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How to Grow Zucchini & Summer Squash: Planting, Care & Harvest Tips

Photo Credit
Getty Images
Botanical Name
Cucurbita spp.
Plant Type
Vegetables
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Soil pH
Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Bloom Time
Summer
Flower Color
Orange
Yellow
Cummins

Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Zucchini & Summer Squash

Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Ever found a giant zucchini hiding under a leaf like it’s trying to win “Vegetable Hide-and-Seek”? You’re not alone. Zucchini and summer squash are famously productive—and delightfully sneaky! Whether you’re dreaming of crispy sautéed slices or a freezer full of zucchini bread, this guide will walk you through growing these summer staples from seed to squash. Get ready for a harvest that just might overrun your kitchen (in the best way).

About Zucchini

Note that squash is generally divided into two categories: summer squash (harvested in summer) and winter squash (harvested in autumn). The skin of summer squash is edible, unlike the skin of winter squash. Most summer squashes now come in bush varieties, which take up less space, whereas winter squashes are vining plants that need more space. 

Zucchini are warm-season crops with compact, bushy, or trailing varieties to pick from. Compact types are suitable for containers—indeed, anywhere you don’t have a lot of space—while trailing types may be trained as climbers to grow up supports such as a trellis or wire mesh.

Buy Seeds Now

Green zucchini are always going to be popular, but try a few of their more charismatic cousins as well, including varieties with yellow fruits, striped or ribbed fruits, and even round fruits.

This guide focuses on summer squash. Summer squash varieties include zucchini, yellow squash (straightneck squash), and crookneck squash. Note: All types of summer squash require very similar care, so even though we mainly refer to zucchini on this page, consider it to be applicable to whatever summer squash variety you’re growing!

Zucchini is a vigorous grower. While each plant will produce several squash during peak season, you’ll typically find that one or two zucchini plants will produce a “bumper” (unusually large) crop, leaving you to give the squash away to neighbors or bake lots of zucchini bread!

zucchini squash growing in a garden
Image: Alvintus/Getty Images

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Planting

Zucchini are members of the squash family, so they need to be bathed in warmth and sunshine to thrive. Shelter them from strong winds, too, so bees and other insects can go about pollinating the flowers in peace.

Pick a location with full sun, shelter from the wind for good pollination, and soil that is moist (not soggy) and well-draining. Squash also produces nicely if well-fed. Mix aged manure and/or compost into the soil before planting. Learn more about preparing soil for planting.

Their robust growth and big leaves make them hungry feeders. Add plenty of garden compost or well-rotted manure to the soil before planting. In fact, you can even plant zucchini on top of a compost heap—if you won’t be needing it till fall, that is.

Or prepare planting pockets: a few weeks before planting, dig out a hole, fill it with compost, then return some of the soil, along with a handful of organic fertilizer. The nutrient-rich filling will prove a veritable feast for the plants growing in it!

When to Plant Zucchini

  • Wait to plant seeds or transplants in the ground until the soil is at least 65° to 70°F. This may be mid-spring for some regions, but often, it’s fine to plant by late spring. (Don’t start too early, as the seeds will not germinate in the cold, and you’ll do the plant no favors.)
  • Direct-sow seeds (i.e., directly into the ground) when all danger of frost has passed, and the air and soil are at least 60ºF. See your last frost date.
  • If you wish to start seeds indoors, start seeds in peat pots 2 to 4 weeks before your last spring frost; note that squash seedlings do not always transplant well; handle the roots gently. Fill pots or plug trays with potting mix and sow one seed per pot or plug on its edge. They will germinate quickest with a little warmth, but so long as you can guarantee a frost-free environment, they’ll eventually push through.
  • Warm the soil with black plastic and mulch once the soil has been prepared in early spring.
  • Do not rush to plant zucchini. Consider planting a few seeds in midsummer to avoid problems from squash vine borers and other early-season pests and diseases.

How to Plant Zucchini

  • Direct sow seeds in level ground 1 inch deep and 2 to 3 inches apart.
  • Or, sow 3 or 4 seeds close together in small mounds (or hills; the soil is warmer off the ground) in rows 3 to 6 feet apart.
  • If necessary, use row covers, or plastic milk jugs, or cold frame protection in cold climates for the first few weeks of spring.
  • Thoroughly water after planting.
  • Adding a layer on top of mulch (such as garden compost) to lock in soil moisture.
  • You can also sow into seed flats or trays to separate out and pot on after germination. Do this as soon after germination, as you’re able to handle the seedlings before the roots become entangled. Fill your pots and, holding the seedling by its leave, not the stem, feed in the potting mix around the sides. Firm in and water.

See our video showing how to grow the perfect zucchini every time!

