutrients—fertilizer and manure, for example—could contribute to the spindliness by "getting them going," so to speak, faster than nature would have it happen.

Well... I have exactly the same issue. I wish someone would have answered this question, cause it would have been extremely helpful. I guess I'll just throw them in the ground, so to speak, and see what happens... :|

I think it would be OK to frame the existing bed, as long as the digging did not extend into the area around the crowns. However, it might not be good to bury the crowns further with soil, depending on how deeply they are planted now and how much soil you intend to add. The more soil the spears need to grow up through, the more resources the plant uses, and possibly the weaker the plant and the less yield you will get at harvest time. You can, however, add fertilizer (in early spring before spears emerge, using 10-10-10 or similar; then a nitrogen fertilizer just after harvest, around June), compost, and mulch each year, to keep plants happy.

Volunteer asparagus should be pulled out of the beds because they will become crowded and production will suffer.

Depending on your climate and local weather, it may still be OK not to see the little spears poking up just yet. Give it a few more weeks; warm soil will wake them. Cool, wet weather can slow things down. Otherwise, it may possibly be that the crowns have rotted over winter, or succumbed to disease. Make sure your site has good drainage, sun, and air circulation.

Apologies, Chad. By now the snow must have come and gone, and we've been busy here. We expect your asparagus came out of it fine. We would have suggested a light layer of mulch, if snow and extended cold was imminent. But asparagus is tough. It's probably fine and you can look forward to decades of harvests.

Chad, did your asparagus survive the cold snap?

Yes, 1 or 2 spears per crown is normal the first year after planting; a few more might pop up a little later. Just let them grow, as you suggested, and wait for the ferns to brown, then cut them back. Harvest very lightly the next year, then the third year, the plants should be established for normal harvesting.

We are all for harvesting the spears (when they are at least 4 inches tall or more). Nearly all commerical asparagus grown in the US is harvested from January to June, so you may be right on schedule. Enjoy it!

If your plan is to grow asparagrass from seed and you are growing a small planting, now is a good time to plant the seed inside. The seed are quite slow to germinate. Soak them in water with a little bit of detergent mixed in so as to break down the coating on the seed. After soaking for a couple of days plant them in a flat container with drainage. Use a potting mix or peat or mulching medium that has been soaked with water. Plant the seed about a half inch deep. Don't allow the medium to dry out. It will take weeks for the little plants to emerge. After they are a couple inches tall they can be transplanted into larger containers. Later when there is no frost danger transplant the larger containers into your garden area. For a more detailed guide pull up asparagrass propagation on the Internet.

Tareq, I am not sure of your location, but we provide planting dates for the U.S. and Canada as we are a North American publication. You can find planting dates here:

https://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-calendar

You can overwinter your asparagus indoors; put them in a garage or cooler (but not freezing) section of the home, as the crowns need to go dormant. Once the ferns die, you can cut them off and place mulch over the soil surface to protect them from cooler temperatures. In early spring, consider planting them in their permanent home outdoors, before growth starts. Do not harvest in the coming year–allow at least one more year for the plant to establish.

If you planted your asparagus from seed, we recommend that you start harvesting after this third year. It's good to let the spears grow into ferns for good production next year. Optionally: lightly fertilize for good top growth. Keep moist. Then, after frost, cut the spears down to 2-inch stubs to force dormancy. In the fall, add 4 to 6 inches of mulch and some organic matter and nutrients. In warm areas, withhold water in October and November to make ferns go dormant (turn yellow). Remove dried tops in early winter before new sprouts appear.

It might be best to wait until spring, and plant them then while they are still dormant. Protect them over winter, as you have suggested, with a thick layer of mulch.

You might try overwintering indoors, but put them in a garage or cooler (but not freezing) section of the home, as the crowns need to go dormant. Once the ferns die, you can cut them off and place mulch over the soil surface to protect them from cooler temperatures. In early spring, consider planting them in their permanent home outdoors, before growth starts. Do not harvest in the coming year--allow at least one more year for the plant to establish.

