Planting, Growing, and Pruning Hydrangea
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Planting
Most hydrangeas prefer partial sun with full sun in the morning, followed by some afternoon shade. This is especially true for the Bigleaf hydrangea (H. macrophylla). Some varieties are more tolerant of full sun. Most hydrangeas will thrive in fertile, well-draining soils that receive plenty of moisture. PennState suggests adding mulch to the soil if your soil drains too quickly. Add compost or aged manure to enrich poor soil.
When to Plant Hydrangeas
Autumn is the best time to plant hydrangeas, followed by spring. Plan to plant in the fall before the first frost or in the spring after the last frost. This shrub should have plenty of time to establish a healthy root system before the heat of summer or the extreme chill of winter, which makes the cooler shoulder seasons the best times to plant.
Plant the shrubs in the early morning or late afternoon. It’s generally cooler then, and the plant is less likely to wilt due to extreme heat.
How to Plant Hydrangeas
- Space hydrangeas anywhere from 3 to 10 feet apart, depending on the type. Always space plants based on their expected size at maturity!
- Gently remove the hydrangea from its container and inspect the root ball, snipping off any dead or rotting parts. Roberta Clark of the UMass Amherst suggests, “Before planting, check the root quality of container-grown plants and loosen the roots if they appear pot bound or to be circling the container.”
- Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and 2 to 3 times as wide. The base of the plant (where the stem meets the soil) should be level with the top of the planting hole.
- Set the plant in the hole and half-fill it with soil. Water generously. After the water is absorbed, fill the rest of the hole with soil and water again.
How to Grow Hydrangeas from Cuttings
Hydrangeas can easily be grown from cuttings. They root readily, and the process makes for a great lesson in propagation. Here’s how to do it:
- Find a new branch on a well-established hydrangea—a branch that has not flowered and bears three or more pairs of leaves. (New growth will appear lighter in color than old, and the branch will not be as rigid.)
- Cut 5 to 6 inches from the tip of the branch. Discard the bottom piece.
- If the tip cutting has at least two pairs of leaves, remove the lowest pair of leaves flush to the stem or at the node. If the remaining leaves are large, cut them in half, removing the tip half. Dust the cutting’s end with rooting hormone and, if desired, an antifungal plant powder. This will encourage rooting and discourage rotting.
- Fill a small pot with moistened potting mix. Plant the cutting, sinking it up to the first pair of remaining leaves. Water lightly to eliminate any air gaps around the stem. Cover the pot and the cutting loosely with a plastic bag (to maintain humidity). If necessary, use chopsticks or kebab skewers to prop up the bag so that it does not touch the leaves; if it touches the leaves, they might rot. Place in a warm area, sheltered from direct sunlight and wind. Water when the top layer of soil is dry.
- After a week or so, gently pull on the cutting. If you feel resistance, roots have formed. If there is no resistance, check for rotting.
Layering Hydrangeas
For bigleaf hydrangeas, in summer, dig a trench next to the plant, near a branch that easily reaches beyond the trench. Where the branch contacts the soil, remove an inch of the outer bark all around it. Bury the bared portion, pinning it with a florist’s pin or a gentle weight, leaving 6 to 12 inches of the end of the branch tip uncovered. Water regularly. In early spring, the branch should be ready to be removed from the mother plant and transplanted!
Growing
Watering Hydrangeas
- For the first 2 years after planting and during any drought, be sure your hydrangeas get plenty of water. If possible, water in the morning to prepare hydrangeas for the heat of the day and to avoid disease.
- Water at a rate of 1 inch per week throughout the growing season. Deep soaks 3 times a week (with a soaker hose or the like that keeps moisture off flowers and leaves) encourage root growth more than frequent sprinkles.
- All varieties benefit from consistent moisture, but bigleaf and smooth hydrangeas require more water. If the soil is too dry, leaves will wilt and flowering will be hampered.
- Add organic mulch underneath your hydrangeas; this will help keep the soil moist and cool, add nutrients over time, and improve soil texture.
Fertilizing Hydrangeas
Hydrangeas in rich soil seldom need fertilizer: Too much encourages leafy growth over blooms. The best way to determine your fertility needs is by using a soil test.
Apply fertilizer based on your specific hydrangeas. Each variety has different needs and will benefit from different application timing.
- Bigleaf hydrangeas can benefit from several light fertilizer applications in March, May, and June.
- Oakleaf and panicle hydrangeas do best with two applications in April and June.
- Smooth hydrangea plants only need fertilization once, in late winter.
Winter Protection
- In the fall, cover plants to a depth of at least 18 inches with bark mulch, leaves (not maple), pine needles, or straw. If at all possible, cover the entire plant, tip included, by making cages out of snow fencing or chicken wire and loosely filling the cages with leaves. (Do not use maple leaves, as they tend to mat when wet and can suffocate the plant.)
