Japanese beetles are iridescent green insects that pose a big threat because they feed on a wide variety of plants. The trick to eradication is to start early. See our tips on preventing Japanese beetles from eating your plants this season!
What Are Japanese Beetles?
Japanese beetles (Popillia japonica) do not discriminate regarding what types of plants they feed on, though they do have favorites (like roses). In fact, they are classified as pests to hundreds of different species. They are one of the major insect pests in the Eastern and Midwestern United States, causing monumental damage to crops each year.
Before the beetle’s accidental introduction to the United States in the early 1900s, the Japanese beetle was found only on the islands of Japan, isolated by water and kept in check by its natural predators. In 1912, a law was passed that made it illegal to import plants rooted in soil. Unfortunately, failure to implement the law immediately allowed the Japanese beetle to arrive in this country.
Most entomologists agree that the beetles entered the country as grubs in soil on Japanese iris roots. In 1916, these coppery-winged pests were first spotted in a nursery near Riverton, New Jersey. By 1920, eradication programs were dropped; the beetle proved too prolific and widespread.
Japanese Beetle Life Cycle
The Japanese beetle (Popillia japonica) has a one-year life cycle, with four main stages: egg, larvae (grub), pupa, and adult.
Eggs
Female beetles lay eggs in the soil of lawns and gardens during the summer. Each female can lay 40–60 eggs.
Larvae/Grubs
The eggs hatch into white, C-shaped grubs that live underground. These grubs feed on grass roots, causing brown, dying patches in lawns. They overwinter in the soil and resume feeding in spring.
The eggs hatch into c-shaped grubs that feed on roots underground. Photo: jelloyd
Pupae
The grubs pupate underground, transforming into adults.
Adults
Adult Japanese beetles emerge, feeding heavily on leaves, flowers, and fruit. They live for about 35–45 days, during which they mate and lay eggs, starting the cycle over again.
Japanese Beetles are ½ inch in length with distinct metallic blue-green heads. They have copper-colored backs, tan wings, and small white hairs lining each side of the abdomen. Japanese beetles usually feed in small groups.
Prior to becoming adult beetles in late June, they are 1-inch-long C-shaped white grubs that live in the soil and feed on the roots of many plants. These grubs are often a problem in lawns.
Once adults, Japanese beetles live only about 40 days, but they are voracious. Japanese beetles attack plants in groups, which is why the damage is so severe. Most feeding starts in mid- to late June in the North and mid- to late May in the South.
Ladybugs vs. Japanese Beetles
Sometimes, Ladybugs and Japanese beetles are confused in the garden, but they’re very different insects. Ladybugs are beneficial insects that feed on garden pests like aphids, mites, and scale. They help keep plants healthy and are considered “good bugs.” Learn more about how to attract ladybugs to your garden!
Japanese beetles, on the other hand, are harmful garden pests. As adults, they chew through leaves, flowers, and fruit, while their larvae (grubs) damage lawns by feeding on grass roots.
Ladybugs vs. Japanese Beetles: Quick Comparison Chart
Feature
Ladybug
Japanese Beetle
Color
Bright red, orange, or yellow with black spots
Metallic green with shiny copper wings
Size
1/4 inch
1/2 inch
Diet
Eats aphids, mites, and garden pests (beneficial)
Eats leaves, flowers, fruits, and crops (harmful)
Impact on Garden
Helps plants by controlling pests
Damages plants, trees, and lawns
Native Range
Worldwide (many species native)
Native to Japan, invasive in North America
Japanese beetles cause leaves to appear skeletonized. Photo Credit: Ohio State University.
Signs of Japanese Beetle Damage
Japanese beetles feed on a wide variety of flowers and crops (the adult beetles attack more than 300 different kinds of plants), but in terms of garden plants, they are especially common on roses, as well as beans, grapes, and raspberries. Here’s what to look out for:
Unhealthy, Brown Patches in Lawn
Japanese beetle larvae eat the roots of your lawn, creating brown, dead patches. Photo: GreenThumbShots
First come the Japanese beetle grubs (larvae), which damage grass when overwintering in the soil. The grubs feast on the roots of lawn grasses and garden plants. This can cause brown patches of dead or dying grass to form in the lawn, which will pull up easily thanks to the weakened roots.