Once the tops have died back, spread a layer of compost over the roots and add a layer of straw, up to 6 inches, to keep them cosy for the winter.

It might depend on the setup. It would be best to keep them away from each other. The asparagus ferns need light, and the vines, depending on the trellising etc., may create too much shade. Depending on how much you train the vines, too, they might inhibit the asparagus. Asparagus ferns can grow 6 feet tall--which might also block the light from the grapes. You could set aside a block of area for the asparagus bed, though, at one end of your plot.

Hi, Karen. Check out the Harvest/Storage section above.

Yes. You dig up the underground shoots, rhizome and roots in the autumn and air dry them.

Just let them fall over. Don't cut back these ferns until after frost has turned them brown.

Were the 7 a different variety of asparagus from the other 9? If so, it could be a factor (such as coping with unusual weather differently, etc). Or, are they in more heat/shade/dampness? Check to make sure that they did not get too dry, which can significantly affect growth. Also, check for diseases or pests. If you think that the crowns are a lost cause, then we'd recommend waiting until next spring to plant again. For best results, you want the plants to have plenty of time to grow ferns over the summer, so that they can produce food for themselves to survive over winter. In the meantime, it might possibly be that those 7 might just perk up in a few weeks.

Hi Sara, That's correct. Asparagus is usually harvested by mid-April when the stalks are tender (about 6 to 10 inches long) and the tips are still tight. Any larger and we would discard them. Once it develops foliage, it's too tough to eat.

Do not cut them back while green! This is how they store energy for a good crop next year. Wait until the frosts turn the ferns brown; then you can cut them back.

Good find! Asparagus, once established, can produce 15 to 30 years! Aspargus loves lots of organic matter and compost mixed in. It's also important to keep out weeds so you can mulch the bed in late winter so the weeds don't grow in the spring.

You should divide your asparagus crowns--and do this every few years. To divide, first discard any woody parts. Then you gently handle the crown--and pull apart each section that has a strong growing point. Immediately replant with the budsvisible at the soil surface.

Fertilize every spring. We like fish, blood and bone fertilizer. Let the foliage yellow and die back; do not cut it. When you mulch for winter, then cut the plants down to the soil level.

Hi, Heather, The fact that you did not cut the fronds should not cause the crop to diminish (althought that should be done after the fronds die back naturally). A couple of things come ti mind:

• did you water sufficiently last year?

• has the plot been weeded?

and perhaps most importantly,

• is the soil a heavily composted bed and is your pH at propoer range (6.0 to 8.0)?

Check these things and "fix," if possible. For local details, you might contact your state cooperative extension (get info via a Web search).

We hope this helps.

Hi, Gloria, So we're on the same page: the "roots" are actually crowns. It's hard to figure the number of spears per crown; we've seen/heard it stated as 1/2 pound per crown and as a measure of mouths your feeding: for example, plant 5 crowns per eater to eat fresh harvested. If you plan to freeze the crop, plant 10 crowns per eater.

Overall harvest volume depends more on the health of the plant's fern growth and your not overharvesting. Overharvesting reduces fern growth and so harvest the next year.

The harvest season in years is typically as follows:

• in 2nd year, harvest for 2 weeks

• in 3rd year, harvest for 4 weeks

• in 4th year, harvest for 6 weeks

• in the 5th year and beyond, harvest for 8 weeks.

More during warm spells, when spears are 5 to 7 inches in length. And all of these presumes that soil and water conditions are optimal.

Stop harvesting when spears are pencil thin, no matter what the week.

So it may be better to say that the older the crop, the more you get.

We hope this helps.

Asparagus is sometimes grown in a container, but it is difficult. One plant needs a deep and wide planter, at least 20 inches by 20 inches (some sources recommend even larger). The container should be placed on wheels for easy transport, and the pot should have drainage holes. Keep in mind that the fronds will grow quite tall (several feet). Also, the first 2 or 3 years, you'll need to avoid harvesting--so it would be just an ornamental early on. But if you are up to a challenge, it certainly is worth a try!