Pruning Hydrangeas
Many of our readers’ questions involve pruning hydrangeas. And no wonder—it’s confusing and depends on the variety of hydrangea. Luckily, as long as you know which type you’ve got, it’s easy to figure out what sort of pruning technique to employ. (The more common garden hydrangea shrub is the bigleaf variety) Learn the essentials below.
| Hydrangea Type | When to Prune | Where Flowers Appear |
|---|---|---|
| Bigleaf (H. macrophylla) | Summer, after flowering | On old growth |
| Oakleaf (H. quercifolia) | Summer, after flowering | On old growth |
| Panicle (H. paniculata) | Late winter, before spring growth | On new growth |
| Smooth (H. arborescens) | Late winter, before spring growth | On new growth |
| Mountain (H. serrata) | Summer, after flowering | On old growth |
| Climbing (H. anomala ssp. petiolaris) | Summer, after flowering | On old growth |
Bigleaf (H. macrophylla), oakleaf (H. quercifolia), mountain (H. serrata), and climbing hydrangeas (H. anomala spp. petiolaris) are pruned AFTER the flowers fade in the summer. These varieties bloom on the previous season’s stems (“old wood”).
- Flower buds actually form in the late summer and flower afterward in the following season, so avoid pruning after August 1.
- Only cut away dead wood in the fall or very early spring.
- To prune, cut one or two of the oldest stems down to the base to encourage branching and fullness.
- If the plant is old, neglected, or damaged, prune all of the stems down to the base. You’ll lose the flowers for the upcoming season but also rejuvenate the plant for future years.
- It’s best not to deadhead (remove faded blooms) on the big mopheads; leave them over the winter and cut them back in early spring (to the first healthy pair of buds). It’s fine to deadhead the lacecaps; cut down to the second pair of leaves below the flower head.
- When growing H. macrophylla (and H. serrata) varieties in Zones 4 and 5, do not prune unless absolutely necessary, and then do so immediately after blooming. Otherwise, remove only the dead stems in the spring.
Panicle (H. paniculata) and smooth (H. arborescens) hydrangeas are pruned BEFORE flower buds are formed. These varieties bloom on the current season’s stems (“new wood”).
- Prune in the late winter when the plant is dormant. This means that if the buds are killed during the winter, the plant will produce new buds in the spring, which will produce blooms.
- In general, prune only dead branches and do not prune to “shape” the bush.
Read more about how to prune hydrangea types.
How to Change the Color of Hydrangea Flowers
The colors of hydrangea flowers can be changed, but not instantly. Color correction takes weeks or more, and not every cultivar is changeable: White flowers are not affected by soil pH, the condition that imparts the blue and pink hues. Some bigleaf hydrangeas—especially mophead and lacecap types—and mountain hydrangea cultivars change color based on the soil pH.
Acidic soils with a pH of less than 5.5 produce blue flowers; soils with a pH greater than 6.0 produce pink flowers. Do a soil test to determine the existing pH and amend as indicated to change it.
A plant should be at least 2 years old before undergoing a pH change; this will give it time to recover from the shock of its original planting. Also, note that it’s easier to change blue flowers to pink than pink to blue.
See How to Change the Color of Hydrangea Flowers for more information.
Types
For a more detailed overview of the many types of hydrangeas, check out Hydrangea Varieties for Every Garden.
There are two main groups of hydrangeas:
Group 1: Plants that Bloom on New Growth (This Year’s Stems)
The following hydrangeas, which form their buds in early summer on new growth, will flower reliably each year, requiring no special care.
- Panicle hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata)
- ‘Grandiflora’ and ‘PeeGee’ are large old-fashioned, floppy varieties; ‘Tardiva’, ‘White Moth’, and ‘Pee Wee’ fit the scale of small gardens. ‘Limelight’ produces cool-green flowers and grows to a height of 6 to 8 feet.
- Smooth hydrangeas (H. arborescens)
- Look for the cultivars H. arborescens ‘Grandiflora’ and ‘Annabelle’, which produce many large (up to 14 inches across), tight, symmetrical blooms in late summer.
Group 2: Plants that Bloom on Old Growth (Last Year’s Stems)
If you live in Zone 8 or warmer, choose plants from this group. Gardeners in cool climate zones will find many of them a challenge, because they set flower buds in the fall. Although hardy to Zones 4 and 5, the buds are prone to damage by an early frost in fall, a late frost in spring, or excessively cold temperatures when dormant in winter. This, along with untimely pruning, can result in inconsistent or no flowering.
- Oakleaf hydrangeas (H. quercifolia)
- You can expect an exceptional fall color from ‘Snow Queen’, ‘Snow Flake’, and ‘Alice’.
- Bigleaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla)
- We love ‘All Summer Beauty’ (mophead), which has profuse, dark blue flowers that turn pinker in soils with near-neutral pH. If buds are winter-killed, the plant will form new ones in spring and still bloom.
