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Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Zucchini & Summer Squash
Zucchini is known to be staggeringly productive. But there are some pitfalls, such as poor pollination and pests, to avoid if you wish to have a prolific harvest. In our growing guide, we’ll cover planting through harvesting and also share tips and tricks to sidestep common problems.
About Zucchini
Note that squash is generally divided into two categories: summer squash (harvested in summer) and winter squash (harvested in autumn). The skin of summer squash is edible, unlike the skin of winter squash. Most summer squash now come in bush varieties, which take up less space, whereas winter squash are vining plants that need more space.
Zucchini are warm-season crops with compact, bushy or trailing varieties to pick from. Compact types are good for containers – indeed, anywhere you don’t have a lot of space – while trailing types may be trained as climbers to grow up supports such as trellis or wire mesh.
Green zucchini are always going to be popular, but try a few of their more charismatic cousins as well, including varieties with yellow fruits, striped or ribbed fruits, and even round fruits.
This guide focuses on summer squash. Summer squash varieties include zucchini, yellow squash (straightneck squash), and crookneck squash. Note: All types of summer squash require very similar care, so even though we mainly refer to zucchini on this page, consider it to be applicable to whatever summer squash variety you’re growing!
Zucchini is a vigorous grower. While each plant will produce several squash during peak season, you’ll typically find that one or two zucchini plants will produce a “bumper” (unusually large) crop, leaving you to give the squash away to neighbors or bake lots of zucchini bread!
Harvesting
Harvest summer squash when tender and a bit immature (6 to 8 inches long) for more flavor. Believe us, oversize squash has very little taste. Many people wait too long to harvest. If you have ever had a negative experience with zucchini before, it’s probably because they were left to become bruisers.
- Most varieties average 60 days to maturity, and are ready as soon as a week after flowering. (Check the seed packet for more exact information.)
- Cut (do not break) fruit off the vine with a sharp knife, or you risk damaging the soft stem of the plant. Leave at least 1 inch of stem on the fruit.
- To slow production, harvest fruit when small and/or remove male flowers.
- If the harvest is interrupted (say, by your vacation), remove large squash on your return to reduce demands on the plants for moisture and nutrients.
- Complete the harvest before the first fall frost; summer squash is highly susceptible to frost and heat damage.
In fact, the flowers make good eating too, typically stuffed or simply battered and then fried. But only pick the male flowers – that’s the ones without a bulge behind them – or else you won’t get any fruits!
How to Store Zucchini
- Fresh summer squash has a relatively short shelf life. Store unwashed zucchini in a plastic or paper bag with one end open to encourage air circulation, and pop them in the refrigerator crisper drawer. They’ll keep for 10 days.
- Too much zucchini? Freeze it! It will keep for 3 months. See how to blanch and store zucchini in the freezer!
Cooking Notes
- Zucchini can be overwhelming once it starts producing. While zucchini bread is great, there are many other ways to enjoy this summer squash! See our Best Zucchini Recipes.
- Squash flowers are edible and make a tasty treat when fried in a light batter.
Catherine Boeckmann
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Very good information but I didn't see any companion planting in the article. Thank you.
I asking to help my friend and learn myself, too. My friend's yellow squash is producing nothing but male flowers, and has been doing so for weeks, ever since it got big enough to flower. Does this mean the plant is getting the wrong food (or no feeding)? Too high in nitrogen, so getting lots of big leaves? What can give the plant a boost to start making female flowers and therefore fruit? Earliest possible answer is appreciated, so we still have some summer left. This is Bonney Lake, Washington. Thank you!
Dear Donna,
From what you describe, two things come to mind. If you had a hot spell in Bonney Lake earlier in the summer, that can discourage female flower growth. Poor pollination by bees is also a common issue. Squash flowers will not bear fruit or bear only small fruit if not pollinated. To fruit, pollen from the male flowers must be transferred to the female flowers by bees—or by the gardener. Pollinate the female flowers manually with a cotton swab or add plants that attract bees near the squash. See our article on how to hand pollinate your squash blossoms for better yields.
—The Editors
I don't know why people say plant zucchini and other squash with large leaves in "full sun," unless they live on some chilly wasteland. Where I live full sun means a generally low humidity 90-110 F high temps and any broad leaved plant like zuccini or other squashes (or even spinach or beets or bok choi) will wilt and die in that condition no matter how much you water it. In general DO NOT plant broad leafed veggies in full sun. They are forest floor plants, they have broad big green leaves to make use of limited sun light. If you've ever toured where professional produce growers grow broad leaved veggies, they tend to have partial shade covers over their grow plots. Best place to grow Zuccini is where it gets morning sun then shade by noon.
Zuchinno rampicante is a very long light green squash with a sweet flavor. A great climber. Zapallito de tronco is a south american green summer squash with pale yellow flesh. very easy to grow. 4 to 6 inch wide flattened globes.
I have planted several bush-type zucchinis in balcony containers. They are producing lots of fruit, but the fruit are small and shrivelled at the blossom ends. I plan to add more soil including manure and peat moss, and move them to a brighter part of the balcony, hoping that more nutrition and sun will help. Perhaps uneven watering has been a problem. Any suggestions?
Hi Lois. Thanks for writing in!
There are a number of factors that can be affecting your plants’ growth. Growing zucchinis in containers can be tricky because they are more dependent on you for nutrients, especially calcium, which is needed for fruit production.
Small fruit can also be a sign of poor pollination, drought stress, or lack of sunlight. It is important to have pollinator attracting plants near your zucchinis for best pollination. Zucchinis need at least an inch of water each week and it is even more important to be mindful of watering practices when growing in containers. Zucchinis also need 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight each day. You can also certainly add some organic matter to the existing soil.
Blossom end rot is also a possibility, but in those cases the fruit typically shrivels and rots in a short amount of time. Hope this helps!
I needed to plant my zucchini in a planter. Any suggestions for a good outcome?
Zucchini isn’t normally planted in a container but you can do it if you buy the right seeds. Look for ‘compact’ or ‘container’ types. Plant 2 seeds in 14-inch pots or planters. Once they germinate, you’ll remove the weaker one. You’ll certainly need to look into watering and fertilizer if growing in a container since the plant will rely on you versus mother nature for food.
Yellow Summer Squash lightly steamed is par excellence with butter/lemon juice~
