Planting, Growing, and Caring for Gladiolus
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Planting
For the best blooms, plant glads in full sun (6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day) in well-drained soil that’s moderately fertile. They will not do well in heavy, soggy soil. Mix compost (humus) into your soil to improve consistency and fertility.
When to Plant Gladiolus
- Start planting gladiolus corms in the spring once the danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed to at least 55°F (13°C). See your local frost dates here.
- From your last frost date to early summer, plant another round of corms every ten days or so. This will result in continuous blooms through early fall!
- Depending on the variety, it takes between 60 and 90 days from the time glads are planted for the corms to root, grow, and bloom.
How to Plant Gladiolus
- Ready your garden by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to about 12 to 15 inches deep. After loosening the soil, mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost or aged manure.
- To ensure large-sized blooms, plant corms that are 1¼ inch or larger in diameter.
- Set the corm in the hole about 4 inches deep with the pointed end facing up. Cover with soil and press firmly.
- Space the corms 6 to 8 inches apart.
- If you grow gladioli primarily for cut flowers, plant them in rows. It’s easier to tend the plants and to harvest the flowers.
- If planted with other flowers in borders or annual beds, plant the corms in groups of 7 or more for the best effect.
- Water the corms thoroughly at planting.
- If you’re planting tall varieties, be sure to stake them at planting time. Be careful not to damage the corms with the stakes.
Growing
How to Grow Gladiolus
- Put a 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch around your gladioli to keep your soil moist and help prevent weeds.
- If you get less than 1 inch of rain a week, water your plants regularly throughout the summer. Otherwise, water them moderately when they are growing to keep the soil moist.
- Remove the faded/dead flowers to ensure continuous blooms. Once all the flowers on a stalk are gone, cut the stalk off at about 2 to 3 inches above the soil.
- Be sure to leave the plant intact so it can mature and grow the corms for the next season.
Winter Protection for Gladiolus
- If you live in USDA Hardiness Zone 8 or warmer, put down a layer of hay or straw for winter protection. Gladiolus can remain in the ground through winter, provided a hard freeze (28°F or colder) isn’t common in your area.
- In colder regions (Zone 7 or colder), dig up gladioli corms once the foliage has faded after the first fall frost. A light frost will kill the foliage but not the rest of the plant. Be sure to dig up the gladiolus corms before a hard freeze (28°F), or the plants could be fatally damaged.
- All that said, many gardeners who live in the “border” zones 6 and 7 have tried leaving them glads in the ground and found that they survived; this is a judgment call based on your microclimate, your variety of gladiolus, and climate shifts.
Digging Up and Storing Gladioli Corms
To dig up the gladioli corms for winter storage, follow these tips:
- Use a spade and dig up the entire plant, grasping the top to pull it out of the soil. Avoid bruising or injuring corms while digging. Shake off all loose soil (do not wash them off) and discard damaged corms. Cut the stalk down to 1 to 2 inches above the corm. Save the small cormels separately if you so desire. These will bloom in 2 to 3 years if you replant them each spring.
- Allow the corms to dry in the sun for 1 or 2 days if the weather agrees. Sift out excess soil and place corms in wooden flats or trays. Cure in a warm and airy location for 2-3 weeks. Remove and throw away the oldest bottom corms (from the base of the new ones).
- Don’t remove the husks on the corms.
- Dust the corms with a fungicide (“bulb dust”) to avoid disease problems. Place dust and bulbs in a paper bag and shake vigorously.
- Store the corms in paper or cloth bags, pantyhose, or old onion sacks. Stack or hang the containers so air can move among them. Store the corms at 35 to 45°F (2 to 7°C) in low humidity. A cool basement is quite suitable. Do not allow corms to freeze.
- Replant these corms in the spring for another year of beautiful blooms.
Learn more tips for storing gladiolus through the winter.
Gladioli come in a variety of sizes and colors, with the most popular being part of the following hybrid groups:
- Grandiflora Hybrids: These are the classic gladioli that produce a plentiful amount of large (5- to 6-inch) blooms in a range of colors. The plants produce flower stalks that reach up to 4 feet in height and are winter hardy to Zone 7.
