12 Best Types of Grass for Your Lawn

First and foremost, whether improving existing turf or starting anew, is this rule: Plant what wants to grow there. Match sun or shade, traffic, and climate, and you’ll be on the right track.

Warm vs. Cool Season Grasses

Lawn grasses are split into two main categories: the cool season and the warm season. As you might deduce, warm-season grasses are typically planted farther south and do better with the high heat and drier conditions often found in the southern states. And, of course, transition zone grasses are out there to muddy the waters, too.

• Cool-season grasses grow most in the early and late part of the season and hold up better in colder winters.
• Warm-season grasses grow most in the summertime and go dormant (and often brown) after the frosts. Many are not cold or hardy and can be killed by harsh northern winters.
• Transition zone grasses do better in the cold than warm-season grasses and hold up better in the heat than cool-season grasses. They’re excellent for folks in the middle, where the winters still get cold but the summers are sizzling.

The northern half of the country is pretty much considered a cool-season grass area. The southern tier of states, Florida on through to California, is the home of warm-season grasses, and of course, the Mid-Atlantic on through Oklahoma and Nebraska west falls in the transition zone. Many grass seed companies provide a map of the United States to help you figure out what type of grass is best suited for your location.

Picking the Right Type of Grass for Your Lawn

Choosing which grass to grow in your lawn means evaluating your soil, sunlight, how your yard is used—i.e., the traffic—and the climate. In general, warm-season grasses are more suited to the heat of the South, and cool-season grasses fare better in the northern part of the country. However, there are always exceptions, and turf professionals have been working to breed better characteristics into each, just like with flowers, vegetables, or shrubs. Start by matching the grass to your location, and if you are in doubt, contact your local county extension office.

Grasses also vary in maintenance needs—some need frequent irrigation and fertilizer, while others (like the motley mix in my yard) do well enough when ignored. Some need more mowing (and it’s important to know how to mow). When picking grass, consider your enjoyment or lack of enthusiasm for lawn chores. Lastly, take your humidity, rainfall, or arid weather into account. Some grasses do quite well, even in dry conditions, while others need constant help.

Our yards often have a mix of sun and shade and varied levels of foot traffic. To help us out, many grass seed vendors sell blends. They’re often identified by regions, like the Pacific Northwest or Mid-Atlantic, by use, like heavy traffic, or by light conditions. Most bag labels will state the proportion of different grasses in the mix.

12 Most Popular Types of Grass

A quick knowledge of the main grasses available can help you make a better decision. A poorly planned yard can provide years of frustration, extra work, and extra expense. Remember the summaries below when reading a label or manufacturer’s claims.

Also, If you’re interested in grass alternatives for some areas of your yard, see our article on low-maintenance lawn replacements.

1. Tall Fescue

Tall fescue (Festuca arundinacea) is a tough, fast-growing, cool-season grass that is highly suited for the transition zone and does well in cooler climates. While the name might not sound as if it’s suited for turf, most cultivars sold today are dwarf varieties. It’s a perennial grass that does well in full sun and partial shade.

Its deep root system and low maintenance needs mean you won’t spend much time watering or dethatching. Tall fescue does better when kept at longer lengths, 3 to 4 inches tall.

2. Fine Fescue

Often, you’ll find fine fescues mixed with other seed grasses as they provide density. Many fescues fit in this group, including strong creeping red fescue, slender creeping red fescue, Chewings fescue, hard fescue, and sheep fescue. 

These cool-season grasses have superior shade tolerance, and they are often mixed with Kentucky bluegrass in seed mixtures for residential lawns. These turf grasses also need less fertilizer than other lawns.

They’re also a key component in no-mow or low-mow lawns. Some fine fescues hold up quite well to foot traffic. They rarely need irrigation after establishment, although, like any grass, extended drought will cause it to brown. 

3. Bermuda Grass

Popular in the South for its exceptional heat tolerance and durability, Bermudagrass is a perennial, warm-season grass that can withstand hot weather and high traffic and is tolerant of saltier soil. It grows best in full sun conditions. Bermudagrass goes dormant and turns brown in freezing temperatures and can spread into unwanted areas like perennial beds.  

This lawn will require maintenance. Its fast growth rate means you’ll be mowing more often, but you’ll be rewarded with a resilient grass that fills in bare spots quickly and grows well in most soils.

4. Kentucky Bluegrass

Kentucky bluegrass is a popular cool-season grass with excellent cold hardiness. The texture is finer and more delicate than a tall fescue, but it’s not as durable. 

Its shallow root system makes it less adaptable to dry conditions and hot summers. This grass requires irrigation during drought or heat to stay green and avoid going dormant. 

