Rose Rosette Disease (RRD) is caused by the rose rosette virus (RRV), which attacks only roses. It is transmitted by grafting (not via sap) or by microscopic eriophyid mites, especially Phyllocoptes fructiphilus. The mites do not crawl far, but can be blown to other roses or carried on tools, clothing, or other materials. They tend to gather near buds, flowers, base of shoots or leaf stems, and leaf scars, including over winter.
All cultivated roses are considered susceptible. Studies are being done to determine if there are resistant rose cultivars/species. At this time, there is no known cure.
Symptoms include witches’ brooms, thickened/elongated stems, many thorns, enlarged canes, distorted leaves or flowers, reddish leaves.
Symptoms may appear months after infection. The virus may survive in the roots (not the soil), and the mites may be on parts of the plant that do not currently show symptoms. Control ultimately is to remove a symptomatic rose, including the roots/rootball. Also keep up with deadheading spent blossoms, as mites tend to gather around there. Always be sure to clean up all plant debris and place in the trash (not compost pile). Avoid using leaf blowers around roses, as they can blow mites onto the plants. Prune symptomatic branches; if after pruning, new growth also shows signs of disease, it is best to remove the entire plant, including rootball. Also prune heavily in late winter/early spring, when the plant is dormant, and then apply dormant oil. Remove wild roses (such as Rosa multiflora) that are nearby, as they are a common host to the disease. A monthly treatment of horticultural oil (except in hot weather) can help. Avoid overcrowding planting sites; mixing roses with other plants can help minimize the spread of the disease. Make sure to keep plants healthy and unstressed, so that they can best fight the disease. If a rose is removed, wait at least 1 to 2 months before planting a new one in the same spot. Inspect plants often to check for symptoms.
Hi, Peggy,
Rose Rosette Disease (RRD) is caused by the rose rosette virus (RRV), which attacks only roses. It is transmitted by grafting (not via sap) or by microscopic eriophyid mites, especially Phyllocoptes fructiphilus. The mites do not crawl far, but can be blown to other roses or carried on tools, clothing, or other materials. They tend to gather near buds, flowers, base of shoots or leaf stems, and leaf scars, including over winter.
All cultivated roses are considered susceptible. Studies are being done to determine if there are resistant rose cultivars/species. At this time, there is no known cure.
Symptoms include witches’ brooms, thickened/elongated stems, many thorns, enlarged canes, distorted leaves or flowers, reddish leaves.
Symptoms may appear months after infection. The virus may survive in the roots (not the soil), and the mites may be on parts of the plant that do not currently show symptoms. Control ultimately is to remove a symptomatic rose, including the roots/rootball. Also keep up with deadheading spent blossoms, as mites tend to gather around there. Always be sure to clean up all plant debris and place in the trash (not compost pile). Avoid using leaf blowers around roses, as they can blow mites onto the plants. Prune symptomatic branches; if after pruning, new growth also shows signs of disease, it is best to remove the entire plant, including rootball. Also prune heavily in late winter/early spring, when the plant is dormant, and then apply dormant oil. Remove wild roses (such as Rosa multiflora) that are nearby, as they are a common host to the disease. A monthly treatment of horticultural oil (except in hot weather) can help. Avoid overcrowding planting sites; mixing roses with other plants can help minimize the spread of the disease. Make sure to keep plants healthy and unstressed, so that they can best fight the disease. If a rose is removed, wait at least 1 to 2 months before planting a new one in the same spot. Inspect plants often to check for symptoms.
Hope this helps!