It is possible that the plants are recovering from losing their food-producing ferns from last year. Asparagus will sometimes will grow weak, spindly spears in this case (or if they were harvested too much). Or, it might instead be that the weather in your area is delaying the spears from emerging for a bit and that they will be fine in a few weeks. You might also check for disease, such as crown rot, which can also cause poor production. If crowns appear healthy, and after a while it does look like the plants are not producing, allow them to rest and do not harvest this year. Allow any spears that do emerge to develop fully into ferns so that they can help the plant to make food for the winter. Fertilize over the growing season as needed, and make sure that they get the proper amount of water. Provide mulch and hand weed, being careful around shallow asparagus roots. Next year, harvest very lightly or not at all; allow most spears to produce ferns again, to build up food resources in the crowns.

I did the same thing, and was wondering the same thing. It took almost a month, (about a week of good, warm, weather) for them to show, but now at about 6 weeks, I only have one plant that is less than a foot tall. Have patience, and you will be rewarded.

Hi, Kara,

If these are transplants, you might be able to pick them in their "first year"—first year for you. You will know when you see them: they may be thin, but they would be edible. Watch for overcrowding; if the spears become thinner and thinner, you will need to divide them. (Perhaps your plants are divisions?)

I bought two year old crowns and planted them last spring, while they were slow in initially growing, they did produce a small amount of good asparagus. This year, I already have about 40 spears that are about 2" so far.

That's a gift! Do you have any idea how old it is?? Second year beds should not be picked; third year, sparingly over month; fourth or more years, over eight weeks, as often as twice a day, if necessary. Cut with a knife or snap spears off with your fingers at ground level.

Some care tips are above. For example, keep the bed weeded (a good layer of mulch will smother them), and keep the bed thickly mulched, side-dress, or fertilize, in spring and early fall with a balanced organic fertilizer or top-dress with compost tea, and cut down dead foliage in late fall.

Check the soil pH. Asparagus likes it sweet. It, pH, should be 6.0 to 8.0. Your extension, below, can help or get a kit at a garden supply store for a couple dollars. Amend accordingly.

Your local (Wyoming) extension service may be of assistance, too: http://www.wyomingextension.org/agpubs/pubs/B1115.pdf

The bed may be doing very well, but you're wise to plan ahead to keep it so.

This is normal. Asparagus ferns can be about 2 or 3 feet when young; older plants can produce taller ones, sometimes between 5 and 8 feet tall.

Hi Cory,

If you don't want to amend your garden soil your best bet is to build a raised bed and fill it with a good mix of soil and compost. The bed needs to be at least 12 inches high. The asparagus is perennial and will keep growing and getting bigger.

I'm growing mine in s Georgia on the Florida line. Iv grow in ground and in raised planters. Raised planters produce much better. I use plastic square container about 2 ft deep. Leave room at top for manipulating soil level. I layer bottom with rock and then about seven inches of white sand. I mix potting soil about half and half with sand. Holes every 4 inches for drainage. That sits atop railroad tie with 4 red bricks on it. That keep standing water flowing out. Keep moist but avoid soggy.

Hi Joeri,

Both rhubarb and asparagus will spread over time and the rhubarb leaves will shade some of the asparagus. It would be better to plant them in separate beds. You can try to grow rhubarb in a big, deep container.

Asparagus can be interplanted with other crops, such as strawberries, and even a few mixed in with flowers. Tomatoes, parsley, and basil are said to be a companion plants of asparagus and help with pest control. Be careful about planting new crops in an established bed, however, so that you do not disturb the asparagus crowns. Choose more shallow-rooted crops (asparagus is deep-rooted), and those that require similar growing conditions. Squash, pumpkins, and tomatoes have deep roots, so you might want to plant more shallow rooted types (you can put beneficial tomatoes at the perimeter of the bed). Cucumber roots are medium-depth. Try not to crowd the crowns. Keep in mind that the tall asparagus fronds might shade other plants. Also, cucurbits tend to be heavy feeders (as is asparagus), so be sure that the asparagus crowns are getting enough food; other crops planted in the same space will compete for nutrients. On the other hand, certain low-growing crops can help with weed control.

