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How to Grow Cantaloupe Plants: The Complete Guide

Botanical Name
Cucumis melo
Plant Type
Fruit
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Soil pH
Slightly Acidic to Neutral

Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Cantaloupes

Catherine Boeckmann
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A juicy slice of a ripe cantaloupe is what summer is all about! This heat-loving melon has a relatively long growing season, making it especially well suited for southern gardeners. Here’s how to grow and care for cantaloupes.

About Cantaloupes

Cantaloupes are a type of melon with a tan-green rind. Typically, the rind is covered in a spiderweb-like pattern, though some varieties may also be striped. Inside, the flesh is bright orange and sweet. Their growing requirements are similar to those of other popular melons, such as watermelons and honeydew melons.

Cantaloupes vs. Muskmelons

Oddly enough, the melon that is commonly referred to as a “cantaloupe” in North America is not actually a true cantaloupe, which is more common in Europe. In fact, our “cantaloupes” are a type of muskmelon. (True cantaloupe has a rough, warty rind and is not widely grown or commercially available in the US and Canada.) In North America, the names “muskmelon” and “cantaloupe” are used interchangeably, but we will refer to this fruit simply as “cantaloupe” on this page to avoid confusion!

Cantaloupes sliced

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Planting

Plant in a spot that gets full sun (6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day) with well-draining soil that’s a mix between loamy and sandy. (Growing the plants in raised rows—aka “hills”—ensures good drainage.) Amend the soil with aged manure or compost before planting. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.

Mulching the planting site with black plastic will serve multiple purposes: it will warm the soil ahead of planting, hinder weed growth, and keep developing fruits clean.

When to Plant Cantaloupes

This warm-season, very tender crop thrives in heat and hates the cold! It thrives in warmer climates with longer growing seasons.

  • It’s best started directly from seed. If you live in a warmer climate, you may direct sow seeds outdoors after all danger of frost is well past and when the soil temperature warms to at least 70°F (21°C).
     
  • However, if you’re set on growing cantaloupes in a colder region, you can start seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before your last spring frost date.  Transplant outdoors 2 to 3 weeks after the last spring frost when the soil is at least 70°F (21°C). 

How to Plant Cantaloupes

  • Plant seeds 1 inch deep, 18 inches apart, in hills (or hilled rows) about 3 feet apart.
  • If you have limited space, vines can be trained up a support, such as a trellis.
  • If you plant indoors, use peat pots or soil blocks to avoid root disturbance. Harden off seedlings before transplanting. 

Cantaloupes growing

Growing

  • If a soil test indicates that nutrients are lacking, fertilize with a standard liquid fertilizer when vines start growing and spreading. Later on, avoid nitrogen-heavy fertilizers, as too much nitrogen can result in lots of foliage and less fruit.
  • Row covers are a good way to keep pests like squash bugs and vine borers at bay.
  • Watering is key. While the plants are growing, blooming, and setting fruit, they need about 2 inches per square foot of water (about 1.5 gallons) per week.
    • Water in the morning, and try to avoid wetting the leaves, as wet foliage encourages fungal and other diseases.
    • If possible, use drip irrigation to keep plants consistently and evenly watered.
    • Mulching around the plants can help to retain moisture.
    • Reduce watering once fruits are growing. Hot, dry weather produces the sweetest melons.
    • If you’ve had an exceptional amount of rainfall during the ripening stage, this can cause bland fruit.
  • Once fruit begins to grow, prune end buds off vines. Your plants may produce fewer melons, but they will be larger and of better quality.
  • Vines produce male and female flowers separately on the same plant. They often begin producing male flowers several weeks before the females appear. (Don’t be discouraged when the first blooms do not produce fruit.)
    • As with other cucurbits, melon flowers require pollination to set fruit, so be kind to the bees!
  • If your muskmelons taste bland, the trouble could be a lack of magnesium in sandy soil. Sweeten the fruit by spraying the vines with this solution: Dissolve 6 1/2 tablespoons of Epsom salts and 3 1/3 tablespoons of borax in 5 gallons of water. Spray the foliage when the vines begin to “run” and again when the fruit is about two inches in diameter.

Types

  • ‘Ambrosia‘ – 85 days to maturity. Among the sweetest varieties.
  • ‘Athena‘ – 70–80 days to maturity. Early variety that produces large, 5- to 6-pound fruits.
  • ‘Hale’s Best Jumbo’ – 80–90 days to maturity. Produces 3-pound aromatic melons.
  • ‘Minnesota Midget’ – 70–80 days to maturity. Early variety well-suited for gardens in colder regions. Produces 1-pound, sweetly flavored melons.
  • ‘Bush Star’ – 90 days to maturity. Bush variety suits gardeners with limited space.

