When it comes to adding curb appeal to our homes and improving the landscape, it can help to think big! Planting trees and shrubs should be the basis of your landscaping plans, helping to bring structure to your yard and gardens. Consider your surroundings, even your neighborhood, and before you buy and begin digging, think about how various trees and shrubs mature and the care they need. Learn how incorporating trees into your landscape design can make a BIG impact.
Unusual Big Trees
Large specimen trees outlive us and add the greatest value to a home. Typically, they are selected for fall color or hardiness or because they are evergreen. A specimen tree can mature at 40 to 50 feet tall or more and have a canopy as much as 30 feet in diameter.
These trees should not be planted within 30 feet of a house or power lines to ensure a natural growth habit and prevent property damage. Most create shade, so shallow tree roots, under-planting possibilities, the potential for mulch, and the risk of decreased lawn vigor should be considered.
Be aware that unusual trees add diversity to the neighborhood, which can help prevent the spread of disease and blight. Decide how much shade, shape, and color you want from trees in your landscape. Ask an arborist or nursery if they are suitable for your site.
The following large specimen trees have a 30-to-40-foot spread. Although most are hardy from USDA Zones 3 to 8 (learn which zone you are in), they would be unusual additions because they are not commonly seen:
Cryptomeria, or Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica): pyramidal
Cucumber tree magnolia (Magnolia acuminata): layered; flowering
Dawn redwood (Metasequoia glyptostroboides): pyramidal deciduous
European hornbeam (Carpinus betulus ‘Columnaris‘ or ‘Fastigiata’): spreader; interesting bark
Golden larch (Pseudolarix amabilis [kaempferi]): pyramidal deciduous; golden fall foliage
Katsura tree (Cercidiphyllum japonicum): spreader; caramel-color leaves in fall and subtle caramel scent
Not-So-Big Trees
Smaller trees suit small spaces or small suburban properties. These trees top out at 20 to 30 feet, with a dripline (canopy) of about the same diameter. The proportion of house and lot to tree size becomes visually important in smaller, sometimes confined spaces. When selecting a tree, remember that you don’t want one that will require extensive pruning to keep its branches away from the house or utility lines.
On the subject of pruning: Consider removing the lower branches (paradoxically called “high pruning”) of some trees to allow for people and machinery to pass under the canopy. This creates a narrower top for some species and allows them to plant understory shrubbery, perennials, and ground covers. High pruning can help to maintain a pleasant canopy while at the same time permitting some light to filter under the tree and perhaps create an area for sitting or a shade plant garden. Some to consider include:
Japanese snowbell (Styrax japonicus): compact, deciduous; horizontal branching; rounded crown; bell-shape white flowers
Paperbark maple (Acer griseum): spreader; colorful, curling bark
White fringe tree (Chionanthus virginicus): spreader, rounded habit; showy white flowers
Tree Options for Wetlands
Many trees will not be happy in areas that retain moisture, but these large tree varieties love a boggy environment:
Bee bee tree (Evodia daniellii): spreader, umbrella-shape; fragrant white flowers; 25 to 30 feet at maturity
Pond cypress (Taxodium distichum ‘Nutans’): pyramidal deciduous; roots protrude above ground when in/near water; 30 to 70 feet tall at maturity
Weeping willow: spreader; stout trunk, with a crown of downward sweeping branches; 30 to 50 feet tall at maturity
Ornamental Trees
“Ornamental” refers to a tree with attractive characteristics such as overall shape, foliage color, flowers, or unusual seedpods. These low-to medium-height trees (10 to 20 feet and 20 to 25 feet tall, respectively) require less maintenance and do not shade large areas.
Cultivars not commonly seen include:
Cockspur hawthorn (Crataegus crusgalli): dense, low-branched, broad-rounded crown; seasonally orange to scarlet to purple-red foliage; white flowers
Japanese tree lilac (Syringa reticulata): oval/rounded crown; fragrant, creamy white flowers
Paperbark birch (Betula papyrifera): vase shape; exfoliating white bark
Ruby red horse chestnut (Aesculus carnea): deciduous; oval/rounded habit; red flowers
Saucer magnolia (Magnolia x soulangeana): spreader, rounded crown
White fringe tree (Chionanthus virginicus)
Border Trees
Tree and shrub borders define a property, create a windbreak, and serve as a backdrop for lawn and flower or ground cover beds.
Large pyramidal cultivars of these evergreens can be border plantings:
Growing to eye level or slightly taller, shrubs form the character, “rooms,” and visual appeal of your landscape. Their shapes add form and definition year-round, create views, guide the eye, and even hide “mechanicals” (e.g., air-conditioning units). Choose shrubs based on height, foliage, flower color, blooming season, winter interest, and compatibility with your soil and moisture conditions.
Select a shrub with a natural shape that fits your design to reduce pruning chores. These reliable performers mature at around 15 feet:
Golden vicary (Ligustrum x vicaryi): multistem: vase shape; deciduous; flowers attract bees and butterflies
Ninebark (Physocarpus): upright; spreader; deciduous; pink or white flowers
Serviceberry (Amelanchier): vase shape; slightly fragrant white flowers
Viburnum (Viburnum): many hybrids; genus of 150 to 175 species vary in height, spread, and flowers
Small Shrubs
Any shrub that naturally grows to less than 18 inches tall can be considered a woody ground cover. These are more low-maintenance than annual or perennial flowers, help to control weeds and soil erosion, reduce the need for mulch, and serve as year-round design features. Many have trailing, creeping, or cascading habits.
These dwarf shrubs are useful cultivars in flower borders, rock gardens, or the crevices of stone walls. They will add hardy height variation, color variation, texture, winter interest, and subtle fruit and flower interest. These include:
‘Bobozam’, aka ‘Mr. Bowling Ball’,American arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis): dense; globular; yellow and green foliage
‘Everlow’ yew (Taxusxmedia): wide spreader
‘Grey Owl’ red cedar (Juniperus virginiana): spreader; vase shape; gray-green foliage
‘Monloo’ Japanese yew (Taxus cuspidata): spreader; compact; dense
‘Tiny Tim’ American arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis): conical; aromatic yellow-green to green foliage
Foundation Plantings
Use varieties of boxwood (Buxus) shrubs as foundation plantings and in borders. Boxwood is easy to maintain and adaptable to various soils and moisture conditions. To prevent winter burn and avoid some varieties that have an unpleasant odor, consider these boxwoods:
‘Aureovariegata’ (Buxus sempervirens): rounded to broad-rounded; variegated foliage
Jennifer is the Digital Editor at The Old Farmer’s Almanac. She is an active equestrian and spends much of her free time at the barn. When she’s not riding, she loves caring for her collection of house plants, baking, and playing in her gardens. Read More from Jennifer Keating
More of a question
I have a large hardwood tree growing on a mild slope where there is a lot of erosion and roots showing. Is there a plant or boxwood I could plant to help with that. Almost total shaded area.
Thank you for your question. Much depends on the species of your tree and how the surrounding area can be modified to redirect water. Many trees can tolerate having some larger roots exposed. It’s the exposure of feeder roots that indicates a need for intervention. Once you replace the soil, a shade-loving ground cover will help it stay in place. Two we recommend are Creeping Jenny and Bugleweed (Ajuga reptans); check our guide to Grass Alternatives to learn more about them. You could plant boxwoods to divert the water away from the tree. Boxwoods have relatively shallow roots, but they require a lot of sun, so you would need to plant them where they wouldn’t be shaded by your tree’s canopy. Here is our guide to Boxwoods. —The Editors