Bee houses are an easy and eye-catching way to attract native bee species to your garden.
Get Better Flowers, Fruits, and Vegetables with a Native Bee Hotel!
Build a native bee house, and you will enjoy more blooms and greater harvests! Similar to birdhouses, bee houses (also called bee hotels) are meant to increase the pollination of your garden plants by super-pollinating solitary bees, such as mason bees and leafcutter bees. Learn why and how to build a bee house!
What Is a Bee House?
Bee houses (also called bee hotels or bug hotels) are similar to birdhouses, but instead of attracting birds, they attract native solitary bee species. Unlike honey bees, these solitary bees are extremely docile and up to three times more effective as pollinators. No, you won’t get any honey, but you will enjoy better flowers, thriving plants, and healthier vegetables in your garden!
Some of the most common solitary bees are mason bees, leafcutter bees, and miner bees. Many of these native bees are already a part of the local ecosystem, but providing them with a perfect place to nest in your backyard can improve their lives and yours.
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Bee houses consist of a wooden, birdhouse-like structure containing native bee nesting materials—typically hollow reeds or cardboard tubes. They are the perfect habitat for solitary, hole-nesting bees, who are some of the best pollinators around.
Watch the video below to learn how to build your own bug hotel (for bees and other beneficial insects).
6 Tips for Managing a Successful Bee Hotel
Here are some great tips for keeping your native bee house buzzing:
1. Avoid bee houses that are too large
While a bee house that is 4 feet wide and 6 feet tall looks great, draws a lot of attention, and raises awareness of native bees, this size is much too ambitious and will likely become a burden to maintain. Like birdhouses, which ought to be cleaned out at the end of each year, bee houses need to be refreshed annually with new nesting materials. Bee hotel maintenance takes little effort overall, but consider the time you can devote to managing the bees that move in.
Be sure to choose a bee house size that matches what the surrounding area can provide. For example, a stand of flowering trees and bushes can provide more pollen than a meadow of flowers can, meaning a larger house would be appropriate for the former.
2. Protect nesting materials from wind, rain, and birds
Hole-nesting bees need a place to live that’s dry and safe. The ideal bee house will have a solid outer structure that has a 2–3” overhang, which will protect nesting materials from bad weather. If birds attack the nesting holes, use a 1”-wide wire cloth and bubble it around the bee house. Do not install wire cloth flush against the nesting holes, as this will obstruct the bees from entering. Bees need some space for landing and taking off!
3. Provide nesting holes made of the right materials in the proper size range
Natural, locally available nesting materials are best. For hole-nesting bees, cardboard tubes and lake reeds in the right size range are readily available online.
Avoid bamboo and plastic straws, as these do not let enough moisture escape, causing problems for developing bees. Nesting holes should be between 4–10 mm in size and should be about six inches long. (Nesting holes that are too shallow will skew the sex range of the next generation’s bees.) Many bamboo shoots are too large for any North American bee to use.
Not all native solitary bees use the same nesting materials, so it’s a good idea to provide a range of options (as pictured above) to cater to all the locals.
4. Location and a word about predatory wasps
Orient the bee house to face the morning sun, as hole-nesting bees need the sun’s warmth to give them energy to fly. Placing two bee houses—each facing a slightly different direction—can produce even better results.
Most native bees prefer afternoon shade, but too much shade could attract hole-nesting wasps. Solitary wasps are generally considered beneficial predators in a garden, as they attack pests like caterpillars, grubs, and aphids. However, they may also prey on the bee pupae in your bee house.
5. Protect developing bee larvae during the winter
Make sure that your bee house is accessible so that you can easily remove filled nesting materials and store them in a warm, dry place. You’ll want to keep nesting materials in locations that have similar temperatures as the outdoors, like a garden shed or unheated garage. Removing and protecting filled nesting holes in something like a fine mesh bag helps to keep small parasitic wasps from attacking larvae.
Keep an eye on the filled nesting materials, as your bees may be a species (such as leafcutter bees) that produce multiple generations per season.
6. Harvest bee cocoons each spring
After protecting and storing filled nesting materials over the winter, open materials and harvest cocoons in the early spring. If you can, organize and separate cocoons based on appearance and when their nesting holes were capped. With proper care, these cocoons will develop into a new generation of native bee pollinators and residents of your bee house!
Learn More
For more information on solitary bees and bee houses, see Native Bees: The Best Pollinators for Your Garden.
Learn about building your own bug hotel.
Christopher Burnett
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One of the better written articles on Native Solitary Bees. Well done!
When you remove the cocoons, where do you put them???
I’d really love to put a bee house up in my garden, but don't have a garage or shed. Could they be wintered over underneath a porch (sides mostly blocked off) or under mulch/straw in the same way you winter-over plants? Thanks
Charlotte, when we moved into a log home we noticed that the tiny, long spaces between logs had little bees coming & going in the spring; I was to learn these were mason bees. They'd long ago adapted to using the house for egg-laying & hatching. They were surviving the natural way, in droves! When we had to add siding & insulation over the logs to keep our house warm, I started with bee boxes with "shelves", the kind you unscrew the shelves to release the bees, which I continue to use now. I don't bring them in, just leave them out all winter, but do clean the "runways" once they've hatched to clear out any mites. Every few years I start over with new wooden shelves, but keep the bee box. My point is it doesn't have to be complicated with removing cocoons, etc. I lose some to mites, but most hatch in April.
As long as it is kept in a sheltered area (such as under the porch), I think it would be worth trying to overwinter the bees. However, in that location they could be vulnerable to things like squirrels and mice, so consider keeping them in a secure container (that also lets some air in).
The bee tubes look like they are the same size as cinnamon sticks. Would it hurt to place one cinnamon stick in place of a bee tube? Would the cinnamon stick detract bees from the house, or could it change the flavor of honey?
These bees do not produce honey. These are solitary bees that do not live in a colony like honey bees.
That’s a very interesting idea! Cinnamon is naturally anti-fungal, which would be beneficial to the bees. However, most insects dislike the strong scent of cinnamon and will avoid it; bees would likely do the same!
Cinnamon sticks are usually quite a bit smaller than the hole sizes needed for Solitary bees to nest and thrive in.
I was wondering why I have bees hanging on my flowers in the evening and they are still there the next morning. In my search, I found that male bees don't have a home and this is where they 'hang' for the night. Do you know if these homeless male bees utilize the bee houses? I always feel bad for them as they are there in the cold, hail, rain, etc.
They seem to like my oregano flowers and I don't have many but this seems to be their home for quite a few bees.
Thanks kindly!
