Planting, Growing, and Caring for Irises
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Planting
Irises bloom best in full sun, meaning at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight daily. They can tolerate as little as half a day of sun, but it’s not ideal. Without enough light, they won’t bloom well. Bearded irises must not be shaded out by other plants; many do best in a special bed.
Provide well-draining, fertile, neutral to slightly acidic soil. Loosen the soil to 12 to 15 inches deep, then mix in compost or aged manure. Good drainage is critical: Irises prefer “wet feet, but dry knees.” They will not tolerate wet soil in winter. Learn more about preparing the soil for planting and organic soil amendments.
When to Plant Irises
- Plant most irises in late summer to early fall, when nighttime temperatures remain between 40° and 50°F (4° and 10°C) or above. This gives them plenty of time to get established before the coming winter.
- Tall bearded iris varieties are best planted closer to fall because they tend to go dormant in early to mid-summer.
- If you receive bare rhizomes or irises in a container at some point earlier in the year, plant them as soon as possible. It’s better to get them in the ground rather than wait until the “ideal” time.
How to Plant Irises
- Plant bare-root rhizomes (the thick stems) horizontally, with the top exposed and only the roots underground. In areas with particularly hot summers, set the rhizome just below the soil surface.
- Dig a hole 10 inches in diameter and 4 inches deep. Make a ridge of soil down the middle and place the rhizome on the ridge, spreading the roots down both sides. Fill in the hole and firm it gently, leaving part of the rhizome and the foliage uncovered.
- Plant singly or in groups of three, 1 to 2 feet apart, depending on the fully grown plant’s size.
- Soak Siberian iris rhizomes in water overnight before planting, then set them 1 inch deep (2 inches, if the soil is sandy), 2 feet apart. Over a period of years, they will form clumps; divide when blooms get smaller and vigor declines.
- Do not mulch around the rhizome, as this may encourage rot.
- Water thoroughly.
Growing
How to Grow Irises
- In the early spring, remove winter mulch and old foliage to allow for fresh growth.
- Fertilize in early spring, scratching an all-purpose fertilizer around the plants. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers. Reblooming irises perform best if fertilized again after the first wave of flowering is finished.
- Do not overwater irises; too much moisture in the soil can cause the rhizomes to rot. Water consistently and deeply, especially during summer drought.
- Keep rhizomes exposed. Unlike bulbs, which thrive deep underground, bearded iris rhizomes need a bit of sun and air to dry them out. If they’re covered with soil or crowded by other plants, they’ll rot.
- Taller irises may need staking, or they will fall over.
- Deadhead (remove spent blooms) consistently. Bearded Irises flower sequentially on buds spaced along the stems.
- After blooming is finished, cut flower stems down to their base to discourage rhizome rot, but do NOT trim the iris’ leaves. The plant’s foliage carries on with photosynthesis and generates energy for next year’s growth and flowers. Only prune off brown leaf tips, if desired.
- After a hard frost in the fall, cut foliage back hard, remove any foliage that appears spotted or yellowed, and dispose of all debris in the trash.
- If iris foliage is hit with heavy frost, remove and destroy it to eliminate borer eggs. See your local frost dates.
- For winter protection, cover the rhizomes with an inch or two of sand topped with a light layer of evergreen boughs, applied after the ground freezes and removed when the forsythias bloom in the following spring.
- Iris borer, a common iris pest, overwinters as eggs in spent leaves. Signs include vertical streaks in the leaves. If apparent, look for the pests and squash them! If you see rot in the rhizome, dig it up and remove the affected parts. See pest tips below.
Dividing Irises
Over time, it’s not unusual for plantings of irises to become overcrowded, which causes the rhizomes to lose vitality and stop blooming. When this happens (usually every 2 to 5 years), it’s time to divide and replant healthy rhizomes in fresh soil.
When to divide? Do this task after flowering finishes, and then trim the foliage back to six inches.