Skeletonized Leaves and Flowers
Then come the adult Japanese beetles, which chew leaf tissue from between the veins, leaving a lacy skeleton. You’ll know right away when you see leaves that are “skeletonized” (i.e., only have veins remaining). (Mexican Bean Beetles can also leave foliage skeletonized, though, so be sure to identify the beetle by their appearance as well.)
You can identify adult Japanese beetle damage by the lacy looking leaves that they leave behind. Photo: Pascal Halder
Gardening Products
Control and Prevention
How to Kill Japanese Beetles
Photo Credit: Jeff Hahn, University of Minnesota.
To manage Japanese Beetles in yards and gardens, the trick is to start early! Once these insects are present in large numbers, the problem is very difficult to manage.
Consider BTG or Bacillus thuringiensis galleria
Start at the grub stage! BTG or Bacillus thuringiensis galleriae (e.g., products such as grubGONE!) uses naturally occurring soil bacteria. This bacillus ONLY targets certain lawn insect pests, such as Japanese Beetle grubs, before they become destructive adults. The grubs ingest the spores and the natural yet powerful BTG proteins as they feed in the soil.
It is as effective as a chemical pesticide and works within days to weeks of application, but is NOT toxic to beneficial insects, such as earthworms, bees, and pollinators; it will not harm people, pets, animals, or plants. BTG will kill not only Japanese Beetle grubs but also a variety of other destructive beetle larvae and grubs, such as chafers, oriental beetles, and billbugs, throughout the spring through fall seasons.
To deter an infestation of adult beetles and kill the beetles that do infest your edible or ornamental plants, you can use BTG as a spray (e.g., product beetleGONE!). Like with the grubs, BTG effectively kills the adult beetles through a combination of the BTG protein and spores. One key to success is to start applying early: at the first signs of the adult beetle. Farmers and growers have stated that they believe BTG may reduce the attraction by early-arriving beetles of more beetles by inhibiting the effectiveness of the early arrivals’ use of their beetle-attracting pheromones.
This product can be mixed in water and sprayed on edible garden plants, ornamental plants, and trees to kill Japanese Beetle adults or put into turf to kill the grubs. It can also be used dry as a mix into potting or garden soil to control beetle grubs. The product is registered with a zero-day pre-harvest interval, therefore, you can treat for beetles and pick your food the same day. There are no label restrictions for use around bees or flowering plants; therefore, it can be safely used while pollinators are active. There is also no toxicity to fish or aquatic life.
Handpick Early
Look for beetles in mid- to late June or early July. In the early morning or evening, when beetles are more sluggish, knock beetles into a bucket of soapy water. Yes, it’s time-consuming, but it’s also the most effective way to kill these pests. Just be diligent. When you pick them off, put them in a solution of 1 tablespoon of liquid dishwashing detergent and water, which will cause them to drown. Do this daily, as the chemical trail of beetles attracts more beetles.
After handpicking the Japanese beetles, place them in a solution of dish detergent and water to cause them to drown. Photo: Kylie P
Introduce Natural Enemies
You can also attract native species of parasitic wasps (Tiphia vernalis or T. popilliavora) and flies to your garden, as they are predators of the beetles and can be beneficial insects. They will probably attack the larvae, but they are not very effective in reducing the overall beetle population.
Spray Neem Oil
Deter feeding by adult beetles by spraying plants with neem oil, which contains potassium bicarbonate. Adult beetles ingest a chemical in the neem oil and pass it on to their eggs, and the resulting larvae die before they become adults. Neem oil is effective for several days, but repeat applications are needed, especially after rainfall. Neem oil is not effective once you have beetles in large numbers. Neem is low risk to bees and other beneficial insects but can be harmful to fish and aquatic life, so don’t use it near lakes, rivers, and water.
Consider Insecticides
Beware of insecticides. If you wish to use insecticides, speak to your local cooperative extension or garden center about approved insecticides in your area, and be aware of whether you’re killing the very pollinators that bring fruit and flowers!
