Planting, Growing, and Caring for Calla Lilies
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Planting
Calla lilies will enjoy full sun or partial sun. Although the biggest and brightest blooms result from planting in full sun, in hotter areas, they may do better with some afternoon shade. They like moist soil well worked with organic matter and good drainage. Don’t be lulled by the fact they want moist soil. Soggy conditions can cause their rhizomes to rot.
If planting calla lilies as houseplants, give them a sunny spot. The southern-facing window that’s too much for your Philodendron will be just right for a pot of calla lilies.
When to Plant Calla Lilies
Calla lilies are summer-blooming bulbs so they are planted in the spring after all danger of frost has passed. Ideally, soil temperature should be 65 degrees or warmer. Cool temps will cause them to temporarily stop growing.
If you want to get a jump start on your calla lilies, they can be planted in pots a month or two before they go outside. Use a large enough pot so they won’t become rootbound, and don’t forget to harden them off.
How to Plant Calla Lilies
Calla lilies are rhizomes but don’t look like your typical long, fat rhizome root. They are basically round and look a bit like a lumpy, bumpy cookie that would fit in the palm of your hand. Check out this page from Clemson Cooperative Extension for more details on how to plant calla lilies.
- Work some compost into the soil, and loosen it to about the depth of your hand trowel.
- If planting in a container, ensure the drainage holes are not plugged or clogged.
- Plant the rhizomes, face up (the growing side) about 2-3 inches deep, and cover, firming the soil gently.
- Water in well.
- Water sparingly after the initial watering, whether in-ground or in containers, until a few leaves have sprouted. Once several leaves are present, water more frequently to moisten the soil. Watering too often before the plant is taking up water can cause root rot.
- Calla lilies grow quickly from their rhizomes and can be expected to pop up about 2 weeks after planting. They will bloom around 2-3 months later, depending on temperature and sunlight.
Growing
Calla lilies are long-blooming with attractive foliage. Follow these care tips for the best results.
- Drainage is important. Don’t be fooled by the fact that calla lilies like slightly moist soil and will grow in damp areas. If the soil is soggy, they will suffer.
- If you live in a climate where you must dig up your calla lilies, zone 7 or colder, plant them where they can enjoy full sunshine. In hotter areas, select a spot with afternoon shade. Calla lilies in containers can be moved around as needed.
- Calla lilies like evenly moist soil and don’t like to dry out. Mulch can help keep the soil moisture even, reduce watering needs, and keep weeds down. Apply mulch as needed to keep the area attractive and the soil from drying in the sun.
Overwintering
- If you garden in an area that experiences more than an occasional light frost (25 degrees will usually kill a calla lily), you’ll need to dig your calla lilies up and store them indoors for the winter.
- Before the first frost in fall, snip off all the leaves. Trim the stem to 1-2 inches above the ground.
- Gently dig around and lift the rhizome from the soil. Brush excess dirt off and bring inside, storing in a cool, warm place (60-70 degrees) for 3 days to cure.
- After curing, pack your calla rhizomes in a box or tub filled with slightly moist sawdust or pine shavings. It should be almost dry, but not quite. If you can easily tell the packing material is damp, let it dry a little before sealing the lid.
- Store the rhizomes in their box or tub in a cool, dark place, about 50 degrees. An unheated basement or your garage may work. Check them every few weeks to ensure they are not dehydrating (looking shriveled) or too damp and starting to rot.
Types
- ‘Purple Sensation’ is a gorgeous royal purple with a light gold spadix.
- ‘Black Star’ lives up to its name, with dark, almost black blooms and green foliage lightly speckled with cream colored spots.
- ‘Morning Sun’ looks like a beautiful sunrise, with orange centers changing to red near the edges.
- ‘Red Alert’ is firetruck red with light variegation on its leaves. This one won’t go unnoticed!
- Calla lilies are often sold in mixes, so pick a color palette that works with your existing beds or matches your patio furniture.
Gardening Products
Wit and Wisdom
- Calla lilies are often purchased as potted plants around Easter and thrown out after, but they can be kept. When it’s done blooming, place the calla lily in a dark, cool location without water for about 2 months. The plant will go dormant and lose its leaves.
- After this dormant period, bring it back into the light, and begin watering again, and it should sprout new leaves and bloom.
- Don’t confuse calla lilies with canna lilies. Cannas, Canna x generalis, are much larger, growing as tall as 5 feet high. Their blooms are also different, clustering near the top of long stalks.
- Calla lilies can be propagated by dividing the rhizomes.
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Hi Pauline,
Unfortunately, It sounds like your calla lily may have bacterial soft rot. It's caused by Erwinia carotovora, bacteria that also affects fruits and vegetables. It usually starts at the base of the plant or the corm, and progresses upward into the leaf and flower stalks and down into the roots. Is the corm (base) soft and brown? Leaves will usually rot off at the base, flowers turn brown, and the stalks fall over. It can spread rapidly in warm and moist conditions. The bacterium can survive in the soil for several years. You can try adding calcium and avoiding fertilizer to reduce the severity, if that's indeed what it is. Definitely discard any of the affected parts and avoid harvesting flowers when the foliage is wet. We hope this helps.
Hi Nancy, and thanks for your question!
The drops of moisture you are seeing on your calla lily are almost certainly the result of a process called guttation, whereby the plant disposes of excess water and nutrients. It is a natural process that does the plant no harm, though it may indicate that your lily is getting a bit more water than she'd prefer. Experiment with a reduced watering schedule and/or improved drainage, and you should be able to lessen the appearance of those drops.
All best,
Joe Bills
Associate Editor
OFA
It is natural for calla lily blooms to turn green (and eventually brown) at the end of the flowering cycle as they prepare to go dormant. But if the change is happening early- or mid-season, the most likely culprit is fertilizer. An excess of nitrogen in the soil can dull the vibrant colors and create a green hue. Our friends at the Iowa State Extension Service serve up some helpful calla lily advice: https://www.extension.iastate.edu/mills/files/documents/10.October%202021.pdf
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