Asparagus is not very invasive. It grows slowly and you do want it to multiply in a designated garden plot. If it starts growing in an unwanted area you can just pull it out. Raised beds is also an option.

Hi Nellie,

Asparagus roots don't do well if planted too deep. Research has shown that the deeper asparagus crowns are planted, the more the total yield is reduced. It's recommended to plant crowns 5 to 6 inches deep. Depending on how deep your crowns are now adding more soil to the top will cause a smaller harvest next year. You may need to lift the asparagus and replant after you have added the soil.

Hi Huey,

It's going to take a while for your seedlings to bear lots of spears. One crown usually grows 3 to 4 spears after 3 years. It's recommended to plant about 10 crowns per person to have enought asparagus to eat.

It never will become anything other than a spear. There are a few farmers who just plant the tips for fast production of the spears. Although I've never seen one 4 feet tall.

Asparagus crowns should be kept in moist sand, or wrapped in damp newspapers, and stored in a cool location, like a basement.

Transplant your plants while they are dormant ideally in the spring just before the spears start to show growth. Carefully dig them up with a fork and try not to disturbe or brake the roots. Do not harvest too heavily next year to give the asparagus a chance to re-build its strength.

It's advised to cut the asparagus back in the fall, but it is important that you wait until all of the foliage has died back and turned brown or yellow. Once the foliage has died, cut it down to about two inches above the ground.

Asparagus need about 18 inches between rows so we wouldn't plant any nearer than that.

Hi Lea-Ann,

Transplanting is best done when the plants are dormant. Early spring before they start growing or late fall (before your first frost). Be aware that after so many years the roots may be tangled underground. Lift the crowns with a fork with as little disturbance of the roots as possible. Try to separate the crowns and remove any weeds. Give the plants some water after you have transplanted them. Good luck!

Do not cut down the ferns until the spring; the fern growth is needed for next year's asparagus spear production.  Seeds are on the female plants and, yes, the seeds do reduce yield. Most of the newer hybrids, such as Jersey Giant, are all male plants, producing no seeds.

Hi, Leah,

Drought conditions could be the problem. Asparagus, being a perennial, needs water to maintain and increase its vigor. Lack of adequate moisture can bring on Fusarium, which is essentially rot of various parts: stem, crown, and root.

You mention planting in a container... Asparagus will not thrive in a container for more than a couple of seasons. If this is a traditional container, it would have been more susceptible to drying out; most containers are.

Sorry we have not better news.

The berries are seeds (and poisonous, for the record), and only female plants produce them. It's not clear why they no longer appear, but if the harvest is satisfactory, you're doing something right.

You can carefully transplant them to a new bed. It will take a few years before they start producing.

The tall plants you have started off as spears. You have to harvest them when they coming up out of the ground before they get too big. Happens really fast!

Hi Jim, If you planted your asparagus from seed, we recommend that you start harvesting after this third year. It's good to let the spears grow into ferns for good production next year. Optionally: lightly fertilize for good top growth. Keep moist. Then, after frost (when the foliage yellows), cut the spears down to 2-inch stubs to force dormancy. In the fall, add 4 to 6 inches of mulch and some organic matter and nutrients. In warm areas, withhold water in October and November to make ferns go dormant (turn yellow). Remove dried tops in early winter before new sprouts appear.

this is the third year of the asparagus plants. they are tall and branches are like ostrich feathers. Will they turn into spears?