For example, Chlorantraniliprole (Acelepryn®) provides 2 to 4 weeks of protection and is low risk to bees. But most dusts or sprays are highly toxic to honeybees, native bees, and other pollinators. If application of these materials to plants is necessary during the bloom period, do not apply during hours when bees are visiting the flowers (late morning through midday). Apply sprays in the morning, never in full sun or at temperatures above 90ºF. If your plants start to wilt, rinse the leaves immediately with clean water.
Nip Rose Buds and Spray Rose Bushes
When beetles are most abundant on roses, nip the buds and spray the bushes to protect the leaves. When the beetles become scarce, let the bushes bloom again. Timeliness and thoroughness of application are very important. Begin treatment as soon as beetles appear, before damage is done. For rose growers, see our Growing Guide for Roses for more tips on caring for roses!
Japanese Beetles LOVE roses. Therefore, you need to start early to protect them. Photo: Mike Hill Photography
Japanese Beetle Prevention
Choose the Right Plants
There are some plants that Japanese Beetles seldom damage, such as boxwood, chrysanthemum, clematis, conifers, daylily, forsythia, geranium, ginkgo, common lilac, Japanese tree lilac, magnolia, red and silver maple, oak, white poplar, redbud, rhododendron, and yew. See our list of the Best and Worst Plants for Japanese Beetles.
Dispersing the beetle’s favorite plants throughout the landscape, rather than grouping them together, can also help.
Japanese Beetle Plant Preferences
What Plants Attract Japanese Beetles
What Plants Repel Japanese Beetles
Roses
Catnip
Grapes
Garlic
Linden Trees (Basswood)
Chives
Apple Trees
Onion
Plums
Leeks
Birches
Tansy
Hibiscus
Larkspur
Raspberries
Begonias
Beans
Marigolds (especially French marigolds)
Blackberries
Boxwood
Protect Your Crops With Row Covers
Use row covers during the 6- to 8-week feeding period that begins by mid- to late June in the North and mid- to late May in the South. Row covers will keep the pests out, but they will keep pollinators out, too; be sure to remove netting or covers if your crops need to be pollinated. Do not cover plants in bloom that require pollination (i.e., fruits); after the plant sets fruit, then cover it with netting.
Use Companion Plants
Avoid attracting beetles with companion planting. Try planting garlic, rue, or tansy near your affected plants to deter Japanese beetles. (Roses love garlic is a popular expression.) All herbs and other aromatic plants make wonderful companions. Scented geraniums (Pelargonium), rue (Ruta), feverfew (Tanacetum), parsley (Petroselinum), and thyme (Thymus) all may help ward off Japanese beetles as well as aphids.
Try ornamental and culinary sage (Salvia), anise-hyssop (Agastache), calamint (Calamintha),catmint (Nepeta), lavender (Lavandula), oregano (Origanum), Russian sage (Perovskia), and yarrow (Achillea). Four-o’clocks (Mirabilis) and larkspur (Delphinium) are said to act as decoys by attracting rose-loving Japanese beetles to eat their poisonous leaves, but they do not kill the beetles.
Scented geraniums (Pelargonium) are one of the many plants that will help to ward off Japanese Beetles. Photo: crystaldream
Methods That Don’t Work
Japanese Beetle Traps
Do NOTuse Japanese Beetle traps. They attract beetles, but research has proven that more beetles fly toward the traps than are caught. You’ll be pulling beetles in from all over town and end up with a worse problem.
While Japanese Beetle Traps appear to help decrease the population, research has shown that they actually attract MORE beetles to your garden. Photo: mikeledray
Neem Oil
While we mentioned Neem oil above as a solution, it is essential to note that it has a time and place. Once you have a large population of beetles, or once they have grown to full-size adults, Neem oil will no longer be effective.
FAQ
What spray kills Japanese beetles?
Insecticidal sprays containing carbaryl, pyrethrin, or neem oil are commonly used. Neem oil works best when applied early, as it disrupts the beetles’ feeding and reproduction. Always follow label instructions and reapply as needed.
When do Japanese beetles go away?
Adult beetles typically appear in late June and remain active for 4–6 weeks, usually disappearing by mid-to-late August.
Do Japanese beetles bite humans?
No. Japanese beetles do not bite or sting. They only feed on plants and are harmless to people and pets.
Do grubs turn into Japanese beetles?
