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Planting and Growing Cannas (Canna Lilies)

Canna Tropicanna®: The original Tropicanna, Tropicanna Gold, and Tropicanna Black

Caption

Canna Tropicanna®: The original Tropicanna, Tropicanna Gold, and Tropicanna Black

Image Credit:
Anthony Tesselaar Plants
Botanical Name
Canna x generalis
Plant Type
Sun Exposure
Bloom Time
Flower Color
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener
Almanac Guide to Herbs

Looking to add bold, tropical flair to your garden? Canna lilies are your go-to showstoppers! With their vibrant blooms and towering leaves, these heat-loving beauties are surprisingly easy to grow, even if your garden isn’t in the tropics. Whether you’re planting in borders, containers, or around water features, cannas deliver drama all summer long. Learn how to plant and grow cannas—plus, get instructions for deadheading, cutting back, and overwintering.

Also known as Indian shot, canna is a sun-loving tropical or subtropical herbaceous perennial hardy in Zones 7-10. They’ll grow up to 8 feet tall in one season. 

Cannas can be both focal points and stylish accents. Use them to bring structure as a tall border or to add depth to narrow spaces. They add a colorful splash to garden orders and poolside plantings, bring a tropical touch to water features, and thrive in boggy areas (NOT salt water). Mix cannas with grasses, lantana, zinnias, snapdragons, elephant ears, salvia, periwinkles, and more. 

Note: Canna plants can be left outside in the ground all winter in Zones 7 to 10. They will also grow equally well in large containers dragged inside during the dormant period. In colder climates, cannas are easy to lift and store during cooler months. (Learn more below.)

Planting

When to Plant Cannas

  • Cannas can not tolerate cold temperatures. The soil must be 60ºF or warmer before planting rhizomes—often the time when folks put tomatoes in the ground. See our Planting Calendar for tomato-planting dates. Dig a small hole 2 inches deep and insert a thermometer to determine soil temps.
  • In cold, short-season areas, start canna rhizomes in pots indoors or in a greenhouse, ready to transplant outdoors at the right time.

Where to Plant Cannas

Cannas need full sun for good flowering and consistently moist soil with a pH of around 6.0–6.5. Add lime before planting if your garden soil is acidic (low pH). Position plants away from strong wind; their large, soft leaves are vulnerable to damage.

How to Plant Cannas

  • Space rhizomes 1-1/2 to 2 feet apart to give cannas enough room. Containers need to be at least 18 inches in diameter (per rhizome).
  • Before planting, loosen the soil to a depth of 1 foot, then mix in 2 to 4 inches of compost.
  • Dig a hole 2 inches deep and set the rhizome 1 to 2 inches below the soil with the “eyes” (bumps or nodes, which are growth sprouts) pointed up.
  • Cover with 1 to 2 inches of soil. Tamp firmly.
  • Water thoroughly, then withhold water for as long as three weeks and watch for signs of growth. Cannas are slow to sprout. Once sprouted, water at least once a week by slowly soaking the area around the roots.
  • Full foliage color develops when days are warmer (59ºF or more). Blooms should appear in 10 to 12 weeks.
  • Cannas should not need to be staked, as they have strong, upright stems.
Canna rhizomes with roots, closeup
Photo: izzzy71

Growing

Watering

Cannas need wet soil. If the soil doesn’t remain moist, provide a good soaking once a week and every other day during the hottest weeks of summer—water freely in dry spells. Maintain a thin layer of mulch to help retain moisture.

Fertilizing

Where the soil is fertile, fertilizer is optional. However, cannas are big eaters and would benefit from slow-release fertilizer at planting and twice during the growing season. Fish emulsion fertilizer, which is a little higher in nitrogen, is a beneficial organic alternative. Higher nitrogen fertilizers tend to increase canna height. Rose or tomato food products are also suitable.

Canna 'Tropicanna' by Anthony Tesselaar Plants
Canna ‘Tropicanna’® ‘Autumn Joy’ makes for a stunning display in late summer.
Photo Courtesy of Anthony Tesselaar Plants

Deadheading Cannas

  • To promote blooming, check your canna every few days to deadhead (i.e., remove spent flowers).
  • When deadheading, use small garden pruners or scissors. Do not pinch with your fingers.
  • Canna stems grow several flowers on a single stem. Snip off only the spent flower where it joins the main stem, leaving the other spikes to continue to bloom.
  • Once all the flowers on a single canna spike have bloomed, you may cut that part of the stem back, but avoid cutting off any new budding spikes.

Cutting Back and Pruning Cannas

After the entire plant has been deadheaded several times and with flowers no longer forthcoming, cut the flower stem back to the foliage. 

Only at the end of the growing season should you cut the plant—down to around 6 inches off the ground. 

