How to Grow Green Beans: Plant, Care & Harvest Guide for Bush & Pole Beans

I planted green beans for the first time 3 years ago and got beautiful plants and a gorgeous crop. Last year I decided to fertilize my garden and the garden store recommended a basic fertilizer and lime treatment. I did that. But last year only 1/4 of the seeds I planted came up. I replanted and got the same results. This year we fertilized again and spread lime again. Same results only 1/4 of the seeds came up. I dug down in the soil and there are all these little stems about 2 inches long and the bean pod is burst open but they never rooted and came through the soil. We also mulch our garden with grass clippings as soon as we plant all the seeds. Can you help me figure out what is wrong?

You are planting to deeply and mulching before your seeds germinate. As beans germinate they have to push the cotyledons (seed leaves) up through the soil. If the soil is too deep, too heavy, too dense, too packed, etc., the cotyledons can not push through. The natural fibers of any mulch will increase this problem. Sometimes the seedling will break their necks by not being able to emerge from the soil. Soil tests are always important, but generally the lack of a test will not prevent germination unless your soils are extremely out of range. Try planting your beans approximately 1 inch deep and wait until they are 5-6 inches tall before using any mulch. Good luck with your beans.

Test you soil to make sure it has the right pH. Lime will make it more alkaline--don't add any more unless the soil is more acidic than optimum. Beans like it slightly acidic to around neutral, depending on the type: around 6.0 to 7.5. Also make sure that your seeds are viable (new seed packets would be fine). Cold soil will slow germination, and some bean varieties will take longer than others to sprout. Lots of water or rain can rot the seeds. Also, when mulching before seeds sprout, you might want to provide only about a 1/4 inch layer (or avoid the actual spots where the seeds are planted); otherwise, the seeds may have trouble pushing through (when plants establish, you can provide a thicker layer), and the soil might be kept cooler than optimum for sprouting. Or, you could just avoid mulching until after the seeds have sprouted and become more hardy. For grass clippings, let them brown and dry before applying them to the vegetable bed, and avoid those clippings from lawns treated with pesticides.

This is my first time ever to plant vegetables. I have to use containers though, due to zero yard space. I've started Kentucky wonder beans, tomatoes, green onion and yellow squash from seeds. I've followed all the instructions everywhere on the internet. My seeds were started 7 days ago. I have sprouts already from my beans as well as growth on the onions and tomatoes. I can barely see a bit of the squash poking thru the dirt. My concern is when do I transplant these to my larger containers? What are the chances of my first time container garden surviving? Any tips and information will be greatly appreciated!

In addition to the green beans, I'm concerned with mu tomato seedlings. Out of 8 containers, I only have 1 that has produced 2 leaves. What did I do wrong? Seeds were planted on June 1,2014. Help! Should I start over or is there a way to save the undeveloped ones?

Ideally, beans should be planted in the final container, as they do not like being transplanted, either that, or you can plant them in peat pots and then when the seedlings are ready, plant the entire peat pot in the final spot [make sure the top rim is slightly (1/4 inch) below soil level, or it will wick away water from around the seedling], whereupon the peat pot will break down in the soil. When transplanting a bean seedling to its final spot, handle it very gently so as to disturb the roots as little as possible. Be sure to plant it at the same depth that it was in the pot (they are fussy). Squash has fragile roots, so when transplanting, be very gentle; ideally, like beans, they should be planted in their final site.

 

Most seedlings should be transplanted to individual containers when they grow their second or third set of true leaves. The first "leaves" to appear will be the cotyledons, which are not true leaves, and will often have a different shape that the true ones.

 

If your plants are already outdoors, then you don't need to worry about hardening off. [If they are indoors, you'd need to gradually introduce them to outdoor conditions, by placing them in a shaded, protected area for a few hours each day, increasing the amount of time each successive day--take them in at night. After about 7 to 10 days, they should be ready to plant outdoors.]

 

Tomatoes usually emerge within 5 to 10 days, it could be that your other seeds may germinate soon; cooler soil temperatures may delay germination. Make sure the soil is at optimum temperature, and don't over- or underwater. Also, the older the seed is, the less will sprout. Transplant tomato seedlings the first time to individual pots when they have their second pair of true leaves (about 3 to 4 inches tall); transplant to the final spot when they are about 6 to 10 inches tall, after they have developed a healthy root system and a good set of leaves.

I have both pole and bush beans. Should I remove leaves that have been damaged by pests (mostly snails and tomato worms). Some of the leaves have dime-sized holes or the edges have been eaten away. The leaves are otherwise healthy (i.e. green). Don't know whether I should just leave the damaged leaves or whether it's better for the health of the plant to remove them. The bush bean plants are pretty lush. The pole beans are newer so less so. Thanks!

It depends on the insect and the damage. Some insects lay eggs in the leaves and the larvae will hatch inside (leaf miners), or spider mites weave webs on them. In those cases, where the insect would remain on the leaf and you can't remove the insect, remove the leaf. However, it sounds like yours have been damaged by, as you say, snails and tomato worms and perhaps other caterpillars, and/or maybe a beetle (such as a bean leaf beetle). These will wander over several leaves or plants. If you don't see signs of eggs (or if you do, you can knock them off), and the leaf appears to be coping (healthy green), then you should probably leave it be. (If they are clearly dying, though, then remove them to avoid diseases invading.)

 

If this were a disease, however, especially a virus, it sometimes would be best to remove the affected leaves to help prevent spreading.

 

If there are too many damaged leaves, or too many removed, the plant would suffer, as it wouldn't be able to make enough food.

 

I have planted 6 bush bean plants this year and they are producing beans enough for a couple of servings every couple to 4 days. So are they going to stop before the end of the summer? I should plant more to keep up with the harvest? Is that what we are saying?

we planted bush contender beans 3 wks ago and only 5/6 have come thru...the garden gets full sun from 11am-sundown. If we replant should we soak the beans first to give them a boost.