Grow vibrant, heat-loving okra for a tasty, easy-to-harvest summer crop
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Okra isn’t just for gumbo anymore! This Southern staple is showing up in gardens everywhere, and for good reason. It’s easy to grow, fun to harvest, and comes with tropical-looking flowers that would make a hibiscus blush. Whether you’re a seasoned grower or okra-curious, we’ve got all the tips to help you grow it like a garden rockstar. Let’s get planting!
About Okra
Many gardeners are discovering okra, and the range of this warm-weather crop has been creeping northward and gaining in popularity. This plant not only grows edible vegetables and beautiful flowers, but it is also rich in vitamin A and low in calories, which makes it a great addition to your diet.
If you look at the flower of okra, you’ll see a resemblance to a hibiscus flower. It’s no coincidence—okra is a member of the hibiscus family!
Growing
- Eliminate weeds when the plants are young, then mulch heavily—4 to 8 inches—to prevent more weeds.
- During the growing season, Joseph Masabni of Texas A&M recommends that you “cultivate around the okra plants to remove weeds and grass. To avoid damaging the okra roots, pull weeds close to the plants by hand.”
- Side-dress the plants with 10-10-10, aged manure, or rich compost (1/2 pound per 25 feet of row). You could also apply a balanced liquid fertilizer monthly. Avoid too much nitrogen, which deters flowering and encourages leafy growth. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
- When the seedlings are about 3 inches tall, thin the plants so that they are 18 to 24 inches apart.
- Keep the plants well watered throughout the summer months. One inch of water per week is ideal, but use more if you are in a hot, arid region.
- High heat can slow the growth of okra.
- Prune the tops of okra plants when they reach 5 to 6 feet tall. This will result in more side branches. Prune those as needed.
- In warm regions, some growers cut plants to about 2 feet when productivity slows in summer. The plants grow back and produce another crop of okra.
Note: Okra has large, hairy leaves, as well as tiny spines on its pods, both of which may cause skin irritation; consider wearing gloves and/or long sleeves when handling. “Spineless” types have pods that don’t present this problem. Regardless of type, irritation does not occur when you eat okra.
Types
Standard varieties can top 8 feet or more! Dwarf types, which seldom exceed 5 feet in height, are best for containers.
- ‘Blondy’: spineless; dwarf at 3 feet tall; 3-inch pale green pods; ideal for northern growers
- ‘Burgundy’: abundant 6- to 8-inch pods (harvest at 3 inches) on 3- to 5-foot-tall plants; edible ornamental, with deep red stem, branches, leaf ribs, and fruit
- ‘Cajun Jewel’: dwarf at 2 1/2 to 4 feet tall; tasty 8-inch pods up to 1 inch in diameter
- ‘Clemson Spineless’: tasty 6 1/2-inch to 9-inch pods on 4-foot tall plants
- ‘Louisiana Green Velvet’: spineless; vigorous to 6 feet tall; good for large areas
Harvesting
When you harvest okra, get out the gloves and wear a long-sleeved shirt to protect yourself from the tiny spines that can make your hands and arms itch for days.
- Once okra is ripe, harvest every day! The pods grow so fast and ripen within a day, so you need to pick continually. Overripe okra is too tough to eat.
- The best pods are only 2 to 4 inches long. This is when okra is at its softest and most digestible.
- Cut the stem just above the cap with a knife. If the stem is too hard to cut, the pod is probably too old and should be tossed.
- Only one pod grows beneath each leaf, so break off the leaf after harvesting the pod.
- Harvest often: The more you pick, the more flowers will appear, and okra goes from flowering to fruit in a few days.
- A severe freeze can damage pods. If one is predicted and pods are drying on the plant for seeds, cut the plant and hang it indoors to dry. Put a paper bag over it so if the pods shatter, the seeds will not be lost.
In the South, regular okra plants can get too tall to harvest; if this happens, cut them back to 12 to 18 inches above the ground. This is usually done in July or August. The plants will sprout again to make a second crop. Otherwise, consider a dwarf variety!