If the plant looks “trashy” or the leaves get sunburnt, however, you can simply trim off the brown edges (like a haircut) or trim off any dead leaves at the bottom near the stem. 

Be careful not to nick the main stem. If the stem is damaged, cut it back to the ground.

You may see seed pods on your canna! These seed pods will make more cannas, so you can clip them off and put them right in the soil of your cannas; it may take a few years to get going, but you’ll have more cannas in the future.

How to Store Cannas for Winter

In Zones 7/8 and warmer, cannas can be left in the ground year-round. After frost kills the foliage, cut in-ground plants back to 4 inches. Add a healthy layer of straw or leaf mulch in the fall to protect rhizomes from the cold as the plants overwinter in place. (Note: Zone 7 doesn’t always experience canna-killing winter temperatures, so it’s a judgment call.) 

Bring cannas grown in pots indoors into a garage or basement for winter. Keep them dry (do not water) until spring’s nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50°F, typically after the tulips have bloomed in northern areas. Only then move them outside for the summer.

In Zone 6 or colder, it is necessary to dig up (lift) in-ground cannas in the fall and bring them inside for the winter. After cutting the canna back (as above), dig out the rhizome with a shovel. Avoid damaging the rhizome by digging about 1 foot away from the stem. With your hands, gently loosen the soil and lift out the clump. Shake off the soil and cut off any foliage. Divide clumps into 3 to 5 rhizomes, each with eyes.

Cure the rhizomes in the sun or in a garage or closet for a few days to toughen them up and help them resist rot. Wrap each rhizome in a newspaper or a paper bag, along with a small amount of dry growing medium, such as peat moss, to absorb moisture and prevent rot. Rhizomes should not touch each other.

Store cannas over the winter in a dry place where the temperature will not drop below 40ºF. Often, this is a basement, attic, or garage. Check the rhizomes a couple of times over the winter to make sure that they don’t dry out. Mist with a bit of water, as needed. If you find rot, trip it away or discard the entire rhizome. 

When spring’s nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50°F, replant outdoors. Make sure each divided piece has at least one eye; from it, new leaves will grow. Blooms should appear in 10 to 12 weeks.

Harvesting

To create an indoor arrangement with a tropical feel, cut the canna flower stems. Although the flowers themselves only last a day or two, their foliage makes for a stunning backdrop in many bouquets.

Pests and Problems

Canna Lily Problems

Canna lilies are generally easy to grow and are rarely affected by serious issues. However, growing conditions can still impact plant health and performance.

If cannas are kept too wet or planted too closely together, they may develop weak growth and reduced flowering. Overcrowding can also limit airflow, which increases the risk of disease.

Poor drainage is another common issue. Cannas prefer consistently moist soil but will struggle if roots sit in standing water for long periods.

Canna Lily Pests

Cannas are not heavily attacked by insects, but a few pests may occasionally cause damage.

Slugs and snails can chew holes in leaves, especially in damp conditions.

Spider mites may appear during hot, dry weather, causing speckled or faded foliage.

Caterpillars can feed on leaves and create noticeable holes, though damage is usually limited unless populations are high.

Canna Lily Diseases

Canna lilies are relatively disease-resistant, but problems can occur in overly wet or crowded conditions.

Rust is a common fungal disease that creates orange or brown spots on leaves.

Fungal leaf spot may cause dark lesions that spread across foliage. Botrytis blight can develop in cool, wet environments and causes gray mold on leaves or flowers. Bacterial bud rot may occur when moisture collects in tightly packed buds, leading to decay before flowers open.

Most diseases can be prevented by ensuring good spacing, proper drainage, and avoiding overhead watering.

Wit and Wisdom

  • Cannas (Canna indica) are unrelated to true lilies, even though they’re commonly called canna lilies. This flowering perennial plant is related to bananas and ginger! This may not be surprising when you consider their huge paddle-shaped leaves in those gorgeous red, orange, and bronze colors. 
  • Cannas’ bright flowers may attract hummingbirds.
  • The name canna comes from the Greek word kanna, meaning reed or reed-like plant.
  • During the Victorian era, gardeners so loved cannas that they grew them from seed, but this isn’t easy. The germination rate is low, and the seeds need to be filed or given an acid bath to break down their hard coat.
  • Canna seeds, being perfectly round and hard like BB pellets, have been used in jewelry, prayer beads, and baby rattles.
  • Canna has been cultivated as a food crop in Central and South America for thousands of years. The rhizomes are edible; the foliage is used as animal fodder when feed is scarce.

About The Author
Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann is the Executive Digital Editor of Almanac.com, the website companion of The Old Farmer's Almanac. She covers gardening, plants, pest control, soil composition, seasonal and moon c...