Repair or establishment should be conducted in the cooler days of autumn. It is high maintenance but results in a lush, durable lawn, assuming irrigation. Many people plant a seed mixture with Kentucky bluegrass to get an attractive color along with durability and drought resistance.

5. Bahia Grass

Another winner for the tough-to-grow lawns of the Southeast, Bahia grass is extremely heat- and drought-resistant. It loves full sun, is durable and low-maintenance, and has some tolerance for poorly draining soil and light shade. It can be started from seed. 

Vulnerable to weed encroachment when newly established, although it eventually forms a dense and durable lawn. It can be harmed by lawn herbicide products, so read the label to ensure it’s recommended for Bahia grass.

6. Buffalo Grass

Buffalo grass is a native grass that grows during the summer months but begins turning brown with the frosts. It is a full-sun–loving perennial, warm-season, sod-forming grass tolerant of harsh conditions. 

Once established, it is low-maintenance but can be problematic starting from seed. New varieties are more resistant to weed invasion, require little fertilizer, and need less mowing. During the growing season, it is easily damaged by weed killers containing 2,4-D, which is sold for control of dandelions and broadleaf weeds.

7. Centipede Grass

Excellent tolerance to heat, moderately shade tolerant, but location limited, this coarse-leaved grass is popular in the Southeast states from Texas to Florida, where its preferred sandy, acidic soils are found. 

This apple-green grass requires 6 hours of full sun and may remain green throughout the year in very mild climates. It doesn’t tolerate traffic, but it’s low-maintenance and requires very little fertilizer and infrequent mowing. 

It’s not as salt-tolerant as Bermuda grass. Shallow root systems mean centipede grass lawns require watering in dry spells. No dethatching or aeration is typically needed.

8. Perennial Ryegrass

Perennial ryegrass is unrelated to the rye grain we eat. It’s a cool-season grass popular in the North for its cold hardiness and a favorite for overseeding in the South to provide winter color. It germinates easily from seed and grows in partial shade.

Water needs are about average, but increase your mowing height in late summer during periods of hot, dry weather. This clump-forming grass doesn’t typically produce much thatch.

9. Annual Ryegrass

Annual ryegrass (Lolium multiflorum) is short-lived. Its function in lawns is to quickly establish, provide color, and control erosion while slower grasses get going. It’s often used to overseed lawns and provide winter color when warm-season grasses go dormant (mine is covered in snow, so I don’t have the need for that!). 

Fast to establish (3 to 7 days to germination), but this grass has limited tolerance to drought and heat. Since this isn’t a permanent solution but is normally an add-on, follow the maintenance needs of the perennial grass you’ll be planting or growing.

10. Zoysia

A popular perennial warm-season grass, Zoysia grows rapidly in the heat of summer and is an excellent choice for turf across the South. It also does well in the transition zone. Its deeper roots mean less watering during short, dry spells. 

Slow to establish but forms a thick layer that few weeds will penetrate. It can require dethatching.

11. St. Augustine grass

A coarse-textured, warm-season grass, St. Augustine cultivars handle heat and humidity well and are salt-tolerant for coastal yards. 

Taking care of an established St. Augustine yard can be easy. Many folks report only needing to mow it and nothing more (my kind of yard). It chokes out weeds, but fixing bare spots is difficult and usually requires plugs.

12. Creeping Bentgrass

Creeping bentgrass (Agrostis stolonifera) is a fine-textured grass commonly used for greens, tees, and fairways. If you’re looking for cool-season grass and have daydreams of your own putting green in the backyard, creeping bentgrass might be the ticket. It can be a good choice for heavy-traffic lawns in the North due to its resistance to foot traffic, bright green color, and moderate shade tolerance.

Even if you aren’t maintaining a putting green, creeping bentgrass is more labor-intensive. It requires frequent mowing and irrigation to maintain its good looks.

Bottom line: We often forget that grass is indeed a plant that needs to grow where it’s happiest. Grass seed bags are usually made up of two or more types of grasses or blend varieties of the same grass. The University of Massachusetts Extension Turf Program states, “A mix is generally more adaptable to differing site conditions (shade, full sun, dry, moist). Most lawns should be made up of a mix of grasses, appropriate for the particular site.” 

Don’t be hasty in throwing down grass seed. Examine your differing lawn conditions (shade, full sun, dry, moist), review the summaries above, and then go browse the seed bags at your local store. It may take some trial and error, but you’ll find the best match for your lawn.

Interested in learning about ornamental grasses? They are truly low-maintenance and can replace parts of your lawn or look beautiful along a border garden. See 40 types of ornamental grasses.