Hi, Jason,

You should start to see shoots soon. If you do not, reconsider that asparagus is fairly particular: it likes warm to hot weather, heavy compost, slightly sweet (pH of 6 to 8) well-draining soil, and regular watering (keep them damp during dry weather). With care, you can apply compost and/or lime while the plant is in the ground, if conditions warrant it.

You should not pick it until the second year and then only sparingly. So, while it's a long initial wait, as you suggest, and a longer one to harvest—but worth it!

This is not an easy fix. Pull out as much as you can, making sure that you get as many little pieces as possible. (Some advise screening the soil to be sure you have those bits, but this would be a project.) Then smother the mint, but not the asparagus tips, with layers of newspaper. This will eventually break down, so be ready to add more. And be ready to water the asparagus, if the newspaper seems impervious.

This process wll weaken the mint. In a few weeks, lift some of the newspaper. Remove any pale, sun-deprived mint. You can return the newspaper and keep it there for a while longer; it won't hurt the 'grass. Just be prepared to do it again next season. It may take few attempts to clear.

In the meantime, remove the mint from the surrounding area.

Many gardeners top-dress by adding 1or 2 inches of compost onto a bed in fall and the crowns rise through it.

In the winter, a mulch of 4 to 6 inches is advisable, but is often removed.

So, a foot or so of coverage could be too much at one time for the spears to survive. We suggest that contact your local extension service for more details.

* One of the most important things to do is to remove plant debris in the garden, including spent asparagus fronds, in the fall, since the beetles overwinter in plant debris.

* Asparagus beetles are said to be repelled by petunias, marigolds, and basil, so you might try planting those nearby.

* Cover the asparagus with row covers during the growing season.

* Handpick the beetles and larvae when you see them; you can shake the fronds over a bucket of water to knock the pests off.

* Chickens help to remove the pests, if that's an option.

* Ask a garden nursery about insecticide options.

* Harvest the spears as early as you can.

* The spotted asparagus beetle is similar to the common asparagus beetle, but lays its eggs near the asparagus berries, so male-only asparagus cultivars will help to deter this species.

Asparagus grows very fast and can be picked nearly daily in a healthy productive bed. When asparagus gets that tall you can be sure the majority of the stem is tough and fiberous. Break the asparagus off where the tender meets the tough. It should cut or snap off easily at this point. The spears should be picked when they are 6-10 inches to be at the most tender.

Opinions vary on when to attack the weeds: in fall, after the first hard frost (or maybe after a couple of frosts, depending on how hard one frost might be). Or in early spring, before the weeds get going.

In digging and pulling the weeds, remember that the asparagus crown is probably 6 to 8 inches below the surface and, after so long in the ground, it has probably expanded in overall size. Use a hoe or other such tool to dig without piercing or breaking the asparagus crown. You could do this both in spring and fall, considering how overgrown it may be after so long.

When you have the bed as weed free as possible, apply 3 to 4 inches of organic mulch—wood chips, compost, or clean straw. It will help to minimize weeds.

Several sources mention using salt, diluted in water as a traditional remedy for weeds in asparagus, but we do not recommend it.

My husband has used a weed killer(round up is one he has used) on the weeds and grass in our asparagus beds. It has not hurt the asparagus. Good luck

I had an elderly friend whose asparagus patch has sodded over as well. I went out in Fall and dug all the grass off of the patch and it grew beautifully the next Spring. Just don't dig any deeper than you have to to pull that sod off and you should be fine and feel great that you are letting the asparagus "breathe" again.

I use a weed eater to control grass in my 15 year old asparagus bed. Clean out the bed in the spring before grass and asparagus start growing. After each cutting of asparagus, weed eat grass down to the ground. When you stop harvesting at the beginning of June, grass is usually slowing down for summer and asparagus will fern.

We suggest that you cut all shoots for 3 - 5 weeks and then stop and let them grow to gain strength for next spring.

Asparagus gets along with most vegetables but there are certain plants that are extra beneficial. Parsley and basil will help with growth and vigor and tomatoes planted near asparagus help deter asparagus beetles.