 

Growing

  • Mulch to discourage weeds, retain moisture, and protect shallow roots.
  • Zucchini thrive in moist soil. Water thoroughly, frequently, and consistently, with at least 1 inch per week. Water diligently when fruit form and throughout their growth cycle. The soil needs to be moist 4 inches down, so long soakings are best. Misshapen squash results from inadequate water or fertilization.
  • Keep your zucchini well-watered, and top up mulches occasionally to help lock in soil moisture for longer. Plants tend to produce only male flowers at first, and pollination can also be slow to start, particularly in cool or damp weather.
  • Remove any weeds that manage to poke through. To keep plants tidy, cut off any dead or shriveling weeds. Top up mulches, using organic matter, such as garden compost, to help roots stay cool and moist.
  • When the first blooms appear, side-dress with a balanced fertilizer.
  • Poor pollination by bees can be an issue. If not pollinated, squash flowers will not bear fruit or will only bear small fruit. Most squash plants produce both male (these appear first, on long thin stalks) and female flowers (these have an immature fruit behind them). To fruit, pollen from the male flowers must be transferred to the female flowers by bees—or by the gardener. Pollinate the female flowers manually with a cotton swab or add plants that attract bees near the squash.

Growing Zucchini and Summer Squash in Containers

The ever-increasing numbers of compact varieties suited for containers provide options for any taste and space. Bush plants are generally better suited to containers, but in a large pot with space to spread, vining squashes can produce a successful harvest.

Prepare a 5-gallon or 14-inch-diameter pot with rich potting mix for each variety of squash that you want to grow. When the soil temperature reaches around 70°F, or 2 weeks after the last frost date, direct-sow two seeds of the same variety 1 inch deep into the container and water to dampen. (Transplant homegrown or purchased seedlings if you want to jump-start the growing season.) Following germination, remove the weaker plant by cutting its stem; this is less disturbing to the roots. Water regularly to keep the soil moist. If you’re growing vining squashes, insert a trellis into the container for the plant to climb later.

About 6 weeks after the seeds have been planted, apply fertilizer. After the first true leaves appear (those after the initial two), apply a slow-release pellet fertilizer, according to the label’s directions. Follow up with a weekly dose of balanced fertilizer, based on the label’s guidance for the pot size. When watering, avoid getting water on the leaves. Water the soil 1 inch per week directly or set the container in a bucket or tub of water and allow it to be absorbed. As the plants grow, train the vines (if that type) onto a trellis or other support. Use string to gently secure them.

Types

  • ‘Cashflow’: cylindrical zucchini type
  • ‘Cocozella (di Napoli)’: zucchini heirloom; dark green, slender
  • ‘Goldbar’: yellow summer squash
  • ‘Horn of Plenty’: yellow crookneck type
  • ‘Sunburst’: pattypan/scallop type
  • ‘Tigress’: zucchini type

Harvesting

Harvest summer squash when tender and a bit immature (6 to 8 inches long) for more flavor. Believe us, oversize squash has very little taste. Many people wait too long to harvest. If you have ever had a negative experience with zucchini before, it’s probably because they were left to become bruisers.

  • Most varieties average 60 days to maturity, and are ready as soon as a week after flowering. (Check the seed packet for more exact information.)
  • Cut (do not break) fruit off the vine with a sharp knife, or you risk damaging the soft stem of the plant. Leave at least 1 inch of stem on the fruit.
  • To slow production, harvest fruit when small and/or remove male flowers.
  • If the harvest is interrupted (say, by your vacation), remove large squash on your return to reduce demands on the plants for moisture and nutrients.
  • Complete the harvest before the first fall frost; summer squash is highly susceptible to frost and heat damage.

In fact, the flowers make good eating too, typically stuffed or simply battered and then fried. But only pick the male flowers—the ones without a bulge behind them—or else you won’t get any fruit!

How to Store Zucchini

  • Fresh summer squash has a relatively short shelf life. Store unwashed zucchini in a plastic or paper bag with one end open to encourage air circulation, and pop them in the refrigerator crisper drawer. They’ll keep for 10 days.
  • Too much zucchini? Freeze it! It will keep for 3 months. See how to blanch and store zucchini in the freezer!

zucchini blossoms

Gardening Products

Pests/Diseases

Zucchini produces well, but you MUST keep an eye on the plant for pests. If you ignore zucchini, the pests will come, but you must get ahead of them before they arrive.

Pests
Two troublemakers often pay an unwelcome visit, usually early in the season. 

  1. Squash bugs feed on sap, weakening plants and threatening fruit production. Protect plants when the bugs are most active, early on in the summer, by using row covers or fleece. Then continue to check for eggs at least twice a week. Rub or scrape off the eggs. Adult bugs can be knocked or shaken off plants into a bucket of soapy water. (If you keep chickens, offer them a treat!)
  2. Squash vine borers are found in the eastern half of North America. They burrow into stems, causing them to rot and foliage to wilt. They are most active earlier in the summer. Row covers can help keep them off, or wrap stems in foil to prevent eggs from being laid at the base of plants. It’s possible to cut the grubs out by making vertical cuts into the stem using a sharp knife. Once you’re done, bury the stem with moist soil to encourage new roots.

Here’s a helpful squash borer tip from reader James W: “No prevention is perfect. What I do is to start another zucchini indoors for planting after July 1st in Zone 5. The squash borer has completed her egg laying by then, and the rest of the summer is uneventful, to the zuke at least.”