- Dwarf Grandiflora Hybrids: These miniature glads are an excellent choice for containers and cutting gardens, as their flowers are about half the size of Grandifloras, and their shorter stalks don’t typically require staking. They are also winter hardy to Zone 7. Glamini gladioli are included in this group; they are pest-resistant and will bloom in full sun or partial shade.
- Nanus Hybrids: Hardy to Zone 5, these smaller gladioli look a lot like Grandifloras, but do not produce as many flowers. They tend to grow no larger than about 2 feet in height, which makes them perfect for containers or small spaces.
Some specific gladiolus varieties of note include:
- ‘Black Star,’ which has deep purple-red blooms
- ‘Candyman,’ for its beautiful, deep pink flowers
- ‘Costa,’ which sports ruffled flowers in blue-purple
- ‘Dream’s End,’ which makes a good background plant because its flower spike is up to 3 feet tall (and it has pretty light orange flowers with large yellow centers)
- ‘Fun Time,’ which has yellow flowers edged with red
- ‘Green Time,’ for its unusual lime-green flowers
- ‘Prins Claus,’ which has white flowers with splashes of pink on its petals
- ‘Priscilla,’ which produces off-white flowers with a yellow center and a pink edge
Harvesting
To cut glads for bouquets, follow these tips:
- Cut the flower stalks early in the morning or at night, not during the heat of the day.
- Use a sharp knife and bring a bucket of lukewarm water to the flower bed; cut diagonally through the stalks and place in the bucket.
- Cut stalks with only one or two open flowers. The rest of the buds will open after you put them in a vase. Leave at least four leaves on the plant in the ground if you want to reuse the corms.
- Place the bucket with the flowers in a cool dark place for a few hours before arranging them in a vase.
- Remove lower fading flowers and cut about 1 inch off the bottom of each flower stalk every few days.
Catherine Boeckmann
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I planted about 20 corms a couple of years ago and only a few came up and have continued to come up, this is their 3rd season. I noticed this year that a couple of the plants seem like they have another plant growing directly next to it. Do Glads produce additional corms and if so, do they need separated like other bulb plants?
Hi Paula,
Yes, that is new growth (called a cormlet or cormel)—and a sign of healthy, happy glads! They are next year’s root stock. Gladiolus grow from new corms that form on top of the old corm, which dies after a year.
I live on the coast of Washington State. In April or May, (can't remember exactly when) I planted about 30 corms, in individual holes, along the sunny edge of my back deck. Each hole was filled with Miracle Grow planting soil and about a teaspoon of bone meal. Its now the middle of July and all I have are leaves, varying from 12-24" high. no evidence of stalks or flowers. Any ideas?
Hi Ted,
I wonder if they were planted too deep and/or the corms are too wet. Once the foliage dies back this year, dig and reset them for next year. They should be 3 to 5 inches deep.
Hello:
I have three dozen glad bulbs that were intended for planting this spring. We needed to dig up a water line and so garden planting in this location was put on hold. We are located in Hardiness zone 5b.
Should I try to plant these now in mid-July or can I just keep them and plant them next spring? If this is the better option, please advise how best to store the corns/bulbs between now and spring 2017.
Thank you.
Hi Jean (and JB),
At this point in the season, it would probably be best to store them for planting next spring. Cut off any remaining foliage and make sure corms are good and dry. Cure them for two weeks in a warm, airy location. Then, remove the small cormels, keeping the largest of the corms. Tie them into a mesh sack in a well-ventilated room kept at a consistent temperature somewhere between 35 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit. They should be good to go next year!
I have EXACTLY the same question!
We want to dig up a few of our plants to share with a friend, who will share some theirs (different colors than we have). When/how do we do this?
Hi Ginny,
Wait about six weeks after the plants are done blooming. Then, use a spade fork to gently loosen and lift the soil around the corms (be mindful not to puncture them). Pull them out, give them a rinse, let them dry in the sun, and swap away!
why are my flowers dying as soon as they bloom,and why are the stalks leaning over and breaking,is there a certain way to plant,mine are at the end of my yard in a straight line ,should they be planted more of a bush like plant