Yes. The white C-shaped grubs found in soil are the larval stage of Japanese beetles. They feed on grass roots, overwinter in the soil, and then emerge as adult beetles the following summer.
What birds eat Japanese beetles?
Many backyard birds (including starlings, robins, cardinals, and crows) feed on Japanese beetles. Encouraging birds in your garden with feeders, water, or nesting spots can help reduce beetle numbers. Learn more about creating a bird-friendly garden.
Catherine Boeckmann is the Executive Digital Editor of Almanac.com, the website companion of The Old Farmer's Almanac. She covers gardening, plants, pest control, soil composition, seasonal and moon c...
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Tue, 06/28/2016 - 16:18
Yes, they are a very good, nontoxic tool for pest management.
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<span>Yvonne</span>Fri, 06/30/2017 - 01:52
After talking to a local chapter of the National Wildlife folk at a recent town faire, I stopped using the traps. The attractant in them basically makes all the beetles drop the larva in YOUR yard instead of your neighbor's. Sure enough, this year, I'm having much more trouble than ever before. You're better off using milky spore and nematodes.
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<span>Karin O'bryan</span>Sat, 06/04/2016 - 09:57
After treating my apple trees for Japanese Beetles, do I need to pick off the eaten leaves from my trees? Or just leave them? I have searched and searched for the answer to this on many sites, please help.
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<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Mon, 06/06/2016 - 13:17
Yes, it is a good idea to pick off the eaten leaves if you are able to do so. Beetle-damaged leaves emit certain odors that could attract other beetles, so it is best to remove them.
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<span>Ken</span>Mon, 05/30/2016 - 13:17
Found another favorite food of these horrific beetles got them by the thousands apparently the only way to rid yourself of them is to hand pick them . Wish there was another way to get them off my mulberry trees . Tried seven dust irritated them killed a few but not many . Tried an organic spray of dush soap vege oil and garlic but nearly killed my trees . And the beetles wouldnt stop . Now trying hand picking them off have a jar nearly full and there still coming . If anyone has any other ideas that would be great .
I use a wet/dry vac to suck them off my roses, doesn't bother the roses much and I can catch 20 at a time just putting it down over the rose bloom then pulling back off. After vacuuming for about 20-30 minutes I seal it up well and leave it in the sun, then I feed them to my chickens. Repeat daily for best result and happiest chickens. :)
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<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Wed, 06/01/2016 - 16:13
Hi Ken,
Hand picking is the best way to get rid of these beetles. We have added a few more ways to get rid of them at the top of this page, nematodes being one.
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<span>Azrsmith</span>Sun, 12/20/2015 - 17:56
Buckeye, az is where we're located. I have found out i pretty much have an infestation of grubworms. off of just about 98% of what i produce homesteading is how i manage to survive i plant all food productive plants melons peas strawberries cucumbers carrots basically anything i can get to grow that we can eat with nearly no financial budget. So i hav to be very careful when & what i do to my plants doesnt help im fairly beginner gardener. I've been tilling up grounds sifting out & squishing as many as i find also been tearing out all grass to jus bare grounds within 6ft radius of veggies areas
So im gonna try ur jug trap 4 adult beetles and soapy water spray but im really nervous my plants grow 100% off earth & water mainly cuz i cant afford any plant supplements. I know theres MANY different kinds of liquid dishsoap with different smells and cleaning power agents like Dawn, ajax some say triple action cuts grease, and other things.
I dont want to pick one that i shouldnt use so Which one would u recommend to use or is there anything in there ingredients that i should look to avoid when choosing the liquid dish washing soap? And is that liquid dishwashing soap for hand washing dishes or liquid dish washing soap for dishwashers?
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<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a>Tue, 12/22/2015 - 11:09
Use dishwashing liquid like Ivory or Dawn. Don't use dish washing liquids containing bleach or degreaser.
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<span>La-Shell</span>Fri, 11/06/2015 - 02:58
I have these green beetles coming out of the ground in Nov. Is this strange? or Not. I have never seen this before. Does anyone know if this is the same type of beetle or if it is just this year's weather? Thanks to any one who can answer my question.
Yes, they are a very good, nontoxic tool for pest management.