Diseases

  1. As far as diseases go, powdery mildew can be an issue on the leaves later in the season. It’s a common fungal disease that forms a white powdery coating on both sides of leaves. Usually, growth stalls. A common reason for powdery mildew is irregular watering, so stay consistent. If plants do become infected, remove affected leaves immediately. A great way to prevent powdery mildew altogether is to mist leaves with a solution that is 1/3 milk and 2/3 water. Spray the milky mixture onto all surfaces—early, on a dry and sunny day. Repeat every 10 to 14 days throughout the growing season.
  2. Blossom-end rot is an occasional issue as well. If the blossom ends of your squash turn black and rot, then your squash have blossom-end rot. This condition is caused by uneven soil moisture levels, often by wide fluctuations between wet and dry soil. Uneven watering affects the calcium levels of the fruit. To correct the problem, water deeply and apply a thick mulch over the soil surface to keep evaporation at a minimum. Keep the soil evenly moist like a wrung-out sponge, not wet and not completely dried out.

Watch this excellent video for tips and tricks to sidestep common squash problems so there’s no barrier to your successful harvest!

Wit and Wisdom

  • The word “squash” derives from askutasquash, the Narragansett Native American word meaning “eaten raw or uncooked.”
  • So-called squash bees—Peponapis and Xenoglossa—are excellent pollinators, especially for zucchini. Look for them among the flowers in the first few hours after sunrise.
  • Squash is technically a fruit because it contains the plant’s seeds, but for culinary purposes, it is treated as a vegetable.
  • August 8 is National Sneak Some Zucchini on Your Neighbor’s Porch Day!

Recipes
Zucchini Bread
Summer Squash Pickles
Zucchini Brownies
Lemon-Zucchini Muffins
Zucchini Pancakes
Zucchini Relish
Fresh Tomato and Zucchini Au Gratin
Breaded Fried Zucchini Rounds

Cooking Notes

  • Zucchini can be overwhelming once it starts producing. While zucchini bread is great, there are many other ways to enjoy this summer squash! See our Best Zucchini Recipes.
  • Squash flowers are edible and make a tasty treat when fried in a light batter.

Vegetables
About The Author
Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann is the Executive Digital Editor of Almanac.com, the website companion of The Old Farmer's Almanac. She covers gardening, plants, pest control, soil composition, seasonal and moon c...
Read More from Catherine Boeckmann

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Comments

<span>Anonymous</span> Wed, 05/30/2012 - 19:02
I picked my first squash May 1, now it looks like the plants are starting to die. Is this normal? How many weeks should you get squash from the plant?
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Mon, 06/04/2012 - 11:56
It's hard to say why they are dying. Do you have any frass? It's possible that it's the squash vine borer pest, especially if the soil's been too wet. Take a knife and slit the stem lengthwise and look for those grubs. If they're there, you need to quickly pull those plants as it is too late for treatment. In the future, row covers may help.
<span>Anonymous</span> Sat, 05/26/2012 - 14:24
My squash plants are producing quite a bit but the squash are beginning to die off after a short growth, Is this a pollenation issue?
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Tue, 05/29/2012 - 15:50
If the squash fruit gets an inch or two long and then dies, it is probably related to pollination. Female and male flowers need to blossom at the same time. So, it may just be a question of waiting until both are blossoming. Tips: To attract bees, avoid spraying pesticides as well as covering the squash during morning pollination. Avoid overhead sprinklers. If the weather's been too rainy or overly hot, you may also need to wait for conditions improve. Finally, you can always attract more bees with nearby plants (example: plant bee balm).
<span>Anonymous</span> Thu, 05/10/2012 - 18:24
I have plants where I just moved to and I was told they are squash. I for some reason dont think so I thought all squash had yellow blooms? These have black almost really dark purpleish blooms and the other has like a dark pink with purple in the middle on the bloom what kind of plants are these could anyone tell me I have pictures on my phone but no way to post them on here!
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Mon, 05/14/2012 - 17:10
Hmmm... Hard to say without a picture, but eggplants have deep purple blooms. You could always bring a sample to your local garden center.
<span>Jim R.</span> Wed, 01/04/2012 - 17:39
PESTS - In the south (Texas), I've run into problems with cabbage loopers and melonworms. I had to spray Bt (an approved organic solution) to get them to go away. POLLINATION - It's possible to pollinate the flowers without bees. Basically, you carefully open the flowers (if they haven't already), remove the "dusty" component (male?), and rub it against the other one. FLOWERS - The flowers are great to eat straight from the plant. The fruits (veggies) also! In fact, I've had to do that to keep them from the squirrels, who have done damage to the nearby stems, being clumsy in their gnawing.
<span>Shepherdess1976</span> Tue, 07/19/2011 - 09:22
One pest you left out is the squash vine borer, which has killed many plants I have in Indiana. If you plant radish seed with it and start them later in the season, you have a better chance of live plants. I feed the extra large ones to my sheep.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Tue, 05/15/2012 - 09:52
We've added squash vine borer to the list. A very serious pest!
<span>Sammakate</span> Thu, 03/24/2011 - 10:38
If you shouldn't use hay or straw, what can you use for mulch ? And also, I have a problem with ants eating my plants, I have tried everything but can't get rid of them.. Thanks