Asparagus isn't something we've tried in containers but it should grow in just about any soil type as long as it's well-drained, so make sure to put a layer of gravel at the bottom of your half barrel to help with drainage.

I started my raised bed last year, with new spears ready to harvest now. You should look for a companion planting guide, it will help prevent pests and reduce the need for any harmful chemicals. I did companion planting with parsley. Hope this helps.

Hi Carli,

You can make your own soil mix. Mix together equal parts of potting soil, sand, compost and aged manure.

Each crown will produce about 1/2 lb. of spears per year when fully established. Plant 10-12 crowns per person.

Many gardeners don't think that there is much gain from buying 3-year crowns and the younger crowns are less likely to break when planting. Even with the younger crowns you can harvest a few spears after the crowns have been growing a full year.

Two years ago I bought three year 3YR crowns.This year they just matured into 6Ft. plants gathering food for the crowns.They are powerful looking,this spring I will digest every piece that cones up.So invest into 3YR. crowns,I mean it.

According to one reader, till in the spring as soon as you can--and then apply rock salt. For a 20 foot-square area, apply about 50 pounds of rock salt. You should enjoy a weedless asparagus patch!

This is a new question for us! As aspargus and lettuce are "companion plants," it might be OK to plant asparagus beween rows of lettuce and may even help their growth. Many gardeners do not put the asparagus in the regular vegetables beds. Mine is near the compost bin as it loves the heavy organic matter and you really don't notice it. It is vital that your asparagus bed doesn't have any weeds so keep it weed-free.

I have had luck with planting asparagus and strawberries together in a perennials bed that I do not disturb. Both seem happy and are productive, and it's an efficient use of space in my small garden!

Hi Sarah,

Asparagus roots spread horizontally and will over several years develop into a thick mat of roots and underground shoots. By pulling the tops you may have pulled some roots but hopefully your bed is established enough so that there are still roots in the soil that will grow next year. The hops will compete with the asparagus and eventually take over. We suggest moving it.

Spindly spears usually happen with there isn't enough soil covering the crowns. Over time, the soil will recede; make sure you have 3 to 5 inches of soil covering the crowns.
When you harvest spears, they should be 5 to 8 inches in length. You can either cut or snap the stalks.To cut a spear, run a knife into the soil at the base of the spear and carefully sever it.
You can allow some spears to develop into those fuzzy ferns; it helps the plant develop sufficient top growth for good spear production.

Every spring, you should see new shoots. You want to harvest them when they are only 9 inches tall. Just snap at ground level.  If you find emerging spears during harvest time, remove them.

Your asparagus will be fine. In early spring, mow or cut back the stalks to ground level.

Asparagus is quite hardy. It's normally transplanted in early spring, though some readers seem to prefer fall. Any time is fine as long as the asparagus is in a dormant period and not in growth—and the soil is at least 50 degrees F.
Here is more information: http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1603.html

In the first year, there's nothing special you need to do. Let it get established. The ferns can trap snow and provide moisture.  In the spring, you can remove old fern growth and wait for the new spears to emerge.

It depends on where you live. In general, asparagus is harvested from late February to June, with April being the prime month.

Even though these are 3-year-old crowns instead of 1- or 2-year-olds, it's best to not harvest the first year after planting. The second year, go lightly, and the third, the plants should be established enough to handle a regular harvest. According to some gardeners, 3-year-old crowns can sometimes can be a little more fussy in adjusting to their new home, compared to 1- and 2-year-olds, so it's best to wait in case. If you are really set on a harvest this year, and your plants look vigorous, with lots of healthy shoots on each crown, and a healthy green color to the ferns, you might be OK in harvesting extremely lightly for about 2 weeks--leave several shoots on each crown for the ferns to grow and provide food for the plant to help it to become established. It would be better, though, to not harvest at all this year. Let the ferns brown and die back before cutting them down. These allow the plant to make food and gain in vigor.