- ‘Nikko Blue’ (mophead) is vigorous, with large, rounded, blue flowers.
- ‘Blue Wave’ (lacecap) produces rich blue to mauve or lilac-blue to pink flowers.
- ‘Color Fantasy’ (mophead) has reddish or deep purple flowers and shiny, dark green leaves. It grows to about 3 feet tall.
- Mountain hydrangeas (H. serrata)
- ‘Bluebird’ and ‘Diadem’ are early bloomers. In acidic soil, ‘Preziosa’ produces blossoms of an extraordinary blend of pale shades of blue, mauve, violet, and green.
- Climbing hydrangeas (H. anomala ssp. Petiolaris)
- ‘Firefly’ boasts variegated foliage.
Harvesting
Cut fully mature hydrangea flowers in the morning after you have watered the plant.
Immediately place fresh stems in cold water to prevent wilting.
- Recut the woody stems at a slant underwater.
- Remove the lower leaves on the stems.
- Arrange them in a vase and place them in a cool location, out of direct sunlight.
- Check the water level and quality daily. Change the water if it becomes cloudy.
- Mist the blooms with water. Soak wilting blooms in cool water for 10 to 15 minutes to revive them.
Use dried hydrangea flowers to create a wreath or other decorations around the house:
- Cut the flower heads when the flowers have matured and developed a papery consistency.
- Remove leaves from stems, and hang them upside down in a warm, dry, dark, airy room.
- When completely dry (usually a couple of weeks), store in a dry location out of direct sunlight.
- To enhance flower color, spritz dry flowers with diluted fabric dye.
Here are four alternative ways to dry and preserve your flowers.
Catherine Boeckmann
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hydrangeas blossom but never open up hardly at all to bloom....what am I doing wrong? Plants look healthy but blossoms don't open, the plants are probably 6 years old, moved them last spring to get more sun and still no blooms.
Do you know if you have lace cap or mophead hydrageas? The lace cap produce “flowers” that consist of teeny, tiny flowers surrounded (more or less) by substantially larger, usually four-petal flowers. Mopheads have the large balls of same-size flowers. If that’s not what you’re dealing with, we can only suggest this: It could be as simple as too much shade or too much sun. It could be too much fertilizer, esp high nitrogen fertilizer, which will result in beautiful foliage but few if any flowers. It could be too much moisture—or too little moisture. And, how is the pH of the soil?? Have they got enough compost? There may not be a good, solid explanation, but moving them to a different “environment” will at least give you a point of comparison. Also, the blooming of hydrangeas is affected by how they have been pruned, which depends on the type of hydrangea. Some bloom on second-year wood, others on the current year’s growth. Not knowing the type you have or how it has been pruned, I can’t say for sure why it isn’t blooming.
WILL SPRAYING HYDRANGEAS WITH EPSON SALT & WATER MAKE THEM BLOOM MORE?
Just bought two plants on markdown. Both have tiny black spots on stems. I sprayed with dish soap and vinegar. What can I do to save them?
This has come up; here is our suggestion from below: There are a few different fungal diseases that can cause spotting on hydrangea leaves, including black spot, powdery mildew, and cercospora. They will not kill the shrub, but it is good to try to control spread. Treating any of them includes removing diseased leaves from the plant and the soil. Once the soil surface is clean, put down (and maintain) a very thick layer of compost mulch to suppress disease spores, which are airborne. Then, follow instructions on how and when to apply neem oil.
My new leaves are browning on the ends. Some of the older leaves too. What am I doing wrong? Help?
Usually, this is a moisture issue. Sometimes, the plant can be root-bound, too. Gently dig the plants early in the morning to check for both conditions. If needed, lightly loosen the roots with your hand. You can also soak the root ball in water until it’s moistened through. Make sure you maintain uniform moisture for your hydrangeas.
Location can also be an issue. If they’re getting sun burnt, they’d do better with light shade.
A landscaper planted 12 Hydrangeas for me last June 2016.....beautiful most of last summer..... and now they are not showing much life {only few green leaves at base of plant}...just all bare sticks.....It looks as if they were not planted all the way into the ground... .could that be the problem? By now they should be full of green leaves and buds and getting ready to bloom.....Suggestions??
How unfortunate! One question is whether your hydrangea is alive. Do the “scratch test.” If you scratch a stick with your fingernail and it’s green underneath, it’s still alive; if it’s brown, it’s dead. We also suggestion that you direct your question to the landscaper. Ask him what variety these plants are and what you should expect. Did he make a one-year guarantee of the plants? Some nurseries have a replacement policy of one year, if the plant/s appear to have failed for some reason.
I planted 4 hydrangia "bushes" about 7 years ago, not realizing that the size would grow to be 5-6 ft tall ( they are the large drooping white kind of flowers). I would like to move them as they are too large for the space. How deep are the roots usually and how difficult would that process be?