- Shortly after blooming (usually around midsummer), carefully dig up (lift) the clump of irises. You’ll find that the original rhizome that you planted (the “mother”) has produced several offshoot rhizomes.
- Separate these rhizomes from the mother with a sharp knife and discard the mother, as it will no longer produce blooms.
- Inspect the rhizomes for any rotting tissue, soft spots, or other signs of disease, removing and discarding infected parts or entire unhealthy rhizomes.
- Plant these fresh rhizomes in a new bed, replant them where they were before (after adding new soil), or share them with friends and spread the joy of irises!
The tall bearded irises, Iris germanica, come in many flamboyant colors. They are generally planted in the fall. Rebloomers (remontant) varieties include:
- ‘Immortality’: fragrant white flowers that appear in early summer and again in late summer; hardy to Zone 4
- ‘Feed Back’: fragrant dark purple flowers; Zones 4 to 9
- ‘Earl of Essex’: white flowers, with purple edging; Zones 3 to 10
- ‘Jennifer Rebecca’: mauve pink flowers; Zones 4 to 9
Credit: Pixabay
Siberian irises, I. sibirica, also come in a range of colors. They have a more delicate beauty than the stately bearded irises, but are equally as rugged. They also tend to be more pest and disease resistant.
- ‘Blueberry Fair’: ruffled blue flowers; Zones 3 to 8
- ‘Fond Kiss’: white flowers with pink flush; Zones 3 to 8
Credit: Pixabay.
Japanese irises, I. ensata, bear huge, flat blooms. These heavy feeders thrive on moisture during the growing season and do well around ponds; move to drier ground for fall and winter.
- ‘Coho’: pink flowers with golden flush; Zones 4 to 9
- ‘Variegata’: dark purple-reddish flowers; Zones 4 to 9
Credit: Pixabay.
Catherine Boeckmann
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I purchased an iris and the large rhizome is rotting but has smaller plants attached. Can I cut them off and plant them ? Also is there something I can treat them with?
It’s not unusual for the central, or main, rhizome to lose its vigor after having developed “baby” rhizomes beside/attached to it. So, yes, you can discard it. If you are dividing the remaining cluster, see below (the next Q/A) for specific guidance.
Our irises grow long stalks and have blooms. Just as soon as they bloom, then they all fall down. Why? They do this year after year.
There may be a few reasons for this:
• the clump needs to be divided; this is best done in/around late July: Cut foliage back two-thirds, leaving a short fan of leaves. Lift the rhizomes and remove/cut off any rot. Using a sharp, clean knife, cut the rhizome, making sure it has some leaf fan and roots attached. Replant, covering with 1/2 inch of soil. If the central portion of the rhizome has no root or foliage, discard it.
• shade on one side causes them to reach for sun and so lean, eventually falling.
• fertilizer high in nitrogen has been provided; this cases foliage growth at the cost of flowers.
Can one brew the leaves for tea? I have purple irises and they smell like root beer!
Hi Alicia,
The leaves of irises are toxic to humans and so should not be made into tea. It may seem enticing when a leaf or flower smells like something else that is edible, but never eat anything that you cannot completely guarantee is not poisonous.
I am not sure what type of flower this is, it looks like an iris , but not like others. I dont know how to upload a picture, but it is my profile on facebook.
Is a seed pre-emergent indicated for an iris bed? I keep weeding out the iris bed, but inevitably seeds of weeds end up in the ground, and weeds grow all over again. I was thinking of putting some kind of seed pre-emergent like Preen on the ground in between the irises ... Any advise or experience? Thank you.
Mulch is the most common recommendation for controlling weeds in iris beds. No more than 2 inches to avoid disease problems. But there are herbicides, if you want to use them. We would noto would normally send you to the coop extension service page (and we will) but we found that the University of Georgia service has the information clearly arranged; see here: http://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.cfm?number=C867-8
To contact the cooperative extension service nearest you for more or, possibly, other information, click here and choose your state: http://www.almanac.com/content/cooperative-extension-services
Thank you for your help! Will do!