If you're creating space for an asparagus bed, you just want to make sure it's weed- and grass-free as asparagus can not compete with weeds. You can either treat the area with an herbicide that's OK for food crops or/and you could cover the area with black plastic during the summer before planting time. You don't have to burn a field. However, some gardeners like to burn the bed every spring to cut back on weeds and insects.

Do not harvest the asparagus during the planting year. Wait until next year. Do not cut down the fern growth at the end of the growing season. Wait until the spring. Then put down mulch and keep out weeds. Make sure you test your soil; amend with lime if the pH is below 6.0 to 6.5. When harvest season comes (watch closely!), pick the spears daily before they start to put on their foliage.

It's best to leave the ferns alone. Cut them back after the first frost this fall.

Asparagus is a cool-region crop. If you sun is very hot move the pots into an area with semi-shade. Asparagus does best in light soil that drains well. Let the soil dry out before you water again so that the roots don't sit in soggy soil.

A stalk is just a plant shoot. Each crowd grows a bunch of spears so expect more.

What happened? Did another one appear?

Have you had your soil tested? Amend it with lime if the pH is below 6.0 to 6.5 --or, follow the fertilizer recommendations based on the results. You can usually get a free soil test from your cooperative extension. Also, make sure you keep the bed free of weeds. Add lots of organic mulch to keep it weed-free and help keep moisture in.

At this point, you can assume you have a problem. We would gently dig down to find out what's going on. Crown rot would be the usual suspect.

We only eat the young shoots of asparagus. Asparagus is so healthy that we imagine it would be great in any form--from soup to tea.

It sounds as if it's too warm where you live. To get good spears each year, the root system needs to store food from the previous year (through the ferns, etc). If it's warm or there are poor growing conditions, spears will be smaller the following spring. Over time, you'll get less and less spears each year. You always want to leave the ferns to help spear production. Also, it's important to divide asparagus roots during the winter into individual plants for replanting.

Odds are not in your favor now. Plant next spring. Set out seedlings when they are 12 to 14 weeks old, just after your last spring frost. Or, start with asparagus crowns (dormant roots of 1-year-old plants) to eliminate years of headaches that come with starting from seed.

You should start to see spears in a few more weeks. Rain or temperature may affect when they emerge--make sure there is good drainage. If nothing comes up for a while, you might check a crown or two to see if it has rotted or looks diseased. (Do not harvest any spears that appear during the first year after planting; allow them to develop into ferns, so that the plant can produce food to help it to become established. The second year, harvest lightly. Third year onward--harvest normally.)

When the recommended time slot for harvesting is over, allow everything to grow. All stalks, whether large or small, or from male or female plants, will develop into ferns. Leave the ferns over the summer and allow them to brown and die in fall before cutting them near the ground. Both male and female plants will produce ferns; both plants will flower. However, the female plants will also produce berries (if there is a male plant nearby for pollination). In general, female plants with berries may have thinner stalks than males because some of the energy goes into producing the fruit. Some hybrids are all-male; these usually have more vigor and produce thicker stalks.

Female asparagus plants naturally reseed the bed. Reseeding will overcrowd the established bed. You can carefully remove the seedlings and transplant them into a new bed, but you have to wait several years before you can enjoy asparagus from this bed.

We always apply well-composted organic matter to our beds before the season (mixed in with the fertilizer)--plus, several inches of deep mulching. This keeps most of the weeds at bay. However, hand pulling and mulch will not get rid of perennial weeds. You can only control by applying herbicides before the asparagus emerges and after fall frost. Check with your local cooperative extension or garden center for approved herbicides in your area. If your area is especially weedy, you may eventually have to face facts and re-set in a weed-free area.

The asparagus fern supplies energy to the roots and crowns. This is needed for next year’s crop. Cut the ferns back in the fall.

Leave the ferns until fall. They supply energy for next year's crop. Great idea to plant radishes between the rows!