How to Store Okra
- To store okra, put the uncut and uncooked pods into freezer bags and keep them in the freezer. Or wash and blanch okra before freezing.
- Or, can okra to have it throughout the winter.
Cooking Notes
Okra can be consumed in a number of ways—breaded and deep-fried, pickled, stewed (in Indian cuisine), air-fried (a reader favorite), and even raw in the field! Of course, the most famous okra dish is probably gumbo.
For a nice stewy dish, simmer fresh tomatoes and onions and perhaps some pre-fried bacon pieces. Add chopped okra. On the stove, cook for 25 minutes, and the soft insides of okra will help create a nice thick, savory broth to serve over rice.
Or, try roasting okra to bring out its natural nuttiness. Just remove the cap, split lengthwise, and roast on a baking sheet for 25 minutes; we cover with aluminum foil for the first half of cooking.
Catherine Boeckmann
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I live in South Florida and it is my first time growing Emerald, Louisiana velvet, and crimson spineless. The summers are extremely hot which is supposed to be amazing weather for okra. I planted two seeds in each pot in the far corners and some with one seed in the center. Lately, I have been noticing that my Okras seems to be stunted they are no longer growing and the leaves seem to be turning yellow. I am not sure whether it is the soil I choose to use or if it is the amount of water I am giving them weakly.
Conditions are amazing for growing anything if conditions are right. Yellow leaves and stunted growth are signs of fusarium root or stem rot. That’s typically a sign of “bad” soil. Was your soil “new” or used? If you were growing in the ground, we would recommend crop rotation.
If you have any more seeds, and want to try again, empty and sterilize the pots. Use new soil‚ rich in organic matter and slighhtly sandy (so it’s not too dense). Presoak the seeds before planting. (Some say freeze it to break the hard shell; can’t recommend that, never tried it.)
Better luck this next time—
The soil I used for the contained garden had POTTING SOIL W/ AIR-LITE AND PINE FINES: COMPOSTED HORSE MANURE, WOOD CHIPS, SAND, MUCK, AIR-LITE, AND PINE FINE SHAVINGS does that sound like a good mixture? It is my first time as a Gardener so I did not want to go to Wal-Mart or Home depot for soil instead I went to my local Garden shop where it was presented as "fresh" to my Knowledge. However for my main garden my Okras came up nicely nicely and I only added compost, horse manure and earthworm casting fertilizer to my sandy soil. I am trying to stay more organic as I possibly can. Even though the bug may be coming pretty soon.
Thank you very much by the way for replying your advise is highly needed.
We appreciate that you appreciate our advice. Please understand that, from a distance like this, we don’t have all the answers. Every situation is unique. Hearing that you had success with okra in the ground, with soil amended as you say, suggests that maybe you should have done the same—used the same soil—in the pots. If you have seeds, that may be an option.
Going back to your original problem, the okra are stunted and the leaves are turning yellow. We suggested that you might have fusarium root or stem rot. Here we are a few days later … still the same? You might be better off starting all over. We can’t comment on the soil you bought as good for this purpose (maybe the vendor can). If this was me/us, and we had a couple/few seeds remaining, we would start over, using soil that has proven successful—the mix that you used in the ground-growing plants.
Clearlly you know what you’re doing, if you had success; the aim is to repeat it … so do the same thing.
We really hope this helps. Gardening is somewhat trial and error, no matter what the gardener’s experience level (that includes me/us).
Thank you again for the advice.
Any thoughts on growing okra in the same square foot bed as potatoes?
Okra has been grown with sweet potatoes, but I couldn’t find information about planting with regular potatoes. If you want to try, make sure that you plant the taller okra so that they won’t shade out the potatoes, which also like full sun. Potatoes will require hilling, so provide enough space to do so. The two plants are in separate families, so that should help with certain pests and diseases.
Do you wash the okra before storing them in plastic bags for freezing
I would. Pat dry. I also slice before freezing as I fry them later on. Can't cut them after they are frozen very well.
You should wash, then blanch the okra before freezing.