Harvesting

How and When to Harvest Cantaloupes

  • When rinds begin to change from green to tan or yellow, the melon is typically ripe enough to pick. Be careful not to pick too early, however.
  • Look for a crack in the stem where it attaches to the fruit. This is a sign of ripeness as well. The fruit should be easy to separate from the vine, but if they fall off by themselves, they are usually overripe.
  • Harvest melon when vines are dry, and be careful not to damage them.
  • Melons will soften after harvesting but will not continue to sweeten off the vine.
  • Cantaloupe can be stored uncut for 5 or 6 days. If cut, they can last in the refrigerator for about 3 days, wrapped tightly in plastic.
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Pests/Diseases

Cantaloupe Pests and Diseases
Pest/DiseaseTypeSymptomsControl/Prevention
AphidsInsectMisshapen/yellow leaves; distorted flowers; leaf drop; sticky “honeydew” (excretion) on leaves; sooty, black moldKnock off with water spray; apply insecticidal soap; inspect new plants carefully; use slow-release fertilizers; avoid excess nitrogen; encourage aphid pests such as lacewings, ladybugs, spiders
Cucumber beetlesInsectHoles in leaves/flowers; rasped fruit; plants stunted/die; may transmit bacterial wilt (Bacterial wilt signs: wilting; plants die; ends of cut stems, when pressed together for 10 seconds and pulled apart, release stringy, white sap)Handpick; mulch heavily; use row covers; destroy plants infected with bacterial wilt
Cucumber mosaic virusVirusStunting; mottled green/yellow/white pattern or ringed spots on leaves/fruit; distorted leaf growth; warts on fruitDestroy infected plants; choose resistant varieties and certified virus-free seed; use row covers; disinfect tools; weed; control aphids; use mulch
Fusarium wiltFungusPlants wilt (sometimes on just one side) in daytime; leaves turn yellow (lower ones first); later, entire plant wilts/dies; stunting; stem cross section reveals brown discolorationDestroy infected plants; avoid excessive nitrogen; in acidic soils, raise pH to 7.0; choose resistant varieties; disinfect tools; rotate crops
Powdery mildewFungusTypically, white spots on upper leaf surfaces expand to flour-like coating over entire leaves; foliage may yellow/die; distortion/stunting of leaves/flowersDestroy infected leaves or plants; choose resistant varieties; plant in full sun, if possible; ensure good air circulation; spray plants with 1 teaspoon baking soda dissolved in 1 quart water; destroy crop residue
Squash vine borers (moth & larvae)InsectLarge, wrinkled larvae become orange-red/black, wasp-like, daytime moths; larvae bore into vines; vines wilt suddenly; plants die; mushy area and/or green to orange-yellow, sawdust-like excrement on/near base of plant stemIf detected early, slit infested stem lengthwise halfway to remove borer(s), then bury the cut in moist soil to encourage rooting; wrap seedling stems in aluminum foil collar; catch moths with yellow sticky traps; use row covers if no pests previously, but uncover before flowering; destroy crop residue; rotate crops

Wit and Wisdom

  • Cantaloupe was named for Cantalupo, a former papal villa near Rome.

Recipes

Grilled Cantaloupe With Prosciutto
Fruit
About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana. Read More from Catherine Boeckmann
 

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Comments

Gretchen in Iowa (not verified)

8 years 9 months ago

Is there a temperature at which muskmelons will no longer ripen? We are having highs in the 70's this October, with lows in the 50's. But a low of 37 is predicted for one evening later this week, followed by a return to the 50's lows/70's highs. Will temps in the mid/upper 30's stop the ripening process (in which case I'll pick my melons and hope for the best) or will they continue ripening up until frost?

Holly (not verified)

8 years 9 months ago

I live in Saskatchewan, Canada, and for the first time have planted cantaloupe in my raised gardens. I have two plants and 5 lovely green cantaloupes. However, we will soon be experiencing frost, and I am wondering how susceptible cantaloupes are to frost. I look forward to receiving an email with an answer. Thank you very much.

Hi, Holly: Like all melons and “water-heavy” fruit, cantaloupes are indeed susceptible to frost. You will want to cover them with blankets or towels at night to help retain the earth’s warmth and then remove same during the day so that they continue to ripen in the sun. Labor-intensive, but it can be done! Good luck and thanks for asking!

Chef Jean (not verified)

8 years 10 months ago

Cantaloupe sprinkled with fresh ground black pepper is great!

Ruth Schultz (not verified)

8 years 10 months ago

Where did the Rocky Ford cantaloupe seeds originally come from 120 years ago? Cantaloupe were not native plants.

The modern melon we know today was not imported but was created by the Burpee company who introduced this cultivar in the early 1880s. This was a different kind of melon with a net-like skin covering. It became known as the Rocky Ford melon (named for the region of Colorado). It was landowner, politician, and entrepreneur George Washington Swink who helped built the melon industry; he transformed the region by developing a canal-based irrigation system; he also introduced honeybees to the region and invented the cantaloupe crate.  Later, California and other states built up their melon business and surpassed Colorado.  
Read more: http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-0974/ANR-0974.pdf

Pat (not verified)

8 years 11 months ago

I grew cantalopes from seed. I never did this before. I didn't know when to pick it. I picked it and cut it open but is was not ripe yet. Is there anything I can do to make it ripe after already cutting it open and taking seeds out.

Once a cantaloupe is harvested off the vine, it will no longer sweeten. There are a few ways to ripen a whole cantaloupe if it was picked to soon, but not when it has been cut into. For melons already cut, you can try to get it to soften a bit by placing it in a container with a little lemon juice or orange juice. Place in the refrigerator until ready to serve (storing at room temperature can encourage bacteria). Use within a day or two.

KIM (not verified)

8 years 11 months ago

I am growing muskmelons for the first time. I got one round melon and the rest have been flat on the bottom when ripe. Any suggestions as to why this is happening?

The most common causes of misshapen melons are poor pollination and/or dry soil or high temperatures. Either one of those extreme weather conditions could have affected your fruit. And the weather could have influenced pollination: it can be (and has been) too hot to achieve effective pollination. In future, try row covers to help to shelter the plant from extreme heat without sacrificing sunlight. The cover also helps to retain moisture—but note that the cover is not a replacement for mulch.

We hope this helps.